When I slow down to come to a stop, my 2006 Pontiac Solstice lurches. Sometimes this is very scary as it is a hard lurch, sometimes it is just a slight lurch. The engine light is on. I have taken it in for this problem previously and the problem goes away but it has been acting up for the last few months.
View 1 RepliesI have a 06 Pontiac Solstice. In hot weather the air bag warning light comes on. The temperature usually has to be near 90. My local mechanic has no ideas. The dealer says to bring it in while it is showing the alert. Hard to do.
View 3 RepliesMy 2003 Honda Civic Hybrid has lurched for over a year now. The dealership has run tests and can't seem to figure it out -- though my budget has only allowed them to take a look at it 2 or 3 times.
Things I know:
* lurches are accompanied by RPM fluctuations
* only lurches at slow speeds (under 30 mph?)
* only lurches on a slow, steady deceleration -- does not lurch in acceleration or quick deceleration
* dealership replaced O2 sensor; had no effect
* Jiffy Lube flushed oil and (I think) transmission fluid systems; had no effect
* previous owner did not perform regular maintenance; missed oil changes, etc.
* lurching seemed to get really bad last summer, getting progressively worse until the car died on the road. The nearest mechanic said I was out of oil (which surprised me because I had changed the oil maybe 2 months prior?
)* lurching can be minimized by turning off AC/heat
Things that MIGHT be playing a part? seems like it gets worse in summer heat. Definitely still happens in winter though, so this may be my imagination.
Sometimes when you slow down for an exit and then step on the gas pedal, it lurches like it skipped a gear. Or sometimes is sounds like you're pressing the gas pedal while in neutral and then it kicks into gear with a lunging forward. What do I need to do?
View 2 Replies97 Outback, 143 K, auto. 2.2. When in a tight turn in a parking lot or doing a U turn, the car lurches, like my p.u. does when in 4 wheel drive. Not as strongly, but it does not feel right. There is no CV joint noise, tires seem equally worn. The seller says it is tires, my experience with 5 different soobs says no and I never carefully match tire wear, ( I do not replace all 4)If it is not tires, what might it be?
View 11 RepliesOne thing that makes me nervous is the slow deceleration of the c at high speeds. My commute to work is an hour on the highway.
View 4 RepliesOk - I admit, I don't have a good description of what's going on, but it's not normal. When I accelerate slowly, or go up a hill, I'm hearing a "rattling" sort of noise that did not used to be there. I have heard it also when slowly decelerating.
I need to crawl under and look, but my big concern is I'm about to go on a 2000 mile trip with a small horse trailer. Could this be a festering major engine, transmission, or otherwise problem?
I have a 2006 Saab 9-3. Whenever I come to a stop and press the accelerator it is slow to accelerate. The check engine light is on, too. The rpm's do not rev up and the car slowly creeps by then eventually will start to get going. I took it in to the mechanic and they told me I need a new throttle body which they just put in. The car worked when I drove it home. Then after a couple of days it is doing the same thing.
View 6 Replies2006 pontiac g6 radio stop working after shop wiped engine & dashboard. Changed fuse and still nothing...
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 Passat 2.0T wagon. I got gas this am, and on my 30 minute drive to work all was fine until I got into traffic or came to a stop sign. While at the stop sign the car started to lurch forward or even seemed to be up and down. The idle was fine, completely constant. It was like the car was hopping or wanting to push forward. It did not happen in reverse or neutral and the car was fine while driving. What this could be?
View 4 RepliesDropped my car off at the shop due to the transmission lag from stop to slow speeds. Sometimes it feels like I was dragging sandbags. Then all of a sudden the car wakes up and goes.
The shop said the fluid "looks" fine but seems to think there might be too much fluid in it. So here we go with a transmission service. I hope this fixes it.
My wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
I drive a 2006 Saturn Ion standard transmission with 93000 miles on it. Lately it has been randomly lurching, almost as if it is stalling. This happens when the car is in gear, not during shifting, and is not isolated to any particular gear. The check engine light will flash, but does not stay on and doesn't report a code. The local GM dealer replaced the ignition switch module (which they said failed and reported a code), but the lurching recurred within a couple days. I've had the car back to the dealership and they swear they've checked everything it could possibly be and everything looks good to them.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Pontiac Vibe and recently have had problems...after I drive 15-20 minutes the car will begin to slow down...even if I give it more gas the car will stay a constant speed...say 30 mph and will not go faster...if I down shift..(manual trans)... I can get the car back to normal speed...and sometimes it smells hot when I get out...like brakes....on the highway the car will begin to slow as well and stay at 45...then come back after downshift..
View 16 RepliesWill start with the back story, i have a 2007 G6 V6 that had a slow leak in the radiator. I kept it full and it only went higher than normal once but i noticed it right away and didn't let the needle peg at hot so I've kept it full, checking it every time I went somewhere. the other day on my way to work the needle pegged at hot and the temp light came on so i pulled over right away and shut the car off and let it cool for an hour and added some more coolant. started it up again and the temp stayed normal for a minute so i tried to get it back to the house when the needle pegged, i lost power and the check engine light came on. i stopped the car and called a tow and while waiting on the tow truck my battery died and all i had running was the hazards. the only thing I noticed was the leak in the radiator had gotten worse.
After I got it home and let it sit for 5-6 hours i got a jump from my neighbor and I noticed I wasn't getting any circulation, the reservoir was still full, the check engine light came on and stayed on, and within a minute or two the temp was rising fast so i shut it off and haven't touched it since except to check the oil which looks, smells, and feels fine and is at the proper level and didn't see any oil floating around the overflow tank. and while the car was hot I didn't see any smoke or steam coming from anywhere aside from the leak in the radiator, the water pump pulley was spinning fine, no whining or whirring sounds. i did notice that the plastic piece where the metal overflow line attaches to the engine was badly cracked but wasn't leaking.
I'm thinking maybe the water pump went out and/or the thermostat is stuck closed and caused the overheating issue. as far as the check engine light goes, could that cracked plastic piece cause the check engine light to stay on?not sure if there's a sensor involved in that or not. or could it be the low coolant sensor causing it as the block has no coolant in it?
1999 3.l L Pontiac Grand Prix. All was well until I had the Intake manifold seals replaced. They said the coils were rusty, so they were replaced along with spark plugs and wires. The car would then (at times) crank a little bit longer before starting. When I took it back, they said the fuel pump pressure was low, so it was replaced, but the problem persisted. This has been going on for about 3.5 years now, so not a fatal problem, but getting worse this fall.
I've had it in to 2 local garages that I trust and 2 local gm dealers, without any luck fixing it. Some say the fuel pump pressure is on the low end of normal, but I've been reluctant to have another put in. Lately, seems like when the car sits for several hours it either cranks longer to start or will almost start, but need to be cranked again. Seems like I'm either not getting enough fuel or perhaps too much?In the interim, I've had to replace a crank sensor and last week the transmission. Neither has had any impact on the starting issue, no surprise.
I will try my best to describe the problem:When the car sits for quite a few hours it basically will try to fire up , but can take 4,5,6 seconds before it will actually start. It is a fast turn over just as if your car was going to start normally, but it just takes time. This is not a slow turn over as in a battery problem, or a very cold weather thick oil problem.After the car starts the initial time, you can turn it off and start it and it fires right up.
When I turn the key to the on position, I can hear the Fuel Pump. I have tried doing this a few times in a row, but it doesn't work for the initial start.
This has been going on for about 8 months, and I have basically ignored the problem. The last few starts the same issue persisted except instead of firing up after 4,5,6 seconds it just shuts off. After this I turn the key over and it still fires right up.
2007 G6 Problem occurs at slow speed with sharp turning, such as coming out or into the driveway. As the steering rack moves slowly it tends to stick and release 3 or 4 times when turning sharply at very slow speed. It makes a sound so loud even the passenger cam hear it and the driver can feel it in the steering wheel. Does occur while driving normally. The dealer says its a GM problem with no real correction. They greased the rack and said the problem would return soon, but it is not a safety problem. So far they have been right on both counts. Are there any real cures?
View 5 RepliesDoes it harm the emergency brake to use it instead of the foot brake to slow while gliding into a parking spot?
View 19 RepliesRecently my wifes 2009 Sonata limited has started having a hard "clunk" when braking. It feels like a hard shift from 3rd to 2nd (or 1st?) during deceleration. Only really occurs when moderately cold and only during the first 10 miles or so of travel. What I should check?
View 4 Replies2006 Sonata GLS V6, 105K miles
I have a weird rubbing/grinding noise that seems to be coming from the front, passenger side of my car. It's a very weird rubbing/grinding noise, almost rubber like, but somewhat metallic. I recently got new tires and almost thought it had something to do with that, but that seems unlikely.
When decelerating from about 20 to 15 mph, the noise starts. It's a cyclic noise that is proportional to the speed of the car. It occurs while going in a straight line or while turning, but gets significantly louder in a turn. It instantly stops as soon as I hit the accelerator at any point.
Another important fact is that the noise does not happen when the car is cold. You have to drive about 5-10 minutes for it to start.
I just bought new KYB shocks/struts that I planned to install (probably not myself although I am tempted), so now is probably a good time to dig into the problem. I replaced brake pads and turned the rotors within the last year. I wouldn't be surprised if the suspension needs some additional TLC as I have not replaced any components and have owned it since it had 13K on the odometer.