Passat (B6) :: A/C Slow To Blow Cool Air At Slow Speed Or Come To A Stop
Mar 12, 2013
My wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
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2006 F250 6.0L CC Lariat with Climate Control
- 1st Start in morning, AC Blows cold.
- Run it down the Interstate AC Blows cold.
- Get back into traffic, slow speed, low RPM, AC doesn't cool.
Is this likely the clutch going South or low Freon perhaps? At higher RPMs, 1000+ seems to work good. At idle, when hot, not so much. Just looking for possibilities.
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My 97 Saturn SC1 dies as I slow to stop. It will restart but the RPM goes very high for a little while before it drops back down to normal. What do I need to do to fix it?
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I recently bought an'08 Base model. It is making a creaking noise in the front end on the left side either behind the wheel or under the motor. It only does it when taking off from a stop and/or turning mainly to the right during slow speed, seems to be when the body weight is shifting. To me it sounds as though something needs greased or maybe a strut.
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Looking at a truck at a dealership. 04 F150 Lariat 5.4 3v? 2wd SuperCrew 148k miles. Bone stock besides the bedliner.
Truck is pretty nice besides these 4 things. Kind of a shudder when taking off from a stop or a very slow speed. Adjustable pedals don't work.
New brakes, but possibly the rears are dragging a bit. Was able to turn them in neutral and the rear on jacks. Extra, guessing because of the newer looking battery, some systems lack data from the OBD2
I'm mainly concerned about the shudder from a complete stop/1-2mph. At the dealer, to leave the lot, the driveway was elevated. I think it showed very well climbing that hill. As it was noticed and played with the gas a bit. Otherwise, you stomp the gas, it may shudder for a second or two, (3-5 times?) once it hits about 3000 rpm in 1st, its fine. Only ever seemed to do it in 1st and never any other gear, never on any gear changes.
We lifted the rear end up on a jack and fiddled around. Put it in neutral and spun the wheels, tried to mess with the drive shaft... According to dad, who was looking at it with me said it was fine and that it's normal to have a little bit of slop, but I didn't notice any real slop myself, tried to push on the driveshaft on the transmission side and I think it may have moved a bit but it didn't feel loose or clang or anything. Although I didn't get to push on it too hard because he was rotating the driveshaft at the time.
I assume new fluids in engine and trans. My dad said something about old oil marks on the transmission pan area or something. Both to the fill line.
One thing that I wonder about is how long this truck has been sitting. I wonder about the differential clutches. I'm not that sure what it really has for the rear end. But google had mention of clutch packs in the rear. I wonder if because it's been sitting that the oil has settled out of the clutches or something. There was a mess of silicon on the rear diff cap area. Couldn't tell if it was new or not. I think we put 10-20 miles on it at least and only looked under it for maybe a half hour... Still did the clunk/shudder at a start from a stop, when we returned it.
So, what could be causing this clunk/chatter when talking off from a stop/1-2mph roll?
Axle wrap?
Differential Clutches?
Differential?
Driveshaft?
Transmission?
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My family has had this car for a long time. It worked fine for years but in the past year it has had some problems when starting. Sometimes the car starts fine, sometimes it won't start until you re-try a few times, sometimes it won't start and you can try over and over and it never does. When it doesn't start, it doesn't do anything at all, no sound or anything. The battery is not dead, the car has more than half a tank of gas. Recently, the car started fine, but after driving it for a while, we stopped at a stop light.
When we tried to accelerate after the stop, the car died, during the acceleration and a left turn. We got the car going again after trying a few times, but later that same trip, the car died again when accelerating, but this time it was from a slow speed, not a stop and it was while we were driving straight. The car is well taken care of (oil changes, check the oil, do not let it get to under a quarter of a tank, change transmission filter & oil, air filter, brakes, etc.) The timing chain is permanent, stainless steel. We do not drive very much but we are afraid to now that we don't know if it will die while we are driving.
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I have 2008 VR6 4 motion wagon with about 98K miles. It has been relatively trouble free and I love the car. To try and make it last I am trying to stay on top of maintenance. I had a VW warranty until 72K and got several things fixed along the way. But, I had asked about the one weird thing it does well before it went out of warranty to no avail ("no trouble found").
The weird thing is that sometimes it sort of stutters when I slow down from a high rate of speed quickly, like exiting a freeway. I described it to my new mechanic (no longer beholden to the dealership mechanics) when I was speculating a new transmission might be in order at some point and he said it was probably an issue with the program that tells the transmission when to downshift and to ask about a software update. I did; none available.
Is it firmware related, how to get it fixed?
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Two weeks ago A/C was slow to cool down on and blowing warm air for several minutes; works fine since then. One week ago, check engine light came on. At the dealership now, they say it the check engine light is for the clutch heater and this would also relate to problem with a/c not cooling properly. Waiting to hear what repairs will cost. Is this OK to continue driving? What exactly is going on? Does this part need to be replaced? Should we just tape over the icon on the instrument panel to avoid looking at the pesky light?
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I've gotten it a couple of times lately while turning at slow speed. The first guess is always the CV joint/boot - but wouldn't that be multiple pops?
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My 2008 Avalon A/C fan speed periodically won't run at the highest speed. When I take it off of "auto", I can step up the fan speed and see the segments on the display light up with each increase in speed. Each segment lights up (they are in a oval shape) indicating that it should be at the highest speed, but it just doesn't seem to blow as hard as it used to.
I think this fan motor is controlled by a PWM controller rather than resistors. Is that correct and where I could find the PWM controller? My thought was that if it was not too expensive I would change that out first. If the fan works, could there be a problem with the fan motor?
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At any speed my car likes to slow down a bit then go back up to speed... feels like little mini lurches. Why... dirty fuel injectors?
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So, I just noticed this happening about a month ago and it's been occurring more frequently. Whenever I'm turning (left or right) and moving at a very slow speed (1 - 5mph), I feel a binding and sometimes I hear a slipping sound (that's the best that I can describe it). When I hear this sound, it feels like the Touareg's gears or center differential is slipping. What it is? If so, was the dealer able to resolve it quickly?
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I have a 2006 Saab 9-3. Whenever I come to a stop and press the accelerator it is slow to accelerate. The check engine light is on, too. The rpm's do not rev up and the car slowly creeps by then eventually will start to get going. I took it in to the mechanic and they told me I need a new throttle body which they just put in. The car worked when I drove it home. Then after a couple of days it is doing the same thing.
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I have a 1984 VW Rabbit, 4 cyl., 5 spd, that chokes off when I slow down to stop....
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Having a problem with the ABS activating when it shouldn't. I happens whenever I slow down to a near stop. Sometimes the ABS and ASR light comes on and it's not a problem, but I ain't got no abs.
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I'm having issues filling up my gas tank; I can't pump gas at full speed, not even at the slower setting that you can set the pump to. It just clicks off like it's full. When I pull the gas pump out i can see some gas has collected and it takes time to drain down the pipe. In order to fill the tank I have to hold the pump so it pumps slowly. It seems to be worse during hot weather; and the severity of it varies.
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I'm on my second A1 Cardone rack & pinion in six months. The first one had bad outer tie rod ends and this one is very hard to turn at slow speed like pulling out of a parking space. I would highly recommend using a ACDelco rack & pinion.
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When I come to traffic and slow down, I have this jerky feeling when I'm coming to a stop. It's not from my brake or transition from gear changing. It's repetition of jerky feeling, not like one jerk from second to first gear.
For example, I'm in my first gear and stopped on the road. If I release the brake pedal and do NOT press gas, my car slowly moves forward with this jerky pulsation. It also makes noise (well.. I can hear it through my exhaust) while it moves. It feels like car is about to move, then stops, then moves, then stops.... I don't really get this when I apply gas.
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2015 Hyundai Sonata limited Kumho Tire Wobbling at Slow Speed 10-20 MPH
Bought a brand new 2015 Hyundai Sonata limited from Hyundai of Kirkland, Kirkland WA on Aug 30th, 2015 and started noticing wobbling issue.
Checked Wheel balancing/alignment and have visited Hyundai service center 5 times so far and they give me the standard answer, you car drives as expected.
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I have a 2001 Elantra gls which I bought a year ago. It had shifting problems from 2nd to 3rd gear with CEL on. I replaced the input and output speed sensors and connectors and fixed the problem to a point. It was still shifting a little hard even after a fluid change with SP111. I added 2 bottles of Lubeguard red and it has worked immensely almost to the point of no problems....except. At slow speed shifting like going into a store parking lot or on a freeway with stop and go traffic, it will shift hard from 2nd to 3rd (I think) maybe 1st to 2nd not sure. If accelerating at normal speed shifts fine. No cel and the tranny fluid is on the full mark, not overfilled. Would a wheel speed senso cause this or damaged clutch pacs maybe?.
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2005 hyundai accent, I've noticed something unusual with my trans, whenever I start driving at lower speeds ( which I do all the time to save gas) the transmission shifts into 2nd and 3rd just fine, but in 3rd gear ( at around 2.5 rpm ) the RPM gage goes down a little bit ( about 2.1 rmp), it almost feels like it went into 4th gear and it happens really smooth, it almost feels like its supposed to do that, the car later shifts into 4rd at around 3 rpm, there's no jerking, stalling or sounds at all, this does NOT happen when I take off at a higher speed and acceleration. This transmission has 55.000 miles on it and besides this it works perfectly fine.
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