Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Valve Train Ticking - Puff Of White Smoke
Oct 25, 2010
Dad has a 2010 F150 CC SB. it has the 5.4 in it. Ever since day one it has had a noticeable tick in the valve train. But it can only be heard inside the truck when there is no other noise... Open the hood and its not there. Ford dealer told dad that it was normal, and that the firewalls are just not thick enough where it gets really close to the engine and that the sound is transferred to the firewall.
NEXT question... Not always, but sometimes when the truck is started cold, it will puff white smoke.... Every time dad has had it at the dealer they say they cannot ever see it. Curious if any of your trucks have this issue, before I take it back there with again, asking to go start every truck on the parking lot listening for the tick and the smoke...
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I have a 12 F150 with the 5.0L. it has 27000 miles on the clock. Noticed twice a small puff of white smoke coming out of the exhaust and decided to check the oil level and it was a quart low. The last oil change was done at 23000 miles and used Full Synthetic Pennzoil and a K&N filter. Called the local dealership I purchased at and they told me NOT to use full synthetic and should only be using Motorcraft semi synthetic with a Motorcraft filter. I know the dealerships will only endorse and advice Motorcraft products but what does everyone else use and think. In the meantime I added a quart of oil and all is fine.
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99 Passat 1.8 Turbo 4 cyl. Noticing a ticking in the valve train. Louder @ cold start. Can't hear it on acceleration, just when sitting. Sometimes it won't do it at all. But most recently it's constant. The other morning I cranked on and the CEL came on.
Took it to mechanic, he let it set for while to cool down, restarted and the CEL was off (hasn't come back on), he could hear the ticking, thought maybe the timing belt needs to be replaced or adjusted, the 02 sensor or possibly week lifters?????
July 06' VW did a "desludge" (for free!) and replace all parts having to do w/ oil and filled w/ synthetic. So that's not the problem. My mechanic isn't familiar with VW valve trains, belts, lifters, heads etc. He's done a great job on everything else, but acts like he's really scared to open this can of worms.
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My beloved excursion is 300 miles away from me in a no start condition. Vehicle has 270K miles. Very well cared for. No issues to date since purchase 5 years ago. Went to back up and the vehicle starting Caming like it had a big cam in it. went from reverse to drive and problem went away. Drove vehicle for 2 more weeks without issue. Then all of a sudden it dies. Restart driver on down the road 1/4 mile, dies again. Restart, make 45 mile drive home vehicle is low on power will hardly pull a grade but I got to my friends house. Went to start vehicle next day and no start. Puff white smoke while trying to start. It hits every once in awhile but wont run.
The vehicle is throwing NO CODES other than an open glow plug on 1&8 which it has for sometime now. I have changed, fuel filter, fuel pump, CPS(genuine ford), IPR and IPS. No real changes still wont start. I disconnected the IPS and it started but it sounded like it was only running on a couple of cylinders. It would not accept throttle. The local Forddealer does not have a Ford diesel tech. Ive called a couple of diesel shops and I hear could be a bad HPOP, or bad ECM or a bad IDM but without seeing it. I am at my wits end with this thing. I am an electronic engineer by background. So I have a good sense of the process. I have checked all fuses, relays, etc. I will say I did have one issue with it a year ago where the UVC problem popped up but the dealer fixed it and it has been fine ever since.
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I have a 4 cylinder 2000 Camry that I recently took to the shop because my check engine light was on and it was blowing out a puff of white smoke when the car first starts. I was told it was an EGR problem and this is what I had fixed:
"Upon client approval, remove and replace defective EGR Bypass Vacuum Valve with new (OE) EGR Bypass Vacuum Valve. Test drive vehicle following service to confirm proper operation. Warranty on parts and labor is 2 years or 20,000 miles (whichever comes first). Warranty valid at FIXCARNOW locations only. "
The problem is my car is still blowing out smoke, the check engine light is off, but it is having the same problems it did before. My concern is that either they didn't properly diagnose the problem,even though they ran a full diagnostic on the car, or just didn't fix it.
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B6 Exhaust smoke issues. I'll be taking the car into the dealer for a look.
Car has 2,500 miles, and I can't see any smoke while driving. Only someone following me sees it. It's only a small white puff of smoke when I'm accelerating from a stop. I'm told it doesn't last long, and is just a small puff, not a cloud.
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I've been chasing a problem all summer. Began with crappy batteries dying intermittently. I replaced the batteries, FICM, finally cleaned EGR valve and replaced ICP with pigtail. The problem is still persistent. Basically a rough idle, puff of whit smoke on cold startup, rough running at around 1500 rpms( driving at 50 mph). The ICP was soaked in oil so i was confident replacing it would finally cure my issues. It actually got worse with the rough idle turning to a surging idle and quite rumbly at 50 mph speed. I guess its time to look to injector issues but i thought id check if after replacing icp/ cleaning egr. I also have a slight exhaust leak at turbo out that i can see. The clamp is not seated properly. This after turbo connection to exhaust.
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I have a 2005 Camry that is not leaking coolant (checking water level every morning) it has a puff of white smoke the first start of the day. I initially suspected condensation, as it only produces white smoke when temperature goes down to 65 degrees or cooler during the night.
However the longer it sits without starting, greater the amount of smoke. If I do not start the car at all on Saturday and on Sunday afternoon I start it, there is a lot more white smoke than I get every morning during weekdays. If it was condensation, by Sunday afternoon when temp isn't as cool, shouldn't all the water collecting evaporated?
Assuming it is condensation, what part failing would cause this? This car did not have this white smoke issue when it was new.
Not sure if it is related but the engine stutters on the first start of the day. Stutter also gets worse the colder the temp and the longer it's been sitting without starting. During summer when it's 85+, it does not stutter in the morning.
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My 1994 4x4 4Runner throws out a white puff of smoke at the tail pipe everytime I start it and sometimes when I'm driving. Just recently, it has no acceleration power what so ever and it can hardly go up a hill.
Is my engine total? Also, I'm leaking alot of steering fluid but, no puddles anywhere.
Is there a connection between the two or is it just time to buy a new car?
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I have a 1997 Nissan pickup with 269000 mile on it when you first crank it up after sitting all night a puff of blue or white or gray smoke come out of the tail pipe.
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I've had my truck start making a nice CLUNK from the vicinity of the rear axle when starting moving from a standstill. (and it's a pretty decent thunk sometimes, you hear it AND feel it). I called and made an appt to bring it in and have it checked out (also having the first oil change done and gonna see if they can figure out why the automatic headlights are almost always on even on a bright sunny day) ...
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2 days ago, and again twice today, I have had an issue when I need to change lanes and speed up, but when I hit the gas pedal (not flooring it, but significant pressure) I have had the car jerk 3 times while the rpm needle goes up to 6. Then the rpm drops to 2, the acceleration finally kicks in, and a huge puff of grey smoke makes the cars behind me completely disappear.
I've read threads about the smoke with the acceleration, but no one mentioned the jerking and not wanting to actually accelerate at first.
There are 33,000 miles on my car.
I called the dealership and they said it only sounds like it's an issue that something in the engine needs to be cleaned out, and they want to charge me $200 if that's the case.
Should something need to be cleaned out at only 33,000 miles? (mind you I also just had the dealership tell me I didn't need my 30,000 mile tune up yet after doing an inspection).
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I have a 2003 F250 that has recently started blowing white smoke. I replaced the EGR Valve but no luck.
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I have a 2011 eco boost 3.5. well I was driving it made a big bang/ puff noise then the no oil psi came on and runs like its on 2 or 3 cly. oil is leaking heavily on the passenger side of engine looks like by the turbo but to hard to see past engine mount. pulled the plugs and did compression check passenger side front cly 0 next cly 110 last 110, drivers side front 135 next 125 and last 120. Deep down I know the engine is nfg . was this a turbo fail . are engine swaps hard to do on the f150 .
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2009 Camry 4cyl
I changed my PCV valve over a month ago and still have white smoke coming form exhaust on startup. The smoke goes aways as always, after that the smell is gone and the car runs like normal. The smell of the smoke is not really sweet as if it was coolant leaking, but its not exactly smelling like burnt oil either (I've had cars that burnt oil real bad and it smelled different than this camry).
I've been keeping an eye out on my oil and coolant levels, both seem to be ok. I refilled my coolant tank to full about 2.5 months ago as it was very low and its still almost at full right now. My oil after about 4k miles on the dipstick measures right in the middle of the min and max dots, which it has been for as long as I've owned the car. So these levels are ok I think.
Now, I've read somewhere a while back that after changing the PCV valve or rather after taking the old one off that there still will be some residue to be burnt off. A way to get rid of that is to create a makeshift vacuum by plugging one end of the hose (the one that attaches to PCV valve) and leaving the PCV valve off while running the engine, putting some kind of cloth or similar over where the PCV valve should go to collect all the burnt stuff, thus cleaning the remainder out. Is it possible that this might be the a solution?
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ok so about a year ago and 7 thousand miles ago (abouts) I did a engine build and rebuild I had brand new injector cups, injectors (180/100's) and new o-rings......now I've got fuel in my coolant and smokes like a freight train in the mornings white/grey I believe (its dark) but never black smoke but not the smell of coolant like unburnt fuel truck starts up amazing at 10 degrees' when I had the machine shop building my heads for my stg 1 cam I had told them not to install my cups well they did anyways and used red locktite when I keep hearing and seeing recommended to use green and have used green in the past
I know most situations are cracked cup, cracked heads, my biggest question is ya think the red locktite will hold? And since the cups are new could it be a injector o-ring? dosent the fluids on the injector go botton to top (coolant-fuel-oil) and a bad oring mixing the two I did notice my fuel psi was sittin higher liker 75 psi iv lowerd it since then
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I have an 02 Eddie Bauer V8 AWD that is making a ticking noise at low speeds ( under 10mph ) on the pass. side. It sounds like a rock in a hubcap noise. I have pulled the wheels and checked the CV boots and they are fine.
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I was on 285 tonight in Atlanta and had a very hard time seeing because of all the white smoke. I thought some old GM car or Ford was billowing white smoke through the exhaust.
When I finally caught up to what was the cause I was shocked to see it was a Passat. A 2014 at that! 1.8 Turbo. I followed her into a Kroger Grocery store parking lot and parked as close as I could. She was unaware that her car was smoking out of her exhaust. I told her she needed to bring her car to the dealer asap and have them look at it. The white smoke was coming out of her exhaust even after she turned the motor off. She had no clue. I would say she was in her middle 70's age wise. It think she talked to me because I was in a Passat that "looked" like her car. Interesting to me to say the least. What could this possibly be?
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How do you remove the pcv valve on 2011 5.0l. I don't want to break it .
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I have a 2010 Ford F150 Lariat with 111000 miles on it and now I have a ticking noise under acceleration only and after reading some stuff on here that makes me believe that it is the cam phasers. The question I have is what kind of damage can this cause? Is this something that I can continue running with and does the noise get worse and if so how much worse?
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2014 Ecoboost... Have a tic at idle is this normal?
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