Ford Excursion :: 2005 V10 Started Overheating When Turn The AC On
May 28, 2017
My 2005 Excursion Limited V10 started overheating several months ago. The radiator needed to be replaced. This was done and a complete system flush was done along with an air lock check. Everything worked until the ac was turned on, then the gauge showed it was overheating but laser temp sensor showed it was not overheating. I had the water pump, temp sensor, thermostat and clutch fan replaced. Vehicle still shows overheating and will go into limp mode but it actually is not overheating because you can take the radiator overflow cap off and laser sensor shows normal temp. I am thinking its electrical. I have not replaced the temp sender yet. It only shows overheating when I turn the A/C on. When I shut the ac off, the gauge goes back to normal. What else can I do?
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Original owner of a 2005 Excursion 6.8l v10, 155k miles. About a month ago 10-15 minutes or so into my ride to work on a 50-60 degree morning the check gauges light comes on, noticed the temp gauge pegged to H followed by the check engine light, then limp mode. Turned on front & rear heaters and cold air was blowing. Pulled over, checked under the hood, coolant wasn't boiling, tank was 1/2 full and cold air was blowing thru radiator. 1st thought was T'Stat. So I removed T'Stat added some antifreeze & continued to work w/o a t'stat. Then had heat thru radiator & heat in front & rear heaters. Engine ran cool with no overheat issue.
Bought aftermarker T'Stat (slant) put that in and everything back to normal. About a month later same problem happens at about the same point in my trip to work, temp pegs, no heat from heater and goes into limp mode. Shut the truck off release pressure from radiator and coolant level goes down, seems to feed back into engine. Start the truck up temp goes back to normal and everything is fine for the rest of the day with several starts/stops. Bought FORD OEM T'Stat & replaced. Next morning same problem. So i think maybe there's an air pocket somewhere, add more coolant & fill to proper level when cold. next morning from cold start same problem. Coolant is clean, just changed oil and no coolant in oil. Problem only happens from a cold startup in the morning.
I'm at a loss. I'm thinking of drilling a small bypass hole in the T'Stat.
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So, on my way home from checking out a house all of a sudden the truck started vibrating when getting on the highway. Then it got worse quickly. So I pulled off at the next exit and pulled into a parking lot, the truck shuddering badly any time I pressed the fuel pedal. Had it towed to my local Ford dealer. I'm thinking torque converter/transmission, but I freely admit I don't know. Here's what I think is pertinent info-
1. I bought it at 84k miles, now 122k. Oil changed every 5k, fuel filters every 10k, coolant every 20k, trans fluid every 20k. Don't kmow what was done first 84k miles before I bought it.
2. Driveshaft rebuilt one year ago. Both fr and rr diff fluids changed a few months ago, along with transfer case fluid.
3. When in park or neutral engine revs perfectly smooth. When placed in gear and fuel is added it starts to shudder, getting worse as revs go up. Does not vary with road speed, only with engine speed and load into transmission.
4. There are no codes at all. All temps were normal. Engine oil and trans fluid level normal.
5. A few months ago when coming home from a trip I suddenly had the same symptoms about 3 miles from home, but not as bad as today. Made it home taking it easy and went to bed. I was exhausted from a long day of driving and when I test drove the truck the next morning to check it out it was smooth as could be, so I thought maybe I imagined it. Symptoms did not reappear until today, a few months and several thousand miles later.
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I have a 2003 F150 4.6l triton v8.... I started over heating yesterday. Got home, let it cool down and found Oil in Coolant. No coolant in oil or transmission fluid. What could be wrong?
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I have a 2003 F150 4.6 Triton V8.... My truck started over heating again after replacing the Thermostat and Water Pump later this summer.... Well I checked Coolant and I have Oil in the Coolant. I see Nothing wrong with the Tranny Fluid and see nothing wrong with the Oil.... What could be the problem??????
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Last fall I flushed and changed out my water pump, Thermostat, Coolant Temperature sensor, and coolant reservoir. My 2001 Excursion ran find all fall and winter long. This year I changed out the Fan clutch.
Problem: when it warms up and drive well for a while than the gauge start to go up and start staying its overheating. The weird thing is when I turn on the A/C it brings the temperature back down. When its in gear and running without the A/C it creeps up to almost the red. I cleaned the Radiator and made sure it was clean but it still does the same thing. On top of that, the upper hose (when the car is turned off) seem to colapse slightly.
Other than getting it professional Flushed I don't know. The coolant has nothing to do with the Radiator? I'm pretty much stump with it.
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I have an '04 EX Limited 6.0L. This past January while driving in CO from TX the truck overheated while driving stop and go in a small area looking for a particular store. The fan kicked in as it should have and it cooled some, but I begin to notice during the trip that anytime I was sitting still it would overheat. I had front and rear AC controls on heat as it was very cold. When driving normal speeds engine temps would cool down. The Heater would begin to blow cold air as the temp would rise when sitting still or barely moving. Got home and found radiator a little low of fluid and filled to just below the modified full line.
Fast forward 5 months. I've had no problems at all since until about 2 weeks ago I noticed the smell of antifreeze every time I would exit the truck. The degas bottle still looked full if you checked it cold or once you depressurized the system. No signs of puking. This past Friday after driving home from about an hour away I had to stop at a particularly long stop light and the AC began to blow hot air. I checked my temps(scanguageII) and it was getting hotter the longer I sat. Checked degas bottle when I got home no problems. I've been trying to get it to do this again but no luck. Suspected that it may be the heater core for the rear AC, but turning it on in any temp hasn't duplicated results.
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I have a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3 diesel. I have 245k on the clock. Engine and transmission are original. I have an overheating issue when I am towing and pull a long grade. It's not as bad as it was before but it still happens and I am tired of turning off the AC and putting the heaters on full blast to support cooling when it is 90 plus outside. A list of things that I have done so far.
Newer water pump and thermostat.
New tensioner.
Installed a new trans pan with about 7-8 larger capacity.
Used some magic juju juice to clean out colling system.
Installed a coolant filter. I am on my 5th filter. The first one didn't last 500 miles before getting stopped up.
Switch to Delo ELC.
I recently had the upper hose off and when I looked inside, I didn't see any scale or build up. I also read about some of the trucks of that vintage didn't get a trans cooler. When I looked, I saw a cooler but it doesn't look like it is plumbed through the radiator.
I want to install a large trans cooler. I don't want to replace the radiator just for the sake of replacing it. Also, look at the pic of the water pump with the thermostat sitting in it. Is the thermostat supposed to be resting all the way down? I keep wondering about that.
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I have a 2000 Ex with 252,000 miles. Where it is extremely hilly (Ozark Mountains). I tow a 6400 lb travel trailer. What I am having problems with is the Ex is running extremely hot when towing and climbing hills. Not in the red, but damn close. No problems what so ever when not towing. No problems when towing on level ground. I know the Ex is working hard, but I want to keep it running cooler. I have flushed the radiator literally 20 times and have done 2 chemical flushes. Is it time to just replace the radiator? How many passes does the stock radiator have? What about a bigger water pump? I have the 5.4 motor, which I love so no bashing my little V8. It has all the power I need. I don't need to climb hills doing 90mph.
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So a couple weeks back I'm on expressway home and I look down and and temp gauge is pegged out overheating I immediately pulled off and shut it down and towed to a buddy of mine's shop he flushed it filled it up w antifreeze and checked for leaks and couldn't find one. I drove it for about a week and got out to for a quick stop , Ex parked on a slight decline and came out to prolly half gallon of coolant on the ground..I limped it to my buddies shop as it was not running hot .. he has checked it out but can't find any leaks, even after having it run 30 or so minutes..
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I borrowed a friends 2000 Excursion with the Triton V10, along with his 3300lb, 28' trailer to tow a car from Ashland, OR to Reno, NV to begin a restoration project. His Excursion has 175,000 miles on it and made the trip down flawlessly, but as they say, "No good deed goes unpunished." When attempting to return last Sunday, had to turn around due to overheating problems. Analysis at a local automotive shop concluded a bad radiator cap. Attempted the return trip Tuesday and the same thing happened (only got farther due to the new cap and ability to hold pressure longer).
Finally got into a Ford dealer and have been informed that the truck has a bad head gasket causing pressure to leak into the cooling system. They suggest replacement of with a remanufactureded engine as opposed to replacing head gaskets, due to the time on the entire engine (who knows what else might be bad?). The vehicle can be driven around town for miles with no problems. But put that heavy load on it and grades and it spews out nearly "all" of the coolant.
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Truck has recently developed a weird overheat issue. Ill try to give a s much background as possible:
I changed the heater core in the winter and that definitely cured the lack of interior heat issue the truck had since I got it. Blows hard and hot now. (I suspect I should also swap out the rear one too)
On occasional since then I have noticed the odd time a "gurgling sound" in the heater core area. Its not all the time but here and there.
Within the last 3 weeks or so I have gotten a check engine light. I've been a bit too busy to address it, and don't tend to drive very far (work and back) but have downloaded the comp and have a P0174 and P1299. Now just in the last 5 days I have noticed the temp gauge , which is normally firmly parked at about 1/3 in the zone has moved up to nearly the hot area. I can easily bring it back down by using full heat. I have cleared the codes and they haven't returned yet, but I'm suspicious of them non the less.
What can cause lean on only one bank? I have looked at the usual suspects and don't see any obvious leaks. Is it very common to have a intake gasket leak? what's the easiest way to check for that?
My rad appears in good shape although the AC condenser is pretty beat up. I'm definitely going to flush out the coolant, it looks good and used.
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My 2003 Dodge Neon started overheating. We replaced the thermostat, temperature sending unit, flushed the radiator, checked for blockages, cleaned the radiator, changed the head gasket and water pump.It can run for about 10-15 minutes driving or 30 minutes idling before it overheats. The fans will kick on. The thermostat opens up. Pressure builds up on the radiator hose. When it gets hot, it boils back into the reservoir.I've been careful not to let it get into the red since the head gasket change.We sent the head off and had it planed.
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I have a 95' Grand Cherokee, V8 5.2L. Recently, it started overheating and was diagnosed as a head gasket issue at a shop. I ended up replacing the head gasket, thermostat, and water pump. (The radiator, top radiator hose, and radiator cap were replaced within the last year as well.) Despite the repairs, the coolant in the reservoir does not move. The Jeep overheats and there is a squealing noise coming from what may be the water pump. There is also a slight leakage of coolant near the water pump bypass hose, but does not seem to be coming from the hose itself. What else am I missing?
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So after hitting a deer in my car a few weeks ago I fixed it and drove it around town a little bit and it ran fine. But 15 mins onto the highway the next day it overheated. It was out of oil, which I had checked a couple days before when I fixed it. so after it had cooled down I filled it up with Coolant and oil and started driving it home. the roads where bad and I wanted to go easy on the engine so I took it at about 25-30 MPH. as I was driving it would slowly overheat, but I could get it to start cooling down but dropping it into neutral and just letting it idle while I coasted. I had to get off the frontage road and take the highway the last couple miles before town so I turned the engine off and let the fan run for about 20 mins, and started off again, the weird thing was when I got on the highway I was doing about 55Mph and the engine didn't try to overheat at all, but as soon as I got back in town and started doing 25 again it started overheating again. another thing that is happening is that the car will blow air through the heating system but won't heat it. I realize that was long but I'm really at a loss. I replaced the head gaskets less than a year ago so it's not from worn gaskets.
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I have a 05 6.0l that started over heating while towing recently. In 2012 i did egr delete, oil cooler, stc fitting, and coolant filter. I recently changed radiator and tstat think that was the problem due to small leak in radiator, but still towing about a 4-5k load temps rise to over heat while towing. What to look for next. Also fan seems to be work properly I monitor fan speed etc., and tft on my scangauge.
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My car just started over heating and I checked the fans and they are not running. I'm new to the VW family and although I love the way this car drives I've been baptized with quite a few problems.
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1)Reverse lights stay on all the time. Tranny is an automatic. The gearshift indicator in the dash works normally. Is it the tranny electrical switch thats bad?
2)Engine just started overheating. I know for a fact the belt to the water pump is loose. Whats the proper way to tighten up that belt? I know how to take the front off the car...just don't know how to tighten the water pump belt. Its the motor that has the separate water pump outside the block, AEB engine.
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I have a 2002 jetta 1.8t that overheated on me out of no where i have read some post and couldn't really find what i need it never overheated on me before and this was the first time and when ever i open the reservoir where you put in coolant everything spills out its my first time owning a volkswagen, it happens as soon as i start driving like 30 secs and temperature starts to rise.
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I have not started my truck for some time (about 3 months) and the battery went dead. I recharged the battery and started her up. I then drove my truck about 5 miles and noticed that the water temp gauge was pegged to overheat...unbelievable! So of course I stopped the truck at the the nearest spot that had a water hose. The water was about 2-3 liters low as I could tell. This should not have caused the engine to overheat though. So what happened here. The engine ran ok back home but now I do not know what to do. Is it an electrical issue where the cooling system has a valve that is signaled electronically to open for the water to flow thru the system??
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I picked up a set of harley davidson look-a-like headlights online for my 05. I go to install them and when I tighten them up it causes the turn signal bulbs to push in towards the fender on both. I put my hand back there and it feels like the bulb socket is being forced against the header panel assembly. Am I missing something?
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