Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2006 V6 - No Start After Front Timing Chain Cover Replaced
Dec 11, 2013
I had the front timing chain cover replaced, ever since it hasn't started. It would turn over fast a couple times and then drag and then repeat.
Found out the "Tone ring" was warped, it's been replaced and now it just turns over and over and no start but it doesn't drag anymore.
We can smell the fuel, and pulled a plug and can see spark while turning over and I was told fuel came out the plug hole so there is fuel there.
Tried a new cam sensor, crank sensor and battery and no change. Is there something else in the removal and replacement of the front timing chain cover that could be causing this?
I'm not a huge believer in coincidence as the vehicle was running great before this job.
2006 Ford Escape
3.0L v6 w auto tranny.
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My truck has had this annoying tendency to drink coolant. I believe I took care of it by replacing the thermostat gasket. Not so, it drinks about a quart every 50 miles - so quite a bit really.
Finally bit the bullet and took it to the dealer so that they could figure out where the coolant was going.
Answer I got back was - timing cover gasket, water pump, lower radiator hose.
The water pump appears to be good, its just the gasket that's bad. So my question is - how significant is the timing chain cover leak? Poking around online it appears to be reasonably common, but sounds very expensive. The dealer indicated it would be 2 days work minimum.
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My 2003' Explorer XLT (4.0L V6) has an oil leak. I tracked it down to the passenger side, rear, bolt head on the valve cover (back by firewall). I took it to a guy who replaced the valve cover gaskets, but it is still leaking. He claimed when he had the cover off he looked for any cracks on it, but did not see any at the time.
Anyways, I was searching around and found several explorers leaking in or around the same area of the valve cover. And it turned out that there issue stemmed from bad timing chain guides, causing the valve cover to crack.
I do notice that on a cold start, I hear a rattling when I first start it up. It rattles for maybe that first 1-2 seconds when starting. Is this my timing chain rattling around? If that is the case, how much this could set a guy back on repairs?
I guess I don't know whether to just replace the valve cover, or if I should dig into it to see if the real issue is the timing chain guides/tensioner. Mileage is approximately 121,000....
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I have 2000 V6 3.0 Ranger and it has sprung a small coolant leak from timing chain cover gasket. I think just few drips after driving a while since I don't see significant drop in coolant level (Took a month to notice level dropped in reservoir) and did not see an active leak while idling. No water in the oil.
The proper repair would be to replace the gasket, but for the age and condition of the truck, I don't think it is worth it. Searching for a cheaper solution, I found K-Seal and see lots of reviews with success. Will it damage the cooling system in anyway? I think it would be worth a try even if it doesn't fix the leak as long as it does not cause any harm.
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I have a 2003 Eddie Bauer explorer with the 4.0L SOHC . I have a coolant leak from the passenger side that is not a water pump issue.
When removing the timing chain cover with the engine in the car, do I need to remove any accessories ( power steering , alternator etc. ) or their brackets?
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I am wondering if there are things I should get done/replaced when they open the engine up. I had asked at the dealer if there were other parts that should be replaced at this time, but was told that there was not.
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I have seen this minor oil leak on the left engine side that facing the firewall for sometimes, but just found time to bring to dealer. After some searching on Internet, I suggested to them that it might be leaking from the timing chain cover.
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While I had it in the shop, I had them look at an oil leak that I have been having. According to the dealer, it is leaking from the timing chain cover. They have ordered some parts and I will be taking it in for the fix next week. I don't have a full list of which parts they will be replacing, but he did mention removing the valve covers and installing a new oil pressure switch while they were in there.
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First, the dealer said it was a cracked oil filter cap, so they replaced that...I brought it home and it was still leaking.
Brought it back to the dealer, and now they are saying the Timing Chain Cover Seal is leaking.
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My daughter just bought a 2002 Santa Fe LX which is drooling oil all over the alternator and everything else in that area. I found what (I think) is the source (but you have to be a contortionist to see it.) I haven't been able to find any good parts identification photos of that area, but I think that this is the bottom corner of the lower timing belt cover.
I guess the repair will require going through the first several steps used when replacing a timing belt. I don't plan on going any further than needed to fix this leak, though, since the timing belt was reportedly changed about 25K miles ago.
Before I start taking all this apart, I have a couple questions:
1. What might be holding this corner out, away from the block?
2. Is the timing belt cover supposed to snap into place over a lip on the block? Or, should it be sealed with gasket sealer -- or something similar?
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I have a 13 RX350 with 10,000 miles with a side engine oil leak. I looked underneath and I think it's the timing chain cover seal. Took it to the dealer and they put dye in my oil to figure out where the leak is coming from. They suspect it to the timing chain cover as well. I am aware that 07 ES350s had a know oil leak coming from the timing chain cover but haven't heard anything about the RX having this issue. My service rep said they would have to remove the engine to fix the leak.
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Timing chain was installed with No. 1 at TDC and mark on cam at 12 o'clock position as stated in the Haynes manual for the truck. I did not remove or even touch the distributor since replacing the intake gaskets ~3 years ago. Will check to see if any codes are showing in the morning when I have my laptop at home.
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I had to replace the chain tensionor 3 times. I would like to know if that is a common problem with the 2.2L engines. How the chain is oiled while in operation.
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OK... I know next to nothing about cars. I have a '99 Chevy Lumina I just bought in February. It has been one problem after another. The water pump has been changed and I just got my car back on Monday because there was a leak on the timing chain cover. Now, the car is smoking on the passenger side. Its not a light smoke, but its not heavy yet. I noticed it on the way to work this morning. I opened the hood, it is coming from the left side (looking at it, so the passenger side) of the engine maybe kinda underneath it. I dunno what to do, but I'm ready to push that thing into a lake.
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I wanted to try FordJunkyNC's way to run a jumper to stop the alarm from going off, but my problem is the passenger front, not the rear... different color coding on the wires..
Jumped the passenger front door? If so, which wires did you jump? Want to jump the 06 Escape doors, just don't want to short anything out...
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I am having a problem starting my Escape. It ran fine when i parked it. Now it turns over but wont start.
It turns, almost catches, then turns slower. White smoke comes out of the exhaust, which means it is getting fuel i think. When I crank it all the dash warning lights go off. I tried the spare key. I tried pushing the gas pedal. No codes on the scanner. I switched the fuel relay (r3) with the fan relay (r4). I tilted the column a few times. Coils and wiring do not show any damage or wear. I opened the air filter with no change.
The only change i notice is that when turning the key has some resistance. It does not feel like it used to turn. This year I had to install a new battery and alternator. At 90k miles i gave it a tune up (plugs, boots and coils). It has 116k on it now.
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My wife has a 2004 escape v6 (3.0L). The valve cover seal was leaking so I decided, why not change the plugs since I'm already going to have the intake manifold off.
I got down there, replaced the seal (just the front side, didn't want to disassemble something that wasn't broke) and then replaced all 6 plugs and boots (with springs). Fired it up and everything seemed fine. She went to drive to work and the CEL started to flash. I read the code and there were 4 (Don't remember exactly what they were), but it was a combination of things resulting from a misfire in cylinder 4. Since it was one of the front ones. I just pulled the plugged and replaced it hoping I had gotten a dud from the factory. Nope, still doing it.
I didn't take off the fuel lines, just the air intake on the top. I did not change the coils, but everything was running fine before I changed plugs so logic would dictate it is something I did. Only seems to misfire at higher speeds. Also, her battery light randomly comes on, but the battery and alternator test good. This has been happening a while.
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Wifes Escape with the 3.0 has been progressively getting harder to start. It spins over just fine, but now takes between 3 to 8 seconds to actually fire. In the last six months the alternator, spark plugs, air filter have all been replaced. Engine runs perfectly, never stalls and seems fine in every other way. I've cleaned the throttle body and the IAC is working fine.
Did some troubleshooting and sure enough, we are getting no spark for a few seconds and the engine runs fine when it finally gets spark. Would this be the crank position sensor? Cam position sensor causing this? Not sure what is supposed to happen during the starting sequence in regards to what sensors are in being read by the PCM and then enabling spark.
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