Ford A/C :: Replaced Front Heater Core Now No Heat In Rear
Dec 19, 2010
2000 Expedition. Had ford mechanic replace front heater core due to not having heat in the front and back. wife brings it home I check all vents and notice there's good heat up front but not the back, then I switch the rear from panel to floor heat and hear a thumping sound (figure the blend door is doing it) still no heat in rear. returned to ford mechanic and they stated my blender door switch is not working properly, so they flushed out rear core and instead of fixing the blender door switch they kept it on floor position and charged me another bill. could it be possible that while replacing front core the gunk made it to the rear hoses and core, and clogged it up, and damaged the blender door switch somehow. prior to my heat issues I never had any problems with the rear blender door, just no heat due to front core needing replaced according to them "FORD".
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the only thing that is left to replace would be the radiator?my truck is a 1994 f150 and it is not overheating!i get lukewarm heat only on the highway,everywhere else it is cold air!!this new england weather is killing me
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I just finished the replacement of my injector cups and I replaced every hose on that engine and when i replaced the heater hoses I believe I hooked them up right but just want to make sure. Is there an IN and and OUT on the heater core or does it not matter???? Im only asking simply because my legs feel like their on fire. Im wondering if the hot coolant is flowing through with out demanding it. I havent drove the truck in a while so Im questioning everything.
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Ford dealership is having problems with heater core repair. 2002 Ford F150 Supercrew. Problem is antifreeze (or early on just smell) in the cabin. 4 heater core replacements in 2 years. A hose (?) replaced. Electrolysis kit replaced. 4th heater core replacment finished yesterday. I know that I need to let the dripped antifreeze work out of the system, but I am smelling mild antifreeze this AM. Usually gets worse over 2-3 days then I have to take it in. What might be being missed here?
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I replaced the heater core in my truck. Now it will not turn over. When the key is turned on all the lights in dash come on like normal but when I turn the key to start it I get nothing.
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I have a '03 f 150 screw 4x4 with 5.4. I had to replace the heater core in the truck and I could hear air going through before the replacement. Now I can still hear it, have tried to burp the system a few times, even jacked up drivers side front on an incline to get reservoir higher. Ended up replacing the hose with the flow restrictor and that worked or so it seemed. The noise is back and I am lost on what to do next. I tested the head gasket and that came back negative also. What to do next or possibly what the issue is?
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New, to me, 2002 F-150 that developed heater core leak. I tore down the dash and replaced the heater core and reassembled everything.
All is good except that now the air bag light on the instrument cluster stays on continuously. There is no blinking...just a solid light that stays on.
I must have missed a connection, though I'm at a loss because I thought I got everything. Is there an obvious (though not obvious to me) connector that I should be looking for?
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I cant find my original post but I am reporting back on a low heat output issue. Not the climate door. It was the heater core clogging up. Instead of replacing, this is what I did. Purchased a "drill pump" and some clear hose and some CLR. Cut both the heater hoses,taking consideration of where best to install "T" connectors.
While hoses disconnected,filled heater core with CLR(as much as I could get in it). Hooked clear hose,drill pump configuration,on to the heater hoses. Ran drill pump in both directions for several minutes and stopping and letting it sit for a few minutes.
About 1 hour all together. Pieces of debris came out of the heater core and I could see it through the clear hose. Flushed the heater core out. Installed "T" connectors and it is heating very well now.
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with a new heater core, new blower motor, and new resistor and no heat, what would be the problem? gonna check the thermostat tomorrow.
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I have a 2010 GMC 3500 Savanah van with 6.0 motor. No heat in van. Engine operating temp is normal. Heater hose into core is hot. Hose coming out is barely warm. I am of course hoping for another explanation other then blocked heater core. The truck only has 45k miles. I am ready to backflush , but wondering if there can be any other explanation. A/C works normal.
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replaced heater core because when pulling a trailer it would admit steam out the defrost vents and the smell of antifreeze, what it could be?
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I bought a 04 explorer with a bad thermostat which led to a bad head gasket, fixed that and managed to not have to buy the special tools or time it , but now that its running I don't have any heat. I have complete service records on this vehicle and there was never a complaint of the heater not working. The a/c works and the heat will adjust the a/c temp, but no heat. In trouble shooting it I found that I am not getting vacuum to call for the coolant to enter the heater core. When I apply suction to it, it will send the coolant. Even though I wasn't getting the clicking noise, I pulled the blend door actuator and it looks surprisingly good (not looking forward to putting it back in). Where to look next?
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My jeep heater continues to have sand like sediment cloging the heater core, even after many flushes and replacing the heater core and the radiator. the mechanic says this will probably continue unless I replace the engine.
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2005 Ford E Series heater core is "always on"?
That is, coolant always circulate through the core, there is no "valve" that turns it on or off.
The HOT / COLD dial opens and closes a door (vacuum operated) that allow air to enter the heater core area?
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Okay, the vehicle is a 1988 E250 ClubWagon 7.3 IDI diesel with front and rear AC/heat. I have 3 questions for you:
1. I found that the rear heater core is getting coolant flow constantly which is making my rear AC blow 75* air. These models don't have a blend door in the back, they appear to have a valve that is only allows coolant flow to the rear heater core when the heat is turned on. Problem is that I can't seem to find where this valve is located on the van or what it is called to locate it at a parts store. Where on my van this valve is located?
2. My rear blower only functions on High. I know there is a resistor set up in the rear that controls the blower speed. Before I just replace this, is there a way that I can test it?
3. Is it possible that the Resistor setup for the rear fan speed would also be causing the rear coolant flow valve to not work? I know it's a long shot, but does the valve signal flow through it when the AC is on to tell the coolant valve to shut?
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Plastic coupling between core and hose, is there a specialty to needed to remove from heater core?
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I have a leak where my heater core tube goes into the intake at the rear pass side of engine. I have read that this part is pressed in. I dont want to remove the intake since i just paid $400 to have a new gasket kit put on. My question is can I bypass this tube with a hose from the water pump like in this video?
FORD 4.6 , 5.4 , 6.8, HEATER HOSE UNDER INTAKE REPLACEMENT THE EASY WAY !!! - YouTube....
If I can do a rubber hose like in the video I was to make sure that the tube just goes through the intake and that it does not supple coolant into the intake??
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I bought my 2006 Prius a little over a year ago from a Toyota dealer in the area, and within the first month I had a strange occurrence. I got into my car, pressed the power button to start the car and everything on the dashboard lit up, the power button flashed amber, the clock's numbers were just barely visible, and the car wouldn't start. Frantic that no matter what I did (shut it off, took the keys out, and tried again several times with the same results), I called the dealer who sold me the car and just as he was about to send out a tow truck to get me, I tried it one last time and it started. I took it directly to the dealership, they inspected it, and came back with the response of 'there's nothing wrong with it, I don't know why it did that. If it happens again, come back again.' No charge and supposedly no problem, I let it go.
Well, exactly 1 year later (to the day) and suddenly it happens again. So I take it to the dealer again. They checked the battery in the back and now they're telling me it's a bad battery cell. They insist the two incidents are completely unrelated. I left to go to class that night and had no more issues that day. But now I have a car that's been getting harder and harder to start. The power button doesn't even light up green anymore. I've noticed that I have issues when I open my door and the alarm goes off like I've left the key in the ignition, but I haven't. I knew when I opened the door yesterday and the alarm sounded that I was going to have issues. Sure enough, the car wouldn't turn on, and after two tries, it became completely unresponsive.
Which battery has the bad cell? They tested in the back, where the hybrid battery is. Also, it seems like there's something more serious than just the battery, considering I've read the manual a zillion and one times since I first had issues in hopes of trying to figure out what's been going on. The power button, like I said, flashes amber when it turns on, then disappears once it's on, but there is no green light instead.
Also, I've been getting repeatedly worse and worse gas mileage since the fall, the last fill only lasting me 350 miles or so with an mpg average of 34.6. I know it's winter and that the Prius typically gets worse gas mileage in the winter due to the heater being on. But the funny thing is, I don't drive with the heater on, even through the winter. I only use the heater when I need to defrost a window or I have company in my car because I like the cold. However, I got stuck on the I-90 for about 9 hours in the beginning of December and I noticed then that the heaters for the feet was varying how much air was blowing out of them after a few hours, and ever since then it's had the same problem. I figured it might have been a need to change the cabin air filters, but now I'm wondering if it points to something else...
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I have a 2000 F-150 5.4L 4x4. I am currently deployed and my wife has the truck. Just yesterday she told me my heater core went out again the only way she knows this is its the 4th time in just over a year. What would cause a heater core to go out so many times in a short period? What should I have my wife do? I do not want to get rid of my truck and I wont be back for another few months.
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My commute into the office was more difficult than usual because of the fumes pouring out of the vents. I have a 1997 F-150 5.4 V8. should I remove both in and out hoses from the firewall and connect them with a plastic fitting not to risk breaking the aluminum fittings on the motor?(There is an advanced a mile away) OR is it possible for me to remove the in hose from the firewall and remove the out hose from the motor, and run the in hose directly into the motor. Are the fittings the same and can I do that with limited time and tools?
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Coworker's 2000 Focus's heater core started leaking on his 50m commute this morning. He is ready to donate the car at this point. Any stop leak product (i.e. Bars) that would stop the leak without clogging the cooling system.
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