Ford Brakes/Suspension :: Squealing Noise When Applying Moderate Brake Pressure And Slowing Down
Oct 14, 2014
2005 F-250 6.0 4x4. After about 50,000 miles on my original brakes, they started to make a squealing noise when applying moderate brake pressure and slowing down around 30mph-0mph. It only happens after Ive driven the truck about 30 mins. It must be warmed up. After 100,000 I decided to change the brakes.....they had plenty of life left on them, but I changed them anyway. I put on new rotors and pads and calipers in the front because one was hanging.
After about 10,000 miles, the exact same squeal has returned. With the windows down, its loud enough to physically hurt your ears if you are next to a car and the sound can bounce back into the cab. It sounds terrible. I thought it was the front brakes, so I took them apart this weekend to put in some Disc Brake Quiet. They pads look great, plenty left, the rotors look great, no grooves. Everything is tight. I relubed pins and brackets and clips. Today...same squeal still. I am at a complete loss here. It is some sort of harmonic squeal and the only thing I can figure is that the rears are the culprit. I have a drivers rear caliper that will hang and stick if you drive it really hard, so I am considering replacing the rear calipers too and do the disc brake quiet treatment there as well. Im not confident this will solve the problem.
Like I said, its so loud you can't drive with the windows down. Its a piercing squeal. Is there anything else that I can check? I can't imagine others don't do this. Its so loud and pronounced that it must be some sort of design flaw or something.
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Me and a friend changed just the front brake pads on my hyundai sonata 2012 limited turbo (about 55$ ceramic Wagner thermo-quiets)about a week ago . This was the first ever brake job done for the car so I assumed the rotors were fine . We made sure it was greased up everywhere it was supposed to (Didn't replace or turn them) since then my front brakes have been squealing only when I lightly apply pressure on the brakes slowing down , and goes away completely when pressed down harder. I realized I should have probably changed or turned my rotors after I already drove with the new pads on the old rotors for about a week so it's probably too late now. I am just wondering whether this noise go away eventually (what I initially figured it would) from the pads perhaps wearing back into the old rotors ? Or am I better off not waiting for this because the noise won't to away and I should just change the pads again along with the rotors!?
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I had been hearing bang noise from my front suspension at certain times like when reversing car and applying brakes. It was happening since I bought my car and every time I have complained about it to local VW service guys, I was told by them that they cannot replicate the noise so there is nothing wrong. I even told them to have a look at front suspension bushings but again they said everything is fine.
Last week I went for 45.000KM Service and I complained about the same issue again and luckily this time service advisor heard the noise himself. Next day, they called me to inform that my front lower arm bushings needs to be replaced, front brake pads and discs, and front wheel bearings as well. In my response I told them that bushings were bad for long time and no one figured it out earlier and due to this my front brake discs had abnormal wear along with the wheel bearings.
I am still trying to relate that it is technically possible for brake discs at least to wear off earlier if the suspension bushings are bad as when you apply brakes, the brake discs are stressed heavily as the bushing are not absorbing any stress.
I would like to have thoughts on this matter. Just let me know if my understanding is correct or it does not makes any sense and technically would not be proved.
Just to let you know that it is 3.2 4motion model. My driving is average within 120 KM speed and never hit any potholes etc. Plus my brake pads indicator never went on.
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So I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. Recently I noticed an issue with the brakes. It is a rare occurrence that this issue happens. Maybe 1 out 6 times I slowly stop the brake pedal seems to put pressure back against me applying brake pressure and makes somewhat of a grinding noise and the brakes don't seem to grab as well. But a split second later the brakes return to normal and grab as expected. Could it possibly be air in the brake lines or something totally different?
- Front brakes are in excellent condition.
- Just replaced the driver side front abs sensor and put new rear brakes and rotors on.
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Just got the Tiguan SE- love it! We have had it for about 3 weeks. I noticed sometimes while applying the brakes, the RPM's will go up as I am slowing down. I know the car has to move between gears when slowing down or speeding up, but it almost as if it gets "stuck" in a gear when the car is slowing down. Any thoughts, input? We don't drive fast, we apply the brakes and gas slowly to ease the car in. This just seems odd as my past car (2005 Maza 3) did not do this. I am new the VW family so maybe I am just not used this.
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It's a 07 prius with 65k miles. I realized that it is making this squeaking noise while going over bumps "ONLY" when the brakes are applied.
I have 2 toyota dealerships checked. 1st dealer said no noise and 2nd dealer also said no noise... then, i requested to drive with the mechanic and he somehow heard the noise while I am in the car.
I posted a youtube video w/ iphone video if you feel like hearing the noise...
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I am getting a ticking sound when i am slowing down (applying my brakes) at say 35/30mph. The sound stops when I stop. This problem starts after my car warms up; doesn't do it when I first start up.
I've taken the car to 2 Hyundai dealerships and a certified mechanic and the problem continues. I first noticed this about a month ago.
So far no one seems to be able to find the problem. The mechanic did try by replacing the front brake pads. He said something about a "shims piece " and thought if we replace the front pads that would take care of the problem. The rear brakes or ok.
I'm still having the problem and I wonder if it's the rear brakes after all. I don't know what I can try now. Someone suggested going to Brake Check. I have about 1000 miles left on the original warranty.
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I am working on a e-150 van, 2005. the brake pedal fades to almost the floor with little pressure on it. I just replaced the master cylinder, bled the entire system, and it STILL fades to the floor. driving, or in park. engine running. 4 wheel disc, 4 wheel abs...
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2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
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So I have a 2003 Passat wagon. While driving down the road with no brake pressure applied the front right brake makes a squealing noise. As if the caliper doesn't release pressure....what should I do? Any hints?
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After replacing my brake pads and shoes I am hearing a squealing noise coming from the area near my brake pedal. This noise sometimes becomes high pitched if I depress the brake too hard. I am also losing a little bit of brake fluid if I depress the pedal hard several times. The brakes themselves function fine and have no problem stopping. When I bled the brakes today some of the fluid was black. I figured it might be air in the system but after bleeding them it is still happening. I also replaced the bleeder screws.
1997 Pontiac Sunfire 2.4L uses DOT 3 brake fluid.
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Initially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
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I'm trying to diagnose thoroughly my braking problems before I start throwing money and time at replacing good parts needlessly. My braking system is on a 1971 f-250 4x4 with a swapped in front and rear 1979 dana 60's. Disc front, drum rears. Brake lines are in excellent shape, with no visible leaks along lines or at fittings. The individual rubber flex hoses at each corners are also sound with no leaks or bulging. Rear cylinders and front brakes are also dry. Master cylinder reservoir leaks a little out the seal under the lid, no big deal I have just kept an eye on it. Topped up front bowl from half the other day. Front pads and rear shoes are fine upon inspection. Brakes are in excellent working order.....when they work!*
So here are the symptoms: When driving, if I step on the brakes, the truck coasts to a stop and pedal goes to floor. However if I pump the brakes 3-5 times, pressure builds up and truck stops great. Than after driving again for even a few seconds that pressure is lost. When truck is parked and off, if I pump the brakes, the system builds pressure and the pedal is firm, when I start it up, the pedal pushes to the floor, turn it off and pedal is firm again.
I mean, I can force it down but I refrain. Are my rear brakes adjusted you ask? That was my first thought since for the past month my pedal travel had been increasing. I adjusted them when I was done inspecting them. I put drums on first, than adjusted both left and right simultaneously(posi rear) until drums would not move, than backed them off a little till I could rotate them with pressure. I have yet to open the system up yet or bleed it. Air in the system seems to be the old go to, but I want to be sure that is the problem as these symptoms exist, before I risk potentially screwing something else up.
Even in my research I have gone down a hundred rabbit holes and found all kinds of people who have done the same. Could this be the master cylinder? Another popular culprit. Could it have an internal leak? I have eliminated the brake booster as the problem because it is dry and when I pull the vacuum hose the brake pedal gets hard. I have an aftermarket ssbc combination proportioning valve on the inside of my frame rail, Could the problem be here? Could the fact that it is extreme cold here lately affect that? Could water and road salt get in it and freeze. Last week I went through some ice into deep water, and the brake travel worsened a couple days after that.
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I just joined as I bought my '97 F-150 5.4 4X4 about 3 months ago. The dealer gave me a 6 month warranty but hasn't honored it at all and I've had one problem after another. That's another story though but right now I'm just trying to fix the important issues. The problem at hand are my brakes.
I was noticing a couple days ago (maybe I never noticed it that much as it was a new vehicle to me) that when I apply the brakes it sounds like a bicycle pump and the pedal travels nearly all the way down. It doesn't hit the firewall but I'd probably guess it has 3 more inches or less until it bottoms out. The hissing only occurs as the pedal travels and stops when the brake pedal isn't moving.
Now I'm not sure if the hissing sound is normal as I replaced the brake booster (from the junkyard though) and the new one still hisses when I apply brakes. The brakes seem to work okay, could be more sensitive it's just the pedal feels soft until it almost bottoms out like I stated before and the the brakes grab a little bit harder. What could it be?
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I have a 1994 F-250 4x4 w/manual transmission. I was driving a few days ago when the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor. I had almost no brakes (less than 10% at most), but luckily was able to get off the road safely. It was immediately apparent that the line connecting the T-fitting and the passenger side drum had broken.
I have never blown a brake line before, but I always assumed that you would have either front or rear brakes, depending on which line blew. Unfortunately I was wrong! The master cylinder reservoir was about 3/4 full when I initially checked it, but after I moved (slowly) the truck to a safer spot in the parking lot, I checked again and it was nearly empty.
Is my brake system behaving normally (no brakes front or rear, blown line completely empties the reservoir), or should there be some safety factor built in? If the system is operating correctly, is there any way to convert to a system that doesn't give out fully when a line is blown?
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I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
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Before I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7L. Recently the brake pedal would sometimes go to the floor when I'd apply the brakes. The car would still stop, but not as quickly as normally. If I apply the brake and it goes to the floor I would release the pedal and reapply the brake and it would stop at it's normal position and the brakes felt firm and the car would stop fine. I was told my problem was the master cylinder so I bought one on Sunday and replaced it. I bled the lines and it seemed like all the air was out. The brakes worked great and the pedal stopped in the same place and was firm.
Now today on my way to work the pedal went down a little farther than normal during one stop. On the way home it stopped in different places. The brakes would always grab and the pedal felt fairly firm wherever it stopped. I drove it this evening again and the pedal went to the floor like with the old master cylinder. One pump and they grabbed in the normal spot. What is going on? Did I not bleed the lines well enough? Is the new master cylinder just junk? I saw in the manual that air can get trapped in the ABS sensor, but an air bubble problem should just make the pedal squishy, not change where it grabs, right? I'm stumped and I really don't want to take my car in if I can fix it.
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2001 F150--V8-4.6-3.55--8.8. 221000 Miles. Changed front rotors and pads. Had scrubbing noise from right rear when applying breaks heavily. Changed rear rotors and pads. Still have scrubbing noise when breaking hard. I do not hear any noise when driving regular or when normal breaking. Differential fluid was a tad low. Applied fluid. Still have scrubbing noise. No leaks at hub seal or pinion. Bearings ? Maybe?
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2004 F250, I am getting this howling noise when applying the brakes. It sounds like it is from the left front and is more prevalent when applying the brakes down an incline (off ramp, etc) I pulled the wheels off and the pads were probably 50-60% worn. I bought some new pads and installed them and I still get the same noise. I didn't buy the cheap pads, nor the most expensive either. Either way, I can't figure it out. Would I need new rotors? I would think I would have some vibration if the rotors were warped. My other thought was the caliper, but when I replaced the pads it compressed fine and I lubed the slide rails. Not sure what to do at this point. The truck has 94,000 miles on it, FX4, Lariat, Crew Cab, and it has the 5.4L in it.
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A while back I posted a thread trying to fix a clicking noise coming from the front end on my F-350 dually when applying the brakes at slow speeds (under 15 mph).
While returning from our camping trip last week the noise is back again. It does not occur after the truck sits overnight or for a few hours. But after driving for 30 minutes or longer the clicking will return when I apply the brakes at slow speeds. I tested the rotor temps with a heat gun and it seems to start when the rotor temps get above 120 degrees F. So I removed the brake pads & calipers, regreased the slide pins, cleaned up the pads and applied some lubricant on the back of the pads. I also bent the pad clips so they would fit snugger/tighter in the slots.
Whatever I did seemed to cure the clicking while driving around this weekend. I made sure I got the front brakes nice and warm - up to 180 degrees or so.
When I did this same procedure a few months ago the clicking went away - but eventually returned.
Should I get some better clips? Replace the sliding pins? Pads? The rotors & pads were replaced this winter & the shop said they and the labor are still under warranty. But if they use the same clips - I'm concerned I'll be back to square one in a month or so.
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