Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2005 Ford Escape Transmission Fluid Change
Jan 6, 2015
So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
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Doing trans fluid change on the 2009 -2012? Is it the same as myCD4E drain 4 refill? I know its a different fluid probably buy from Ford.
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How is the oil change reminder reset? Also how is the computer reset for a new new battery?
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I just did a Sable 3.0 engine swap on my 01 Escape auto 4WD with 112K miles. Prior engine spun several lower end bearings. New motor runs fine. Prior to swap, trans operated fine. Didn't have any of the apparently common 2-3 flare or OD shudder problems. Car was dealer maintained and fluid looked fine - didn't look or smell burned.
Now, after the engine swap, from a stop or at low RPM situations like around a slow corner, the trans seems starved. Have to rev the engine a bit to get the pressure up, car jerks into gear and then trans operates fine. Shifts through all gears fine and goes into and out of OD fine. This happens from a stop when trying to shift into either Fwd or Rev. Feels like the trans is low on fluid, but it's not.
I drained the trans prior to doing the swap and refilled with Mercon, not Mercon V.
No engine codes. Kept my OBDII reader on while driving to see if it threw any temp codes. Still no codes.
I'm sure that the trans was reinstalled correctly. I'm sure the TC didn't cram the pump.
If I recall, there are only four trans sensors and I'm sure I hooked them up correctly.
I'd like to like this car but it's getting pretty hard. Since I bought it a month ago, I've been under it more than I've been in it.
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How to change belt on water pump on my 08 V6 the hayness says there is a tensioner on the v6 well i am stumped cant find it so ....... Belt is tight I see no way to get slack in belt to change it .top pulley and pump pulley is all i see...
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It has been running very smooth since I changed the lower intake gaskets, and I just went on a 1500 mile round trip roadtrip. It ran perfect the whole way, getting 22mpg to boot. In the last 50 miles, the CEL came one. The code read P0420 which is the cat converter? I dont want to fork up for a new one, are there any tricks to get this fixed or cleared?
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I have a 2011 Escape Limited 3.0l V6 AWD. Did a spark plug change at 115k miles for the first time per dealership recommendation. Got new plugs from dealership.
Was pretty cut and dry to replace. Did not check gap on plugs as was told they are not adjustable per dealership. Put pea sized amount of dialectric grease in the COPs and then fitted the plugs into several times with a little spin to coat evenly. Installed plugs to 11 ft.lbs. and reassembled all components without issue. Installed them one at a time so as to not mix up the coils.
I did break the 90-degree nylon quick disconnect for the fuel line that connects to the fuel supply manifold and had to purchase a new hose assembly. Reinstalled without issue.
Went to start up and engine cranks (hiccup sound) but does not turn over. The sound is weak and not a throaty crank like an engine should give. Check engine light flashes on dash and issues a frequent tone also.
Wondering what the issue is? Are they the wrong plugs? Improperly gapped? Possible the fuel line did not pressurize and there is no fuel getting to the plugs for ignition? Kind of stumped as it was a pretty cut-and-dry replacement (if such a thing is possible).
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My 2010 2.5L FWD Escape has oil on the steering boot and has run down on crossmember (?) It is equipped with Electric Power Steering. This appears to be coming from the rack and pinion but does it have fluid in it? How can you add if it does. I have 96,000 miles on the vehicle and except for a drivers door actuator and scratched drivers glass, this is only problem.
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Having issues with transmission fluid spewing out the dipstick hole? Truck is an 04 Escape and has worked great until I had a rear manifold leaking. I took the truck to our mechanic and he replaced the rear manifold cat converter. He broke 3 of the 4 bolts so he told me he had to roll the engine forward to gain access to tap out the broken bolts. Im sure he took the throttle body and intake off for more room. I Got the truck back and noticed transmission fluid all over my driveway the next day. I contacted the mechanic and he states it was nothing he did and cannot figure why this is happening. Basically told me to fly a kite!
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I only have one key and 2 FOBs for my 2005 Escape, but I do have the key number (4 digits plus a letter). I understand I need more than one to program another myself. Is there an inexpensive way to obtain/program a backup key?
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I was out driving tonight and our 03 escape started making a thumping sound like you hear when you have a flat. I turned the corner and noticed that the steering wheel is now at a 30 degree angle as I'm going straight and when I hit the brakes the steering wheel straightens out but the car doesn't change direction. It's dark so I can only see so much but the tie rods are good and tight from what I can tell same with ball joints. They just did that subframe recall a month or so ago. My concern is steering box but other than these symptoms it seems to be working fine.
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I have a 2005 Escape Hybrid. Last summer, the A/C went out, so when in the fall I finally got around to having the cooling system flushed. Did the trick, and A/C works fine. Now that winter's come along, I've noticed an issue with the heat. All fan speeds work correctly, and the dash controls for heat and cold work properly. But what's odd is that I get plenty of heat when the vehicle is at speed, above about 30 mph. As soon as I slow down below that, or hit a red light, there's no heat. The blower just blows cold air until I am back up at speed again.
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I have a 2005 3.0 front wheel drive Escape that the kids normally drive and recently had a crank over/ no start condition in my driveway. I replaced the fuel pump about three months ago. Turned the key and couldn't hear the fuel pump so I proceeded to check the fuses and relays and everything seemed good. I also checked the inertia switch and it seemed ok as well.
I then checked for power at the harness right above the fuel tank and I had 12 volts on two of the four wires so I assume that I have power to my pump. I then took out the pump and had it replaced it under warranty. So I proceeded to install the new pump and I thought that I would hook the harness back up and just turn on the key for a second to be sure that the new pump is working and there was nothing to be heard. Looking for a wiring diagram/colors of the fuel pump?
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2005 Ford Escape XLT (4WD) (non-Hybrid). Our Escape had uneven wear on the front tires. Because the mechanic we've used over the year we've lived here doesn't do alignments, my wife took it to a chain tire place on a Sunday afternoon because they were open. He said the ball joint was bad, so he wouldn't do an alignment and because they were super-busy and short-handed, he asked if we could bring it back during the week for an estimate.
A couple of weeks later I called my guy, who recommended a shop a few blocks over who does alignments, so we took it to him. We told him that the chain store had said about the ball joint. I'm pretty sure that before we took it to him, the car had started occasionally started jerking a bit in a curve, but it's been a couple of months and I only know for certain it was doing it after. (I'm not certain if it was doing it before because my wife was mostly driving that vehicle, then)
The first time it was in his shop, the mechanic said it wasn't the ball joint, but the tie-rod. After fixing that, he sold us a couple of tires and aligned the vehicle. On the way home is when I know I was aware of the car jerking a bit in curves. I'm pretty sure it was jerking in the direction of the curve, but again, it's been a couple of months.
Took it back to him the next day and though we suggested he test drive in one direction which had multiple curves, he said he retightened the tie-rod because one side wasn't right, ran it through alignment again and test drove it in another direction which only had one s-curve.
I want to say it was better for a while, but I can't really swear that to be the case. We've long had an ABS light which our previous mechanic in another part of the country said was the sensor. I had forgotten, but the first mechanic we used here had broken the axle and replaced it at no charge, when he was replacing the alternator.
The alignment mechanic said that we had a bad tone ring and the easiest thing to do would be to replace the axle. A week or so later, I called him and said we were ready to do the brakes, but I have one car and he does many and I wasn't really clear, instead of doing anything with the axle or the tone ring, his shop replaced the brakes.
Somewhere around this time, the vehicle started occasionally jerking to the left. Not in a curve, but in the straightways and the best we can tell, it's mostly when we're accelerating and is most noticeable between 30 & 45 MPH. This may not be entirely true, but it's true enough that we believe it. The "jerk" sort of feels like a car driving through fresh snow "falling" into a rut. It also sort of feels what I imagine a faulty ball joint might feel like.
While it was still more of a minor issue -- it happened more rarely than it's happening now -- we took it to what I'd consider our regular mechanic and got him to replace the axle. I didn't actually say anything to him about the jerking because it was still too occasional and I was hoping it was related to the tone ring. It's now gotten progressively worse and I'm at a loss for diagnosis. You'd think that if it was the ball joint, between the two alignments, the brake job, tire replacement and rotation and getting a new axle, one of the mechanics would have noticed it.
Compounding the issue is the fact that there's two (or three if you count the first guy, four if you count the chain tire place) garages involved. Also, I've done some of the engine work my regular mechanic recommended, so there could be a thing about me getting them to diagnose and then doing the work myself or the one mechanic replacing the axle like the alignment guy had suggested. Who knows. We haven't lived here long, so there's not really a lot of history. All I know is that they all get good Yelp reviews.
Also should probably be factored... the alignment mechanic said he felt vibration around 45 MPH and because didn't think we use the 4WD, he said he disconnected the drive shaft from the CV joint (or something like that) as a means of diagnosis. (If there had been a vibration, we hadn't paid attention to it and he did this at no charge, all on his own) Also, a few years ago, prior to our move, the transmission was rebuilt twice (once under the transmission shop's warranty) and I don't remember what the vehicle was doing, but on a third trip the transmission shop had to do something with the transfer case.
Mostly around 40 MPH -- though it may just be too subtle to notice at higher speeds and we rarely drive this vehicle on the highway, so we're mostly traveling short distances at 35 & 45 MPH -- the SUV lurches a bit toward the left and there's a little jerk in the steering wheel. It really feels like I described, like it's getting caught in a rut. Both the car and the steering wheel jerks to the left side. There hasn't been any noticeable uneven wear over the three months we've been trying to figure this out and the front tires look straight up and down. We also haven't noticed any noise. Not going down the road, not when we turn or when the steering wheel jerks.
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2005 Mazda Trib. will not let me shift out of park . It doesn't happen all the time button seems to be sticking . Is it the button or the electrical switch on the brake pedal ? This belongs to a friend of mine and this is the info I'm getting .
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My wife and I have a 2002 Escape and basically love it, however, at my last oil change, at 26,000 miles, I told the service manager about a shudder I was getting from the transmission when it down-shifted from overdrive. He suggested a transmission fluid change since I was in the range that Ford recommends.
That totally corrected the problem for almost 4000 miles, however, the shudder is slowly starting to come back at 30000 miles.
Just yesterday, I took it to my Ford dealer for inspection, oil change and it's 30000 mile check up and I mentioned this problem to the service manager. He suggested that I make an appointment.
The problem is that right now, it is happening so infrequently, if they took it for a test drive, it might happen right away, or not at all, but I know it will get worse as time goes on.
Question. Should I wait until the problem gets worse, and second, what might be the cause?
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I have had my truck in the local ford shop because the fluid was a little bit burnt smelling, I had a flush done to it and then afterwards I noticed first gear started hesistating and then would go to second, when it warm it doesn't have any issues, shifts normal, but when cold or starting off even with running in the morning before going to work its still does that, I would like to find out before it starts becoming a serious problem....
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My girl has a 2008 Escape 3.0L FWD auto trans. Is it possible to install a transmission cooler? She wants to pull a small trailer/camper.
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I was leaving work in my 05 Escape. Started up fine, made it to the other end of the parking lot and it died. Restarted it and made it about 10 feet and it died again. Now when I try to start it, it just make a single click. Tried getting a jump from a friend and nothing but the same click when trying to start it. Lights are bright (haven't checked batt voltage yet, but will tomorrow).
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I have a 05 escape hybrid with 75k on it. there is a slight problem every once in a while when it starts the idle jumps up and down and when it is put in reverse it has no power to move. you have to put the pedal to the floor....there are no codes and ford has had the car for a total of three weeks, nothing found and of course it did not act up for them..
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Is there a heater core bypass valve under the hood that may be suspect or would a heat transfer door under the dash be the culprit? Engine operating temp seems to be fine.
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