I was thinking the other day, wonder if a 66-77 bronco 9" axle would work, width wise, on an Aero? Obviously, you'd have to grind off all the mounting brackets and add the Aero ones. Mostly just building the "ultimate Aero" in my mind,
View 5 RepliesI have a 1992 Aerostar Sports edition. My clock spring went bad like 6 months ago. I couldn't find a replacement anywhere. Not even at the Ford. I went to different junkyards and couldn't find the same exact one. Since I wanted to change the steering wheel anyway, i got the steering wheel and the clock spring from a 1999 Ford Explorer Sport at the junkyard. The clock spring fits perfectly and so the steering wheel. My only problem is that clock spring harness is different. I have no problem with the steering wheel side since both the steering wheel and the clock spring came from the same car. But under the dash is a different story. I have the manual for my Aerostar with the wiring schematic for the speed control system (cruise control) and horn but i just can't find the one for the 1999 Explorer. I got one for a 1996 Explorer and have the same wire colors than the clock springs i got from the 1999 Explorer. But i want to make sure I got the right schematic to feel confident I'm doing the job right. I can also use another version for the 1992 Aerostar because mine is a little confusing.
My old clock spring had two harnesses. One for the airbag which I am not going to use (i don't like airbags) and a second one for the cruise control/horn. This harness had four wires. One thick black one that goes to the casing of the ignition switch, and three smaller wires (BK, LB/BK, and Y/LB). The clock spring from the 1999 Explorer has six wires on that harness. One thick black that goes to the ignition switch and five more smaller ones (BK, LB/BK, DG/O, Y/LG, and R/BK). Going by the two schematics i have them figured out (i think), but want to make sure.
Lets say I want to do rear axle swap, how I would go about this? Would I have to do anything to my tranny or transfer case? and all in all would it be worth it if I am looking for more speed out of my 460? the fastest I can go for an extended period of time is about 55 if i go above that for to longit wears on the gears and overheats the rear end. It has slow acceleration, and I am sure the low slow gears put out a lot of power, but they drink gas. And even though I am good at driving stick, its hard to take off because there's only about two inches of clutch travel that i have to take off, its not the clutch, its the gears.
View 1 RepliesI'd like to know if a 2nd row captains seat can be use as a replacement for the 1st row driver's. I'm referring to the seat section itself, not the entire frame. I found some excellent condition seats but they are from the 2nd row. My Aero is a '95 and I don't know(yet) which year van the seats came out of.
View 11 RepliesMy friend has a 97 Aerostar swb panel van. It's a 3.o with an automatic, with the code of death P1744. For the price of a rebuild, he would rather put a manual trans in it. What trans will fit, and what needs to be done as far as electronics goes?
View 8 RepliesI picked up an '01 F-350 standard cab and bed plow truck for parts and am preparing to swap the rear axle into my E99 F-250 SB unless someone gives me good reason to just swap the carrier. I want the LS differential. I will also do hutch/harpoon on the tank so I figure that bed removal will make both jobs easier. Once I have both beds off I can give things a visual and see what lines and cables need to be changed out as well. I believe that there is a difference in the passenger's side caliper but I am not 100% on that and I don't know what I will need to change if anything. I am hoping that my drive shaft will remain.
Thus far I have gotten to rotted bed off of the donor truck. The bolts would not come out and I had misplaced my cutoff wheel so out came the torch. In the process of blowing the heads off of the bolts I also blew some holes in the bed but didn't care, it's scrap. Fortunately I did not blow any molten steel onto the fuel tank. I was able to lift the bed far enough to reach the light plugs in the rear and disconnect them without damaging them. The large one that is still attached to the frame goes to the trailer lights and could have stayed connected. The two smaller ones with ends up feed the tail lights and license plate lights, they have to be disconnected.
The bed is shot so I just hooked chains into the rear pockets and drug it off with the front end loader. I did have to get off a couple of times and unsnag it from the frame. Oops, and to cut off the fuel tank fill and vent hoses.
The bolts are extremely rusty and wouldn't budge so I cut them off.
The organ recipient has a spray on bed liner that I had to cut through to get to the bed bolts, the heads look like new and the bolts look like they will all come out for me.
And this is what the nuts and clips look like that mount the bed to the frame.
Yep, there is plenty of rust.
Also, I found two safety cables wrapped around the bed frame and main frame mid bed that will need to be disconnected before bed removal. These are on the E99 SB only, not on the '01 standard bed.
Love my '11 f250 SD 4WD CC SB. 6.2 with 3.73 e-locker. I've got 5 Star tunes in it, and the truck is a joy to drive empty, and tows my current 7k camper fine, though on steep inclines I wish I had the 4:30 gears.
Well, we just bought a bigger trailer, dry weight is an addtl 2400+ at 9400, so I'll need to do something.
I don't want a different truck, don't want (another trouble-prone) diesel. I think with 4:30s and the tune, I should be fine towing that trailer (with gear and passengers, probably 11-11.5k loaded). Not doing mountains here, just Michigan hills.
What's the best way to "do" a gear swap? I know if I buy a set of gears and a shop screws Em up, it's gonna whine/hum and still cost 2k to do (truck is 4wd)
I'm up in the boonies and finding a shop to swap the gears will be a problem. Getting Em done right will be even MORE trouble.
Can I just find 4:30 axles ans have them swapped (anything in t-case or sensors need to be touched?). I don't care if I lose the e-locker, I never use it.
The van started going "clickity pop clickity pop" around corners the other day. I got under to inspect the CV boots and yep the drivers side outer CV boot is ripped all the way round, and the grease has been flung out of it all over the place.
I got a new axle assembly rather than rebuild mine. I am a little bit scared of this repair because it was what killed my audi 5000 turbo I had.
I am assuming i have to take the wheel, brakes, tie rod, off of the spindle. Then drop the lower arm, axle nut? Then the flange bolts on the inner portion of the shaft that mounts to the differential? I don't have the right chilton manual to look at!
On my audi, I never got the torque of the axle nut right and i kept ruining hub bearings. Those are a royal pain to change, and I don't want to do that on this van!
Putting in a locking axle to replace there non locking axle? Have a 2015 f350. And found a electric locking for a great price. Can this swap be done?
View 14 RepliesHave a 95 aero E4wd. Have replace driver side cv axle and drove about 8 miles then the outer joint broke. Had mech change cv axle and drove about 2 miles and the inside broke.. Same mech replace it and drove 3 mile and heard like rubber on metal like a flat tire. The cv axle did not break and won't turn when in gear. Back to shop with aero. Lifted on lift and jacked up front and rear. Turned the driver side and the passenger turned with it also it turned easy. Started it up and placed in gear, all were rotation except driver side , it was hung up. What should be fixed on diff?
View 14 RepliesI had a reputable repair shop briefly check out the cruise control on my Aerostar cargo van. They said it is not because of a vacuum leak. What is most likely the problem?
View 11 RepliesI need to do the doors on my work van..Is there a hinge pin kit that works?
View 4 RepliesI have yet another issue with my lovable Aerostar. This one I just noticed today. The heat doesnt work! Not that its very needed here in Florida, but its still an issue. I tried the heat function out multiple times today and even after driving for a good 20 minutes hot air does NOT come out! Only cool air comes out the vents. Well actually, for a few seconds when I turned the heat on it sort of felt "slightly warmish" but a few seconds later it was cool again. I don't know if this could be related but the temperature gauge is stuck at C (Cold) as its been since I purchased the van about a week ago.
I brought the van to my friend who's a mechanic and he looked under the hood and claims there is no thermostat, the previous owner must have removed it. I found this odd since the vehicle has yet to overheat and I know overheating is sure to happen when the thermostat is missing. Need to confirm if these signs are indeed because of either a broken or missing thermostat? If it is, I have yet another problem. I began looking on eBay for a new thermostat and there's all different kinds! Some say "190 degree" some say "180 degree" and some say other things. Here's a link to a "190 degree":
MOTORCRAFT RT-1152 Thermostat
If I do need a new thermostat, what kind do I need? Here's the exact van I have: 1989 Ford Aerostar XLT V6 with 4 speed auto transmission. Oh and just in case this has anything to do with it, the van has A/C but it's not currently working.
Okay, so all of a sudden my trailer tail/park lights don't work. Determined that relay wasn't working so replaced it. Wrong answer, still no lights. Further investigation revealed that relay ground was not grounded. Who would have thunk it? Anyway, the wiring diagram shows that the ground wire has a diode in it. Where it's located and where the ground, (orange) wire originates from?
View 3 RepliesI have a 93 Aerostar 4.0 and it is displaying the blinking airbag light (3-2) and the horn doesn't work and the cruise control failed. I believe it is the clockspring ...
QUESTION: Can the clockspring be repaired or must it be replaced. I do not have a schematic of the electrical components of the clockspring ...
I have been getting a code 18 which is a loss of tach signal. I have checked the distributor and the module and they are both good. Where do I start next?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1988 FORD BRONCO, full size, that has a peculiar problem. I tried starting the car and it turned over, but when I tried shutting it off it kept turning over. I had to disconnect the battery to stop it. I replaced the solenoid being careful to route the wiring connections the same way. I tried starting it and it shut off using the key switch the first time, but when I tried starting it again it wouldn't shut off so I had to disconnect the battery. What might be the problem? The ignition switch??
View 3 RepliesSo three weeks ago, yes 3 weeks, my loathed Bronco decided not to start. It has been sitting at my office parking lot since then. Every day at lunch and after work I spend some quality time with it, attempting to coax it back to life. Here is what I've done so far...Installed a new ignition coil (gets 12+ volts with key in 'run,' and ±10.5 v. when cranking), a new distributor, (with PIP) cap & rotor, new remote mounted ignition control module. All voltages and resistances throughout the ignition system are good according to the Hayes repair manual but there is no spark being sent to the distributor. I've also done an ECC self test and got no response at all. Does this mean the ECC/PCM is bad? My butt is in so much pain with me having to ride a bicycle everywhere. (Riding in the rain while carrying an umbrella is no fun!).If I don't figure this out soon I suppose I'll give the Vehicle Donation Program a call.
View 9 RepliesThe drive selector on my 2000 Ford Explorer Automatic 4.0L will not allow selection of low gear. The selections are shifted to the right so the last one, low gear will not select. When in park, P, it shows R. When in drive, D, it shows as 2 and when in 2 it shows as 1. Then it will not allow to shift in to 1.The settings are off by 1 knotch. what's up with that? It runs fine but cant get to low.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1988 full size Ford Bronco that when I start it the motor keeps turning over even when I turn the key off. I installed a new solenoid thinking that would do the trick and it worked correctly the first time, but the second time it kept turning over until I unhooked the battery. What is the problem? Is it the ignition key?
View 12 RepliesI bought a 96 Bronco 5 speed manual last year in pretty good shape.Everything works well, but the idle speed at coasting is hovering around 1500rpm until the vehicle slow down to 30mph at which point the rpm drop to about 700 (where it should be).It only happens while coasting.When truck is parked, the idle is fine and steady; I revved it up to 3000rpm for a while to see if I could replicate the behavior, but no, as soon as I release the accelerator, the rpm's drop nicely to 700.While driving though, if I switch to neutral, the rpm will go up for a second, and than sloooowly drop to around 1500 and stay there until I slow down to 30mph. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, wires, TPS, ICM, and MAF are new. Could it be ECM?
View 6 Replies