Ford Aerostar :: 1992 - Transmission Goes Out Of Gear When Accelerate To Downshift In OD
Sep 4, 2014
I searched a lot but did not find these symptoms on my 1992 Aerostar 3.0 2WD with A4LD transmission.
In overdrive, accelerate to down shift, and the transmission goes out of gear. Engine revs as if it was taken out of gear. Manually shift to Drive, and it works fine.
Overdrive works fine if at speed, and works to shift up, but if going slow enough to drop to lower gear, transmission goes out of gear. Manually in drive, works fine.
I may have other symptoms, but this was on the way home from work, and I just parked it. I checked fluid level, and it was fine, still in the cross-hatch area of the stick, light colored oil, no smell.
I will replace the modulator and replace the filter, and see what that will do. If the overdrive works at overdrive speed, I do not see how that could be an overdrive housing failure that I have seen in many posts. I am aware of keeping track of the pin for the modulator.
I also have read that band adjustment is not a good idea. If they are worn that bad, they should be replaced. I don't think it is a band or clutch problem. I think it is a shift control problem. We will start with the modulator and filter and take it from there.
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I've got a 92 star with a 4.0 liter engine and I think a 4ald auto trans. When I 1st start the motor it takes 3-4 minuted before it will go into gear. after that it's fine. I've tightened the 2 bolts under the dash tightening up the shifter and my fluid level is fine.
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So my 92 4.0 automatic has always been kind of a slug since we've bought it with 101,000 miles on it. It's been tuned properly and fuel pump, filter, and regulator been replaced. It runs pretty good but when you're going highway speed or even like 45-50 and stomp the gas it doesn't feel as if it's downshifting. The transmission looks like it may have been replaced or maintained, it shifts good, pulls good. Fluid is clear and clean, no leaks, no burning. I see that it has a vacuum modulator valve but don't know where it hooks up to. I can barely see it behind my catalytic converter. It will have to be removed to change it for sure. But I'm trying to see where the vacuum line goes from that modulator valve. I see the valve but I didn't really notice a vacuum hose coming off of it but again my view was obstructed by the catalytic converter. Would it cause hesitation problems if it was bad or not even hooked up?
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I have a 92' Areostar XL 3.0 2WD. When I first start it and put it in drive it takes a few minutes before it kicks in. After a few minutes of driving it doesn't have a really bad problem (only a few times has it slipped in lower gears.) I was told it could be a clogged transmission filter, old transmission fluid that is glummed up, or pull belts need to be tightened. I have the van up on jacks now and was getting ready to change the filter and fluid but I decided to get some advise first before I screw things up or do any unnecessary work.
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My 93' Ranger XLT extra cab 2wd, 4.0 engine and A4LD auto tranny with 126,600 miles has a rough downshift into 2nd gear about 15 or 16 mph. Down shift to 1st is real smooth and upshifting thru the gears is smooth. I just put a new modulator valve on it and upshifts smooth out, they were getting to be hard shifts before changing that valve. I do not know if there is any adjustment that can be made to smooth out the rough downshift when slowing down to a stop for red light. The U-joins are in good shape and new carrier bearing assembly on driveshaft and no extra play in the rear end. A band adjustment maybe or just have to live with it.
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1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
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I am having an issue with my transmission. Mine will not accelerate when in reverse, at all. When I take off in overdrive, the car revs up really high until about 30mph and then finally shifts and seems to drive normal at about 45-65mph,after that the car revs really high up to about 70mph (then i slow down). No problems with gear 1 and 2.
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I have a problem with a bmw 1996 7 series transmission.When I start driving the car all gears shift fine, but when I come to a stop it won't downshift to first gear,i have to put the car in park and then in drive again and it run ok until I come to a stop again.
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It's a 1988 with a 3.0 engine and an automatic transmission. It doesn't want to shift. I can make it shift manually, but if I leave it in OD, it wants to stay in 1st gear . If you fiddle with the accelerator, you can get it to shift. Then it wants to stay in 2nd, and so on.
Like I said, if I use the gear selector to manually shift, it will go to all four gears just fine.
My thoughts are a vacuum leak (a big one) or a faulty vacuum modulator at the transmission. No, the vacuum line to it doesn't have tranny fluid in it, but I replaced it, and I wonder if it's bad. Yes, I made sure to put the little metal pin/link back in it.
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My 97 AWD Aerostar bumps in and out of gear on very hot days. I've had the transmission fluid and filter changed. That repair worked, but it still shifts hard when very hot. I tow a boat. I always push the shifter button in to deactivate the OD when towing. I talked to friends who recommended an auxiliary transmission cooler. I looked on the van where one might be installed. I have a factory transmission cooler (oem factory installed).
The cooler is in front of the radiator. I don't see any room to add an additional cooler. The van has 145,000 miles. The van runs and shifts fine most of the time. The problem has happened only on very hot days. What I can do to prevent transmission problems. I've read that the AWD 1997s use a five speed transmission. 1997 was the first and last year the five speed automatic was installed in the AWD Aerostar.
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I have a 1992 Ford Escort. It's a junker (literally - it has a recovered title, the car having been totaled at some time in the past), but it gets me around. Or, it did.
The battery went dead a while back, and I'd been using the wife's car. She had to be out of town, so I got a new battery. Car started right up, but I couldn't get the transmission out of Park. I think there are switches to make sure that the brake is on, etc., that have to be made before the car can be put into gear. Is there anything I can do? Where are these switches? Obviously, I can't drive the car to a shop, and I'd prefer not to have it towed unless there's no alternative.
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I have a 2001 Accent with a 1.6. This car is mostly driven by my daughter so I'm translating the symptoms as she has described them to me. The issue appears to be this - when driving at highway speeds the car will sometimes downshift from OD to 3rd gear and stay there. When the problem first started, she would pull off the highway, turn off the car and then restart it - this would appear to "fix" things temporarily, however, as time went on, it would work up to (and including) 3rd gear and not go into OD after a restart.
I've reviewed the various threads on this site describing the 4th gear problem prevalent in the Accent, but in each case that was posted, there was a check-engine-light or at least some diagnostic codes stored that one could refer to - I've scanned this car every time she's been home and there are no DTC's. Should I assume that this is the standard "4th gear" issue and take the pan off for investigation or could this be some other issue such as the speed sensor causing the transmission to limit itself to a max of 3rd gear?
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My mom just picked up a 2003 CLK 430. I drove it around for a bit and noticed that a few things didn't seem quite right
The transmission seems to start out in 2nd gear rather than first even when the transmission is not in "winter" mode. The transmission is also very hesitant to downshift, and often times will not downshift at all if the car is moving.
There's a noticeable amount of lag time between when you stand on the gas and when car actually starts accelerating.The engine doesn't seem to rev very quickly or freely, and there is some noticeable pinging when the engine is under load. Performance was very tepid for a 275 HP car.
The spark plugs and ignition wires were replaced last week. The car has 105k miles on it. I know the previous owner used regular unleaded, and the owners specifically states that 91 octane should be used and goes as far as to mention precautions that should be taken should regular unleaded. The car was filled up with 93 octane fuel earlier today.
Just 15 minutes ago, I took my stepdad out in the car to demonstrate my findings. On the first drive (about 5-10 minutes) the car acted like it did when I had driven it earlier in the day (not downshifting, hesitating, lack of power, etc.), and the check engine light came on. He wanted to drive the car to see for himself. So we pulled over, shut off the engine and switched seats. He got behind the wheel, started the car, the check engine light is still on. But the car ran perfectly. It was starting out from 1st gear and would downshift promptly when give full throttle. Performance was immensely improved. The check engine light is still on though. The car has a 1 year bumper to bumper warranty. So I guess they can bring it in to have it looked at.
I'm just sort of at a loss as to why the car performed so poorly when I drove it, and all of a sudden performed correctly, after the engine was restarted.
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I have a 2012 Cruze with a manual transmission. I have 43000 miles. When I down shift into 2nd gear I get a whining noise from under the car. I can shift it with no issues and no noise but when down shifting or turning in 2nd gear it whines.
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I have a 1987 e350 conversion. Recently the vehicle has been acting up. Once warmed up, the transmission does not drop back into low/1st gear when stopped at a light, when we go to accelerate the vehicle has no power as it tries to accelerate in drive. I have to manually shift into first which the transmission immediately kicks down. When it comes to transmissions I like to have some knowledge before bringing to a shop.
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I have a 1992 Aerostar with a 3.0L engine. For the past few weeks she intermittently didn't want to start but eventually always did. I replaced the fuel pump relay because she always have had problems with that. The relays are loose and get wet. Anyway, I thought i fixed it because I didn't have any problems for about 2 weeks. But one day didn't want to start again. She finally started and took her home.
Now, no matter what she wont start. I did some tests and there is gas been pumped but I don't have a spark. I put a new ignition coil and a new ignition module and still no spark. If im right, i only have 2 things left that could be the culprit, the profile ignition pickup, and/or the computer. Is there any other reason that could be the problem? I read online that in order to replace the PIP i have to take apart the distributor. Is this true?
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My 1992 AeroStar 3.0L 2WD keeps cutting out like it's not getting fuel BUT...only after around 55 mph and after it warms up.
I first thought it was the fuel pump so I changed it. I didn't get a whole sending unit along with pump, I just dropped the tank and changed the pump...that didn't do the trick. Then I checked the fuel filter along the bottom rail and it's very clear flowing. Then I thought it might be the fuel pressure regulator. Ok, how many of you have changed the fuel pressure regulator? Man it was tough! I had to grind down an allen wrench to get room to turn those three allen bolts AND I replaced it while I was stranded on the side of the road!
Well, replacing that regulator didn't work either. I don't know where to go from here. It totally cuts out at higher speeds when it's warmed up. Could it be the oxygen sensor? It can't be the plugs. I don't think it can be the sending unit in the tank even though I changed its pump. Is there another fuel filter somewhere? I'm moving to another town and I have to get the van there.
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Picked up another 92 extended! Seller's mechanic thought ECM died. When you connect the battery, the fuel pump runs, steady. 167K, same as my DD van! Plans are to pull the trans and swap tires first, and eventually pull the motor and freshen the seals and gaskets, and a timing chain. I would like to have it run first though. I'll take pics after it's hauled home.
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I was driving the other day (cold weather- approx 15 F), and my serpentine belt shredded. Managed to drive a mile or so to my driveway. The belt was shredded on the fan side (and had come completely off), but it wasn't torn in two. Got a new belt and installed it, but upon test-cranking, found that it was riding up one ridge on the crank. All the other ribbed pulleys were fine (PS, AC). The smooth pulleys had the belt move a little, however.
Thinking I didn't set it right, I reinstalled the belt on the crank and tried again. Same result (belt rides up one groove, towards the fan). I perused the archives, and one comment was that someone simply trimmed one groove off the belt and everything was happy. The belt found it's "groove", and didn't act up anymore. Doesn't fix the underlying problem, but
1) is this a good fix
2) any clue what is going on?
3) Do I need to get the crank fixed?
BTW, I am sure that I threaded the belt on correctly!
1992 Aerostar, 4.0L, AWD. AC+P/S....
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So long story short I have a 92 Aerostar AWD which I'm pretty sure had the transfer case recall done (97V204000 1992 FORD AEROSTAR Recalls) it has the aluminum driveshaft but a couple of years ago the transfer case cracked and I replaced it with a "New OEM" transfer case off eBay. Fast forward to the present and my van has a strong vibration at 60+ my transmission guy says it all looks good so the vibration has to be from one of the driveshafts. My thought is that I may have got a transfer case without the recall done on it and its warped my driveshaft. I don't really know thats possible or what I could do about it if that was the case.
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Finally got my title, plates, and inspection for my 92. Started driving it to work Monday, and things were going smoothly until this morning. I noticed this van had as much road noise from the back as my 95 did, I assumed it was the junkyard fresh Prime well tires. Well, the noise seemed especially loud today, and then it went quiet. I knew this wasn't a good thing! I turned onto the exit ramp, and instant smokescreen! I was planning on replacing the rear axle seals this weekend, but that apparently wasn't soon enough.
Let it cool for a bit, then limped over to the Lowe's parking lot. Conveniently, there's an Auto Zone there too! My wife picked me up, and I loaded the car with jack, stands, and tools, plus a quart of gear oil left over from when I changed a seat on the 95. Long story short, pulled the driver side axle, and the wheel bearing was completely disintegrated! Luckily, I was able to get my paycheck a day early, so I can pick up the new bearing in the morning, as well as 'rent' the bearing puller.
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