Ford Excursion :: 2005 - Cooling Intermittent - Overheating
Nov 11, 2014
Original owner of a 2005 Excursion 6.8l v10, 155k miles. About a month ago 10-15 minutes or so into my ride to work on a 50-60 degree morning the check gauges light comes on, noticed the temp gauge pegged to H followed by the check engine light, then limp mode. Turned on front & rear heaters and cold air was blowing. Pulled over, checked under the hood, coolant wasn't boiling, tank was 1/2 full and cold air was blowing thru radiator. 1st thought was T'Stat. So I removed T'Stat added some antifreeze & continued to work w/o a t'stat. Then had heat thru radiator & heat in front & rear heaters. Engine ran cool with no overheat issue.
Bought aftermarker T'Stat (slant) put that in and everything back to normal. About a month later same problem happens at about the same point in my trip to work, temp pegs, no heat from heater and goes into limp mode. Shut the truck off release pressure from radiator and coolant level goes down, seems to feed back into engine. Start the truck up temp goes back to normal and everything is fine for the rest of the day with several starts/stops. Bought FORD OEM T'Stat & replaced. Next morning same problem. So i think maybe there's an air pocket somewhere, add more coolant & fill to proper level when cold. next morning from cold start same problem. Coolant is clean, just changed oil and no coolant in oil. Problem only happens from a cold startup in the morning.
I'm at a loss. I'm thinking of drilling a small bypass hole in the T'Stat.
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I borrowed a friends 2000 Excursion with the Triton V10, along with his 3300lb, 28' trailer to tow a car from Ashland, OR to Reno, NV to begin a restoration project. His Excursion has 175,000 miles on it and made the trip down flawlessly, but as they say, "No good deed goes unpunished." When attempting to return last Sunday, had to turn around due to overheating problems. Analysis at a local automotive shop concluded a bad radiator cap. Attempted the return trip Tuesday and the same thing happened (only got farther due to the new cap and ability to hold pressure longer).
Finally got into a Ford dealer and have been informed that the truck has a bad head gasket causing pressure to leak into the cooling system. They suggest replacement of with a remanufactureded engine as opposed to replacing head gaskets, due to the time on the entire engine (who knows what else might be bad?). The vehicle can be driven around town for miles with no problems. But put that heavy load on it and grades and it spews out nearly "all" of the coolant.
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2005 Taurus - 6cyl - 3L - 85K. 2nd post on this on. Have had this vehicle to 2 mechanics now and problem is still there. First mechanic checked the refrigerant pressures, added dye, couldn't find a leak. Told me that he had to add a small amount of R134 and the pressures were "spot on" but the problem was still happenning so he supposedly trouble-shot the system and found it to be electrical. He said that the controls on the dash were causing the problem and changed them. When I picked it up, everything worked fine for the first day. After that, the same thing happenned where it would intermittently work.
I took it back to another mechanic (who specializes in AC work) and he evacuated and recharged the system (also said that he added dye and couldn't find any leaks). When I questioned this, he said the pressures were low and that would cause the intermittent loss of the AC cooling. This time, it work for 2 days and then the same thing happened where it intermittently works. There is no pattern at all to it working. Sometimes it's when the car is first started ; sometimes it quits just driving down the highway ; and sometimes it quits for 5 minutes and then just comes back blowing ice cold air. I suggested the AC compressor clutch or coil to the 2nd mechanic and I'm not sure he even checked it. Does this "still" sound like a leak somewhere or more electrical ?
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I have a problem with my 2005 gti 1.8t , I had a issue with my cooling flange leaking, I changed it yesterday refiled it with g12 and distilled water took the car for a test drive about 20 min in see the temperature go up, no steam or water leaking any where, turn on the heat notice no hot air from the vents,turn on the ac no cold air, and the fans are not turning on. Everything worked the day before I did the coolant flange, am thinking is this possible because the coolant temperature sensor broke? fans will not turn on at all even if it overheating. If I leave the radiator cap off the coolant is spiting out of the overflow expansion tank don't know where to start looking for some pointers. Would bad thermostat cause the fans not to turn on?I think is impossible that the fans and the thermostat broke at the same time with the fact that everything worked the day before..
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2005 Dodge Neon SXT 206XXX
Long story short on a trip (about a 1 hr. drive) got about a block away from destination and gauge showed it was over heating. Stopped the car started up after five min. just fine. Got home replaced the thermostat and cap (old cap was junk). New cap was junk aftermarket so yesterday I took the same car on a half hour drive to get a Mopar cap ran just fine up again until a block away, pulled off the road turned it off let it set a few min. then didn't even show it was over heating. Let the pressure off and replaced the cap and added in a bit more coolant ran fine all the way back (even pushed speed in a few spots).
The above is just what seems to be the mechanical side of the issue. After noticing the gauge was going a bit above the normal spot I noticed my cooling fans are not coming on. Checked fuse and tested relays out to be fine. First thought is to check voltage to the fans but also tempted to check coolant temp sensor with bench test. Will be going over to my dads to do voltage testing later today.
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I have a 2005 Subaru Forester with 88k on it. I bought it with about 70k on and have been doing a lot of the services myself.
I change the oil religiously. I recently changed the thermostat on the car, cleaned out the reservoir and now the car has new antifreeze. The reason I did this was because cars cooling fan is always going at full blast. This only started about 6,000 miles ago. So since it was a easy job I figured change the thermostat. I am in NY and it has been very cold out, but with my 10 mile commute to work by the time I pull into the parking lot the cooling fan is very loud and the noise is very noticeable.
I recently drove up to go skiing, ( the temp outside was 9 degrees) I was on the interstate going about 70 to 77 mph because the car was going uphill and the incline was significant , I would push more on the gas pedal and I would see the thermostat on the dash going up very closely to the red mark. I pulled over a few time, the fans were at full blast.
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I have a 2005 honda civic. About a month ago it started overheating. Drives Ok on the highway but heats up to the H mark almost as soon as I get off the highway. Have replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator, flushed the system, most hoses, fan, 2 sensors, timing belt, spark plugs and had the head gasket checked 3 times by 2 different shops. Both said it was fine. The mechanic that has done most of the work is baffled. Says he has never seen anything like this and is at a loss as to what to do next. I am supposed to drive this car halfway across the country in a week to meet my husband who is in the air force. Should I just sell this piece of junk!?
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2005 camry SE I4. 333225 miles. Replaced radiator, thermostat, cap, and coolant. Still getting intermittent temp spikes. Spikes are 3-4 marks on gauge. Was pegging gauge with spikes before the change. What the heck else can it be? I flushed block and and water pump is only about 6 months old.
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My 2005 Excursion Limited V10 started overheating several months ago. The radiator needed to be replaced. This was done and a complete system flush was done along with an air lock check. Everything worked until the ac was turned on, then the gauge showed it was overheating but laser temp sensor showed it was not overheating. I had the water pump, temp sensor, thermostat and clutch fan replaced. Vehicle still shows overheating and will go into limp mode but it actually is not overheating because you can take the radiator overflow cap off and laser sensor shows normal temp. I am thinking its electrical. I have not replaced the temp sender yet. It only shows overheating when I turn the A/C on. When I shut the ac off, the gauge goes back to normal. What else can I do?
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2003 F-150 Supercrew w/4.6 V-8, 2-wheel drive, 219,000 miles and very well maintained. I'm getting an intermittent overheat condition that I can't figure out. Coolant level is good and I just replaced the thermostat. My OBDII app showed it running at a constant 207 degrees (195 thermostat) after the thermostat. Appears to have good pressure at the cap. It ran great for 30 minutes at idle and then did fine for a five mile test drive.
The next day in the morning it overheated within 3 miles of the house (heat was on) and you could smell it. Pulled over and let it sit for 20 minutes and started back up and it stayed constant at 207 all the way to work (11 miles). It sat at work for about 7 hours and ran great all the way home (without heat, with heat, with air cond). Then this morning it did it again, overheating about 3 miles from home. This time I pulled over and shut it off for about three minutes. Turned the key on without starting and the temp was already dropping again. So I started it up and it continued to drop down so I drove to work with no more issues. This afternoon again went home and it never overheated.
I'm expecting it to overheat again in the morning. I'm gonna go live on the OBDII for temps during the drive tomorrow.
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This car started overheating while at drive thru and I noticed the cooling fan was not on. The coolant overflow tank was bubbling and the top had come off spilling coolant. dre it home and it runs hot now while driving. I pulled over a couple hours and let it cool off and then added coolant to the radiator directly and drove home with no issue.
Checked coolant level today and it was fine and I drove it a mile and back to the store with no issues. I wanted to ask how I could rig the cooling fan to stay on all the time to see if that is the problem before sinking money into t plus I am not convinced there is a more serious problem especially since it ran hot while driving.
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Yesterday, I was waiting inline at a fast food drive-thru and noticed that my A/C was not cooling (it was 100 deg outside). I then put the car in park and revved up the engine and then cool air started to come out of my A/C vents. I did that for 2-3 mins, then noticed that my temperature gauge rose almost all the way to the top (it went right under the red). At that point I took off (out of the drive thru), to get some air flowing into the radiator. Sure enough it temperature doped fast. After looking under the hood. I noticed that one of the two fans to the radiator will not turn on. I'm guessing that's what caused the over heating. I am not sure if I did any damage to the engine though, it did run really hot but not to the red mark but a hair line right under it.
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I have had some ongoing issues with this car the last 3 years over overheating, I have like clock work been replacing my thermostat in the line, well this time I replaced that danged thing again and the heating was still an issue, (yes oil and coolant filled. ) so I replaced the sensor in the motor and the fan would still not engage . so I pulled the fan and connected direct current to the fan and it did indeed start right up. so its not the fan motor, I hooked a direct current where the ah hell mental block here the plug sensor by the fuse, that was replaced, and yet still no fan engaged.. Here is the rub, If I have the AC on the motor fan will run...
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This video is about the Toyota Prius Gen 3 Temperature Indicators and cooling system overheating. I thought the prius did not have temperature indicators but found out it did, so this video is about how to know if your toyota prius is overheating and understand the basics of its cooling system.
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I have a problem with my Toyota Camry 2002 4 cyl. 2.4L, I changed my Motor cooling fan but my car keeps overheating, I changed the overflow tank top, but still its overheating and the car turns off by itself sometimes, when its cold (after i turn it on) it starts bucking and also if its stop (example, if i park somewhere), and at last, the temp isn't showing correctly on my dashboard.
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I have a 1998 isuzu trooper. it is over heating and there is air being put into the cooling system. there is a lost of fluid but only the same amount each each time and i dnt knw where too. i replaced water pump had radiator serviced and it flowing at the right flow for truck. it still over heated. i tried chemical called blue devil it worked for two days then failed it is freezing cold here and no garage but do have all tools.
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Alrighty. I have replaced everything dealing with my coolant. New water pump, mishi radiator, pusher fans, thermal switch, temp sensor, t stat, t stat housing coolant pipes, also new gasket and o rings. All new coolant pentofrost sf. Today I went to bleed the cooling system and waited til it did not suck any more coolant down, and we're no signs of air bubbles. Today when I drove it a to Walmart it began to over eat quickly. I pulled over and looked ubder the hood. Coolant was dripping out of my 19-21 pounds moroso cap. And my coolant hoses were rock hard.
Although my top radiator hose was very hot and my bottom was not, but closer to the motor it was. Like if there was a blockage but there isn't in the hose that goes to the block on the bottom of my radiator. Even with the air flow and my fans manually turned on when I first started the car it was steal overheating. On my vehicle there is not a reservoir it has been deleted. I have just my hoses and my radiator that's it. I don't know what can be causing this to happen. Also I ran an air pressure test and my head gasket is not leaking. Any clue what could be going on????
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I have the same problem as the gentleman w/ the '97 4x4 4.6. Intermittent overheating. The water pump and t-stat have both been replaced, as well as the radiator. Some one told me a piece of gasket material from the heater core may be floating around and periodically clogging things. Could this happen? and what's the fix? Also, someone told the guy w/ the 4x4, that he could have blown head gasket, and to perform a sniffer test to find out.#1. What is a sniffer test? #2. If the head gasket is blown, wouldn't there be water in the oil?
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I've a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo, 3.4 L engine, 110K miles. The cooling fan is making a intermittent loud noise for some reason or another. Can the motors be purchased separately or will I have to buy the entire cooling fan assembly? Also, could this be a bearing problem? The fan doesn't appear to be rubbing against anything. The fan is running after the engine is turn off although the engine wasn't real hot.................driven under 15 miles and fan came on and stayed on after turning off engine but finally stopped running.
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester. It will cool just fine while not moving. It will also cool just fine if I'm coasting down a hill with my foot off the gas. However, on the highway I have intermittent cooling. It cools for 10-15 seconds and then it blows what feels like straight vent for 10-15 seconds. It has a new compressor, receiver/dryer, and expansion valve and is fully charged.
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What part to look at? cleaned fan connector and it worked for a bit, but still overheats with ac on. 2001 4 cyl saturn...
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