Ford Excursion :: 2000 V10 - Sway Bar Link Rattles Constantly
Feb 28, 2017
I recently replaced Sway Bar Links on my 2000 X (V10, 4x4, 155k). They were only a year and half old but the bushings had gave way. Mechanic went with an OEM part with a new design from NAPA. This new design added grease fittings. Now the truck rattles constantly and seems to have more sway. Shocks are probably originals, but I don't think they are the main cause. I can tell the rattle is coming through the frame. All my suspension is stock.
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I am having difficulty with my front sway bar downlinks, they keep coming loose. I have recently replaced them for the same reason with some O'Reilly Auto Parts house brands, they seemed alright when compared to the Motorcraft replacements, they even had grease fittings which was unusual for some of the others I have seen. I have torqued them down, I have tried red locktite, the only thing I have not tried is to weld them. It is only the lower nut which keeps coming loose.
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My Ex has a 4-inck Sky Jacker lift and I need to replace one of the sway bar end link bushing. Is the bushing size same as the stock ones? Need to know so I can order the right ones. What is the Energy Suspension part#....
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Working on my 2000 Excursion, 7.3, 4x4. Replacing front sway bar link arms and sway bar bushings. I got the driver side arm and the sway bar bushings done and have run into a problem removing the passenger side link arm. When removing the top connection bolt there's not enough clearance when extracting. I've gotten it loose, but as I go to pull it off, it butts up against the bell housing with about an inch of bolt left to clear the frame.
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We all know the sway bar end link problems in the early superdutys. Several years ago I installed energy suspension bushings and thought the problems were gone. Lately it started clunking again. I tightened the bolts with a breaker bar and it worked. but now it making noise again. I purchased a set of mevotech end links. Upon installation I found the problem.
Over the years of clunking the bolt hole on the upper driver side is no longer round. It has become oval shaped. I read a couple threads on here about this problem. I can't drill them out as the mevotechs have studs not bolts. Can I get the mounting bracket that bolts to the frame. Its a triangle shaped piece that the end link stud goes through. I have tried searching for it online to no avail. Whats it called?
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This is my sway bar and drag link look like with the wheel turned all the way to the right. When I took these pictures, I had put the right tire on the curb too see what it was going too look like. However. Even with all wheels on level ground. It still is running very close. When the steering is straight, I have maybe 1" to 1.5" clearance between the 2. My truck does have a readylift 2.5" level kit on it. Running like this stock or leveled? Should I look around for longer sway bar links?
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Can the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
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Car: 02 Passat GLX 4motion V6 AWD
I'm in process of replacing the rear strut and I can't remove the way bar link bolt out. It is really tight into the inner rubber and it won't buzz. The bolt sits in a way that I can't use a hammer.
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2004 F-250 140k 4wd 6.0. Front end had noise, standard sway bar link knock. I disconnected the sway bar on the drivers side and drove it around. Smooth and noise free. Determined new links were needed, Installed new links and now even more noise. Disconnect them and no noise again. What am i missing? Bushings look good on the axle. Is the pressure from the sway bar putting strain on another wore part?
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2008 ES 350 sway bar replace, confirmed diagnose of metal thump, like dead blow metal to metal, mostly bumps, rough roads. etc, it wasnt' a vibration, but finally moved the sway bar link up and down on jack stands and could see and hear the top joint of the sway bar link moving.
It wasnt a bad job, but if your in the Rust Belt, the nuts aren't happy coming off, and I highly recommend a air saw to ease the pain. If you dont have a saw, and your in the Rust Belt make sure you clean the heck outta the rust in the threads, cause it just jams the works as your easing the nut off the stud.
Need 17mm wrench (i used box end rachet) and 6mm allen , its got that stupid set up off the allen slot in the end of the stud to steady that, and they you gotta work the bolt off at the same time, not a one hand operation.
Start by spraying the snot outta the 17mm nut and stud with Blaster, Hold onto the allen key wrench and I whacked the rachet with a dead blow hammer and was able to get it to bust loose, now you just have to ease the nut off with whatever it'll give you. After I got some room for the air saw blade, I just whacked it with the saw.
Careful if you just start with a cut off operation into the rubber boot of the stud, there is a shoulder that wont allow it to just pull thru, you have to cut the stud on the nut side of the sway bar in order for it to pull thru.
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Chasing a noise in the front, seems to be more on the passenger side, and I think I have it narrowed down to the link ends or subframe. I have ST coil overs, came on the car, and already did the 034 mounts and bearings to solve another noise but this one is different. The links are original and I saw some performance ones that are a bit shorter for a slightly lowered car. Should it have shorter ones due to the coil overs?
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I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
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I have a new-to-me 2001 Ex V10 4x4 w/ 132k. I'd say it's 85% and I'm slowly working to get it to 100%. Right now, I'm tackling the low hanging fruit. I'm trying to track down the front end clunks and creaks.
I cinched down on the driver side sway bar end link and it took out some of the clunk. I traced the remainder of the clunk to the drag link which I can rotate about 20-30 degrees by hand. Both grease boots are shot.
New rotors and pads get here Monday. While I change them, I'll be working the front end issues as well. I went ahead and bought the Energy Suspension sway bar bushing kit and will swap them all out. I also plan on replacing the drag link ends too.
My question is: do I need to replace my tie rod ends? The grease boots have definitely leaked but I can't detect any slop like the drag link. If the grease is leaking all over is that a sign that they need replacing?
I've never done steering work before but it looks straight forward. Any tips for a novice? Anything I should be aware of before I start? While I'm down there, is there anything else I should change while the steering is apart?
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I recently replaced my drag link which was loose and clunking around. I noticed my steering wheel is pointed at 11 while driving straight now. I'm not sure if it was like that before, the vehicle was new to me when I did most of the initial work.
It looks to me like I should be able to just adjust the drag link turnbuckle to change the steering wheel position but I'm not sure. Is that okay to do?
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I've been having the loud clunk under the drivers side floor, that many others have as well. Did many hours of research and replaced the sway bar end links. Napa only had the left side in stock so I did it first last weekend and did the right side this weekend. One thing I noticed when doing the right side was the hole in the frame was all wallowed out. Drilled out the bushing in the upper end link and used a bigger bolt to fill the gap up. went for a drive and the clunk was way worse than it ever was still on the left side. So I took off the left one and went for a drive. Sure enough no clunk, the left one was wallowed out as well. So I did the same thing on that side and the evil clunk is finally gone. Just thought I would throw that out that if have a clunk after replacing the end links, Check the upper holes.
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I've installed a iPod adapter to my Ex's factory 6CD head unit..but I'm thinking I might like to upgrade to one of the Andriod units.
I have seen that there are some that "clip in" like the factory radio...but I'm also wanting to avoid having to trim the dash bezel.
So...is there one may that will slip in from the front like.a factory unit?
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After 2 months my hellwig sway bar is starting to make a lot of noise I've checked to make sure everything is still tight and it is. It does it on sharp corners and braking ....
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I plan on replacing as I have a clunk happening. Thought I'd try here first.
Is there a brand that's better? 1Aauto has OEM. Is there a brand that's better or makes a difference?
Or is a front sway bar end link a front sway bar end link?
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I'm going to be installing an 8" lift on my excursion and I would like to add a rear sway bar.
I cannot find any info on the hellwig if it works with lifted excursions or if I need extended links, which I also cannot find for an 8" lift
I found front sway bar end links for 8" lift but the rear is really frustrating me
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What is the correct length of the front sway bar end links. I need that info to order replacements for my 04 X EB 6.0 4x4. I just don't want to wait another day.
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My 04 6.0 Limited and both front and rear sway bars. The front links keep wearing out after 3-4000 miles. But, I saw someone in here put F350 Sway Bars in their Excursion? REALLY?? Is this right or is this snake oil? Is their another way to fix the front links so they don't wear out so quickly??
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