Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2006 - Hard To Start Now Takes Between 3 To 8 Seconds To Actually Fire
Mar 7, 2015
Wifes Escape with the 3.0 has been progressively getting harder to start. It spins over just fine, but now takes between 3 to 8 seconds to actually fire. In the last six months the alternator, spark plugs, air filter have all been replaced. Engine runs perfectly, never stalls and seems fine in every other way. I've cleaned the throttle body and the IAC is working fine.
Did some troubleshooting and sure enough, we are getting no spark for a few seconds and the engine runs fine when it finally gets spark. Would this be the crank position sensor? Cam position sensor causing this? Not sure what is supposed to happen during the starting sequence in regards to what sensors are in being read by the PCM and then enabling spark.
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I've noticed it takes my truck much longer to start recently. I have 2 brand new interstate batteries, just changed both fuel filters and my truck still takes a good 10 seconds or more of spinning over to fire. Is this normal? I don't remember my truck doing this before, it usually fired right up even in winter. Could this be an injector or glow plug issue?
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I have a 2004 Escape, 4x4, V6 with 116k on it. Recently it won't start until it's sat for a few hours. I'll drive it for a couple of days without a problem and then it will refuse to start. The Battery is strong, the starter is trying to turn it over but it won't fire up. I've seen several other posts with Escapes having this same issue but none have given a resolution. I'm figuring it may be the fuel filter, the fuel pump, or the computer control.
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I have a 2001 ford escape V6 3.0l. Dropped a new motor in it, got everything running fine. Surprisingly the most frustrating part was when we mixed up the order of the front 3 coils but we got it!
It drove "ok" for a week and a half. Then it started to shudder at 45-55 mph. Got it home that afternoon and started to diagnose why it would shudder. Suspect its not shifting right.We started to diagnose what was wrong, made some adjustments to IAC, MAF and checked a few other things. We then went to test drive, started up fine, drove up the driveway 50' and it died. It didnt sputter and die, it just lost all power and died.
Got it back in the garage and tried to get it started again. Turned Key... nothing. Dash lit up but starter and fuel pump didnt fire. Odometer reads ------. I can jump the starter by pulling the starter relay. Same for the fuel pump. I use a jumper wire between two pins and I can get the starter to crank and the fuel pump runs when I jumper wire the relay too. So I know its not a bad starter nor a bad fuel pump.
Odd part of everything is that It drove just fine that day (other than shuddering). Then started just fine, then died. When it died we were making a sharp left turn in the driveway. We've messed with the steering wheel because it was "accidentally" put upside down when we dropped in the new engine. Could something have grounded out in the steering wheel? Air Bag? Maybe a problem in the clock spring? What would stop it from The fuel, starter and spark all at the same time? Bad PCM? Grounding issues?
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Alright I thought changing a fuel filter was fool proof but I changed the fuel filter in my 2001 escape v6. awd and now for some reason it wont start right up like it used too before the filter change. It cranks for a few seconds then fires up and runs perfectly fine it sits for a few hours same issue where as before the filter change it fired up fine every time, what did I do wrong. 2001 ford escape...
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2 questions regarding my 2005 Mariner 3.0L, as follows:
1. After a cold start (in the garage, so not freezing cold) the water pump belt - not the serpentine belt - squeaks for 15 - 20 seconds; ambient temperature doesn't matter. I had put a new belt on about a year ago, then this began 6 or so months later. Thinking I may have a defective belt, I replaced it again about 3 months ago, but the squeaking has continued - starting immediately after the replacement. My analysis is that the water pump bearing is going south. I've noticed that it is taking a little longer for the squeak to go away in the past few weeks, so it's probably getting worse, altho no leaks at this point. So the question is, so any other reason this is happening?
2. Assuming I do need to replace the WP, I bought a new one from the local parts house. I have a shop manual for the car, which tells me to remove the thermostat housing, hose connection to the WP, etc., and then remove the WP by removing just 3 bolts. However, the replacement part is just the front of the housing with the impeller and pulley included, so there are a half-dozen or so bolts that hold this new part onto the WP housing. So, doing this change-out? Will the front of the WP housing come off by itself without disconnecting the hose, etc., or do I first have to remove the whole WP and then take it apart to replace the impeller and front cover? I can't really tell from the pic in the shop manual, and it doesn't address dis-assembly of the WP.
Also, I'd like to just remove the belt w/o cutting it and having to buy a new one. Can I do this by just loosening the WP bolts? (I know how to re-install, obviously.)
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My wife has a 2010 Ford Escape. When we try to start it you have to push the key in REAL hard to get it to crank. It's been doing this for a while and seems to be getting worse. It took her 10 minutes before she could get it to crank earlier today. Our mechanic couldn't find anything wrong the first time we went in.
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2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...
When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!
Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...
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I'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it
She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)
She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.
She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.
My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?
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I am having a problem starting my Escape. It ran fine when i parked it. Now it turns over but wont start.
It turns, almost catches, then turns slower. White smoke comes out of the exhaust, which means it is getting fuel i think. When I crank it all the dash warning lights go off. I tried the spare key. I tried pushing the gas pedal. No codes on the scanner. I switched the fuel relay (r3) with the fan relay (r4). I tilted the column a few times. Coils and wiring do not show any damage or wear. I opened the air filter with no change.
The only change i notice is that when turning the key has some resistance. It does not feel like it used to turn. This year I had to install a new battery and alternator. At 90k miles i gave it a tune up (plugs, boots and coils). It has 116k on it now.
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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I had the front timing chain cover replaced, ever since it hasn't started. It would turn over fast a couple times and then drag and then repeat.
Found out the "Tone ring" was warped, it's been replaced and now it just turns over and over and no start but it doesn't drag anymore.
We can smell the fuel, and pulled a plug and can see spark while turning over and I was told fuel came out the plug hole so there is fuel there.
Tried a new cam sensor, crank sensor and battery and no change. Is there something else in the removal and replacement of the front timing chain cover that could be causing this?
I'm not a huge believer in coincidence as the vehicle was running great before this job.
2006 Ford Escape
3.0L v6 w auto tranny.
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My Escape is starting to have starting problems. I go to start it and all of the instrument cluster warning lights come on, but the truck doesn't start. If I wait a little while, all of the sudden it starts but all of the sudden the cluster lights start flashing, the various warning beeps sound off, the emergency flashers go off, etc. This lasts anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes until everything resets and goes back to normal. What is causing this?
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I have a 2006 F250 Lariat super Duty / 6.0 L engine / 143000+ miles / once started and transmission shifted into drive it takes 5 seconds or more for it to engage hard or if I build up the RMS then it jumps into gear hard, after it gets going it feels like I am driving on a washboard until it get warmed up good 10 mile or so. Is it the transmission filter and if so which one, I understand there is a small one on the outside of the transmission if so where? I can't find it.
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On my new/used 2008 Escape XLT 2.3L 2WD. It flashes every two seconds, like the manual says. Lower left corner of instrument cluster.
But I don't recall the warning light flashing when I test drove it. But I did push the buttons on the keyfob and various places on the dash/instrument cluster to see what they did...
Is the anti-theft system an on/off affair? If so, how do I turn it off?
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Along with the many other quirks of my 98 Toyota 4Runner, whenever I have to hit the brakes suddenly and hard it takes my car at least 30 seconds to become responsive to the gas pedal. When I try to accelerate, I can hear the engine rev, but the car doesn't move. Is this a brake issue, or could it be a transmission issue? I have 230k on it.
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2005 xlt 4x4. I was cleaning the threads on the rear constant velocity joint before taking the nut off. Turning the hub was almost impossible without using a steel bar. Is it supposed to be this difficult to roll the rear axles? Yes the selector is in neutral....
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On the wifes Santa Fe 2.4 AWD every few starts it seems to crank over longer than it should. It will usually crank right up like it is supposed to. Every few times it may take 3-4 seconds of cranking before it will fire.
The car runs great, averages over 30mpg per the computer. No codes. I don't have a clue what it could be.
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It driving me crazy. Every 10th start of engine it cranks over and over before it fires up, no codes, changed plugs, wires, crank trigger, fuel filter, upper and lower intake gaskets, injectors, iacv. I have no clue. Runs great all time just starting issue every 10th or so start takes 10- 15 seconds to start
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I am having this on and off problem of getting the shifter out of PARK sometimes its easy sometimes its frozen. I am going to take the plastic off to investigate the linkage more and I know there is a brake shift to unlock the transmission out of park. 2002 ford escape 3.0 ....
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I just finished installing a new set of injectors, standpipes and the blue spring kit on our 2005 Excursion 6.0. The truck idles and runs much better but now it takes almost two seconds of cranking to start the engine. Cold and hot are the same and the length of time between shut down and start doesn't seem to matter either.
What to check? I am planning to check the ICP tonight when I get home. Could I have air trapped some where in the system? This is my first powerstroke so I don't know if this is a possibility.
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