Truck was dead- 2001 F250 V10... Has a starter relay (solinoid) behind battery... put a new relay in there- no go- cleaner terminals... then I put key in start and shorted the 2 terminals in the relay and she cranked right up. That would mean the starter is still good correct?? something in the ignition system?
View 1 RepliesI have a 01 Ford excursion 7.3 auto and it will not start unless you jump the starter relay, I have replaced the starter, starter relay and swapped out batteries from my 2000 F250 auto, not sure what to do and this is my daily driver. Not sure if this matters but just had the transmission rebuilt. I have tried searching other threads but still not finding what I need. Once it starts it runs and drives. When you turn the key you hear a click like a relay is engaging and all of the lights and gauges work it just won't start with the key.
View 2 RepliesI was getting ready to run a fused wire from the battery to the rear of the truck to power my bed lights. Then I read where some owners have jumped the trailer charge relay socket to provide constant 12v at the 7-pin trailer plug.
I never keep my trailer cord connected to the truck when camping so the chances of the trailer draining the battery are nil.I don't want powering the bed lights from other sources as I have decided I want 12v to bed light switch always available.
Looking for where the fuel pump relay is 2001 f 250 SD reg cab 2 wd. Won't Start On pump gas , starting fluid yes
View 1 RepliesI see several threads regarding engines that wont start for no apparent reason. My reason was a failed fuel pump relay. This sucker is hidden in the dash below and to the left of the radio. I got to it by taking out the ash tray. There are three relays under the cover. The upper left is the fuel pump relay. The one to the right is the turn signal relay. I don't know what the bottom left is for.
View 3 RepliesI have the gas 5.4l in my 01 F250 Super Duty. I had to change out the leaking Heater hose before I could attack this other issue. The truck starts when it feels like it. I changed the fuel filter and it started fine. Then the next day it wouldn't. Later it would. However each time it does start it dies when throttled up. I am down to thinking it is the fuel pump. My question is, because changing the pump sucks about as bad as changing the heater hose. Can I install an inline fuel pump and deal with the sump pump in the tank later? Are there any Cons to doing this?
View 5 RepliesJust picked up my F250 a few days ago and it's been great up until yesterday when I hopped in to start her up and nothing. It's a brand new battery and all lights worked, but the dash was dead. I attempted in vain for an hour or so to diagnose as to why this was happening and just happened to open the door with the key in the ignition and hit the door lock button....all of a sudden the truck starts beeping and the message on the dash said "to disable alarm start vehicle". I turned the key, the dash lighted up and away I went. What I may have done to cause this or has it happened to you? I'm thinking it's something with the key fob but not sure.
View 6 Replies1999 f-250 super duty... okay, here is what i have going on. basically no power to the fuel pump. For the last 2 weeks the fuel pump relay and 1 of the relays behind the radio (next to the blue relay) would chatter and the truck would die. Wait about 5 minutes and turn the key on and if the chatter was gone then it would fire up and run... So NOW no chatter on either relay and not cranking up. - motor turns over just fine- just no power to fuel pump. So I changed out the relay- both behind the radio and the one under the hood. still chatters and no start. i have checked the Inertia switch and 12 volts there... Here is my question, when i turn the ignition on, i have no power to the base of the Fuel Pump Relay.... Where does the power come from to power the relay???
View 13 Replies1999 ford F250 SD V10 ... When this goes on the truck misfires and tries to die. Usually I can key the ignition in nuetral and the clicking stops and the truck starts and runs better....
View 6 RepliesMy '01 f250 7.3 has gotten hard to start. It seems to maybe be due to cooler weather, but not always. I have been told that there is some sort of valve in the fuel tank that could possibly cause this when the fuel gets around a 1/4 tank or so. But, it's doing it at any fuel level. But it doesn't do it all the time. I do notice it more in cooler weather. Anyway, when I try to crank it, I'll let the "wait to start" light go off and then wait a bit more. I'll turn it over and it almost as if the batteries are weak.
I'll stop and give it a few seconds and turn it again and it will normally start. But sometimes I'll do this 5 or 6 times and it will finally fire. But the more I have to try, it's like fuel builds in the cylinders and it smoke like a coal train for a minute or so. Almost like gas motor that has been flooded. But the smoke burns off and it runs like a top. I was thinking the batteries may be weak , but sometimes the starter will spin the motor with no trouble at all. I'm at a loss. Is it possible for fuel to drain from the system causing it to have to reprime itself? Here lately the smoking has me concerned even though it clears up.
I have a 2003 f350 v-10 drove it yesterday to get fuel, went to start it after fueling. No start, no lights dash was gauges were acting odd, and clicking under dash from behind fuse box. did get it to start after a while, put my foot on brake to go into drive, never made it ... truck died I do have remote start system thought it was that with the brake pedal issue. disconnected complete system. no change
Had it towed, home now no nothing, connect battery and just clicking from under dash no start ? not battery, wont even jump
I am trying to diagnose my fuel system, but I cant seem to find the fuel pump relay. My truck is an 2004 f250 crew cab work truck with 5.4L. it seems that the relay can be mounted anywhere from behind the radio or in the engine compartment as well as built in to the fuse box under the steering wheel.
View 14 RepliesThe #8 fuse under the hood was blowing on my '00 F-250 every time I turned on the healights meaning I would lose power to my park lights. The brown wire coming from the back of the headlight switch showed a dead short to ground that I traced to somewhere between the switch and the firewall.
Anyway, I got tired of trying to pinpoint the ground fault, so I cut the brown wires at the back of the switch and under the hood at the top bolt-on electrical plug and replaced the bad section with a new wire. It works fine now with the only exception being I do not get the park light flash when I hit the remote lock button the second time. I do still get the horn chirp.
My Haynes manual indicates there should be a relay box with a Park Lamp relay, Driver Unlock relay, All Lock Relay, and All Unlock relay. The park light relay looks like it sends the blip of power to the park light circuit. Where this relay box is? I'd like to splice into the brown wir coming out of it to restore the light flash when I lock the truck since sometimes it's too noisy to hear the horn.
My 2001 F250 will not start (clicks). I verified its not the battery and even tried to jump start it. I have never replaced a starter- but before I do that I read where there is another solenoid under the hood somewhere. I always thought there was just the one on the starter itself.
Two questions:
1. where is that other solenoid located and should I replace that first?
2. How difficult is it to replace the starter? I am pretty handy.
The issue is that I cannot get it towed easily - I just need to get it started at least once since my plow is still installed and it's hooked up to a trailer..
2001 PSD ... Had speedometer jump 20 km's (12mph) while stopped with foot on the brake? This has been happening on my 2001 PSD intermittently for the last couple months.
View 1 Replies2004 F250 SuperDuty 6.0L Diesel. The turn signal (left or right), it would make a buzzing noise, so I located the relay under the steering wheel (by putting my hand on it and seeing which one was buzzing) and replaced it, I bought a replacement at Schucks, then the buzzing noise went away, and the clicking noise is back.
But.... I don't see the turn signal lights in the dashboard and the turn lights are not working, I checked, what could be the problem ? I read the owners manual, in the fuse box under the steering wheel, fuze #18 is used for turn lights, but it is not blown.
Its it true, that the fuel pump relay is hid in the fuse and relay box, and non serviceable ?
View 6 RepliesI changed the IAC valve 2 months ago because my truck kept stalling when idling down on a cold start and that fixed the problem. A few days days ago when starting it started revving to 2 - 3 K and won't IDLE down now? I changed the IAC again and that didn't work. What else should I be looking at to stop it from revving so high?
2001 F250 5.4 111,000 miles super duty.
I have a 2001 F-250 XLT 4x4 with V10. Truck will not start. No fuel pressure. My Haynes manual does not show ignition or fuel delivery wiring. I have found the relay box behind the radio/dash. I need a wiring diagram and info on which relay is the fuel pump relay. Want to know so I can jump relay to see if fuel pump is okay.
Truck had sat for a few weeks being ran very little, so had to jump start yesterday. Ran for about 15 min, the shut off, re-started and ran for 30 min. Truck sat for about 1.5 hours then would not start. Charged battery overnight and it is 100%.
Recently got a 2003 f 250 6.0 that has had a little work done on it. Absolutely love it with 1 exception. When I turn on the ac or heat It blows a 10 amp fuse that goes to the blower relay. It was occasionally now it's all the time.Blower ok, fan speed resistor ok. What or where to look.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford F-250 with the gas v-10. Yesterday it started just fine as always. Today I get into it and it starts to turn over just fine then starts to make a grinding sound and the truck won't start. I have had a fuel issue in the mornings with once it started you had to barely press the gass to keep it running. But never makes a funny sound and always runs fine. This only last for a couple of min and then it runs fine for the rest of the day. The grinding is not the starter. I took it off and had it checked and it was fine.
The truck had been using oil. When I checked the oil level it was low but it was still on the stick. "I know a motor needs oil to run smooth but it's my dads truck and well let's just say he is not the best on maintenance". Also I smelled the oil and it does have a gas smell to it. So it definitely does have some gas in the oil. I tried to light the dipstick with a lighter and it wouldn't light. So not sure how much gas is in it but that's what I did.
So the question is, would something just in mid crank go bad and then not let the motor crank. Truck made no weird noises before this so I find it hard to believe the barrings just went out in mid crank and now it is shot.
Also I just checked compression on front cylinders.
Driver side read 75lbs
passenger side read 100lbs