Ford Excursion :: Brakes Unresponsive On Hard Stops
Oct 15, 2015
I bought my 2005 Turbo diesel awhile back, and I was having an intermittent problem with the brakes. If I have to suddenly stop, and hit the brakes, it feels like I didnt hit them at all. Sure, I stop, but only after 3-4 seconds of OH CRAP IM GOING TO HIT SOMEONE.
So I just had my truck in the shop, and they replaced my front rotors, turned back back rotors, and replaced all of the pads.
So, I figured that should fix the issue. Not so.
Tonight my daughter was in a car accident, and I was hurrying my way to her, and the light in front of me flipped yellow/red pretty quick. So I hit the brakes, and thought I was going to go right through the intersection..
When I hit the damned brakes, I need to freaking stop. Not keep moving and then slow down gradually. Scared the crap out of me multiple times now. One time I'm not going to be so lucky.
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Ok, my brakes have felt the same since I got the truck. I push a little harder than I should have to (not a hard pedal, but further to the floor than normal to where it's harder to push) get the truck to stop. If I want to brake check someone that's riding my bumper I have to REALLY smash the pedal and even then it doesn't grab hard or lock up. Since I have owned the truck I have put all new pads, rotors, and calipers on, Russel braided lines front and rear (all 3 on the rear), and flushed ALL of the old fluid from the truck (Twitch and I went through 2 large bottles when we did the brakes).
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After all of this there has been no change in my brakes at all. Not one bit. What's odd is sometimes after it rains when I first get in the truck the first time I stop I get massive awesome brakes, but just the once. I never have a spongy pedal, and I never lose pressure, I just have brakes.
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When I hit the brakes hard on slick surfaces, the radio shuts off. Black screan, and all. Hit the power button, the clock lights up, hit the power button again, and than than it turns back on. Where to look?? I was thinking a weak alternator maybe.
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What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
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I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
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I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
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I have a 2005 Ford Focus zx5, which has been a great car for me so far. I live in DC, and traffic is insane. Over the last year or so, maybe once every other month, my car has turned off when I come to a hard stop (usually braking suddenly at a light/pedestrian walkway). This is my first time owning an automatic, and it's just as if my car had stalled out. The radio will stay on, etc, but the engine dies and I have to put it into park and re-start it.
The RPMs have seemed to fluctuate a bit as well, usually on start-up or on hot days.
So far I haven't been motivated enough to get it taken care of, since it happens so infrequently and things seem great otherwise. What could be causing this?
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Had the ex up on a lift today as I plan on swapping out the shocks and noticed that the front bump stops are completely gone.
Could this be contributing to the harsh bumpy jarring ride I have?
I don't quite understand what they do as they just appear to be bolted to the frame and the next piece of metal they can hit seems far away from where they are positioned?
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While driving the other day I heard a loud bang under the ex. went back and found the rubber bump stop on the drivers side had rotted and fell off. After inspecting the passenger side it looks like it is about to fall off . I dont mind spending money to keep my equip in proper running order but I dont want to be taken advantage of doing it!
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I have a 2002 7.3 ltd X with the 4r100 transmission. The trans shifts fine until it get over 160 deg (glow shift gauge in test port) Then the OD stops working and get no engine braking until I turn off the OD. when od is turned off, appears to shift OK. When the trans temp gets below 150, I get the OD back. The OD light did flash on 2 occasions but no code while engine on and light flashing but OD was working at the time. after shutting off engine and restarting light stopped. New fluid and filter, torque convert was flushed also and X has larger 6.0 trans cooler. Tran did get hot once while towing 4 ton trailer 240 f, thus bigger cooler. what would cause the OD to go out when above 160 f but come back when cool?
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I'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it
She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)
She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.
She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.
My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?
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My car makes a grinding/popping noise when driving that worsens when I go over bumps and that completely stops if I even touch the brakes. When I accelerate, the noise speeds up as well. I took it to a mechanic about three months ago and he said it was a loose bumper and that he secured it. After leaving, the noise got louder and happened more often. Sometimes the noise doesn't happen, while other times it does. My dad changed my front brake pads about a month ago so it can't be those. Is it possible that it is still my bumper making the noise? If so, I don't understand why it would stop when I brake.
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99 Ranger XLT 4.0 4WD Automatic. With the turn signal blinking and I depress the brake the turn signal stops blinking until I release the brake. Where to start.
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My son has been using my old X to commute to local university. Today he drove off as usual but when he tried to start truck to come home he got a slight crank but then it shuts off or dies. The engine will start to crank over but gets about a quarter turn and stops. All electrical accessories work, battery gauge is in normal 13V indication. New starter 4 weeks ago replaced battery at same time (Wal-Mart warranty exchange). Is a 6.8L Gas with 370,000 miles. Consistant service. Oil coolant good. I replaced starter solinoid by battery today did same thing.
Theft light is flashing when key goes in ignition (weird) goes off as you try to turn it over. Have tried putting it in neutral and park to start. 1/4 tank of gas feul pump replaced two years ago. Last time starting problem about three years ago was solenoid replaced crank sensor at time from bogus forum diagnosis. thats about all the info I have. Hooked up OBDII no codes being thrown.
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My little 2WD truck starts right up1st thing in the morning but after about 3 stops I turn the key and nothing. I wait about 5 mins and it starts goes another stop or two and the same thing happens. I have had the auto store check starting system, no problems i had. The computer read no codes...
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The brakes on my 2002 Camry work. They have never been stellar, they never "kicked in" as quickly as on my mom's 2006 Camry but they do work.So I am pulling into a parking spot and I hit the brakes as I am stopping there, and they just didn't kick in, there was a little rattling heard but they didn't really kick in.It happened again today as I was pulling into my drive way, it's not something I can reliably repeat, but it's happened again, and it has me concerned.
2002's are not supposed to have brakes issues of the kind 2007s and later did I thought? What could the cause of this be, the brakes are not totally worn out or else I would hear that all the time...
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I have a 1999 C2500 Chevy Silverado extended cab. On some slow speed stops the ABS kicks in and makes it hard to come to a full stop scary. There are no leaks in the system. The ABS light has come on, on the dash off and on. I thought I saw a post that you can shut off the ABS system not the real fix but safer until I can figure it out.
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My 2005 Subaru WRX has been making a chirping sound for a while now. It only happens when I go on fairly long-ish drives (15+ minutes) and stops when I press on the brakes, only to resume when I let go of the brake. I have a brand new baby and don't feel safe driving her around in the car.
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I have an 2007 Toyota Prius and in the mornings, especially if it is humid or moist outside, my brakes grab badly during the first couple of stops....it's bad enough to make somebody run into the back of me. When it happens, you will also hear a screeching noise coming from the (sounds like ) rear brake, passenger side. I have taken the car to the local garage twice and they found nothing wrong. I have taken it to the local Toyota dealer 3 times and likewise, they found nothing wrong either.
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In hot weather, after hard driving for an hour or more, usually (but not always) with a/c running, the engine on my 1998 Almera (a/k/a N15 or Pulsar) stops. The idiot lights come on and if the radio or CD player was on, it shuts off. I can immediately shift to neutral, turn the key, and the engine restarts almost instantaneously, with no difficulty. (I've gotten quite good at this, and can restart the car within a couple seconds, even while I'm coasting as a result of the original engine shutoff.)No matter how hard I drive the car, the problem happens ONLY in hot weather. I've had the beast worked on by competent Nissan mechanics, but no one has been able to figure out the cause.
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After driving my 2007 sonata for around 10 minutes, there is a very high pitched squealing sound that is intermittent and stops when the brakes are tapped. I was told it may be due to a "brake sensor"??
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