2006 F250 6.0L CC Lariat with Climate Control
- 1st Start in morning, AC Blows cold.
- Run it down the Interstate AC Blows cold.
- Get back into traffic, slow speed, low RPM, AC doesn't cool.
Is this likely the clutch going South or low Freon perhaps? At higher RPMs, 1000+ seems to work good. At idle, when hot, not so much. Just looking for possibilities.
Ive had this 2009 F250 4x4 Super Crew, 6.4 for 2 years now. Bought it the way it sits with a 6" ProComp lift and 37" Yokohama Open Countrys. Recently, once I get up to 40-45 mph, the rear end starts vibrating violently until I speed up or slow down. There isn't any clanking noise and it's silent. I look in the mirrors to see if it's the tires but they appear to be rotating smoothly. It's never done this before. It's like a tire is out of balance but it shakes much harder than that should be at that speed. It rides smooth as can be at any other speed all the way up to 80 mph which is the faster than i drive. What this could be? I've done searches but can only find info on the front end death wobble which is not the case here.
View 4 RepliesI need fixing my 2003 f350 6.0 diesel, I have been working on this truck for a while and still am having problems, here was the original symptoms:
-Hard start or no start on a sunny day
-Rough idle for 10-15 minutes
-Rough shaking in the low RPMs (35 mph)[/COLOR]
-Slow response from the gas pedal
-boost would only get to 14
My dad and I then did many things to the truck in the shop, those things are:
-Air test and replacement of coupling going into oil branches (next to HPOP)
-Replaced EGR valve (no good)
-Replaced ICP sensor (leaking oil)
-Replaced ICP sensor and IPR valve piggtails (due to frayed wires)
-Cleaned Turbo
-Cut MAP sensor hose and reattached it (spliced on the end)
-New battery
-Performed a bubble test and found two bad injectors on passenger side (injectors #5 and #7)
-Cleaned and lubed tops of injectors
-Replaced O rings and copper crush washers on all injectors
-Replaced nipple cup O rings (tight)
-Blew out injector cups
-Bubble tested after injectors put back in (no more bubbles)
-New FICM, EGR cooler and oil cooler were already installed
-Ohm'd main engine wiring harness (good to go)
-Taped up frayed wires on fan clutch connection
-Increased wire gauge on the positive jumper between both batteries
-Sanded each ground on the batteries and engine, cleaned battery clamps, lithium greased connection points.
-Checked fuel for air (no air)
-Checked fuel psi (85 psi, plenty)
-Oil changed
After doing all of this (diagnosing as we fixed each thing) we now fixed many things including the hard/no start problem. Now, for the first three to five minutes:
-It starts right up
-Runs perfectly, no shake and instant response from the gas pedal and turbo
-Boost goes to 28
-ICP is 800-950 on idle
-IPR is 25-26.9% closed
After five minutes however:
-Starts to shake
-IPR % starts to raise
-Received no response from gas pedal (absolutely no power)
This truck has been torn apart like 8 times and I have to do it on my spare time.
I was driving to the store today and about halfway there the truck kept the same rpms but I was losing speed. The wrench lit up on the dash, checked the tuner (nothing out of the ordinary) so i pulled into the nearest parking lot and shut her down. The tuner is just there for my dpf delete and is set to "no power" or stock settings. It's a bully dog triple something or other. I don't race the truck or work it very hard for that matter. Basically a work truck that hauls more people than trailers.
Lifted the hood, checked the tranny fluid level and the stick was dry as a bone. Thing is, it's winter here and i haven't noticed any transmission fluid leaks anywhere ever. I'm gonna head to the local (two hour drive one way) parts store for fluid in the morning with my dads truck.
I'm wondering where it went? did it burn up or leak out and I didn't notice? Just wondering where to look first when i get it back home. Or did i simply fail in my maintenance checks (i admit i change my oil and fuel filters religiously but haven't checked the trans fluid) and it ran out??
So my heater works when I'm rolling down the highway. When I'm at about 20 mph or less it blows cool air. Also when it's just idling it blows cool air. What I might have an issue with?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Super Duty 6.0. The trouble started almost all at once. It started fine, then I drove it for a while and on hot start, it cranked for a long time before starting. This went on for a few days, then today it wouldn't restart even when cool after not being driven for hours. I have a code P2285 and code P2285 P that has been on for a month or so. I know that the P2285 is the ICP. I don't know and can't find out what the "P" is at the end of the code. Anyways, I want to repair it myself. I have experience doing pretty major repairs, so it doesn't scare me. The problem is I am new to the diesel world. So come one and come all with possible scenarios and I will Go right down the list.
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a 2011 F-350 w/6.7 diesel. When I first start it & let it run say 30 seconds and take off it shifts fine from 1 to 2 but when it goes from 2-3 it hangs there a second and then finally shifts into 3rd hard. 3rd to 4th is ok but 4-5 again is a hard shift and from 5 to 6 is OK. It will do this for a while like through the neighborhood and down the road 10 miles then it is fine. Shifts beautifully when warmed up.
My local Ford dealer has a guy that is supposed to be very knowledgeable with Super Duty trucks. I have had it to him twice and he says this is normal. All shift hard until the transmission is up to operating temperature. Says the engine is very powerful and until everything is up to temperature this will happen. If so then it would be normal to let it sit and run for a while before you take off in the morning. I am getting ready to hook the truck up to my 33' camper and go on our first camping season with the trailer/truck combination and if I need to leave it sit and warm up I will.
My wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
My 2011 F-250 just started having a weird heater problem. My truck heater gets up to temp just fine but after cruising down the highway for about 15 minutes or so it starts blowing out cool air. I can turn the controls to defrost and back again and it blows warm, not hot but warm then cool again. It just started a couple of days ago. Temp gauges show normal temp also.
View 8 RepliesI was driving from home to work the other day and it was 6 degrees out. My heat was working good and everything was fine and then all of a sudden the passenger side started blowing cool air. Not cold not warm. Driver side was still hot. It is a lariat and has dual temp zones. Everything I read everyone says blender doors but what would make it stop working out of no where when everything was fine. Occasionally when I start my truck and turn the heat on it makes a popping noise under the dash when the blower kicks on. But it has done this since I owned it an never had an issue. It's 25 below today and I would really love to have completely functional heat. It's an 2008 f350.
View 14 RepliesLast few months my 08 F250 has been slow going up hills. The fluid checks out ok and it shifts fine.
It just seems to take forever to get up hills. Has 124K....
Also has a huge hissing noise thats RPM dependent on the passenger side. Will make the sound in neutral just revving.
I have a 1999 F450 Diesel dump truck. Automatic. The problem that I have is that the truck will drive VERY SLOWLY while the rps go up.
You can hear the engine revving up, and a strong air sound when doing so (do not know if intake or exhaust, but its like a strong wind sound. And not like a hiss, so I do not think its a vacuum leak).
The transmission goes through gears fine, but it does the rev up thing through every gear. So I am wondering if something like the torque converter might be broken or slipping.
For example, if you go with the loaded truck up a hill, you have to really push it to keep any type of speed. Or when you get off a red light.
When I bought it used, I thought that it might have a really short final gear. But that would not explain the high RPM and no push.....
No codes at all.
I have an 08 f350 lariat with the 6.8 with 66000 miles. A month ago took it to the dealer with a plugged catilityc converter. All covered under warranty. Got the truck back, starts great when cold including 18 degrees the other morning. I drive 7 miles to work, shut it off and restart, it acts as if the starter is struggling to turn the engine over. Once it cools off, starts fine again. I took it back to dealer, they replaced the starter. No change. Took it back again, they replace battery. Cranks a little faster, but you can tell it's still struggling. It always starts, I'm just wondering how it will be when it's 80 out and in pulling my 9000lb camper....
View 14 RepliesMy 6.0 has been leaking oil for a couple weeks now possibly longer judging by the staining underneath. Very slow leak. 1 drop hits the ground when I get off work and go to get in the next morning. It never really reads off the dipstick a drop in the level. But I want to get it fixed. Ive attached pictures of where its coming from and was hoping to get pointed in the right direction.
View 3 RepliesJust changed the oil in my 6.0 and I'm sitting here looking at my tuner and is telling me my idle rpms are about 770.
Before I changed my oil it idled around 750.
It's running fine, I was just wondering why it changed? More pressure to the injectors with the newer oil?
Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
I notice the gas nozzle clicks off all the time when I am filling my truck. Normally I just hold the nozzle up more and it seems to work.
F250. Slow fuel fill or fill nozzle keeps shutting off....
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Got 01 F350, 7.3
Started having issues with starter bogging down my batteries. Slow crank, it would catch anyway and runs great. I have spare used starter in the garage, threw that on and it cranks fast, but occasionally just free spins half way thru the cranking.
My question is, can I make one good starter from these two? Monday AM buyer is coming to get my truck, and I don't want to have to buy brand new starter if I can avoid it, but I want him to have reliable used starter.
What causes free spinning (not flex plate related), and what causes power drag and slow crank? I was thinking throw solenoid from fast starter onto slow one, since slow one doesn't spin out but it bogs down my voltage?
I have a 2006 F350 6.0L Diesel with about 72,000 miles on it. It has been the best truck ever, but just about two weeks ago it started doing something real strange. While driving, and it seems to only be at slow speeds, (idle or just accelerating), the truck will shut off the engine. And it is always in this order, it will first "pop" all the speakers real loud, then the radio will reset, (go to the AM radio and shuffle through my 6 disc changer) and then the engine will shut off.
Once I bring the truck to a stop and put it into park, it will then start back up with no problems at all. There is nothing I can seem to piece together as to when it will do it other then it seems to only be at slow speeds... Besides that, it is completely random. One day it did it four times, and then it didn't do it for the next few days at all... The only thing that has changed over last 2 weeks is that, the last few times that it has done it, it didn't kill the engine, it still popped the speakers like normal and then reset the radio, but didn't shut off the engine.
Since it has gotten cool outside my truck is back to not having any power or acceleration when cold. About 10 miles and it is fine. Also I got a code 2286 injection pressure high. Are these related? I cleared the code and it has not returned. The truck is completely stock.
View 7 Replies2011 250 CC FX4 LARIAT 6.7l Just had the oil changed on Friday and I noticed a couple oily spots in the driveway. Crawled under to investigate and there is a slow drip coming off the plastic oil plug. Called the service center and they said the seals on those plugs fail pretty regular. What was done to eliminate this issue?
View 9 Replies