I have recently developed a vibration between 30-45mph only when coasting. It smooths out when I tap the gas. The tires are less than a year old and I just put new manual lock out hubs hoping that would correct the issue, but it didn't. There's no clunk noise when in reverse or drive but occasionally when I get on the gas there's a short squeaking noise.
View 14 RepliesSo I'm used to the vibration coasting down from 110-115mph or so, I would mitigate it by applying light throttle. Recently it started coasting in the 75-80 range, then 70-80, and now it does it just plain cruising in that range as well. Nothing below 65, and nothing above 80 (coasting, cruising, or under load).
It's definitely a mechanical vibration, tires are fine, wheels are fine, wheel bearings are new... Thinking driveline u-joints? Don't have the money to throw parts at it unless they're the fix. I've consulted Christina's analysis chart and this is the only thing that makes sense so far.
No other symptoms anywhere else except those ranges. U-joints are, as far as I know, OEM originals. 276k miles seems like a hell of a life for them, especially with the abuse they've seen in the past 75,000.
I need to crawl under and give things a shake and wiggle, current condition is unknown. Left for a road trip to meet the wife's ex so he can have his time with his son, and the X was so bad at the aforementioned speeds that we turned around and swapped vehicles. It was worse this morning than it's ever been and I wasn't risking catastrophic failure with a zero emergency fund.
I currently own a 2000 F350 Lariat 7.3 4x4 and a 2001 Excursion Limited V10 4x4. The Excursion has a vibration that starts around 60 mph. What I've done so far...Replaced all 4 brakes (rotors and pads)..
Replaced wheels and tires (I bought new ones for my f350 and put the ones that came off the f350 on the excursion, so I know they were balanced and smooth)
Replaced the front axle (I put a dana 60 on my f350, so I put the front axle that came off the f350 on the excursion... again, I knew it was in good shape with good ball joints, tie rods, etc.)
Had the front end aligned
Finally, today, I replaced the ujoint on the rear driveshaft at the pinion (I discovered the old one was broken).
Through all these changes, the vibration has changed by degree but never gone away completely. Today, I had a bit of a revelation, and would like any input.
It has come to my attention that some excursions were given a double cardan rear driveshaft, mine included, and some had what I would call a standard driveshaft (one ujoint on each end). From what I know, with a standard driveshaft, the pinion should be angled parallel to the transfer case output shaft. However, on a double cardan driveshaft, the pinion should be angled "in-line" with the driveshaft. I measured mine with a digital level and the pinion is angled parallel to the transfer case output shaft.
My only two possible conclusions are 1) all the rear axles that went into the excursions were set up the same way, so the excursions that got a double cardan rear driveshaft are "wrong" or 2) at some point in my truck's history the driveshaft was changed but the pinion was never corrected. Need info on how the pinion is angled?
So finally, my question is, can re-angling the pinion with wedges or by cutting and re-welding the perches to get rid of vibration? Am I on the right track?
Driving on my way home, my Excursion began vibrating and bang the transfer case broke in half. question will a 2000 f250 tcase swap with mine?
View 6 RepliesI have recently found what sounds like a grinding/vibration issue that occurs between ~2100-~2300 RPM's in my truck. After some googling, I thought it may be the inspection plate being a bit bent/loose. I took the cover off and drove around and the noise still occurred.
Things I have noticed:
-Occurs between 1-2 and 2-3 (had trouble with the other gear changeovers as I just have slow backroads around me to test over my lunch break- can test further in the future)
-Occurs during acceleration and deceleration
-Starts at ~2100 and ends ~2300 RPM
Any thoughts for next steps to diagnose? Truck has ~160k on it and I don't really have many service records (purchased within the past 3k miles and problem just started occurring after this past weekend). Transmission fluid seems to be in decent condition.
Not sure if it would affect anything, but I just got back from my first trip with the Excursion where I actually needed to utilize the 4WD. There was much more aggressive terrain than what it is used to seeing on the pavement. Thought I should mention that as well.
V10, if that matters (I recall reading somewhere that '99 7.3s with the auto had documented torque converter issues that warranted a TSB)....
I have an odd sort of occasional vibration in my 2004 W12. I've read the sticky FAQ info posts concerning vibration, but I can't find a report with the same symptoms. Here are the observations:
1. When present, the vibration comes in very mildly at 50 MPH and peaks at 65 MPH, then dropping to barely discernible at 85 MPH.
2. The car shudders under the vibration, at worst resonating interior items and can be felt through the seat.
3. The vibration ceases IMMEDIATELY at any speed when coasting with the throttle backed off.
4. Curiously, the vibration seems to be much more noticeable after about an hour's drive. Before that, not so much.
5. VAG-COM does not indicate any misfires... I was sure I have a bad coil/plug... but the controller shows no such evidence. The throttle-on shake feels like a miss.
6. Brakes on/off makes no difference.
7. Road surface does not make any difference.
8. Near new (2K miles) Yokohama YK 580 all around, stock rims. If it's balance, I doubt it would decrease at higher speed (being sub-critical). Likewise for belt bubbles or other tire flaws.
Some posts have pointed to worn suspension link bushings causing mechanical resonance at certain speed ranges, perhaps aggravated by engine torque on the mounts, so I'm leaning in that direction (bushing replacements) if nothing else comes to light.
Symptom: A vibration that feels somewhat like a bouncing tire
Cause: Coasting in Drive (Applying the gas at all stops the vibration, putting the car in Neutral also stops the vibration)
I just took delivery about 2 weeks ago of a 2011 LS 460L AWD with less than 30k miles. I have a very annoying issue that happens every time I let off the accelerator. There is a consistent vibration that seems to be coming from the drive train. It's really annoying to me. This occurs when driving about 50 mph or greater, nothing when driving at slower speeds. There is a 30 day exchange policy where I bought the car from, hope I don't need to use it.
View 14 RepliesDuring an extended drive of the new ride today, we noticed an intermittent vibration when coasting downhill around 60MPH. I popped it in neutral and the vibration disappeared completely. Also, it stayed vibration-free when placed back in Drive, without touching the gas. But as soon as throttle is applied and then you coast again, the vibration reappears.
This points to a condition that only happens when the torque converter is locked, which could be a vibration originating within the transfer case that once coupled to the engine via the locked torque converter uses the engine as a tuning fork, resulting in the vibration. The L-SB-0013-12 AWD Vibration TSB mentions an ECM recalibration, which likely changes the torque converter to unlock whenever you lift off the gas pedal. Is this correct?
I also remember reading about the other TSB, where the "magic expensive fluid" in the transfer case gets changed 3 times in rapid succession. This would address chattering clutches within the transfer case, eliminating vibration at the source vs. masking it by unlocking the torque converter.
We also noticed a misfiring sensation under light throttle conditions at around 40-50MPH. I'm wondering if this is in fact the transfer case clutch chatter issue also...since the 60k spark plug replacement has already been done.
2000 ranger 2.5 245000 miles. code po171 and idle problem has come back. Replace ICV, EGR, MAF, PVC, check fuel pres, air cleaner, plugs, wires, O2, check for vac leaks, Intermittently coasting at 20mph out of gear (stick shift) engine revs to 2500 rpm and holds until i brake to a stop then it idles down. So I disconnect the ICV and it runs perfect. (its a new ICV) something is telling the ICV to open up. a month ago it did the same thing when i replaced the EGR the idle problem cleared up so I thought that was it.
There is a relationship between the truck speed and the engine speed but how does the engine speed know the truck is moving when its out of gear. It work perfect for a month all of a sudden it starts this problem again. I am thinking of taking it to the ford dealer for a diagnostic test but I don't know how specific they can get on whats wrong I don't what to them to just say "oh you have a vac leak" . . . I know a 171 could be vac leak but the problem is so dramatic and off again on again it seems more like a part problem then a vac hose is either leaking or not.
I am a first time Toyota car owner. I bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE this past Saturday. It has only 42,000 miles on it, and I got a pretty decent deal on it! I'm still getting used to how the car drives, but it seems to be running great. The only thing I notice sometimes is that I am coasting downhill (not using the brakes) I notice a bit of a vibration sound coming from what sounds like the back windshield. If it keeps occurring, I might take it to the dealer for them to check it out. With my luck, the issue might not even happen though with them there.
View 4 RepliesWas coasting down a hill(manual transmission) and the car stalled out on me. Tried for a couple minutes to restart it with no luck, the engine turns over but just wont start.
As I post this I still haven't got the car home so I haven't been able to do any trouble shooting yet. Once I get it home I'll ceck for fuel and spark, and from what I have read already people have said it could be the Crankshaft Sensor.
2001 Accent 1.5 - Manual
Up until this there has been no signs of any issues with running or starting...
I have a 2000 Volvo V70 XC wagon AWD. I just purchased this car in January and it needed a lot of love and care. Here's my car question: I have a rattling noise that started about a week ago. Just this morning (on my way to the mechanic ironically/luckily) the rattling became very loud and apparent. The noise sounds something like a piece of metal rattling around in an empty coffee can. The noise seemed to go away when I was accelerating, get louder when coasting, and then slowed down in frequency (not volume) as the speed of my car slowed down.
My mechanic also isn't sure what's wrong. He has had himself and 2 other mechanics look at, in addition to hooking it up to machines and making phone calls to Volvo. He says the noise is unmistakably coming from my drive-shaft and that it sounds like it is traveling from one end of the drive shaft to the other. He also said it's odd because the place that the noise is coming from is just a shaft and shouldn't be making any noise?
My 2000 Jetta GLS is producing a clunking/knocking sound from the front end (possibly left-front) ONLY while coasting and going straight. It mostly goes away if I turn left or right and totally goes away when I give the wheels engine power or when I brake.
I recently replaced my front-left control arm due to a thrashed rear bushing. I didn't replace the bearing as I didn't have a pickle fork. Not sure if this is related.
We pulled out of the parking garage going up the hill it acting like i was in neutral all of a sudden. it was running fine but i was coasting backwards. After checking the tranny fluid it was mostly gone so as my wife and kid sat in the still running car I went for fluid. I put in in and then drove up that hill went around the corner and it did it again. Then i got towed home. When its cold it works when I drive a little this happens. Its on all gears and no matter how much gas I give it there is no attempt at shifting and no weird noises.
View 14 RepliesI have been picking at an engine vibration for more than a year.
I have a '00 Explorer 302 V8 installed in an '82 Volvo. This engine/transmission has not been abused and only has 15k miles since it left the Ford factory. It was found intact on a pallet in dry storage. Everything was there as from Ford from the fan to the transmission output bushing. There is an engine vibration beginning about 2000 rpm in PARK so the problem is not in the transmission or drive shaft.
Perfectly smooth at idle and until you approach the start of the vibration.
Replaced the viscous clutch mechanical fan with duel electric so it isn't an out of balance fan.
Pulled the serpentine belt this afternoon and still have the vibration. Might have been a little less and I did find a idler pulley that had a little rattle but the big vibration is still there with only the harmonic balancer through torque converter rotating.
Replaced the pulley. Nothing else changed from when Ford built it.
No OBD codes.
I am getting a light clicking from my rear Axel when coasting at a slow speed. It could be clicking at any speed but my car is to loud to hear it going down the road. I don't have more details than this. What to look for ?
View 15 Replies2000 V10 X vibrates from 40-55MPH when OD is on. When OD is off, significantly less vibration - very minor between 40-50MPH. Bad OSS?
I had codes for misfires on #4 and #8. I replace the spark plugs and coil packs on all 10 cylinders and codes changed to P0354/P0358 - primary/secondary circuit. Wondering if that is contributing to it.
I did the full reset process on the PCM. Codes cleared throughout the entire process. But once I stopped and restarted truck, codes came back.
My thinking is to get a replacement PCM first. I haven't done a lot looking over the wires to #4,8 coil packs. cursory look they seem to be fine.
My new to me 04 X has a fairly bad vibration that starts around 55 mph. At about 60-65 it sort of goes away, but not completely. The wheels are 20" F-250 wheels ( 2006 ) with spacers/adapters. These were on it when I bought it. I had the wheels re-balanced and checked the ball joints. This made no difference.
This is not what I would call the death wobble, just a bad vibration in the front end. The steering wheel does shake/vibrate a little, but so does most of the truck while it is doing it.
At about 60mph I start to get a vibration through the vehicle. Its not in the steering wheel but the seats have a little vibration and you can see the child seats start to shake some. Stops above 80 and doesn't get real bad, just a little shimmy.
I rotated and balanced the tires with only 6k on them and its no luck. Where to start looking next: driveshafts, u joints, sway bar, etc.
2003 6.0 4wd....
On our trip to Daytona this weekend I noticed a vibration/shudder between 45-55mph. Above and below that range it doesn't happen. Dont feel it in steering wheel or pedal. Does it in both 3rd and OD. Got under truck and driveshaft doesn't move at all. Just got those new tires put on a couple weeks ago. Don't remember this vibration before that.
Just checked tire pressure - front right 48 psi. All the rest have about 45 psi, would that do it? I have a shudder in brakes from stops above 45 mph I'm assuming warped rotors, could that do it?