Along with the many other quirks of my 98 Toyota 4Runner, whenever I have to hit the brakes suddenly and hard it takes my car at least 30 seconds to become responsive to the gas pedal. When I try to accelerate, I can hear the engine rev, but the car doesn't move. Is this a brake issue, or could it be a transmission issue? I have 230k on it.
View 8 RepliesSymptoms:
1. When the air is on, it only comes out of the dashboard vents. If I change the flow to be all on the floor, defrost windshield, or anything else, it won't change the direction of the air; it continues to come out of the dashboard front air vents.
2. There is a buzzing that lasts from start for about 10 sec. It then quits. It will come back on for a couple seconds and then go off. It is only in the cabin; cannot be heard outside the car. If we turn off the air, the buzzing stops, but not immediately.
Wifes Escape with the 3.0 has been progressively getting harder to start. It spins over just fine, but now takes between 3 to 8 seconds to actually fire. In the last six months the alternator, spark plugs, air filter have all been replaced. Engine runs perfectly, never stalls and seems fine in every other way. I've cleaned the throttle body and the IAC is working fine.
Did some troubleshooting and sure enough, we are getting no spark for a few seconds and the engine runs fine when it finally gets spark. Would this be the crank position sensor? Cam position sensor causing this? Not sure what is supposed to happen during the starting sequence in regards to what sensors are in being read by the PCM and then enabling spark.
A 2000 Toyota 4Runner was stopping fine. A mechanic informed me that the brake pads were worn down. After the pads were replaced and bled the pedal sinks lower than before and the car requires more pressure to stop. I can pump up the pedal after 3 pushes. I took it back and he has since re-bled the brakes but the pedal still sinks low.
View 15 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 Lariat super Duty / 6.0 L engine / 143000+ miles / once started and transmission shifted into drive it takes 5 seconds or more for it to engage hard or if I build up the RMS then it jumps into gear hard, after it gets going it feels like I am driving on a washboard until it get warmed up good 10 mile or so. Is it the transmission filter and if so which one, I understand there is a small one on the outside of the transmission if so where? I can't find it.
View 14 RepliesI have my Toyota 2000 4 Runners having a slightly problem. When I paddle the brake at the Stop or traffic light, the wheel turns (mostly anti-clockwise) a little bit like 10 to 20 degrees. It doesn't turn all the time but especailly when the car is going slightly downhill such as when I paddle the brake and stop from parking lot onto the main road. The road is a little dip down or sometimes in front of the traffic light and it was slightly inclined. I don't know if this normal or not.
View 7 RepliesI have a 98 Toyota 4Runner, which just started what I'm told is pinging or knocking on "hard accelerations", like accelerating on the merge lane when I see cars coming up behind me in the lane I want to merge into, or going uphill. i have 258,000 miles, and have the SUV serviced regularly and get things fixed when they need it. I told the dealer about it a month ago when I had regular servicing, and he did something to clean the fuel injector, and suggested I try 89 octane (he specifically recommended Sunoco), and if that worked I could try going back to 87 octane (Sunoco was his recommendation again). I did as he suggested, and the pinging/knocking seemed to get better with 89, but returned with 87. I read the Q&A on this, but still have questions. Why did this just start after 14 years? Should I do anything about, in other words is it harmful? If so, what should I do? Does the brand of gasoline have anything to do with this, or anything else for that matter? I am hoping to keep the SUV for a couple more years (300,000 miles), maybe longer.
View 19 RepliesMy 1987 Toyota 4Runner 22RE has a weird cold starting issue. When the temperature is in the low 30s F or below I have to use the gas pedal when I first start it (for only a few seconds) in order to make the starter disengage. If I don't push the gas pedal it chugs at around 250 RPM and the starter remains engaged. If I kick in a little more gas (up to about 1,500 RPM) the starter will immediately disengage and then it runs just fine at around 800 - 900 RPM.
When it's warm out (40 F or higher) it starts up and runs perfectly without any of the aforementioned happening.
Maybe related is the following: when the weather is warmer out this SOMETIMES happens: the engine idles too high (1,100+, sometimes up to 1,700). If I "kick" the gas pedal this usually knocks the idle back down but not to 750 - 800 where is should be.
I have thought about replacing the (I think it's called) idle air control valve (the big metal thing with the flappy gate inside) that sits atop the air intake above the driver's side headlight I want to replace this only if it's going to fix it.
While driving, I noticed that when I floor the gas pedal to go faster, the engine revs up and takes about a second or 2 until the car accelerates. i also noticed that if i let go of the gas pedal while the engine revs then the car doesn't go any faster, it just revs then goes back to normal. Whats going on?
View 3 RepliesDiagnosing the following behavior with a '99 4Runner.
A couple months ago it was hard to start and the battery wasn't fully charging. It cranked but not very strongly and took a few times to turn over. The battery was old so I figured it was bad and replaced it.
Everything was fine for a couple weeks then it started doing nothing every other time I'd turn the key to start. All the dash lights and everything would come on but when I turned the key to start, it wouldn't even click, nothing. When it would crank, it started up fine. After a while it started taking 5-6 attempts to engage the starter and eventually like 20-30 and then wouldn't start at all.
I check the battery with a MM and it was reading 3.5v! I pulled the leads off and the voltage started to rise, after about an hour it was up to 8v. But when I put the cables on it immediately drops back to 3.5v. I pulled the fuses one by one, reconnecting the batt cables in between to see if I could isolate the circuit that was causing the drop but no luck. There were a few fuses that were bolted in that I couldn't get out though.
Anyway, there must be something that ties all this behavior together, maybe a bad relay or something?
Just bought this van used last fall. Had an occasion, a few months ago, to brake quite hard (to avoid hitting a bird in the road--yeah, I know...) and felt a clattering vibration/noise in my brake pedal. It's happened a few times since then. Is this a problem that needs to be looked at or a normal reaction to quick, hard braking? (Braking noise in 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan)
View 9 RepliesThis applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
View 14 RepliesMy transmission up shifts fine for the first couple of gears, but as I get to the last gear (I think it is the last gear), my transmission takes a while to up-shift. I am at 3000 RPM before it up-shifts then goes down to 2000 RPM on the next gear. Is there any fix that will not require a new tranny?
View 4 RepliesI own a 2003 Toyota Camry SE four cylinder sedan with only 46,000 miles. The car has four wheel disc brakes and an anti-skid braking system. About a year ago, I started to notice that there was excessive travel in the brake pedal. That is, the pedal will travel an excessive distance before there is any braking action. I have tried to correct the problem by pumping the brakes as I back out of my driveway to engage the self-adjusting mechanism; doesn't work. I have also gotten in the habit now of pumping the brake pedal; that works a little, but it's not a solution. Being an old chap who always maintained my car myself, and diagnosed and repaired most problems, I concluded that the problem was the master cylinder because when stopped at a light, the brake pedal would continue to go down. Incidentally, there has been no loss of brake fluid since I bought the car new in 2003. Recently, I had the master cylinder replaced and learned that I'm not as car-smart as I thought. There is no improvement in the pedal travel problem.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 corolla ce with 51k miles I bought recently.
While going to work this morning, I had to hard brake from 50mph. The car slid several feet but came to a safe stop.
Now when I'm driving, my right wheel is clicking....like a light clicking noise. Could hard braking have damaged the wheel bearing or cv joint?
I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 with 189K on it and noticed that it takes several seconds (4 to 5 seconds) of cranking before the car starts. When the car was newer, it used to crank quicker.
Here is what I have done so far:
- Changed all spark plugs @ dealer using iridium type
- Always used Premium Fuel (Petro Canada 91 grade)
- Put in a bottle of injector cleaner (Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner)
- Throttle Body has been cleaned about 20K ago
- Oil changes are Mobil 1 5W30 year round with Denso Filter
- Battery was replaced last year with an Optima Red Top and was tested a few months back to be in excellent working order.
What I have observed is that when the weather is VERY cold outside (i.e. -20), it seems to crank quicker, but if I keep my car parked in my garage overnight and start it, it takes several seconds. I have never had the car not start on me so that's a good thing.
I have owned this 01 LS with a V8 for about a year now and have had it to the dealer at least 6 times. After bringing the car in twice, the dealer finally found that there was a problem with the fuel injector. 3 months later the problem came back - basically the car takes 3-6 seconds of cranking before it starts (from a cold start of more than 2 hours). The last 3 times I have had it in the dealer has reprogrammed the computer and thought it was fixed - Wrong! After this last time, the dealer said they could not find a problem and felt they were doing all they could - in fact, they told me to switch to a lower octane gas and see if that works.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry LE V6 (made in Japan) with 195,000 KM on it and noticed that the car would crank for several seconds before it catches and starts. I have replaced the air filter, changed the spark plugs at 190K, use premium fuel and this is still happening. I have not replaced the spark plug wires as I was told at the time that it was not necessary. I notice that this seems to happen when my car is in the garage at temps above 0 degrees Celsius. When my vehicle is parked outside in a cold winter day, it seems to start quicker.
View 2 RepliesFor over a year, I've been experience starting problems with my 2008 Lexus es350.
About every 3 starts or so, it takes my car 3 seconds are so of turning over before the car actually starts. So, 2 out of 3 starts are perfect.
I recently replace my stock batter for the first time (43,000) miles after my car battery died after being parked for only two hours... i thought this might solve the problem, but it hasn't.
Why it is taking my car so long to turn over every couple of starts?
My truck has a short in it. I've noticed this delay for the past few months. Takes a few seconds when I'm cranking it, then it finally starts. Could it be the alternator that I need replaced? It's not the battery, cause I'm getting plenty of juice.
View 1 RepliesIt takes almost 10 seconds for the AC to come on in my PIP when I first start the car. Is this normal?
Sometimes, if the AC has just been running, it will come back on in just 2-3 seconds.