Ford - Escape :: 2001 - Engine Misfires Under High Load And Low RPM
Nov 14, 2012
I have an 2001 Ford Escape V6 3.0, about 130,000 miles. When the engine gets under high load and low RPM, before downshifting, it will shudder (misfire?). Local shop couldn't reproduce it, but they thought it might have to do with slightly cracked vaccume hose, which they gouged me to replace. No improvement. Next they wanted $700 to replace Valve Cover Gaskets. I decided to become a mechanic and learn how to do that one myself. Sure enough, there was a little oil dripping onto one plug. I replaced the gaskets and all 6 spark plugs successfully. Still didn't fix the problem though.
Symptoms will occur reliably when driving at 45-50 MPH with the transmission in overdrive (1500 RPM), and I begin a slight incline. The vehicle will kind of chug forward (feels like sporatic misfires) in overdrive, getting down to 1200 RPM before deciding to downshift. Generally, I can just give a little more gas to force downshift and avoid the nasty-feeling misfires. Some days, however, it is much worse, and will misfire at idle, and make me feel like I have to treat the gas as an on/off switch to keep the engine from dying. (It has never actually died.)
During a really bad day, I got a flashing check engine light. I did not check codes in time - they've all cleared.
I now have an ODB2 reader logging real-time data. All I can do is prove the conditions that cause the symptom: high engine load at low RPM is the recipe. Nothing seems to show a cause... I may just not know what I'm looking at :-/ . I haven't monitored long enough to record a 'bad' day.
I've read about ignition coil issues on this engine, and weather might explain why this is worse some times than others. However, I wouldn't expect that to be load dependant.
Most of the time it feels like the transmission just isn't shifting when it's supposed to, but on the bad days it seems more than transmission related. When stopped at a light in Drive, this can still occur.
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I have a 2001 ford escape. Today it starts to miss and the engine lights starts flashing. It is never the same amount of flashes. Sometimes its 8 or 10 flashes. I counted up to 25 flashes one or twice It just shakes bad and that's when the flashing starts. When it starts to miss and vibrate, I can accelerate in passing gear and it smooths out. When you hold it at a constant speed it starts missing again. Cannot get a code with my reader. Someone told me a flashing light indicates a misfire. What may be causing this problem?
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1999 Suburban 5.7L Vortec
Symptoms: While driving after engine warm-up the engine misfires on cylinder 2 under slight load (basically whenever maintaining speed, and slight acceleration) between 1500-3000 rpm's. Backfires through exhaust when this is happening. Misfire counts on Cyl. 2 collect rapidly and only a few on Cyl. 1 but no P0301.
History: Purchased vehicle with a blown engine (intake gasket leaked coolant into engine and was hydro-locked) with the intention of using it to pull a boat or camper but never did buy either one. Replaced the engine with a new Goodwrench engine and rebuilt the tranny figuring I would drive it till the body rusted off of it. I honestly never felt that the truck ran as strong as it should have with a brand new engine but just attributed it to being as big as a cruise ship. A couple of years later started receiving multiple codes (don't remember what they were at this time) found the distributor very corroded inside due to the ear on the distributor being broken off.
Replaced the distributor, cap,rotor,plugs and wires and fixed it. About a year later, only in the summer I would start to receive the P0302 sometimes, would not happen in the winter. Did the usual plug swap, wire swap, checked spark to rule out ignition with no change. After a while the catalytic converter failed (big surprise with a missing engine) and replaced it as well as both O2 sensors on the rear bank and one on the front bank. P0302 did not change. Last year the fuel pump failed so I replaced it. This April I took the truck on a road trip to visit relatives, about 80 miles out it started backfiring through the exhaust whenever I got over 70 mph and the CEL would flash. Finished the trip babying it the whole way but now it does this all the time when warm.
Repair attempts:
* Distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs. (Due to distributor failure mentioned above.)
* Fuel pump and filter. (Due to pump failure mentioned above.)
* Upgraded fuel injection spider. (Because of GM bulletin regarding misfires and multiple failures found on the internet.)
* Repeated valve and fuel system cleanings. (Grasping at straws.)
* Removed rear bank cylinder head and sent to machine shop, All checked good. (After ruling out ignition and fuel figured it had to mechanical. Compression was good, cylinder leak down test was good. The problem seems to be temperature related so thought maybe the exhaust guide was mis-manufactured too tight causing it to drag when warmed up.)
* Crank sensor with a used one from a u-pull it place, I got too much money wrapped up in this. (Found a reference to this repairing a similar problem on another vehicle.)
One final note: After replacing the fuel injection spider the truck ran extremely well, this only lasted a few days and the problem came back. After replacing the crank sensor the truck again ran extremely well, but only for 1-2 days. What is the connection between the injection spider and the cranks sensor? The only other thing that I can think of that would create a misfire on one cylinder only is the PCM but that gets misdiagnosed so much that I don't want to jump to it unless all other options have been checked out.
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I have a 2005 F150 with 5.4 and have been having increasing random misfires. This is MUCH more pronounced when the engine is warm, and I can certainly count on it to happen when under load, either accelerating or whatever. If I am forced to remain stopped for any extended period of time, such as waiting in line at a drive through, then start to drive again, the problem seems to increase exponentially, and is most pronounced in the 1300 - 1900 RPM range. If I take the overdrive off in order to put the rev's above 2000, it eases the problem, but does not eliminate it. The issue is much LESS pronounced when first starting driving, it seems to be most prominent only after it warms up.
So far, the only codes I have ever seen is random misfires, and only once has the code gone solid in the ECM. Usually, if I back off load for a minute, it clears up on it's own and the flashing code light clears .... If I attempt to accelerate hard, even when cold, the misfires get really bad and I can always expect a hard code soon afterwards ...... needless to say, I have no real power at any time, and my fuel efficiency is beyond bad (best I can get is about 11 mpg) ....
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I've got a R32 with nearly 100K miles on it. Several days ago I was adjusting my shifter cables and am not sure if i accidentally leaned up against any sensors or their associated connectors that are in that vicinity. I took the car for a drive to feel how the shifter adjustment had turned out. I was building engine RPM from 2500-4000 RPM, I let off the acceleration pedal and felt a small and new kick as if something got loose, popped off, or backfired. Not sure what it was but my engine started to misfire in what seemed to be in several cylinders. It idles rough but the needle doesn't exceed 1000 RPM during idle. When driving calmly, there is sporadic misfire. If pushed hard to build RPM, it will misfire heavily.
I scanned the vehicle and got the following codes,
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
I've checked
- Every hose I can see and feel for Vacuum leaks
- Checked all my fuses
- Swapped coils from banks 1,3,5, with 2,4,6
- Disconnected, cleaned and reconnected camshaft hall sender sensors and tightened the bolts.
- Have erased the coded and the same codes are back.
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My girlfriend has a 2001 Ford Escape 3L, 6cyl. When accelerating there is a loud high pitch whistle/whirling sound. The sound varies with the amount of throttle you give it. More throttle = louder whine. Doesn't seem to do it when idling or coasting. What that could be? I'm about to remove the belt and take a look at the drive belt tensioner and other pulleys.
Just checked pulleys and tensioner and the tensioner seems fine, a/c pulley spins smooth and free no play, alternator spins smooth no play. The belt needs to be replaced. I wouldn't think this would cause such a load whistle under acceleration. I would expect it to do it all the time if it was the belt. I'm looking at the water pump pulley and belt too and they seem ok as well.
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I am trying to get this car of mine into tip top shape (2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE). Ive been experiencing this problem where the rpms will jump while the engine is under a high load. If i apply more throttle, the problem goes away.(as shown in the video)
In the youtube video below, I am going up a 5% grade. This will happen at slower speeds, but i will need a significantly steeper grade of around 25-30% ...
[URL] ....
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My hybrid has been a great car, owned 3 years. Now have problem: runs great but if going higher speed 65 and pulls hill needing to kick in to 4000rpms it dies right away says high temp engine but does not smell hot or need water. Let it sit for 15 minutes (even though will start right away but might keep dying unless sits). Will run fine unless hits higher rpms then dies again. 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid...
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I am having overheating problems at high speed/high rpm/under load. The only codes ive gotten are EGR dpfe (0401). Truck is 99 f250 with the 6.8 new egr valve, dpfe, new coolant, new thermo, new sensor under manifold. I blew 90 lbs air pressure thru the egr lines, big and small, they were clear.
So whats left? I never hear my fan clutch......should I? I've had other trucks and the fan roared when first started for a few seconds, and then again when you were hot...they really roared.
Is it possible for the egr port where it goes into the throttle body to be plugged? guess I should've checked that when I had the egr off. Would an aux. fan be a waste of time?
This is pulling a 3500 lb camper trailer up moderate hills.
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I have a '07 Sonata GLS with the 2.4-liter Theta engine and the 4-speed automatic. It has 52k miles on it and has always been serviced regularly. It's been a pretty decent car but is starting to feel a little tired, most notably the worn/bouncy suspension.
Anyway, the other day I was driving down the highway and gave it a little gas to pass a slower car. Doing 60 MPH it downshifted to 3rd (~2000 to ~3300 RPM) and I thought I heard a noise in the engine bay, but I wasn't sure. I ended up needing more power so put it to the floor and as it kicked down to 2nd at ~5000 RPM the rattly noise got a lot more pronounced. Driving around normally I don't hear it but any time I put it to the floor (merging/passing) I will hear the rattle. I can also hear it if I lock it in 2nd gear and give it full throttle up a hill at low speed, like you might do with a stick shift.
It seems like it only does it under load because if I rev it to ~4000 RPM in park in the driveway, there's no noise, even at full throttle. I know the V6s had tensioner issues but I haven't heard much about the 2.4s. I'm not super concerned as it is still under warranty but what might be wrong with it as this is my first Hyundai vehicle, especially in case the dealer can't replicate it.
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I have an 06 with 105000 miles. Since about 95000, I've been starting to get what sounds like a fuel knock with medium-high load on the engine. Thought it was carbon at first, but a few applications of Techron didn't clear it. Higher octane does seem to solve it.
Do the knock sensors go bad on a Prius? What's the proper way to diagnose the knock sensor on a Prius? (can't exactly bang on the block with a wrench at idle and listen for fuel adjustments on a car that doesn't idle).
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2002 Ford Escape. My car was sitting for a week in cold weather. I started it yesterday with no problem, but only waited for a minute or two before driving. I was driving at city speeds, and heard a knock. I was accelerating up a hill and it hesitated/ jerked once or twice. The check engine light came on, and now it knocks every few seconds when I am stopped at a light. It also doesn't seem to catch the highest gear (5?) when it shifts, making a constant knocking sound and vibrating. Letting go of the gas or accelerating so it shifts back down makes the noise go away. In other gears it seems fine, with an occasional jump... It is an Automatic V6. I am taking the car in Monday, but I would like to know possible causes.
This morning I let my car warm up for 40 minutes (15 minutes in park and 25 idling at the bus stop). The problem was no better. By knock I meant it feels like someone bumped the engine. My foot vibrates on the brake for a second. And when it changes into the highest gear, it shudders ( until I release or further press the gas pedal. The revs don't change while it is shuddering or knocking.
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What to look for. 2001 escape 3.0 starts and runs but it has a miss and no codes came up yet . the engine will rev up but it really takes time to idle down . don't matter if its cold or hot it just don't want to drop to idle as fast as it should.
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I have a 2001 Ford Escape, and since the colder weather set in it is tacking below 1 and 'jumping' when idle. When accelerating and/or once the heat gauge has reach midway, the car is fine. I added a bottle of gas additive to the tank 3 weeks back, but the problem persists. The engine light is on but no code is registering.
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Well, not an escape, it is a mazda tribute. but it is the same thing as an escape. My sister just called. as she is driving down the road, if she lets off the throttle the engine will randomly die. it did it 2 times sunday, once yesterday, and once today, as she was talking to me. It will not die at traffic lights, just as you let off the throttle sometimes. today it did it at 45 mph. When it dies she just pops it in neutral, restarts it, puts it back in drive, and it is fine. No check engine light after restarting. What I should look at when she brings it over this weekend?
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My daughter has a 2001 Ford Escape, V6, Automatic, 2WDR, 132,000 miles that is having starting problems. When you turn the key the engine will try to start. You have to push on the gas pedal to keep it running, it will not idle until it gets warmed up. If you try to drive it while cold, it has no power. Reading previous posts I have already replaced the spark plugs, intake gaskets, air filter, EGR, TPS, and fuel filter. Check for crack hoses / vacuum leaks. It is still not starting properly. No engine codes. New problem is oil light is flashing but the engine has oil. All of the gauges, lights, functioning normally. What do I try next?
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2001 escape 3.0 engine is giving me a headache. It starts and will idle no problem but as soon as I step on the gas the engine sputters and coughs but it does race up. I put in new intake seals, new sparks plugs and a tps and cleaned the maf sensor. It shows no codes so what am I missing? Can it be a fuel system problem ?? what should I be looking for??
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I'm needing cold engine misfire. 2001 escape 3.0 engine 190300 miles on it. I changed the plugs, cleaned the fuel injectors, new air filter, new fuel filter, cleaned the pcv valve and new ideal control valve. When the engine is cold it starts right up but wont idle right and misfires sputters some to but run the rpm's up and it smooths out. drop to idle and it misses. Now when the engine gets to operating temp it seems to run fine. What am I overlooking to find the problem?
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Those are the codes I'm getting. P0340, P1166 and P1167
Here's the story. Engine running flat under load. Easy acceleration is ok, but merging onto the turnpike causes a noticeable loss of power. Replaced the cam sensor, cleared the codes, ran ok for a day. Same codes came back, same flat performance.
Returned the cam sensor with another new one to make sure it wasn't a dud out of the box. Advance Auto Parts is awesome - replaced it no questions asked.
Installed the new cam sensor, cleared the codes. Ran great for a day, then the same symptoms came back, with the same codes. I'm thinking it might be the ECU? If it is, how expensive are they? And do they have to be programmed by the dealer?
This is a 2002 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic with around 147k miles on it.
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My GF recently picked up a 1.8t (AWW) and we scanned it with vag com before she bought. We knew it had some misfires and a few other small problems so when it ran at higher RPMs we didn't think anything of it.
Fast forward to now after replacing some parts (hoses, coil packs etc...) and still the RPMs seem a little high compared to my mk4 vr6. On the streets in 4th gear, my car stays around 2200 and on the hwy its probably around 3300 in 5th gear at 75mph.
On the streets, her 1.8t seems normal but on the hwy in 5th gear, she's at nearly 4k. So my question... Do 1.8ts run at higher rpms under normal driving?
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For the techs in here, I have a data logger (AutoTap) and the symptoms are low idle and sometimes it runs rough idling and driving. It had me thinking the fuel pump was going out. That is not the case. I did get into part swapping mode so I have new plugs and coils and new VCTs all in the last 24 hours. The engine has 85K miles on it (rebuilt ford long block), truck had 150K. I'm not sure what parts were replaced when the longblock was replaced but I'm guessing the 02's are original.
Data that looks odd to me in the Autotap real time data logging is this:
- STFT Bank 2, goes from 10-15% and climbs till its over 300% and then the truck goes into Open Loop due to an error (per the Autotap) but it never says what error and the CEL never lights. Idle goes up when its in open loop and then after a minute or two it will drop back into closed loop.
- Fuel pressure never drops below 37
- Idle will drop to 250rpm
- Engine load at idle is 25%?! With AC on and idling (at 550rpm) engine load is 42%? Seems high no?
Nothing else other than the STFT Bank 2 and the high engine load seems out of miss. No misfires, codes, etc. What else should I look at?
Other background/patient history:
- Alternator #3 was installed 2 weeks, It replaced alternator #2 that went in 4 months ago to replace the original alternator (144K miles). Both died and caused low voltage/battery dying symptoms and verified by volt meter.
- FPDM was replaced proactively 8 months ago just because I don't want it to break down when I'm towing my race car.
- I have not tried cleaning MAF, EGR?, IAC, nor have I replaced O2s. The only thing that leads me to believe MAF might need cleaning is the load?
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