Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Jump Starts - Alternator / Battery?
May 21, 2012
My X keeps needing to be jumped and after being jumped it runs like a top as usual. Took it to Autozone and had them hookup their little portable doohikie and told me the battery is fine but the alternator should be pushing out 14a and it's only pushing 13? Didn't realize 1aI made that big of difference but whatever. I am taking the alternator off in a few minutes and I'm gonna have it bench tested to confirm the output.
Is there a heavier duty alt that I can get? I will be pulling an RV before too long so I'd like to get one that's gonna last. Btw, 2000 excursion limited v10 gas 6.8...
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I have a dead battery while trying to jump; my car I blew my alternator fuse. I had a friend try to change the fuse but he was unable to get all of the fuse.How can I get all the fuse out to put a new fuse in?
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 and the battery keeps dying. We do not use the truck a lot and it sometimes sits outside for 2-4 weeks without being used. If it sits that long, it might be completely dead, but starts up easily with a jump and then works fine for a while. The battery is a 650 amp Motocraft w prorated replacement from 37-100 mo. The local Ford dealer has checked it several times in the past 2 yr and said it is fine, and that if the truck sits for a couple of weeks the battery will die. Is that right? I am not a car moron, nor am I an expert, but I am concerned that they are missing a small draw somewhere in the system. Should I be concerned about a draw or is this just something that happens to batteries as they get older?
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My battery went dead so I replaced with new. This did not fix the problem so I replaced the alternator. It's working now but the battery light stays on. I think I still have a problem.
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Multi information display is not working. Also the 12v battery keeps losing power requiring jump starts.
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I have a 2000 excursion with the 7.3 in it. When I turn the key it wont crank over but i can jump the selonoid and it will fire right up. I replaced the selonoid and I don't know what else it could be???
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I have a 2000 excursion that stopped charging. The battery light is on . I replaced the alternator but it still will not charge. I have checked all the fuses. Not sure where to go from here...
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A co worker gave me an 1986 F-150 5.0 302 with 225,000 miles that he had sitting for 1 year in driveway. He never put the new alternator in that he bought. I towed it to my house and put the alt. in jumped the battery and it started but idle was horrible. turned the idle screw to get bad gas burned off.
Whenever I shut it off or it died from idle I would have to jump it. So, I put new 56-3 battery new relay and it started right up. Drove it down the road to test drive, the truck would want to fowl out whenever I stepped on gas peddle hard. I put Sea Foam and Lucas in the tank and 20.00 premium on top. but now the truck will not turn over since it was shut off unless i jump it but needs jumping all the time. thought it was the starter so, replaced that and still tick, tick, tick, tick when trying to start won't turn over. Its going to start to make me drink, what I can replace now or have checked? maybe its the Alternator he gave me with the truck?
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I currently own a 2000 F350 Lariat 7.3 4x4 and a 2001 Excursion Limited V10 4x4. The Excursion has a vibration that starts around 60 mph. What I've done so far...Replaced all 4 brakes (rotors and pads)..
Replaced wheels and tires (I bought new ones for my f350 and put the ones that came off the f350 on the excursion, so I know they were balanced and smooth)
Replaced the front axle (I put a dana 60 on my f350, so I put the front axle that came off the f350 on the excursion... again, I knew it was in good shape with good ball joints, tie rods, etc.)
Had the front end aligned
Finally, today, I replaced the ujoint on the rear driveshaft at the pinion (I discovered the old one was broken).
Through all these changes, the vibration has changed by degree but never gone away completely. Today, I had a bit of a revelation, and would like any input.
It has come to my attention that some excursions were given a double cardan rear driveshaft, mine included, and some had what I would call a standard driveshaft (one ujoint on each end). From what I know, with a standard driveshaft, the pinion should be angled parallel to the transfer case output shaft. However, on a double cardan driveshaft, the pinion should be angled "in-line" with the driveshaft. I measured mine with a digital level and the pinion is angled parallel to the transfer case output shaft.
My only two possible conclusions are 1) all the rear axles that went into the excursions were set up the same way, so the excursions that got a double cardan rear driveshaft are "wrong" or 2) at some point in my truck's history the driveshaft was changed but the pinion was never corrected. Need info on how the pinion is angled?
So finally, my question is, can re-angling the pinion with wedges or by cutting and re-welding the perches to get rid of vibration? Am I on the right track?
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I just recently bought a 2000 excursion 7.3 diesel. I'm new to diesel but learning. So far I've installed a new drop in filter in my airbox. Cut out the plastic behind the grill for cold ram air into the intake. I've done the FPR mod and cleaned out the exhaust back pressure tube. And last but not least I installed an Edge Evolution 2 programmer running stage 3 with timing advanced 2 degrees. Nothing else to the custom settings other than what stage 3 provided. Here is my problem. On the freeway at 65-75mph cruising with the cruise control on, the truck starts to shudder. I suspect my TC lockup is going out but not sure. So I wanted to test it buy installing a manual lockup switch. So I installed the switch running a wire from the plug going into the transmission on the purple with yellow wire using a saddle tap to a switch to part of the dash frame under the dash. Went to test out the switch and nothing happened.
As y'all and other forum's have described I should feel something and the od light should start flashing. I get nothing. Tried testing the switch and my ground source and everything tests out fine. Tested the saddle tap. Its fine. Tested with the switch on and using a meter to check ohms at the tap to the frame of the truck I'm getting 8ohms. I would think there shouldn't be any resistance because its a dead short but that's what I'm getting. Am I connected to the right spot on the transmission or should I move the tap to the plug under the brake master cylinder. Could my TC lockup solenoid be going out and that's what's causing the shudder and why the manual switch doesn't work.
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This hot blond was stranded at the store's parking lot. Her VW had a dead battery I jump started it for her. When I connected the cables, my alternator was whining very loud.
Did I damage my alternator or did I put too much load on it? When I heard the whine, I pressed the accelerator then told her to start her car. Success but I am worried I shortened the life of the alternator.
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2002 Ford Focus SE with 130k miles on it. For the past 4 months the battery light flashes randomly while driving. The flashing and frequency of flashing doesn't seem related to anything I can tell including temperature, length of time the car is running, speed or any variable. Seems like it should be an alternator, but that was replaced less than an year ago and it also has a new battery. The alternator always checks out fine at the mechanic and it will never flash for the mechanic. It went 1 month with no flashing and suddenly it will now flash maybe 20 times in a 5 mile drive. Yesterday it just died at a stoplight with no warning, but then after shutting everything off it started just fine and the battery light didn't turn on for the 2 miles to home.
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Rookie move. The battery went dead on the excursion so I nabbed one out of my Focus so I could just move the beast to another parking spot. Long story short, the battery's design was exactly the same, aside from the polarity on the posts. I didn't check and now I'm not getting a response from the vehicle at all. No lights, no clicks, nothing.
I'm assuming I blew a fuse, and possibly fried the PCM. Where to start? I'm not sure which fuse I'm looking for, as none of the diagrams have a "main fuse" listed.
The details: 2000 Excursion, V10 6.8.
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2000 Ford Excursion XLT 4x4 V10 ... Part store shows I need a 3G alternator ... Current alternator put on by PO in 2013/14 s a Duralast DL7764 from Autozone. Tag is still on it.
My battery light is coming on for a few seconds and going off for several hours before it comes on again. Connections are good....crappy Autozone alternators.
But for some reason my motor has a 6G alternator. All parts stores say I need a 3G. Did Ford put 6G'S in all excursions, or do I have a 2004+ motor in my 2000 Ex? Or will a 6G fit where a 3G is supposed to be? All connections look factory including electrical hook ups.
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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I have a 2000 Ford Excursion XLT 2WD with just over 155,000 miles on it, for awhile now My battery light has been on and off or it'll flicker and some times it will even stay solid. I checked the batteries and the alternator a while ago and got good readings from them. I just thought it was a code that never got reset. Well this morning I was driving it and I noticed that when I brought the RPMs over 3,000 the battery gauge would go up to 18 volts and the battery stayed on until the RPMs went back down past 3,000. It did this all morning until I got home and just for kicks I put it in park and revved the engine up to 3,000 RPMs, when I did nothing happened. I tried looking online for an answer and I called a few mechanic shops who all said it was my alternator. I want to make sure that it is in fact the alternator....
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So I have a 2000 6.8l V10 that I recently swapped the engine on (reman). While I was doing that, I decide to do some LED upgrades. I swapped out the turn signals, side marker lights, and headlights with LEDs. I added some LED fog lights, and I have a Rigid light bar.
I replaced pretty much everything on attached to the engine aside from the alternator (it didn't give me any problems, so I figured it was good).
When the truck is running with the lights off, there are 6 LED strips running as DRLs, when the lights are switched on, the side marker, turn signal and headlights turn on. When I switch to high beams, my fogs turn on. The light bar is on its own switch.
During the day with the headlights off, I dont notice the battery/charging system indicator light turn on at all. At night, when I flip the headlights on, I've noticed that it sporadically and randomly flash. The flashing indicator light does not appear to be associated with bumps or anything.
It does not seem to matter if I have just the DRL/low beams on, DRL/high beams+fogs, or DRL/high beams+fogs + light bar on. The indicator light comes and goes with the same random consistency regardless of how much power I am sucking from the alternator/battery. The RPM's of the engine also appear to have no effect on when/how often the indicator light comes on...
I drove for over an hour last night, and the voltage gauge never changed, so the battery does not *seem* to be draining (~1 year old Optima yellow). I added an extra ground wire going from the battery to the engine about a year ago (long before this LED upgrade) to ensure a good ground, so I dont *think* the wires are the issue. Is my alternator suddenly going bad? Any higher output ones I could replace it with? Is it a simple fix that does not require a new alternator?
Here are some pics of the lights:
(This was before the fog light install)
These lights only come on when the truck is in reverse:
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Truck was dead- 2001 F250 V10... Has a starter relay (solinoid) behind battery... put a new relay in there- no go- cleaner terminals... then I put key in start and shorted the 2 terminals in the relay and she cranked right up. That would mean the starter is still good correct?? something in the ignition system?
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I have a 1984 BMW 318i. When it gets to 3.5-4K rpm, it starts to miss and the tachometer starts to jump. What's wrong with it?
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I have a 99 V6 original owner with 177,000 miles. The car has all the usual work done for its age and miles with one cam tensioner and associate seals, gaskets, water pump, etc.... Getting some burn oil smell and believe the other tensioner is starting to leak but it's not bad. Replacement of the cracked AC coil was difficult...
Lately when the car is in higher gears, light load, and RMPs around 1,400 to 1,800, the car starts to flutter and the rmps jump up and down a couple of hundred and you feel the car lurch a bit. It's not harsh. Feels like a miss but you don't feel much engine jump or knock. Under hard acceleration, the RMPs are smooth and no lurching.
When I back off down to 1,400 or 1,500 and accelerate easy, the problem returns. Sometimes I feel it up at 3,000 but not as pronounced. The car is not throwing codes.
All ignition components are fresh in the last year with wires, pugs, etc... I still need to get this car to 250K...
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I just ordered a ford center jump seat and was looking for some type of instructions for removing the arm rests on the captions chairs. I have herd of others just cutting them off, but was looking for a way to salvage them in case I cant live without all my cup holders.
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