Ford Excursion :: Odd Noise On Slow Acceleration / Deceleration


Jun 5, 2012

Ok - I admit, I don't have a good description of what's going on, but it's not normal. When I accelerate slowly, or go up a hill, I'm hearing a "rattling" sort of noise that did not used to be there. I have heard it also when slowly decelerating.

I need to crawl under and look, but my big concern is I'm about to go on a 2000 mile trip with a small horse trailer. Could this be a festering major engine, transmission, or otherwise problem?

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Ford Excursion :: 2001 - Acceleration Pulls Left / Deceleration Pulls Right

2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)

All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.

When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.

I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Howling Noise At 35 Mph And Above - Stops On Heavy Acceleration And Deceleration

02J-EGT 5spd. OEM axles.

Sounds like it's coming from the front. I noticed a few months ago my inner passenger CV boot was cracked, put motor mount spacers in which should have hopefully brought that axle up to okay standards. My initial reaction is to say the howling is from that CV joint however it's very odd it only happens after 35 and when I'm not heavy accelerating or deaccelerating- only when holding the car at a constant speed.

This also came after doing the TDI 5th. I notice it a little bit after passing 35mph in 3rd but really can hear it in 4th/5th when the engine revs drop. Am I right in thinking CV boot? Or transmission internal?

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My daughter has a 2010 Elantra 4-dr 74k

In the last few days, a new sound has appeared. It is hard to describe, sometimes squeaky, sometimes sound like a vacuum leak or air bypass.

It seems to steering related in conjunction with acceleration/deceleration. It only occurs when the wheel is being turned to the left, whether for a left turn or returning to center from a right turn. The noise seems to come from the center/center left of the firewall area.

It only does this while in motion, I couldn't replicate the issue with the car running but in Park.

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I have a 1986 Ford Ranger that the battery light comes on and all lights get bright at 900 rpm on acceleration, and all lights dim and light goes off at 900 rpm on deceleration. I have replaced the battery, alternator and starter since getting the truck. I have also run ALL the wiring and found only 2 breaks which were repaired. I have had to replace headlights 3 times in two weeks, due to them blowing.

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When I slow down to come to a stop, my 2006 Pontiac Solstice lurches. Sometimes this is very scary as it is a hard lurch, sometimes it is just a slight lurch. The engine light is on. I have taken it in for this problem previously and the problem goes away but it has been acting up for the last few months.

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2004 F350 single rear wheel with 8" suspension (springs) lift and 37" tires all put on in 2005. Having low speed vibration 15-20 mph on accel and decel. Recently put on thick aluminum rear dif cover and vibration seems to have come since that install. Used Mobile synthetic fluid and 4 oz of Motorcraft antifriction additive and 4 oz of off brand. The Mobile fluid and antifriction have been in my barn for over 5 years in the winter and summer. I just changed the carrier bearing and all U-joints look good. Any chance the fluid and antifriction additive could be causing this? Truck has 66k miles.

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Unlike Ap24, who has a post/thread about his CONSTANT noise under acceleration, mine is only happening once. For instance say I'm sitting at a stop light, and start accelerating, it's almost like the body shifts backwards. When I come to a stop and jab the brakes a little, its like it shifts forward. My dad seems to think it is the U joint.. but i'm not convinced as it does it on deceleration.

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Alright so car is a 13 R, bolt ons, c2 stage 2+. Drove the car yesterday morning all was good. Did an oil change and fixed my cts DV (the top nozzle had popped out, i glued around it as cts had suggested to hold it in place). At first the car was making an odd "weeee ooooo" sound on accel/decel. I went home, rechecked all couplers, vacuum hoses etc. then went for another drive, there is absolutely no boost. Car drives likes its naturally aspirated, no attempt to even go into boost just nothing. Ran vag com, no codes.

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2001 v10 ... I have a thumping noise under acceleration... also hear it if brake torquing.. I do not hear the sound if in park or neutral...while riding down road the sound goes away when you let of the gas. Torque converter has been replaced.... exhaust manifold bolts are ok too. Been to 3 places and no one can seem to pin point it or no where to begin...

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I just bought a used 2004 3.5l automatic Santa Fe. The vibration is most noticeable from 35 - 40mph during acceleration and deceleration. It's there at higher speeds but the car doesn't physically vibrate as much.

The vibration is there with the car coasting and transmission in neutral. It's there with the car coasting and the motor off.

The tires and wheels have been swapped out with other wheels and tires. No change.

The front driveshaft U-joint has been replaced. No change.

It seems to be in the drivetrain somewhere. I would like to fix it without slowly replacing everything.

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Last week i started to notice that my gti clicks on moderate acceleration, and again if I let off and using engine braking. I can only hear it with the windows down, and it seems to be coming from front of the car. My first thought is that the axle bolts might be loose, or I have a failing CV joint. I re-torqued to 70nm, and could not budge for the 90 degrees after that. So, they are tight - possibly too tight?

I've read a bunch of threads on relay clicks, etc., and do not think that's whats going on here. I'll double check tomorrow, and see if it's the 1000 rpm relay click. What this might be, or how to definitively know whether it is / is not the CV's? I'd be fairly surprised if the CV's are dying - I do not drive this car hard or beat on it at all, and generally keep it out of boost around town.

Details on car - '10, MT, about 30k. Koni coils at about 24.5" ftg, APR stg II, B&B TBE, all with about 15k on them.

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I bought it used with 65,000 miles on it. I'm not sure what was done before that as far as maintenance/preventative maint. I did get a transmission flush three years ago (don't know the mileage at that time). I don't think this will impact things in any way, but I just changed the spark plugs and wires a few weeks ago.

It has a rough/shuddery idle (but doesn't feel like it's goign to stall out) and seems to be riding rougher than usual lately. I feel it more in the seat/overall car vibrations than through the steering wheel.

Transmission Oil Pump? Planetary Gear Set? I was really hoping to not have an expensive repair, but I am fearing the worst.

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I have been using my Elantra 2016 since end of last year. It has mostly been like this since the last few months and lately it has increased. Also, lately my fuel economy hasn't been great as well. Why my Elantra has been behaving like this?

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My wife and I just bought a pre-owned 08 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 60,000 miles that just started to make a whistle sound on initial acceleration and deceleration when the engine is warm and the transmission is in gear and moving. The sound does not happen with a cold engine, when the transmission is in park, or neutral. A local mechanic checked it for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. He thought it may be a dirty throttle body, so I cleaned that out really well, but the whistle didn't go away (it did make the jeep run a lot smoother!). It's difficult to pinpoint the noise since it only happens when the vehicle is actually moving.

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