Ford Excursion :: 2003 - Rough Idle - Puff Of White Smoke On Cold Startup - Slight Exhaust Leak
Sep 10, 2014
I've been chasing a problem all summer. Began with crappy batteries dying intermittently. I replaced the batteries, FICM, finally cleaned EGR valve and replaced ICP with pigtail. The problem is still persistent. Basically a rough idle, puff of whit smoke on cold startup, rough running at around 1500 rpms( driving at 50 mph). The ICP was soaked in oil so i was confident replacing it would finally cure my issues. It actually got worse with the rough idle turning to a surging idle and quite rumbly at 50 mph speed. I guess its time to look to injector issues but i thought id check if after replacing icp/ cleaning egr. I also have a slight exhaust leak at turbo out that i can see. The clamp is not seated properly. This after turbo connection to exhaust.
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Early 99 7.3. Runs ok has a slight miss at idle however every injector when unhooked makes a change. Has white and blue smoke From the exhaust. Has enough blow by to blow the oil cap off as your unscrewing it. My question is, I know engine restore is bad for these trucks but I can't afford to rebuild the engine. If I run the restore and then clean the IRP once the truck dies is this going to mess anything else up. Do you think it will by me a few months to save up for a rebuild
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I'm losing coolant have, excessive white smoke coming from the exhaust, and rough idle. Doesn't over heat or even try to overheat. The oil fill cap looks brownish white. It drives fine other than extremely rough idle. I know how to check a blown head gasket with the combustion gas test.
From what I've read blown head gaskets on 4.6 fords are fairly uncommon but a blown intake gasket is fairly common. How can I tell the difference?
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My beloved excursion is 300 miles away from me in a no start condition. Vehicle has 270K miles. Very well cared for. No issues to date since purchase 5 years ago. Went to back up and the vehicle starting Caming like it had a big cam in it. went from reverse to drive and problem went away. Drove vehicle for 2 more weeks without issue. Then all of a sudden it dies. Restart driver on down the road 1/4 mile, dies again. Restart, make 45 mile drive home vehicle is low on power will hardly pull a grade but I got to my friends house. Went to start vehicle next day and no start. Puff white smoke while trying to start. It hits every once in awhile but wont run.
The vehicle is throwing NO CODES other than an open glow plug on 1&8 which it has for sometime now. I have changed, fuel filter, fuel pump, CPS(genuine ford), IPR and IPS. No real changes still wont start. I disconnected the IPS and it started but it sounded like it was only running on a couple of cylinders. It would not accept throttle. The local Forddealer does not have a Ford diesel tech. Ive called a couple of diesel shops and I hear could be a bad HPOP, or bad ECM or a bad IDM but without seeing it. I am at my wits end with this thing. I am an electronic engineer by background. So I have a good sense of the process. I have checked all fuses, relays, etc. I will say I did have one issue with it a year ago where the UVC problem popped up but the dealer fixed it and it has been fine ever since.
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I have a 12 F150 with the 5.0L. it has 27000 miles on the clock. Noticed twice a small puff of white smoke coming out of the exhaust and decided to check the oil level and it was a quart low. The last oil change was done at 23000 miles and used Full Synthetic Pennzoil and a K&N filter. Called the local dealership I purchased at and they told me NOT to use full synthetic and should only be using Motorcraft semi synthetic with a Motorcraft filter. I know the dealerships will only endorse and advice Motorcraft products but what does everyone else use and think. In the meantime I added a quart of oil and all is fine.
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I have a 03 Camry, that has started to release white Smoke from the exhaust only on start-up for about a week now. After that I don't see anything not even if i rev up the car.. Only on start up.. WHY??
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Recently purchased a used 2003 Toyota Camry LE. After a recent oil change at the local Toyota dealer we noticed that when we start the car in the morning a puff of white smoke spews out from the exhaust for a few seconds and stops. There is no more white smoke while driving the car around. The car runs perfect and has no power loss. Initially we had noticed it was losing coolant. All the discussion on the internet pointed to a bad head gasket. We had a mechanic look at it and it turned out that the radiator was leaking and hence the loss of coolant. He also noticed the oil was overfilled so he brought it down to the normal level. The mechanic also checked the head gasket and claimed there were no issues with it. Replacing the radiator took care of the coolant loss but the white smoke still comes out only the first time the car is started.
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I've been googling for about 3 hours now, and no answers for the gassers, just diesels. When I start my excursion (v10) it pours white smoke for a while, then stops. It does this every time I start it no matter how far I go or how long it sits.
There is plenty of coolant in it and I've never had to top it off, so I don't think it is getting coolant in the cylinder. With that much smoke it wood definitely need coolant if that's what it was. Oil consumption is kind of high in my opinion, but the smoke smells rich.
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I have a 2001 7.3 that almost has everything practically brand new... new hpop, water pump, uvch, gpr, glow plugs, icp sensor, ipr sensor, cps and new turbo pedestal that was leaking oil, well now my truck has a cold start to where it has to be plugged in to start and when it finally does it smokes white pretty bad, misses and sounds like it's jumping around under the hood up until it warms up and revs fine with less white smoke but still a miss!!
Compression on test has been done, and good, fuel pressure is good, but the buzz test when cold shows 123457 muffled and quite and when the truck is warm only 3 and 4 are still muffled and quite? Injectors sticking?? Or just need New injectors!
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I have a 98 expedition with the 4.6l 4x4 and it has 158,000 on the dash had a new engine installed at 100,000 it started running rough and sluggish last week so I changed out the spark plugs and while changing the plug I notice oil on the threads of the two rear passenger side plugs. After the new plugs it was smoking pretty bad blueish white smoke. I figured it was the oil from around the threads that had leaked into the cyl.
The smoked cleared after 2 days and ran great for a week. Now its doing the same thing again real rough idle and and its extremely sluggish. I can put the pedal to the floor and she barely wants to move almost like the tranny is going out but the rough idle leads me to believe its and engine problem. I have the check engine light on but can't get any codes. I also tried checking for vacuum leaks by spraying either round the intake and vacuum lines and didn't notice any change in rpms so I'm guess the vacuum is fine.
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My 2003 F150, 5.4L has been having some rough idle/misfires issues both at idle and under load.
I have fixed one big vacuum leak, replaced the PCV valve, new sparkplugs, seafoam and heet in the gas, replaced fuel filter, tested the fuel injector resistance. Coolant levels have not changed. The truck burns about a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. The white exhaust is heavier than condensation, but it comes and goes. The rough idling comes and goes as well, and it usually happens under load and the CEL flashes.
The codes I get are random cylinders, po303, po308, po171, po174 were the most recent but there have been other cylinders as well. I clear the codes after each attempt to fix it and they come back different.
I notice that there is a small exhaust leak that drips water just behind the engine, and when I shut down the truck a lot of water will pour out of an area just behind the cab on the passenger side as well as out of the bottom of the muffler (small hole, looks drilled).
Usually the rough idle occurs after filling up the tank, but from different stations so I do not think it would be watery gas. I use Heet every fill up as well. Also, there is a sulfur smell after the rough idling occurs (catalytic converter?).
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2009 Camry 4cyl
I changed my PCV valve over a month ago and still have white smoke coming form exhaust on startup. The smoke goes aways as always, after that the smell is gone and the car runs like normal. The smell of the smoke is not really sweet as if it was coolant leaking, but its not exactly smelling like burnt oil either (I've had cars that burnt oil real bad and it smelled different than this camry).
I've been keeping an eye out on my oil and coolant levels, both seem to be ok. I refilled my coolant tank to full about 2.5 months ago as it was very low and its still almost at full right now. My oil after about 4k miles on the dipstick measures right in the middle of the min and max dots, which it has been for as long as I've owned the car. So these levels are ok I think.
Now, I've read somewhere a while back that after changing the PCV valve or rather after taking the old one off that there still will be some residue to be burnt off. A way to get rid of that is to create a makeshift vacuum by plugging one end of the hose (the one that attaches to PCV valve) and leaving the PCV valve off while running the engine, putting some kind of cloth or similar over where the PCV valve should go to collect all the burnt stuff, thus cleaning the remainder out. Is it possible that this might be the a solution?
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My 7.3 won't start after sitting for almost 2 months, the wiring for the injectors was bad, and the first package was damaged, so I had to order a new one, and wait trough Christmas before I get the new parts. The valve cover seals have now been installed, and all parts fitted. Thieves stole my batteries so I had to buy new ones there as well.
When I tried to start it, it will crank, but not start, white smoke comes out of the exhaust, and glow plugs seem to be fine. One thing I did notice is that the fuel pump under the driver side of car was making a wired noise when turning on the ignition, it was not a constant hissing sound that I used to on my other cars. I poured a small amount of condensation remover in the tank, the tank is half full, but still no start.
After trying a few times, it did sound like it would get better, but that only lasted for a second. Strange problem, I think my fuel pump is acting up, but I don't know for sure yet. The fuel pump did work when I parked it. Could it be a fuse that does it? I checked the hpop to see if there was any oil there, and it was.
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2000 Nissan Sentra with 105,000 miles. Runs great. All scheduled maintenance from the beginning. Grandma owned until I got a hold of it 2 years ago.
The beginning...
The car has had a slight exhaust-type smell for about a month. I thought it was either an exhaust leak or a small oil leak. I overlooked this as it was running great and I only drive to and from work at a total of 5 miles/day. I was going to be driving it about 20 miles so I figured I should just double check the oil.
Before my drive, I checked the oil and the dipstick said I had absolutely no oil. Backstory: I got my oil changed about 2 months ago and they broke the dipstick. They replaced it with a new one. I drove a few blocks to get oil. I purchased 2 quarts filled it up. I drove off and about a half a block later it started smoking bad. White smoke canvassing the whole street.
I turned around and went back to the auto parts store. I had a guy come out and look at it and he was baffled. The only thing he though was that it had run completely dry and it need more oil. We put 2 more quarts of oil in it (4 now) and it did not register at all on the dip-stick. A small oil leak was discovered coming from the head gasket (that was the smell). Also, there was no milkiness under the oil cap indicating
I decided to drive it back to work to leave it overnight. It smoked like hell and I made it about 4 blocks before it died. I pushed it the rest of the way and it stayed overnight.
The next day, I spoke to a mechanic friend. The only thing he could think of was that the dipstick was not the right size and it wasn’t reading any oil. The oil I put in was extra and the car was burning it off. He suggested I drain out all the oil and put 4 quarts in.
I drained all the oil but only 4 quarts came out. I added 3 quarts of oil and checked it again. Not it was reading about 10 times more oil than what I was supposed to have.
My mechanic friend said to start it up and the oil level should go down. I did start it up and the oil level did go down but it was reading about 5 times more oil than it should have. That is where I am at at this point. Hopefully it isn't a blown head gasket or piston.
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I'm in the middle of an extended coolant flush and switch over to ELC. As of recently, I have noticed white smoke at startup and driving while cold and warming up. (Even at times accelerating when half warmed up ~170*). At first I attributed it to suction, so last night I changed the oil with T6 along with a new OEM filter.
After I got done with the oil, I pulled my EGR valve when the engine was hot. Is this simply goey due to warmth, or do you suspect EGR cooler leaking? I didn't take pictures of the manifold, but the lower chamber was hard and dry, while the middle section seemed to be "goey". EGR Cooler or something else???
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After a hard rain overnight, my truck would not stay on. I had to give it gas while still in park or it would cut off. Also I noticed white smoke from the exhaust while doing that. Eventually car stayed on. But now at when I come to a stop, the car will cut off when I put my foot on the gas to take off. I also.noticed the overdrive button will start to blink. Once the car gets going a few miles, then it's fine. Then this process starts all over again once the car is parked. Also the service engine soon light came on.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander 6 cyl, 148,000 miles. I get a cloud of white smoke from the tailpipe upon starting a cold engine. Smokes for about 1-2 minutes, then smoke stops.
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I have an issue with a slightly rough sounding engine and some white smoke on start up. It disappears very quickly. I have been told it may be glow plugs or an idle actuator thingy, how do i check which one it is. How can you tell if a glow plug is working or not. I have a 2006 Santa Fe 2.0 with 58000 on the clock.
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So I bought an 04 3 months ago everything seemed good all deltas were good had a small leak nothing serious. I had the egr deleted then i did the mistake of flooring it 1 morning at top end and the mech is telling me threw a valve. The truck was stumbling and running ruff with white smoke. looks like cycl. 7 took a hit and shows 10 psi of compression. The injector are in working order and so are the rockers. the bill is 3500 all in for new gaskets and oil cooler head work, arp studs and labor.
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I noticed a rough idle after driving an hour with a 6000 lb trailer and stopped at an offramp. Had no performance issues to that point in an hour drive. Then I noticed a good amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. The idle felt just like when I had a contribution/balance code on #5 a year ago, and a new injector fixed that. Before long (10-20 minutes later) the idle got real loud, like a big knock/loud tick every revolution.
I had a bunch of stored codes, so I reset them and later found a P0281 - Cylinder 7 contribution/Balance and P0404 - EGR control circuit range/performance were the 2 that came back. I drove it 2 more hours to get home. It ran well under load, but coasting or stopped gave the loud knock, and stopped and idling was a rough, inconsistent idle. It even stalled on me 3 times when braking for a red light (auto trans). There was a lot of white smoke all the time, plus a little dark smoke on acceleration.
What would you recommend for troubleshooting steps? I could put a new injector in #7 and clean the EGR valve, but want to have a good idea that will fix it first. Is there a good chance I have a messed up piston in #7 now?
Codes I cleared:
P0148 Fuel delivery error
P0234 turbo overboost (i know i need to pull and clean the turbo anyway, unrelated to today's issue)
P0281 Cylinder 7 contribution/Balance
P0404 EGR control circuit range/performance
P0670 Glow plug (I had the module unplugged a while ago)
P0683 Glow plug (I had the module unplugged a while ago)
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Dad has a 2010 F150 CC SB. it has the 5.4 in it. Ever since day one it has had a noticeable tick in the valve train. But it can only be heard inside the truck when there is no other noise... Open the hood and its not there. Ford dealer told dad that it was normal, and that the firewalls are just not thick enough where it gets really close to the engine and that the sound is transferred to the firewall.
NEXT question... Not always, but sometimes when the truck is started cold, it will puff white smoke.... Every time dad has had it at the dealer they say they cannot ever see it. Curious if any of your trucks have this issue, before I take it back there with again, asking to go start every truck on the parking lot listening for the tick and the smoke...
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