Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2014 - Hesitation / RPM Drop And Huge Puff Of Gray Smoke


Mar 18, 2016

2 days ago, and again twice today, I have had an issue when I need to change lanes and speed up, but when I hit the gas pedal (not flooring it, but significant pressure) I have had the car jerk 3 times while the rpm needle goes up to 6. Then the rpm drops to 2, the acceleration finally kicks in, and a huge puff of grey smoke makes the cars behind me completely disappear.

I've read threads about the smoke with the acceleration, but no one mentioned the jerking and not wanting to actually accelerate at first.
There are 33,000 miles on my car.

I called the dealership and they said it only sounds like it's an issue that something in the engine needs to be cleaned out, and they want to charge me $200 if that's the case.

Should something need to be cleaned out at only 33,000 miles? (mind you I also just had the dealership tell me I didn't need my 30,000 mile tune up yet after doing an inspection).

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Camry 2012+ :: 2GRFE / V6 - Huge Cloud Of Gray Smoke On Startup

Got a weird issue with my 2014.5 with 10k on it today, V6/2GRFE. On Wednesday I checked oil, it was at full drove it to Virginia to pick up a car and I followed it back 150 miles home, looked fine. Sat Thursday, let a family member drive it to work Friday, was fine. Saturday I drove it about 40 miles, was fine. Sunday I moved it around the driveway, was fine.

Today I started it and got a huge cloud of gray smoke out the back. Smoke continued while idling. Shut it off, got a family member to look at it (and make a video of it for future record). Basically on startup it lets out of a big puff of smoke (worse than my old V8 truck with leaky stem seals), then smokes lightly as it idles. Revved the engine and another puff came out, and the smoking did not stop. At this point I called up my dealer and wound up having it towed in as after about 3-5 minutes of running it was still smoking, as I'm under the impression burning synthetic oil is very bad for the emissions control system. Before leaving I let it cool back off, checked the oil and found it about halfway to 2/3rds between full and add on level ground. I did not let it warm all the way up to see what would happen over concern for damage.

Car is sitting at the dealer now, the manager said he'd try to see if they could get to it tomorrow (do have an appointment for Thursday); probably feel bad after the paint fiasco with the last one. Engine ran fine, seemed to be getting good fuel economy this tank, no CELS. I get that 1qt/1000 miles from break down/very minor burning is normal, but not this much smoke and nearly half a quart in 300 probably is not.

I'm also preparing for this to be difficult to pin down as first hand experience tells me oil burning can be a pain sometimes to troubleshoot, but my 91 Camry with 225k on it doesn't smoke like this, and typically valve stem seal seepage (which would be unacceptable though not serious) goes away quickly and presents much later in engine life. Not cold at all and had an oil burning smell to it for sure, but anyone have any normal expectations for what it could be? My 2012 2GR had 34k on it with zero oil use, burning or issues. If they say nothing my plan is to show them a video, and see what they say.

Pretty frustrated as I was liking this car more than my 2012; felt like it ran a little better, got a little better gas mileage, and road/drove a bit nicer too (probably the newer tires). Also had run into zero issues, whereas in the same span of ownership my 2012 already had one paint repair, a recall, and a brake light switch. Just had an oil change in June too at the dealer, verified the level was fine when I got it back, no leaks either.

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I have a 1997 Nissan pickup with 269000 mile on it when you first crank it up after sitting all night a puff of blue or white or gray smoke come out of the tail pipe.

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Dad has a 2010 F150 CC SB. it has the 5.4 in it. Ever since day one it has had a noticeable tick in the valve train. But it can only be heard inside the truck when there is no other noise... Open the hood and its not there. Ford dealer told dad that it was normal, and that the firewalls are just not thick enough where it gets really close to the engine and that the sound is transferred to the firewall.

NEXT question... Not always, but sometimes when the truck is started cold, it will puff white smoke.... Every time dad has had it at the dealer they say they cannot ever see it. Curious if any of your trucks have this issue, before I take it back there with again, asking to go start every truck on the parking lot listening for the tick and the smoke...

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For about the last two months I've noticed a significant drop in my gas mileage, I usually average anywhere from 20-26mpg depending how I drive, but lately even if I am cruising with the windows up no ac nothing I can't get better than about 18mpg.

Car has about 26xxx miles, evoms intake (which I cleaned out the filter thinking that may have been it) EJ exhaust and just got REVO flashed, but my mileage has been suffering prior to that.

I'm going to the dealer tomorrow for an oil change and spark plug replacement thinking maybe thats it, I've already had the recall done, and always use 91 octane (social area) what it may be?

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So I put one more extra quart or oil in accidently, and my car started being sluggish while trying to accelerate, no backfiring, just some gray smoke, then the smoke went away, and it stopped being sluggish, the boys at work are emptying out the oil right now, is this normal? Like, the car is working perfectly fine now...

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Elantra GD (2013+) :: Massive White / Gray Smoke On Acceleration

I have a 2013 GT and my wife a 2011 sedan.

[URL] .....

I've looked it up and didn't find any reports of it happening to the GT. (I admit I didn't look too hard!)

It happened to my wife's 2011 sedan when accelerating onto the highway. Just as described in the "massive smoke" thread. I couldn't see the car following behind me, the smoke was that bad. No exaggerating!

-- no check engine light
-- no change in temp
-- car drove fine immediately afterward (we babied it till we got home)
-- oil level and colour OK
-- coolant OK (overflow between lines)
-- next day car felt fine during full-throttle 80-120 km/h acceleration.
-- mentioned it at dealership, with service adviser, service manager and mechanic all listening to the story. They were stumped but offered to look at it. Adviser suggested a "BG Products fuel induction" treatment, which I'm assuming is bogus. (Haven't had a chance to check into it)

My web searching suggests the car had a "carbon blowout" cuz my wife rarely drives on the highway. I've heard of this but always thought it was just a myth. I mean, seriously, have you ever actually seen a car throw up a James Bond smokescreen just cuz it hadn't been driven hard? I'll betcha five bucks that if I took my mom's babied 1997 Camry onto the highway and floored it, nothing would happen. So what's up with the Elantra?

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Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: RPMs Suddenly Drop Off While Driving

2011 Sonata GLS, 95,000 miles.

This just started yesterday. While driving, the RPMS suddenly drop off. Depressing the gas pedal doesn't command any power output, even if I floor it, the RPMS continue decreasing and there is absolutely no power. The only way to keep moving is to completely release the pedal and then depress it again.

The transmission has been serviced twice by me and shifts smoothly. Should I plug a scan tool in ?

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I had a car with a motor mount issue once, which sounded similar. However, I actually had my motor swapped 5K ago, and my noise existed before that.

I have to get to the dealer (I believe 60K is the end of coverage for this kind of thing). I would like to have a little more info or suggestion of what to check, otherwise it will be "we don't hear anything."

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Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Hesitation And Valve Rattle When Going About 60 Mph

I just purchased my 2012 Sonata GLS about 2 weeks ago and had 64,000 miles on it. Put a few hundred miles on it around town without issue and then head out on a road trip and put about 750 miles on it when I had the issue. I was going about 60 mph and went to pass a semi and when I stepped on it the car started lurching, crazy valve rattle, and seemed to lose a lot of power. Got back behind the semi and babied it until I found a place to pull over and check it out. It was 2 quarts low on oil so I topped it off and it sounded fine, running smooth and no ticking or anything. Drove it around a bit and everything seemed fine and eventually got back on the highway and running fine. Pulled over after 100 miles and another 1/2 quart low, topped off.

Another 100 miles and another 1/2 quart, but running great with no issues. 150 miles from home and it happens again when I try to pass with the rattling valves and loss of power and I have to limp it to a gas station and now hearing the valve rattle and chugging on just a slight incline and going 20 mph. Get it towed 150 miles back to the Honda dealer where i purchased it from (long story) and their tech drove it and said he thought it needed a new motor since he barely made it back to the shop. They send it over to my local Hyundai dealer, and all of the sudden it is running great again! I go and drive with the tech and hammering on the throttle and it's running like a champ. I left it for him to drive home and they put 98 miles on it without issue. I picked it up yesterday and they said to bring it back if it happens again, but totally stumped as what it could be. They did start the oil consumption test so I will update when that is done.

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My Elantra is at 14k miles and it has happened twice now that the pipe has released white/grayish smoke when accelerating abruptly (pretty much forcing the engine) on the highway above 60mph. I can see in my mirror that it leaves a pretty big smoke screen behind me.

I took it for an inspection after the first time it happened and the mechanic said it might have just been steam and that I should not worry about it. Since my 15k maintenance check is coming up, I will ask that they actually check on it.

I'm also curious to know if this could cause me to get a ticket? I'm thinking I could get pulled over for "imparing the vision of drivers behind me and making it dangerous for them", or something like that.

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I have a 04 6.0l and all of a sudden it started dumping white/grey smoke at idle and when I drive it it goes to black then let off throttle and back to grey/white I had an up pipe leak at the y pipe I thought it might be an issue with that but I just got done fixing it and the problem still there so iam guessing it's either a sticky injector or the ficm but it starts up nice and does not knock around egr delete is don with all the goodies arp studs ect also the injectors have only 30k so it's hard to believe but iam just stumped haven't tested ficm yet and my tuner doesn't pick up any codes

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So, here is the newest problem. Yesterday I finished changing my body mount bushings (with Daystar polyurethane ones) and went for a test drive. When I started the engine, a smoke cloud caught my eye. I took a closer look and noticed it was a gray smoke. I jumped out and ran around to smell the smoke - it had a gas smell. I did not test for smoke after my test drive.

So here is my question. It is obviously burning excess fuel on startup. That would mean that one or more injectors are leaking down after shutdown, correct? Testing this would be done by performing a leakdown test? How do I go about doing this WITHOUT any special equipment?

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The next day when leaving camping it was the same thing. Took off and saw gray smoke and had little power. After about 1-2 miles all was well again. Truck has 202k miles. Recently replaced oil cooler, egr cooler has been welded shut at both ends, turbo has been cleaned and all the filters and fluids are new. I have a Scan Guage 2 and monitored the ficm voltage and it maintained 47 to 47.5 volts. I know 2 injectors had been replaced when I purchased it as well and the egr valve by a dealer(they said it showed the cooler was clogging but like I said it was welded shut). What I should look for?

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I'm the original owner and we have two of the same vehicles.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 - Loss Of Power / Gray Smoke

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Replaced fuel filter
New oil change and filter replacement, New icp sensor .
Deleted the baffle and installed a cone air filter with the air sensor installed in the neck .

I Was driving home one day and the truck just slumped into this huge power loss . Couldn't get over 2200 rpms and barely made it over 30-40 mph.

Truck in park - idles like crap and still won't go over 2200 rpms when holding the pedal to the floor . And it has what sounds like a miss at a struggling "full throttle" (22-2500) rpms - thought it could be my icp sensor - replaced it -- no change

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Now before all this happened - I noticed the truck had a bit of a gutlessness to it as I would be piddling around around town and it would have this hesitation in power kind of like a slight jerking feeling , now this truck was so gutless since the day I got it ,I couldn't even burn out on a gravel road without the throttle going limp and the check engine.

Light kicking in so I figured I'd give it a bit of hotshots secret and see if It would maybe flush the injectors but it really made no difference...

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New lift pump, cleaned the pickup tube, fuel bowl fills nice and fast, just had my edge attitude juice tuner removed since it was causing similar issues that went away for the last 2 months, changed my IPR and CPS (had a mechanic test everything when the tuner was taken out, all injectors buzzed good, sensors good)

When this first happened after the initial problem with the tuner was resolved, it did throw the CEL, but I have since been able to get it to come back on, and my buddies OBD2 scanner wasn't even registering my truck when I hooked up... Dare I say PCM is to blame?

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