Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Misfires At High Acceleration
Dec 20, 2014
My GF recently picked up a 1.8t (AWW) and we scanned it with vag com before she bought. We knew it had some misfires and a few other small problems so when it ran at higher RPMs we didn't think anything of it.
Fast forward to now after replacing some parts (hoses, coil packs etc...) and still the RPMs seem a little high compared to my mk4 vr6. On the streets in 4th gear, my car stays around 2200 and on the hwy its probably around 3300 in 5th gear at 75mph.
On the streets, her 1.8t seems normal but on the hwy in 5th gear, she's at nearly 4k. So my question... Do 1.8ts run at higher rpms under normal driving?
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2005 gti 1.8t having really rough idle and misfires at idle fine while driving pulling codes:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0304
Unplugged MAF and didn't make a difference...
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It all started a few months ago.... I started my car, and it started noticeably misfiring, CEL flashing and everything. I scanned it with my vagcom and it came up Cylinder 1 Misfire and Random Multiple misfire. I popped the hood, made sure everything was seated correctly, and shrugged.
Ordered some new wires for it, since it had 80k miles on it with original wires, I figured why not. The misfire didn't come back.
A few weeks later, same thing happened. Misfires, flashing CEL, same codes. I ended up driving it the 5 minutes to work anyways and figured I'd look at it later after I got off.
8 hours later I started it up again, ran like a champ, no CEL on. The problem didn't come up again for 3-4 weeks.
So now, without fail, every month or so, I'll get the same issue. It doesn't matter if it's raining or sunny or cold or warm. But if I let it sit for a few hours, it'll act like it never happened.
Now, I haven't replaced the coil pack yet, simply because it doesn't sound like a coil problem, but I might do it just for the hell of it. New plugs and wires have already been done.
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So I bought a used 1.8t back in august. My second golf, up from an mkiii and I love it. However, the previous owner installed a CAI and being that he lives in the desert, probably never had any issues taking on water. Fast forward to my problem, got caught in a rainstorm, limped it home with the CEL and the traction lights on. it died like three times trying to get it home, but it still would idle when I parked it.
Now I've used the search feature extensively on this problem, and what I've down so far is to take off the intake and reroute it about six or seven inches from the maf, I've cleaned the filter, maf, pancake pipe, and SMIC with denatured alcohol and those are all currently drying. When I took the IC off, specifically the connection between the pancake and the IC, a good three cups (~30oz/850sillyliters) of water dumped out.
Again, my car still was idling when I parked it. Scanned the CEL and got misfires and maf low air codes. Before I started tearing down the intake I took the coils and plugs out and put my shop lights above the valve cover to generate a little heat, maybe make a lil water evap from the cylinders. I live in a pretty arid climate, IE all the water that fell onto my garage floor was gone in 24 hours. Prolly wishful thinking but whatever.
My plan next is to put everything back together when it's all dry, pour a lil oil down into the cylinders, and crank it while the spark plugs are out. Hopefully any residual water will shoot out, along with the oil/gas, and I can go back to enjoying my life.
Also, the intake is hot. I'm thinking any water that made it past the intercooler would've been steam/vapor and I shouldn't need to remove that? Also it seems like it's in a conformation that would force any residual water to drain either into the cylinders or back into the intercooler, so I really don't see any gains by removing and cleaning it
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I have an 03 vr6. I'm getting codes p0300, 0303, and 0304. I changed the plugs and the coils and still has changed nothing. In the morning when I first go to start the car it has a rough start and idles rough. But after letting it warm up it is fine. It drives perfectly fine, no misfires. None of this started happening until the car ran hot a few weeks ago. Did a compression test and everything came up fine. So would could my issue be? I'm at a loss here. I was thinking fuel issue but if it was a fuel issue, wouldn't it run rough all the time?
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2000 Jetta MKIV ... 2.0L GL
I've been dealing with random misfire codes on my Jetta (P0300, P0301-P0304). I've since replaced the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, MAF senor, & camshaft positioning sensor but the problem still persists. The misfires occur right on start-up and don't stop which is leading me to the coil pack being bad.
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I replaced the coilpack from the dealer last Summer. It got better as it wouldn't even start for a while after it finished raining. However it has still been finicky even after replacing it. Which brings me to the realization that water runs down the fender panel and ends up on the ground cable located under and to the right of the battery. Am I correct that this would cause the same symptom as a bad coil pack? It seems simple...move the cable right? However should water be doing that? Cause this little sucker is not stopping anything. Just need validation I guess...get new hood insert?
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My brothers car is a 2000 VW Golf 2.0 that recently started starting rough in the morning, when the motor is cold it will struggle to even turn on and will act like its only running on like 2 or 3 cylinders for a second and most cases stall, he is having to pump the throttle to get it to even stay cranked until it all sudden just starts idling fine and it idles perfect but still acts boggy if you try to rev it right away as its warming up, after about 10 seconds of it idling the motor can be revved perfectly fine and you can turn the car off and it will start back up immediately..
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just picked up this 99 Jetta with about 150,000 miles and while driving all of a sudden i had extreme power loss, shaking and shuddering, and the engine light came on. My code reader found multiple random misfires cylinder 1 and 4 codes P0300, P0301, and P0304.
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So I picked up this 24v vr6 in florida and it has the folowing codes:
p2181 malfunction in cooling system
p0303 misfire in cylinder 3
p0305 misfire in cylinder 5
p0300 random multiple misfires detected
p1570 engine control module disabled
I am thinking the ecu is fried? otherwise why else would that last code pop up. misfire codes im assuming are related to the ecu because theres new COP on each cylinder, newer starter, newer alternator, new spark plugs. Cooling system malfunction im thinking could be the ECT sensor, apparently the water pump was replaced a little while back.
If the ecu is fried can I buy a new one chipped from like APR or do they need the existing ecu and then they modify it?
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I have a mk4 1.8t Gti. Recently I have been having issues with idle and boost. I read the codes and multiple random misfires in all 4 cylinders came up, idle control and the crank, knock, and o2 sensor came up. Shows that system is running to lean as well. I changed the spark plugs and wires, check the coil packs they where done about 1k miles so I expect them to be perfectly fine. When I clear the codes it idles below 9-8k rpms. I also noticed the breather hose coming out of the valve cover into the EGT has a hole melted into it, could this cause any of my issues?
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2003 Jetta 1.8T. My car has an issue when you're driving and want to take off. I try to step on it and the car gets stuck. There isn't a CEL and one doesn't flash while it happens. The turbo attempts to spool and then gets stuck almost like sputtering and then misfires. "Sputtering" can last anywhere from a second to until you let off the gas. If you slowly climb through the revs it doesn't do it but if you punch it you're guaranteed to get stuck. I don't have a boost gauge to see if it's spiking but I'm running out of money, time, and options. I've had my car at my normal shop and they can't figure it out and the dealer techs are stumped too. Oil was changed last month and I did a seafoam treatment before I changed the oil.
Mods:
- CAI
- Unitronic Stage 2
- 225 TT DV
- Techtonics 2.5" DP with high flow cat followed by 2.5" straight pipe
- ST Coilovers Maxed out
- Corvette Sawblades 17x9.5 square with 38mm and 33mm adapters. Front and rear tires are different tread, and size. Fronts are all season 205/40/17 and rears are a summer 215/45/17
- Fresh wheel bearings and custom Porsche 930 Chromoly axles
Things that we've tried:
- New MAF
- Flashing back to stock and reinstalling the file as welling as trying lesser flashes (stage 1, 1+)
- New plugs
- New coil packs
- New throttle body
- Boost leak test (no leaks)
- Front o2 sensor
- New crank position sensor
- Throttle body position sensor
- New N75 valve
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2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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I just recently lowered my mk6 with h&r springs(1.2 front and rear) and installed wheels and tires from tire rack. I am noticing a lot of vibration at the wheel, pedals and seats while accelerating or moving at higher speeds. I had an alignment done after the springs were installed and all 4 tires/wheels have been road force balanced. One of the tires rated at 20lbs which apparently is acceptable but Tire rack sent me a new tire anyway, which I just had put on today.
Still the same vibration is there. Next step tire rack wants to do is switch out all 4 of my Michelin for a different tire. The guys at tires plus feel that there is no issue with the tires and I think I agree. Could the lowering springs be the problem?
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I am trying to track down a problem for a friend with a 2001 Passat, 1.8L. The car has 150k and had a timing belt about 50k ago. About 3 weeks ago, it started misfiring badly on idle. In gear driving around, it purrs like a kitten. I scanned for codes and got:
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 4B0 906 018 CL
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 16551
9 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
At first I thought it might be a vacuum leak, but it looks like when he took it in 2 weeks ago they replaced all the vacuum hoses. It is unclear when he last had sparks and coils. I understand the likely culprits are:
sparks
coils
ICM
I am hesitant to blame sparks/coils if he is getting misfires on all 4 cyl. It seems like they might have screwed up the timing belt install given the camshaft sensor error, but he's been running for 50k miles since the change, and this idle issue just appeared recently.
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It's a 2004 V8 Touareg with 100k miles.
Getting horrible misfires and they're jumping around to different cylinders + other intermittent codes. The symptoms are ROUGH idle, and hesitating/shaking under acceleration.
The MIL has never come on in this car. But, it illuminates when you turn the key forward. (Almost like previous owner coded the light out?)
Replaced all 8 spark plugs, just ordered 8 new ignition coils. Hoping the misfires are the coil packs but obviously theres some other stuff going on here.
Pulled codes 2 weeks ago:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
3) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )
4) warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 2 (P0431)
5) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 1 (P0491)
6) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 2 (P0492)
7) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)
Pulled codes 1 week ago:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)
3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)
4) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)
Pulled codes tonight:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)
3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)
4) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
Cleared codes. Swapped ignition coils from 2 & 3 with 7 & 8. Drove around the block, then re-ran them:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
3) misfire cylinder 5 (P0305)
4) misfire cylinder 6 (P0206)
5) misfire cylinder 7 (P0307)
6) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )
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So a while ago I had no power. The car seemed to idle fine but when I would accelerate, there was no power. Being I just took this into the dealer for the same issue, could I have a bad diverter from the dealer or a possible bigger issue.
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Currently on my 1.8T I'm running a 3 inch catless downpipe into a stock res and muffler, it's great noise on acceleration but I've been told and found through research that if I want idle noise and a deeper tone I should take out the resonator, my question is what's it going to sound like on a catless downpipe with the stock muffler and no res also will there be enough back pressure to start okay and not loose any power, my last question is what's it going to be like on the highway when I'm at high Rpms for a long period is it annoying or does it sound nice ? What about cutting out the res with a 3 inch catless downpipe
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My 01 gti VR6 just started shaking pretty hard under acceleration on the front end. I'm guessing I snapped something or loosened something on launch. It was running fine on the way to the hardware store. Then I took off quickly because of oncoming traffic and suddenly it started shaking on the whole front end. I can feel it and see it from the wheel to the dashboard. It happens around 30 Mph. I picked up the car put it on jack stands and when the load is off the tires it doesn't seem to shake. Being that it happened so suddenly I am not leaning towards a bent rim or alignment. I don't see much wear to the dog mount underneath and the engine doesn't seem to rock much when revving or putting in gear so I'm not thinking much for broken engine mounts.
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1.8T ... Well, initially, engine light came on with a violent shake from the engine compartment. It was really really bad. I thought the engine mount just broke off or something...
First I looked at the coil packs and the spark plugs. The spark plugs were pretty old (I got the 02 Jetta 1.8T at ~140k miles for 1k, so no surprises). Spark plug on cylinder 2 was real bad, and that was the cylinder with the misfire code. Got a new set of spark plugs first. It worked a lot and the violent shuddering mostly went away.
The engine still idled erratically jumping and dipping at idle, even with the A/C off. So I replaced the coil pack on cylinder 2 after doing the coil pack switch test... After replacing the one coil pack, the engine idles like like it's new.
When I put the car in neutral and rev the engine to the redline, it revs nicely, very smooth. When I drive the car, when I accelerate reasonably slowly with the traffic, the car drives just fine. If I keep the car in lower gears and use light throttle to accelerate, it is smooth even past the rpm range where the turbo would be spooled up.
It is only when I dip into the throttle a bit more (no where near full throttle) to try to pass a car or accelerate just a bit harder, a little past ~2200rpm ish which is when the turbo starts spooling from the sound of it, it starts shuddering badly, and check engine light comes back on. The code shows misfire in cylinder 2.
My guess is there's something off with fuel system. My non-mechanic thought process is that maybe the injector is clogged and when it's light throttle, light acceleration, it injects little fuel and its ok, but when under heavier load / throttle, it tries to inject more fuel, but can't because it's clogged...
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I have a 96 chevy Silverado 4x4 5.7 motor and it does the same thing but it doesn't leave in first gear, it misfires and high rpms and doesn't go in overdrive. but if I drive a little while and turn it off, it's fine it acts like a normal truck would. then if my truck is off for more that a couple of hours it goes back to it acting up.
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