My V10 Excursion is giving me a little bit of a hard time. Once warm, it shuts off when I go from drive to reverse and when I have to brake hard. I cleaned the mass air flow sensor and replaced the idle air valve behind the throttle body. Not sure what else I can do.
View 14 Replies2004 accent had a drink spill on lower console, and think this is why it quit shifting? Disassembled, cleaned switches, unhooked battery, and car still has no reverse, shifts HARD into drive, will not move further.
View 5 RepliesFinished my flush, but now it won't shift to reverse unless i shift all the way to drive first. I thought it might be the hard shifting lever(i think something is up with the linkage), so i shifted to neutral, then reverse, but no success. It's still about 1/4-1/2" overfilled, I jsut ran to the hardware store and it's consistently still not shifting to reverse unless I take it all the way to drive first.
Really hoping I didn't break something in the process... I did do the shifting through the gears while it was flushing out the old coolant, could the valve be stuck due to that?
2011, 69,000 miles. My truck is experiencing very hard shifts from park to drive or park to reverse after a cold soak. It goes away once warmed up. I can't find any excessive driveline play and my transmission fluid level appears fine and in good condition.
The last repair done on my truck was around 7,000 miles ago and it was for a transmission fluid leak around the bell housing. They just replaced the seal between the torque converter and transmission.
I have a 2005 Ford F-150 with a 4.6L and auto tranny non 4 wheel drive. I have a hard time moving from park to drive and reverse. Is there a switch that lets you put it in gear once the brake pedal is depressed? Could that have gone bad?
View 5 RepliesI've seen this talked about before and it's happened to me before as well but now the tranny is leaking onto my Ypipe a couple times per week and it's giving me a hard time when I try to reverse. revs drop and it stalls if I don't give it enough gas.
So I know I have to change the seal but Ford is telling me the torque converter will need to be replaced but another transmission shop told me once the seal is changed and fluid level set appropriately I shouldn't have the reversing problem anymore?
Is this something I could attempt myself... looks almost like I'd have to move the exhaust to drop the tranny...
I have a 2000 Excursion 2wd 7.3 diesel. Drove it an hour yesterday and drove fine. Got home and decided to check the mail so I put it in park, left it running and got the mail. Jumped back in and put it in drive and it would not move. Tried 1 and 2 and would not move. Put it in reverse and it barely moved.
I turned the vehicle off and back on. Put it in drive and it drove fine like nothing happened. Same thing happened today. Turned it off and back on and it worked fine again. It happened a 3rd time when I stopped put it in park and back in drive but I was able to move in drive once I revved it up a bit.
As long as it is in drive like at a red light with your foot on the brake it is fine but if you put it in park and then go to drive it wont move unless you turn the vehicle off and back on. The fluid is full, red and no burnt smell. Maybe converter or ???? Is it ok to drive i this way???
Recently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD (~86k miles) has started to give a sort of hard thump when shifting from reverse into drive. It's fine going into any other gears and it shifts up and down normally. If I shift from reverse to neutral and then to drive it's fine.
I changed the transmission fluid when we first got the car at 40K miles with Hyundai Liquid Unobtanium SPiii fluid and again at 80k miles with Valvoline's SPiii offering. I just checked the transmission fluid level and it's within the normal range.
I can't tell if this is just drive-line slop or something else inside the tranny.
I bought a 2000 Excursion XLT, 4x4 with the 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel back in the fall. Here in Indiana the winter is getting bad, not exactly the best time to find out your 4x4 doesn't work! My 4x4 light comes on, but I can tell I'm not in four wheel drive. I've read that on the diesels that the fix could be a simple vacuum line.
View 14 RepliesI had a problem with the CV Axle and the Wheel Bearings. I replaced them already and I ran into another issue with the Wheel Studs and the Ball Joint, so I ended up replacing them as well. Yesterday I put everything back together after replacing all the parts mentioned before and I made sure everything was bolted down and tightened, and then the tire back on and lowered the jack. I started up my car expecting it to drive just fine and it was harder to get into gear than before and it wouldn't move in reverse, neutral, or drive. I called a Monroe Muffler around here and they told me that the CV Joint is probably not seated all the way inside the Transfer Case.
So later the same day I took everything back apart and made sure that I put the CV Joint back into the Transfer Case and I put the pin back in and made sure that both CV Axles would turn at the same time, which they did. I figured it was good so I put it all back together again and went through the same process as before, making sure everything was tightened down, all the bolts and nuts and pins were where they needed to be. Everything seemed to be good. I put the tire back on again, lowered the jack, started the car and attempted to drive it again. It still won't move. Why this is happening.
What is the source of the sound? Listen for the clunk b/w 3 and 4 seconds. I just dropped off my 2016 Super Duty 6.7 CC LB 4x2 at the dealership. I'm afraid that they will say the sound is a characteristic but I never had the sound on my 2011 Super Duty 6.7 CC LB 4x4. This sound happens when I go from drive to reverse or when using the exhaust brake when towing. The sound does not exist when the transmission is cold only when it is fully hot. It will also make this noise when climbing a really steep hill in first gear with fiver and the torque converter needs to slip a little.
As far as I can tell all of the u joints are tight and the axial support is tight I only have 2000 miles on my truck.
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I have the ESOF in a 2000 Excursion. I went to use 4X4 high and it would not give me 4 wheel drive. light on dash said 4X4 but no 4 wheel drive. I was in snow and only rear wheels spun. When switch is placed in 4X4 low I get 4 wheel drive.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Ex limited 7.3 4x4 with 196k on it. I bought a new snow plow two years ago and the first season, my transmission went out during a plow job. It had about 175k on the truck and I bought it with 155k with no real knowledge of any work being done to the transmission. So, I had a local transmission shop rebuild the transmission. The owner has done plenty of transmissions for my family in the past with no issues. Once I got the truck back, the reverse was lagging. I didn't recall it being that way, so after month or so, I took it back in to him. It was about 7 seconds to shift to reverse.
He replaced a solenoid and valve I believe. That supposedly fixed the issue and got it down to about 3-4 seconds. I drove it for a month or so then took it back when I was plowing and the reverse went out. He dropped it and went through it. He said the check ball went through the backing plate. He repaired and now I am driving it, but still not happy with the reverse lag and it's out of his warranty period. It's irritating day to day, but when plowing snow, it'll drive you mad! I'm no transmission guy, and not sure why it's all of a sudden different than it was prior to rebuild.
I recently purchased a 00 F250 psd 4x4. Other than doing all of the fixes it needs to make it ride better I have been questioning the trucks "get up and go" and the EXTREMELY sensitive skinny pedal. Truck seems to pull very hard and puts out some black smoke under hard throttle but nothing like the really tuned trucks I have seen. But the skinny is so sensitive its hard to drive under 40mph in 3rd and once it gets up to 55 or so its real sharp getting on and off the throttle. Trans shifts great, TC locks and unlocks, truck runs awesome IMO but just a bit harsh. Is there a way to find out if it was tuned prior to me buying it other than inspecting for a chip, or is this the way they are and I just have to get used to it more...?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2008 GS350. Been having brake clicking when I move from reverse to drive and lately been happening more when driving regularly. Brought it in to Lexus to get the complimentary 19-point inspection and they said I needed new brake pads and rotors. I did do a search and found it can be issues with front spindles, sway bar, bushings.
View 5 RepliesAs outlined in this thread: [URL] .....
I had a recent misfire issue. Unfortunately the dealer has been unable to find the source. Since the original misfire I can feel the car vibrating when I am in drive or reverse and am stopped with the brake applied (ex - waiting at a stop light). It goes away when I drive and when I am in neutral. I realize there is SOME vibration noticeable in gear, possibly because of the way the engine is mounted. However, this seems different.
The tach stays at 750 rpm in idle (it may fluctuate a TINY bit but never goes over 800 at idle) as always. The vibration feels much like a vibration one would feel if a cell phone or pager were left on vibrate. This doesn't seem to be a rough idle where the car is "jittery" or "jerks", and, as mentioned, the rpm doesn't change.
I would think a bad coilpack or plug (plugs changed at 40K, Im now at 45k) would cause a misfire, and a CEL. I've looked into a throttle body cleaning and will do this, but I would think that would cause a rough idle as well. My understanding is that a MAF problem would be similar.
The only thing I can think of is a motor or tranny mount issue, but the car only has 45k miles and this problem was non existent until the misfire. Im almost certain it isn't related to having the car lowered recently.
I have a 2000 Accent with about 150,000 miles on it. Recently I have noticed that when my car is sitting in an intersection, the car appears to idle roughly. I would't exactly say that the car is idling rough, cause it stays at a consistent RPM while in drive or park, but the engine gets louder and the steering wheel starts to vibrating. When I slightly step on the gas, the vibration goes away. Also, when I put my car in park or neutral, the car quiets down and the vibrating stops.
I was wondering if it could be the throttle position sensor, or maybe a broken motor mount, but I haven't had a chance to look into it it. I did replace the purge control valve last week, which slightly improved the vibrations.
My 2000 Eclipse has a really bad shaking problem when put into reverse or drive. Also, it bogs down really bad when accelerating when first put into gear. It is the gs model. And I've searched everywhere online for an answer. It shifts fine. The idle drops down to around 500 when put into gear.. Whats the problem..
View 19 RepliesVery strange problem for me especially since it's not my car, belongs to my sister. Only code that was set last month indicated the MAF so I cleaned it and the car ran fine. Started to hesitate up hills (steep uphill driveway) so I replaced the fuel filter yesterday and my sister said it drove just fine uphill. Now it stalls whenever put into drive, no codes set and none pending. It will idle in reverse but not in drive.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 V10 2WD Excursion with 104,000 miles. Last week it started shifting hard between first and second, but only when I am between 1500-2k RPMs. If I rev the engine higher, it shifts smooth. I checked the fluid and it is fine. I rarely tow anything except my little trailer to the dump every few months. I have a few questions:
1. Should I drop the pan and change the tranny filter?
2. Should/Can I check the rear diff fluid? (haven't noticed any leaks)
3. Could an inline flush and fill work?
4. I saw a post about a speed sensor in the rear diff. Could this be the issue?
I am a new driver and I made the following mistake twice.
Twice over the last month, after street parallel parking, engaging the foot parking brake, turning off and exiting the car, I noticed the spacing from the front and back car is a bit off so I went back inside the car to move the car slightly.
However, I forgot to disengage the parking brake first, so I put the car into R, and when the car did not move, I tapped on the accelerator. Only then did I remember to disengage the parking brake.
If I just tapped on the accelerator slightly, does it damage my car? I haven't noticed any problems yet, but I feel terrible about the screw ups.