Ford Excursion :: 2004 - Slow Crank When Sits For A While
Oct 22, 2014
2004 LTD 220K miles.
Starting to rust and trying to decide if its time to part with it. Runs perfect. But started having the slow crank when sits for a while. Yesterday would not start at work. Battery new. Volts test good when running. Alternator replaced before but could not tell you if it was 100K miles ago or 50K miles ago.
Anyway, started the look for drain process by putting multimeter in series in neg post. Drain is .135 A. Started the fuse pulling but every time I open door I have to wait a while for lights to go off and acc to turn off before it settles to .135A. Is there a way to trick the car into thinking doors are closed?
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
06 5.4 screw. This truck sits in the garage all week long as I drive a work van daily. When I take the truck out on the weekends it starts up normally at the house and when I stop someplace for a few minutes it starts right back up but if it sits for an hour or more it will crank over for 10-15 seconds, it does always start back up. It always runs and drives fine, it is all factory as far as the motor, intake, exhaust, tuner etc. What to do with it.
View 12 Replies
I know this is a ford truck site but today I was trying to clean some corrosion off my battery post on my ford fusion with water. Well when I went to crank it up it was slow to crank and it has absolutely no power, won't rev at all. From what I already knew, it seems like some moisture got in the distributor cap. Am I right and if I am were can I find the dang thing and how can I fix it?
View 3 Replies
Tried starting the Ex for the first time in two weeks and it won't start -- no starting problems before. Battery is 4 months old and fully charged. When I try to start it electrical power is there (gauges act normal) but no crank at all -- motor does not turn over. Its acting like a switch or some electrical connection is bad. I tried moving the gear selector around to make sure it is in Park....... also tried starting it in neutral but no luck.
View 4 Replies
Got 2004 v10 and my truck shifts hard into 2nd gear when starting off slow. If I take off at a faster pace it does not do it.
View 2 Replies
I am having some weird issues with my 2000 F150. When I turn the key all the dash lights go out and no start. Ran 2 wires from the solenoid to a switch and it will eventually start. The starter will start real slow almost like the battery is almost dead and then speeds up more and more till it eventually starts. After it starts the theft light stays on the whole time. At this point I have no clue what is going on.
View 1 Replies
Got 01 F350, 7.3
Started having issues with starter bogging down my batteries. Slow crank, it would catch anyway and runs great. I have spare used starter in the garage, threw that on and it cranks fast, but occasionally just free spins half way thru the cranking.
My question is, can I make one good starter from these two? Monday AM buyer is coming to get my truck, and I don't want to have to buy brand new starter if I can avoid it, but I want him to have reliable used starter.
What causes free spinning (not flex plate related), and what causes power drag and slow crank? I was thinking throw solenoid from fast starter onto slow one, since slow one doesn't spin out but it bogs down my voltage?
View 1 Replies
I have 2001 F250 7.3L 261k miles.
Over the last few months, I have noticed that my truck is taking longer & longer to start after sitting for a long time (i.e. every morning, after work, etc.) When the problem first started (3-4 months ago) it would crank for 2 seconds & nothing so I would turn it off, let the "wait to start" light go off again (depending on outside temp 10-20 seconds) & then it would crank & usually fire right over like it was new. That seemed to happen only in the morning when it was 70 degrees or colder outside but no problem after work when it was 80+ degrees.
As the weather has gotten colder, it has gotten progressively worse. A couple of weeks ago, it was in the 40s in the morning & it took a solid 8 or 9 minutes of cranking for a few seconds, then trying again before it started. Once it started it did "chuga chug" a couple of times before it smoothed out. Last week when it was 16 degrees in the morning, it wouldn't start at all. I tried for a solid 15 minutes before I gave up.
I will say that as it has gotten worse over the last couple of months, I have noticed that it's cranking w/o firing but I will hear it fire once or twice per crank before it will fire up & run. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. No studders, stalls, slow acceleration, etc. Pulls like it always has. The weirdest part about it is that once it starts & runs for 30-60 seconds, I can shut it off & it'll fire right up every time. If I get it up to full operating temperature, I can go back & start it right up 2 or 3 hours later w/o a problem.
I did notice my oil cooler is leaking pretty badly (that will be fixed this weekend) & my valley has fluid in it but it's hard to tell if it's diesel, oil or a combination of the two because my truck is setup to run on WMO (waste motor oil). I have dual tanks so the OEM tank is diesel & the auxillary tank is WMO. I have 2 mechanical fuel pressure gauges on my fuel bowl, 1 pre & 1 post fuel filter as well as an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump. The fuel pressure when running on WMO has always bounced a little bit between (65-75 psi) but the fuel pressure on diesel has always held solid at 75 psi until recently when I have noticed that it flutters a very small amount between 73-75 psi.
I have verified that the GP Relay works & was leaning towards a glow plug problem but considering it was having troubles at 70 degrees ambient temperature, I'm hesitant to think that's the true problem. I think that might just be adding to the problem. I live in the south so my truck doesn't have a block heater but I'm going to add one this weekend when I replace the oil cooler gaskets & o-rings.
I'm also going to pick up a new Android tablet today (replace my broken one) so I can use the Torque Pro app to monitor ICP, HPOP & InjPW. Finally, I had a DP Tuner chip on it & to remove that as the possible cause, I removed it & the same symptoms continued.
View 14 Replies
Ok, so my 2007 F150 Lariat super crew cab has been at the dealership for a week now with them claiming that a part is on back order. How hard is it for them to get in a right front axle?? Granted, it was in there for other stuff too (which they can not give me a straight answer on if they fixed or not cause they are claiming the technician hasn't done the write up on it yet). My main concern is that they are screwing me around or that something happened to my truck. I am planning on stopping by there on Wed. morning after I get out of work.
Are these trucks known for bad front axles or was there some kind of a big recall on them?
Other things it went in for was the radio having the CD's cycle through when you first start up the truck, but does not happen like that all the time. Black plastic driver side front door hinge is cracked exposing the metal reinforcing part. Whirring/bearing type noise when you first start up the truck when it is cold and sits overnight (which they claim they can't hear yet waited to bring the truck inside and check it out at 3PM when they had the truck overnight from the night before when I dropped it off.) and the front driveshaft not fully disengaging when the truck is in 2wd. Almost seems like the vacuum locking hubs are still engaged.
View 8 Replies
If I leave my truck sit for a couple of days, the batteries are noticeably weaker. It's fine overnight, but two nights and it's slow to crank. Three and it won't start without charging the batteries. I checked for a drain last night and found that it was drawing 1.2 amps.
That seems like a lot, no?
View 14 Replies
This may sound strange but when it's been cold my windshield wipers have been moving more slowly than normal. is this a sign of the motor needing replacement or is this normal?
View 4 Replies
Ok - I admit, I don't have a good description of what's going on, but it's not normal. When I accelerate slowly, or go up a hill, I'm hearing a "rattling" sort of noise that did not used to be there. I have heard it also when slowly decelerating.
I need to crawl under and look, but my big concern is I'm about to go on a 2000 mile trip with a small horse trailer. Could this be a festering major engine, transmission, or otherwise problem?
View 7 Replies
I have a 2007 Dodge Charger. Battery light came on, I had AAA come out to me to test everything because I didn't want to be stranded just in case the car died while I was out doing errands.
I forget the name, but he connects it to the battery. It tested the alternator, battery and the starter. Turns out, the alternator had an open diode. Battery was in good shape and the starter too.
I ordered a battery, and had to wait to get it installed because my mechanic was busy working on a whole bunch of other cars. So I had to use the whining alternator for a whole week before I could get the new one in.
But he got it installed. And put everything back together where it should be (I think). He told me to start the car. It started up beautifully! No troubles at all.
A couple days later, it started to struggle cranking to start. Taking into account the battery and starter are good and the alternator is like-new (refurbished). I do not understand why it's having issues.
There's no battery light on. Why would it, a couple days later, start having an issue? Could my mechanic have not fully connected wires to the alternator? When loosening the idle arm to loosen the belt, could the have messed with the timing?
View 19 Replies
I have a vacuum leak. That's clear. When I put the truck in 4WD the air vents to the defrost after a slow (15-20 s) transition. The only way I can get the air to come back to the dash vents is to disengage 4x4. Of course, the auto-lockers aren't working. I can trouble shoot the vacuum lines and find the leak. No big deal.
I've isolated it downstream of the vacuum reservoir. It could be the PVH solenoid but at least the reservoir side holds pressure.
My concern is the noticeably poor A/C performance. It cycles between kinda cool and kinda warm. I remember the A/C being ice cold a few weeks ago.
Could the vacuum leak in 4x4 vacuum lines be related to the A/C problems? I'm thinking blend door vacuum issues. But I can't even find the blend door vacuum lines.
How do I know if my blend door is fully open/closed? Are there any other place to look that can cut down on my troubleshooting?
View 4 Replies
I did look but couldn't find. So the locks work like a bullet when using the remote. However, they...especially the passenger side door locks are slow. Passenger side struggles to move at all on some occasions.
View 13 Replies
Periodically my X doesn't want to start. Doesn't even turn over or crank. The weird thing is, sometimes it acts like the battery is too weak and the radio will flash on or maybe I hear a fast kink-kink-kink sound. Other times, it's just dead, like it doesn't even have a battery in it. Eventually it works again and cranks like a charm. Starts right up.
The ground from the battery to the fender looks good. I noticed the ground from the frame to the body was gone, so I replaced that. Didn't change a thing. I'm reading all the things it COULD be and I'm getting frustrated. I hate electrical problems.
2000 V10 Excursion XLT, 180,000 miles
View 6 Replies
My Excursion didn't start the other day. It would barely crank. A new Interstate battery was installed about a year ago.
I jumped it and it fired right up. I went inside and left it running for about 20 minutes.
The next day I started it up and drove about 5 miles. I noticed whenever I was braking both the audio and lights on the radio would cut out.
It sat for about 4 hours and then wouldn't start again. I jumped it again and stood next to it while it was warming up.
I noticed the interior lights got dim, the radio cut out again, and then the entire gauge cluster went crazy. The needles were jumping around and would then shut off, then jump around again. Whenever I increased the RPMs the problems would stop.
I got home and it sat for about an hour. I tried to start it again and it would barely crank.
I'm trying to avoid a trip to the parts store to have the alternator tested since I'll have to jump it again... and worse, I could get stuck on the side of the road if it completely dies.
I'm guessing the alternator is shot. Could it be anything else?
View 14 Replies
Still haven't found out the problem with excursion quitting it has stopped for good this time cranks but wont start, fuel pump and filter have been replaced shop said it was going bad, sent to dealer twice no fix.
2000, XLT, V10, 150k, 4X4 .....
View 3 Replies
I have a 1999 Gmc Truck 1500 5.0 v8. Notice my truck starting heavy..like a low battery or something. This started getting worse over the week till the point where it cranks real slow. So i bought a new battery. Installed battery and still the same issue...slow crank like it wants to lock up. So i removed starter and notice some wear on the fly wheel so i replaced flywheel. Still the same thing! So this week i bought a new starter and guess what same issue. What is cause for a slow crank.
View 11 Replies
I bought a well-used 1991 Buick Century for my son in December '12. At that point I put in a battery that was bought brand new just the month before. The car ran fine until a couple weeks ago. He tried to start it but only got a slow crank, like a low battery. I tried to jump start it, with no difference. Since the car was at his school, I asked his auto shop teacher to take a look at it. The teacher tested the battery on two different machines and determined the battery was bad. I returned it to the store I bought it at, where it was tested as working fine. I then swapped the battery from my car for his, and his battery (the one that was tested bad) started my car with no problems while my battery would not start his car. It produced the same slow crank. I talked to the shop teacher again, who pulled the starter and took both the starter and the battery to various auto parts stores. The starter tested good, but the battery was tested bad at 3 shops, and weak at a fourth. So the car is still sitting at the school, and we're at a loss. What might be causing this problem and how can we get his car running again, short of just buying another car?
View 6 Replies
The car basically struggles to crank. Today it failed to completely start. It took multiple tries at turning the key to get it kick and each time the car would chug until it started.
About a month ago, the dealership said she needed a new battery when she took her car in for an oil change. They told her at that time that they found the car to take longer than normal to crank and wanted to charge $80 for a battery, sale price (normally $150 at dealership). She declined at the time.
When I used the car since then it cranked fine, about a good 3-4 seconds. We had the battery tested at discount auto and they found the battery to work fine and out-put more than enough cranking amps.
Last week she was away for a few days and had the car sit untouched. But when she came back she went on a small 100+mile road trip with the car and it ran fine. And when she came back from that, she took the car to do some errands around town. Today, the car took much longer than usual to fully start.
I don't think it's the battery. Possibly something with ignition. Engine turns over, so it is getting adequate power from the battery to the starter. Engine doesn't misfire. No engine-lights on the dashboard, nothing.
2011 Sonata 2.4L
View 10 Replies
