Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 VR6 Shaking Under Acceleration
Jun 23, 2016
My 01 gti VR6 just started shaking pretty hard under acceleration on the front end. I'm guessing I snapped something or loosened something on launch. It was running fine on the way to the hardware store. Then I took off quickly because of oncoming traffic and suddenly it started shaking on the whole front end. I can feel it and see it from the wheel to the dashboard. It happens around 30 Mph. I picked up the car put it on jack stands and when the load is off the tires it doesn't seem to shake. Being that it happened so suddenly I am not leaning towards a bent rim or alignment. I don't see much wear to the dog mount underneath and the engine doesn't seem to rock much when revving or putting in gear so I'm not thinking much for broken engine mounts.
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Wondering what could be possible causes of severe shaking while under acceleration?? Also does it worse when turning right. Will just vibrate and start going wherever.
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So I lowered my car sometime last year and ever since then when i make a right turn above 20mph it caused my car to shake pretty violently. i figured it might have been my Left outer cv joint so I changed the axle, solved my problem temporarily but didn't really make it any better. Recently its gotten way worse and now shakes on any sort of acceleration, and at the slightest turn of the wheel towards the right side. If I left off the gas, put it in neutral, engage the clutch, or turn the wheel to the left it goes away. Could this be the right side inner CV joint or something else? Car shakes under acceleration or right turns, is it my axle?
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I'm almost at a lose here. I have a 01 1.8t golf and at 60 the steering wheel shakes and at 80+ i feel it in the whole car. I've already replaced both axles, wheel bearings, tie rods, ball joints, new coilovers, new wheels and tires, and passenger side control arm. There's not much more I can replace besides hubs and driver control arm or do u think it could be defective parts like one of the new axles.
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My '01 VR6 GTI with new struts, A-arms, ball joints, wheel bearings, tie-rods and ends, etc. has started to get a shimmy through the steering only under acceleration. Half-shafts?
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Situation 01 Jetta AEG 2.0L codes catalyst below threshold and random misfires.
•found exhaust clogged due up catalyst. It was actually making contact with the rear O2
-replaced cat as an assembly and reset codes with Ross-tech
• start up, idles perfect no hesitation smooth. Road tested it and upon entering freeway ramp at it started stuttering/misfiring
• CEL flashed for cylinder 3 & 4. Inspected wires found #3 lost continuity, installed new wires.
•road tested and same result but only 4 came back. Swap plug with #2 and retested.
• #3 and 4 misfire came back again
- shooting in the dark to identify which way to go with it I tested:
•compression was solid 140
•fuel pressure 35 psi at idle and 45 when snapping the throttle.
-Suspicious spec is 55-72psi
•squeezed the return line to inspect if the Fuel pressure regulator valve possibly leaking excess.
Psi never went higher than 45 at idle and throttle snap to wot
•graphed the tps signal smooth with out drops or glitches up to values of 84 according to toss tech scan tool
•looking at measiring blocks one item that was odd is engine load at idle 99.5%
-swapped parts with known good parts with a good running 2002 Jetta aeg motor.
•MAF -no change
•ignition control module/ coil pack no change
-today ill be checking fuel pressure at the fuel pump and inspect if the fuel filter possibly clogged.
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As the title states, my car begins to shake on the passenger side when under acceleration between 60-say 80 mph...
I first thought maybe my wheel was warped because I think I hear what sounds like a cheap set of tires but only from the passenger side not the drivers side... but I'm prob over thinking and fooling myself into a new set of wheels.
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I recently bought my first VW 1.9TDI and noticed that the car shakes between 75-85km/h, both when I drive at those speeds, accelerate and or even brake during that region. I know the car needs an alignment which I have booked in when I change to my winter tires tomorrow, but could this issue be something else like a bent rim? Or what else could this issue be coming from during those speeds.
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Okay, I'm driving 35mph and i feel this bad shake. I go to Les Schwab(bad choice) and they say wheel bearing. Okay so I replace both of them. After that, I'm stoked get in my car and same crap. Im pissed at this point so i am now thinking CV joint. but it could be the inner jv, in the tranny, or something else.
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So my car is acting weird lately. Running on 2 cyl? That Clacking sound tho also the engine is shaking bad ..
I already got new crack sensor I don't think that's the case
Here is a video : [URL] ....
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So my VR6 shakes quite a bit on startup and when I turn it off. I figured it was the dogbone mount. I did the clutch trick, jacked up the front end and engaged the transmission. Of course the engine shook a lot, in a forward to back motion, signalling the dogbone was bad. Shifts into and out of 1st and 2nd were pretty rough and i could feel it in both the driver and passenger seats during idle.
Well I just installed the ECS dogbone and while I can't really feel it much in the seats anymore, it still shakes quite a bit once the transmission is engaged. Low end shifts really haven't gotten much better either.
So I am thinking its either one of the other mounts, or the polyurethane bushing needs to be worked in. I am leading toward the former.
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So I was on my to get some food and when started my car it was shaking really bad and had a ticking sound. I popped the hood and the engine was shaking violently, it drove fine one day to walmart and the next day started doing this. I am thinking it could be the coil pack because it was raining when I went to start it.
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I have a 2003 golf 1.8t and the car shakes when launching from a stop. it shakes as long as the rpm is below about 1200. i have an o2 b1 s1 error. also the car is not performing well and seems like it doesn't have enough boost although the boost is reaching its max amount. the car is mapped at 1.3 bar. so does the o2 sensor cause such issues or is it something else ??
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When flooring with 1st or 2nd gear engine suddenly lose power, smoke like hell (white smoke) and engine start to shake badly? It disappears after few minutes when engine turned off. When cold it will go in "that" stage almost on every flooring. When warm it possible will start to shake a little and disappear after a minute without turning off engine.
After CCV breather valve(was broken) , turbo and nozzle replacement this problem still exist.
What could cause that problem?
*Golf mk4 AHF 81kw with new turbo, new bigger nozzles and chip.
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I have 3 major problems which non of my mechanics can figure out.
One problem I have is, I hear a clunk when I change from D to R or R to D ( no pause for neutral ), If I do pause, there is no clunk. Could this be a u joint problem?
Second issue I have is when I turn left, the whole car shakes side to side, it feels like its the transmission that's shaking and seems like its going to fall off. CV Axle or drive shaft?
Third, when I accelerate from 0 - 20 mph, I have a quick shimmy from the transmission area but stops after I go to 25mph. U joint or center bearing?
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Been having an issue with my 01 Wolfsburg VW Jetta 1.8T.
Whenever I'm accelerating (most noticeable in lower gears), it seems like the turbo can't keep up. Used to sound like a nice clean consistent whooooosh spooling up, but now its more like brrrr......brrrrr......brrrrr.....
Don't know how else to describe it. Seems to start and stop frequently. Will try getting a video clip of this tomorrow.
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So a while ago I had no power. The car seemed to idle fine but when I would accelerate, there was no power. Being I just took this into the dealer for the same issue, could I have a bad diverter from the dealer or a possible bigger issue.
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Currently on my 1.8T I'm running a 3 inch catless downpipe into a stock res and muffler, it's great noise on acceleration but I've been told and found through research that if I want idle noise and a deeper tone I should take out the resonator, my question is what's it going to sound like on a catless downpipe with the stock muffler and no res also will there be enough back pressure to start okay and not loose any power, my last question is what's it going to be like on the highway when I'm at high Rpms for a long period is it annoying or does it sound nice ? What about cutting out the res with a 3 inch catless downpipe
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1.8T ... Well, initially, engine light came on with a violent shake from the engine compartment. It was really really bad. I thought the engine mount just broke off or something...
First I looked at the coil packs and the spark plugs. The spark plugs were pretty old (I got the 02 Jetta 1.8T at ~140k miles for 1k, so no surprises). Spark plug on cylinder 2 was real bad, and that was the cylinder with the misfire code. Got a new set of spark plugs first. It worked a lot and the violent shuddering mostly went away.
The engine still idled erratically jumping and dipping at idle, even with the A/C off. So I replaced the coil pack on cylinder 2 after doing the coil pack switch test... After replacing the one coil pack, the engine idles like like it's new.
When I put the car in neutral and rev the engine to the redline, it revs nicely, very smooth. When I drive the car, when I accelerate reasonably slowly with the traffic, the car drives just fine. If I keep the car in lower gears and use light throttle to accelerate, it is smooth even past the rpm range where the turbo would be spooled up.
It is only when I dip into the throttle a bit more (no where near full throttle) to try to pass a car or accelerate just a bit harder, a little past ~2200rpm ish which is when the turbo starts spooling from the sound of it, it starts shuddering badly, and check engine light comes back on. The code shows misfire in cylinder 2.
My guess is there's something off with fuel system. My non-mechanic thought process is that maybe the injector is clogged and when it's light throttle, light acceleration, it injects little fuel and its ok, but when under heavier load / throttle, it tries to inject more fuel, but can't because it's clogged...
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My GF recently picked up a 1.8t (AWW) and we scanned it with vag com before she bought. We knew it had some misfires and a few other small problems so when it ran at higher RPMs we didn't think anything of it.
Fast forward to now after replacing some parts (hoses, coil packs etc...) and still the RPMs seem a little high compared to my mk4 vr6. On the streets in 4th gear, my car stays around 2200 and on the hwy its probably around 3300 in 5th gear at 75mph.
On the streets, her 1.8t seems normal but on the hwy in 5th gear, she's at nearly 4k. So my question... Do 1.8ts run at higher rpms under normal driving?
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I just recently bought a 2001 Jetta with the 1.8t (AWD) because it had low mileage and a reasonable price. I've never owned a VW before so I know very little about them in general. This is my second vehicle with a turbo, my first was a Saab 93.
When I purchased the car it had the check engine light on and the codes were Vehicle Speed Sensor and Secondary Air Injection Pump. I was able to get it to stop throwing those codes just by cleaning off the components and reconnecting them. The only predominant problem I've been experiencing is that under hard acceleration in 3rd-5th the car will jump and jerk. Its almost like the car isn't getting enough fuel/air but I'm not entirely sure if that's an accurate diagnosis. I've ruled out transmission issues because there are no problems when driving at a slow-normal acceleration. Any insight on where I should begin to fix this issue would be welcomed because I feel as if my motor mounts will break due the force of the jerking.
My last issue has to do with what happened yesterday. My check engine light came back on randomly when I cranked my car. I had no issues the previous day (besides the aforementioned "jerking) so it seemed odd but what really worried me was when I started driving. Whenever I would release the accelerator the car would slow down suddenly as if I applied the brake. The problem continued throughout the day until I got the codes checked and they read Vehicle Speed Sensor (which I've seen has numerous issues from the factory installation) and the Bank 1 O2 sensor. Today I started my car and the check engine light wasn't on.
My car drove like normal (still the hard acceleration jerking but no dramatic deceleration when I release the accelerator). Now to my question, can an O2 sensor cause a problem like this? Maybe the MAF is bad? Not even sure if this vehicle will throw a code for the MAF ...
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