I have a 2001 Exrursion 5.4L V8. The code P1131 comes up and it says "Lack of upstream heated oxygen sensor switch - sensor indicates lean - bank #1". I hear it could be the sensor that is bad or there is a vacuum leak. It runs like a champ, no spitting, no sputtering, no missing, no ruff idle. What do I need to do to fix it or where do I need to start looking?
View 3 RepliesI received error code P0031 on my 06 Avalon the other day. It states that the HO2S (Heated Oxygen Sensor) is bad. Bank 1 Sensor 1. I located the sensor but have a few questions...
Just to give an over view for those that don't know where these are, there are 4 sensors the one in the front on the manifold (upper - B2, S1), (lower - B2, S2) and the rear manifold (upper - B1, S1), (lower - B1, S2).
All of the sensors look the same with 4 wires. what the part number is for the sensor? Also since this is the hardest one to get to, I would like to know where the wire routes to. I found the wire up to the connector on every other sensor except the one I need (B1S1). It looks like it runs towards the top of the engine but from the top I don't see it.
I have a 1999 Ford f150 4.6L automatic. My check engine light had been on for awhile so I dug out my DTC code reader erased it, came back on 10-15 minutes later. I got the code P1131 sensor indicates lean which you would think is the O2 sensor a week later it won't start. Then randomly a couple days later it starts then that night it didn't. Hear is the parts that confused me. I don't believe an oxygen sensor would cause it not to start, it's cranking nice just won't turn over. And when you get the code P1131 I believe it bay 1 where the readings are off Well here's my readings.
Fuel system 1 CL-FaultCalc load 34.1%ECT 201.2 FSTFT B1 -1.6%LTFT B1 0.0 %STFT B2 -1.6%LEFT B2 0.0%ENG RPM 1101VEH SPEED 27 MPH
It looks like to me bay 1 and 2 are off? I'm not mechanically challenged, but not a mechanic either, I do most my own work on my vehicles..
The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
View 11 RepliesI just bought a '98 Ranger 2.5l 2wd. After driving it for a week or so I got a P1405 Code. After a quick google search I got :
P1405 Ford - DPFE Sensor Circuit Upstream Hose
Possible Causes: - Faulty Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor (EGR pressure sensor)
- Plugged or damaged EGR tube
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor harness is open or shorted
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Now, I have done my research between forums and youtube and have found this EGR system to be quite. I've gone ahead and replaced my DPEF. I took an air hose and blew out all the small lines coming into the DPEF. I still have the engine light. My next move is to get a volt meter and see if I'm getting power to the sensor.
My question is about this particular code and is it possible I need to look farther into this EGR system (EGR Valve, EGR Hose, etc.)
I just bought an 04 camry 4 cylinder. It was running perfect when I got it but the moment we got home it threw a CEL. The code was for an upstream o2 sensor, however I did a resistance test and the heater circuit is fine. I did a voltage test on the blue and white wires and I got 3.3v and 2.9v. I don't remember which wire gave me which voltage at the moment. I would like to know if this data is a good thing or if it's broken. I do not have any data to go off of, and I couldn't find the factory service manual online. Its also worth mentioning that it idles very rough and the catalytic converter is giving a rotten egg smell but not all the time. When neither of these things happen the CEL goes away. I do not want to start throwing parts at it.
View 1 RepliesThis issue pertains to a 2006 Camry LE 4-cyl.
My check engine light came on - code P0032 (upstream O2 sensor). I bought a new sensor from O'Reilly Auto Parts. After installing the new sensor, the car would jerk while accelerating. This continued to happen until roughly 30 miles or so when the engine light came back on and the jerking stopped! I re-scanned the car and it showed the same error - P0032. I then erased the code, and the jerking issue resumed.
I assumed this was caused by a faulty O2 sensor. I returned and got another one. Same issue.
Is this the result of not getting an OEM sensor from the dealer? Or is there something else I should be worried about?
I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
My accent (2001, 1.6L, with 179k miles) has service engine soon light on. Brought it to autozone and they said the upstream O2 sensor needs to be replaced. I borrowed the socket to take out the O2 sensor. It's very difficult even with the tool, because the O2 sensor was stuck with a lot of rust. I used an extension bar to get it out finally, but now when i tried to put the new sensor in, I found the hole's thread is very loose. Tried very hard but can't get the new sensor in securely. It seems I had to replace the whole exhaust manifold. The manifold is very expensive(because it has a build in catalyst converter). I'm wondering is there a way to make the O2 sensor in secure without replacing the whole thing? if I had to replace the manifold then I probably will just get rid of this car.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 ford explorer sport and realized that the oxygen sensor on the passenger side behind the cat was unplugged from the harness.
I am unable to find the harness and dont know where its supposed to go.
I would like to get this fixed right away but can not find a diagram anywhere, or a manual...
My Jetta has been throwing this code on and off for over a year now. It used to only come on when it was really cold with wet roads. Now the code will randomly come on in any weather. I usually just clear it but it's coming on to often now. I don't notice any performance issues or gas mileage problems.
Scan shows : Trouble Code - P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
I've been reading and apparently 1.8t engines only have One bank? I'm assuming this the the front 02 sensor throwing this but not sure?
I have an aftermarket exhaust/high flow cat. Apparently this can be caused by a high flow after market catalytic converter and one solution is to use a test pipe or spacer to move the rear O2 sensor further from the exhaust gas flow. But I'm not sure this is the issue since I think it's my front sensor throwing the code? That's not by the Cat is it? I just don't want to have the sensor replaced to have the code still come up.
Replaced my post cat drivers side O2 sensor tonight because I was getting zero voltage and a p0430 code. This is bank 2 sensor 1.
But I'm still reading zero voltage!! How could I still be getting zero voltage?? I checked the connections and they are firm. Checked every single fuse in car.
After my recent accident, the center console lights don't illuminate. My nav door doesn't close too. Could these all be related?? The connector for the O2 sensor is right next to the console, so maybe there is a loose connection or plug or perhaps a stray ground?? I do have wires all over the place in under the shifter bezel from aftermarket stuff..
I have a 2001 Mazda Protege LX 2.0 with 121,000 miles. I removed the front oxygen sensor today to replace an exhaust pipe, and I noticed that the tip has a red/pinkish color on one side only. What this would indicate?
The only thing I could find online is that a pink tip indicates lead in the fuel. This is impossible, since the only gas station I frequent is a Conoco which is always very busy. Plus, I haven't noticed any performance issues from bad gas, and not to mention the fact that leaded fuel has been completely phased out for 15 years. What's weirder is that the sensor tip is only pink on one side - I'm guessing it's the side that's facing the exhaust manifold.
I just posted last week that my check engine light was on and the dealer wanted to replace fuel injectors. But after the fuel throttle was cleaned and oxygen sensor was replaced the check engine light went off. However, yesterday the check engine light came back on. I am talking it back to the dealer, in a couple of days. Where can I go to get to get the error codes read so I have them before I go back to the dealer? Around 128,000 runs fine, around 40 miles per gallon. Last time I had the oil change dealer nothing came up on the 30 point inspection.
View 7 RepliesMy Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
View 1 RepliesI actually found headers for my 5sfe and I took them cleaned them up real well and put them on.
The problem I am having is that the o2 sensor space on the headers is for the threaded style sensor and the upstream that comes stock is the bolted on style although the downstream does have the threads.
Can I take the downstream o2 sensor and put it in the slot and since I have put on headers it takes out the cat will this make the car run like crap? also I have tried to take it down the street with just the headers and I had almost no power.
would this be caused by the downstream o2 sensor in the upstream spot and no exhaust other than the headers?
If the upstream pre-cat sensor is bad could it cause a P0421 CEL error? 2001 Mazda Protege L4 2L 116,800....
View 5 RepliesI'm getting the p1131 error on my 2000 xlt f150 5.4l. I know it's usually a vacuum leak on the pcv hosing, which I did have at the back and replaced as well as other softer joining sections(3 to be exact lol), but I'm still getting this error. Changed out my plugs and cops(as they needed it) and the back two plugs on both bank 1 and 2(plugs 4&8) were both white! Since this is an obvious indication of a lean burning cylinder can I make the assumption my most likely problem is dirty fuel injectors on those cylinders?
View 13 RepliesI just had an OBD code pulled on my 2010 Camry and it turns out that my Heated O2 sensor for Bank 1 Sensor 2 is failing. I'd rather do this myself if I can but I can't figure out where this thing is. Is this something I can access myself and swap out? Or does this need to be fixed by a mechanic?
View 9 RepliesI own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
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Ok I've been plagued with this very random misfire/power loss/hesitation problem going on a couple of months. You could drive the truck anywhere from 50-300 miles without having an encounter of this problem. It seems to do it now mostly on contiguous long trips over like 30 miles. It one time threw up a P1131 code which quickly went away on it's own. This is a list of stuff that has been recently changed: plugs, wires, coil packs, air filter, pcv valve, fuel injectors, tps, idle air valve, MAF cleaned, fuel filter, and egr valve.
I sprayed with brake cleaner for vacuum leaks around the intake tonight after driving a continuous 50 mile round trip it messed a few times on the way back. When I sprayed the EGR valve mounting area it idled rough when it was hit with brake clean and idled up. So there's a leak there. Or is it stuck? It will be driving normal and usually when you come to a stop the engine will start missing really bad and then when you take off there's no power at all. You keep your foot on the gas and eventually it will feel like all the power is just turned on.
If it does it while you're driving highway speeds it will feel like you've lost a cylinder but it's not as dramatic as when you come to a stop and it starts missing. I can't be 100% but I don't think the EGR wasn't leaking before I replaced it and it was still doing the same thing. I'm wondering why the Check Engine Light won't pick up an obvious misfire when you can you actually feel it. And why if it was the vacuum leak would it only start doing it after many miles of driving?