Car: 02 Passat GLX 4motion V6 AWD
I'm in process of replacing the rear strut and I can't remove the way bar link bolt out. It is really tight into the inner rubber and it won't buzz. The bolt sits in a way that I can't use a hammer.
I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
I did change my motor mounts this weekend but when I tried to remove the sway bar,one of the nuts jammed on the bolt. Let me explain:The nut unscrewed well until the lasts mm, and then, the bolt head came loose, so it was spining freely with no way to remove it but cutting it, the bolt seems to be BUILT IN the alum. bracket that supports the engine mount. Question: can I change this bolt or is it really built in the bracket? I searched on ETKA but it just shows the nut and I can't find the bolt that I need.
View 1 RepliesI am having difficulty with my front sway bar downlinks, they keep coming loose. I have recently replaced them for the same reason with some O'Reilly Auto Parts house brands, they seemed alright when compared to the Motorcraft replacements, they even had grease fittings which was unusual for some of the others I have seen. I have torqued them down, I have tried red locktite, the only thing I have not tried is to weld them. It is only the lower nut which keeps coming loose.
View 9 RepliesMy Ex has a 4-inck Sky Jacker lift and I need to replace one of the sway bar end link bushing. Is the bushing size same as the stock ones? Need to know so I can order the right ones. What is the Energy Suspension part#....
View 1 RepliesFirst of all... do I need to remove both, the restraining bolt AND nut to remove the tie rod end... if yes, than this bolt seized, the nut is easy but even if I punch the bolt it wont move... ??
View 4 Replies2008 ES 350 sway bar replace, confirmed diagnose of metal thump, like dead blow metal to metal, mostly bumps, rough roads. etc, it wasnt' a vibration, but finally moved the sway bar link up and down on jack stands and could see and hear the top joint of the sway bar link moving.
It wasnt a bad job, but if your in the Rust Belt, the nuts aren't happy coming off, and I highly recommend a air saw to ease the pain. If you dont have a saw, and your in the Rust Belt make sure you clean the heck outta the rust in the threads, cause it just jams the works as your easing the nut off the stud.
Need 17mm wrench (i used box end rachet) and 6mm allen , its got that stupid set up off the allen slot in the end of the stud to steady that, and they you gotta work the bolt off at the same time, not a one hand operation.
Start by spraying the snot outta the 17mm nut and stud with Blaster, Hold onto the allen key wrench and I whacked the rachet with a dead blow hammer and was able to get it to bust loose, now you just have to ease the nut off with whatever it'll give you. After I got some room for the air saw blade, I just whacked it with the saw.
Careful if you just start with a cut off operation into the rubber boot of the stud, there is a shoulder that wont allow it to just pull thru, you have to cut the stud on the nut side of the sway bar in order for it to pull thru.
Chasing a noise in the front, seems to be more on the passenger side, and I think I have it narrowed down to the link ends or subframe. I have ST coil overs, came on the car, and already did the 034 mounts and bearings to solve another noise but this one is different. The links are original and I saw some performance ones that are a bit shorter for a slightly lowered car. Should it have shorter ones due to the coil overs?
View 5 RepliesI recently replaced Sway Bar Links on my 2000 X (V10, 4x4, 155k). They were only a year and half old but the bushings had gave way. Mechanic went with an OEM part with a new design from NAPA. This new design added grease fittings. Now the truck rattles constantly and seems to have more sway. Shocks are probably originals, but I don't think they are the main cause. I can tell the rattle is coming through the frame. All my suspension is stock.
View 14 RepliesWe all know the sway bar end link problems in the early superdutys. Several years ago I installed energy suspension bushings and thought the problems were gone. Lately it started clunking again. I tightened the bolts with a breaker bar and it worked. but now it making noise again. I purchased a set of mevotech end links. Upon installation I found the problem.
Over the years of clunking the bolt hole on the upper driver side is no longer round. It has become oval shaped. I read a couple threads on here about this problem. I can't drill them out as the mevotechs have studs not bolts. Can I get the mounting bracket that bolts to the frame. Its a triangle shaped piece that the end link stud goes through. I have tried searching for it online to no avail. Whats it called?
Working on my 2000 Excursion, 7.3, 4x4. Replacing front sway bar link arms and sway bar bushings. I got the driver side arm and the sway bar bushings done and have run into a problem removing the passenger side link arm. When removing the top connection bolt there's not enough clearance when extracting. I've gotten it loose, but as I go to pull it off, it butts up against the bell housing with about an inch of bolt left to clear the frame.
View 1 RepliesThis is my sway bar and drag link look like with the wheel turned all the way to the right. When I took these pictures, I had put the right tire on the curb too see what it was going too look like. However. Even with all wheels on level ground. It still is running very close. When the steering is straight, I have maybe 1" to 1.5" clearance between the 2. My truck does have a readylift 2.5" level kit on it. Running like this stock or leveled? Should I look around for longer sway bar links?
View 2 Replies2004 F-250 140k 4wd 6.0. Front end had noise, standard sway bar link knock. I disconnected the sway bar on the drivers side and drove it around. Smooth and noise free. Determined new links were needed, Installed new links and now even more noise. Disconnect them and no noise again. What am i missing? Bushings look good on the axle. Is the pressure from the sway bar putting strain on another wore part?
View 5 RepliesToday while driving I noticed a knocking when turning right or going over bumps in the road. I finally got to look under the truck and noticed that I'm missing the nut on the top side of the front stabilizer bar link bolt assembly on the passenger side.
It's a '99 Ranger XLT 4x4. Is this unsafe to drive? Is there a bushing on the top?
2002 ford explorer XLT. Here is a pic of the issue. have a broken right front sway bar link that has broken on the top however the bottom is still attached. I am unable to remove it. The top portion is gone and I am unable to grip what is left enough to loosen the bottom bolt. I have tried pliers as well as vice grips to keep it from spinning as I loosen the bottom bolt. Nothing has worked. The outside plastic OEM piece is stuck in there so well I am unable to break that loose either. I have sprayed PB blaster hoping to loosen things up but here I am writing this.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 2.4 lots of movement in front sway bar so trying to change bushing. Have it on a hoist and still can't get to the rear bolts to remove them have 3 different socket sets power ratchet and different spanner sets. Is there a DIY write up on this or pictures as I have not been able to find one?
View 3 RepliesI'm in the middle of replacing my VC gasket and while I was removing one of the hex bolts that holds it in it started sparking like crazy and turned the tip of the hex wrench glowing red. It didn't do this for the first bolt I took out. I also forgot to disconnect the battery before I started, could that have had anything to do with it?
View 6 RepliesI was in the process of changing out rotor and pads and my caliper bracket bolts while loosening them. The weird part is the bolt was turning in the process. The passenger side was easy as pie. The drivers side has me stuck. I have tried to drill out the broken bolt but noting is working. I don't know where to go from here. I have already purchased a new caliper and the bracket that goes with it. I just need to get this old one off so I can move on.
View 14 RepliesMy 1999 Ford F-150 failed inspection for frayed driver-side seatbelt (a common problem according several parts sellers). I have obtained a used shoulder harness assembly from a salvage yard but I have two questions:
What is size of the Torx bolts? (the star shaped ones) Looks like T55 but I don't have any to compare. I'll need to buy the socket and I assume a generic version will fit my ratchet.
The top part of the harness looks simple enough to remove but do you need a ratchet extension to remove the bottom bolt?
Went to change the plugs on an 02 f350, the bolt holding the plug wire boot on doesn't seem to fit any standard size socket. 7 is too big, 6 is too small. 1/4 is too small, 9/32 is too big.
View 14 RepliesCan the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
View 3 Replies