I have a 1999 C2500 Chevy Silverado extended cab. On some slow speed stops the ABS kicks in and makes it hard to come to a full stop scary. There are no leaks in the system. The ABS light has come on, on the dash off and on. I thought I saw a post that you can shut off the ABS system not the real fix but safer until I can figure it out.
View 7 RepliesSo I've been driving my tiggy with the rusted brakes from when I left it for a few months during this past winter season outdoors. I had VW check on it and they said that the only way to fix the problem is to replace the brakes (rotors and pads, I assume) for over $1k. Is there really no way to maybe scrape/sand the rusts out? Right now, when I step on the brakes, I have the pulsating feel and the car shakes when coming from a high speed. At first I thought it would go away after driving it a bit and stepping on the brakes since I did just that last year when I left it for a month during the winter season as well. If the only way is to have the brakes replaced, then I guess I have to shell out the money.
View 5 RepliesThe brakes on my 2002 Camry work. They have never been stellar, they never "kicked in" as quickly as on my mom's 2006 Camry but they do work.So I am pulling into a parking spot and I hit the brakes as I am stopping there, and they just didn't kick in, there was a little rattling heard but they didn't really kick in.It happened again today as I was pulling into my drive way, it's not something I can reliably repeat, but it's happened again, and it has me concerned.
2002's are not supposed to have brakes issues of the kind 2007s and later did I thought? What could the cause of this be, the brakes are not totally worn out or else I would hear that all the time...
I bought a used 2014 F-sport and I took it to the dealer since the brakes are making the screech noise on low speed cold stops. The dealership stated that the brakes and rotors are all aftermarket and won't touch them.
My question (from searching and reading) is, any aftermarket rotors for the F-Sport RWD?
Ok, I changed my front brake pads and rotors last week and since then everytime I get in the truck and drive for about the first 2 or 3 miles when I push the brake pedal it feels like my ABS sytem is activating. Then it stops and the ABS light comes on but the brake pedal stops pulsating when depressed. Is my ABS going bad or did I possibly do something wrong? I have changed the rotors and pads before without problems....
View 3 RepliesI just had new rear drums put on, my front brake pads are new, my rotors are good...but there is still a pulsating when I brake. When I am just about slowed down you can definitely feel a surging coming from somewhere. The steering wheel does not shake, and I don't feel more than a vibration from the brake pedal. I have taken it to 3 mechanics and replacing the drums was given as a solution. But since I have already done that, the problem is obviously not resolved. I know I need new tires as 2 of them are really cupped and loud...could that be it?
View 19 RepliesGot new brakes 4 months ago - except this time put in redstuff ceramic pads.
I've had really bad vibration and grinding lately so I just had the rotors machined and cleaned up.
Some of the vibration is gone but when I apply the brakes more than very lightly I get shaking shuddering including the steering wheel. If I apply the brakes harder it goes away.
I would estimate the pulsating/shuddering/shaking happens when I apply the brakes more than 10 percent up to say 40-50 percent. Very light pressure no problems and hard braking no issues.
This has gotten worse since the servicing. What could be causing this? I've already replaced the propshaft and am replacing the tires.
I don't use my car much, and park it on the street. I last drove it 3 weeks ago, and it did great on a 6 hour trip. It is worth noting that until this year, the car had lived in Washington, and this 6 hour trip was the first welt salted road experience the car has ever had.
Today, I go to drive it, and the first time I hit the brakes, I'm greeted by the entire car shaking and the brake pedal pulsating. My first thought was "wow, are the roads really that icy? that's a lot of ABS...". I then realized this was absurd, the roads are clearly dry and this doesn't quite feel like ABS (although it's a very similar feeling at high speeds). My next thought was that I must have ice in the pads, it'll melt off soon. So I drove 20 minutes, and it didn't improve. I turned around, and drove home.
When I first moved the car, I had to give it gas to get it to go and heard a snap. I assume this was it being stuck in ice as I hadn't driven for a while and it was very cold. It could have been something breaking, though.
I have since taken off all the wheels, visually inspected the drum brakes for any damage (pads look fine). I looked at the disc brakes and they looked fine. One of the caliper slide pins was completely seized, so I was hoping that'd fix it, but it had no effect at all.
The brake fluid level is full. I seriously doubt this is warped discs, because it drove perfect last time I used it and it was spontaneously so bad today.
I was in the RX450h with my son, everything's fine, its running smooth like a purring cat. I get to the bottom of the hill at a traffic light and stop with my foot on the brake.
Then it just started pulsating, engine comes on, goes off, comes on again, goes off - almost like a pressure washer with an internal leak
It went away after 30 s or so and hasn't come back. No engine lights or hybrid system warnings.
I started noticing that the brakes would pulsate, or grab momentarily when almost stopped. I figured that the rotors might be warped, and as I was planning on putting on new green stuff pads and rotors I was waiting for a convenient time to change them.
Now I have noticed some type of fluid, I'm guessing grease, on the side of one spoke of one of the wheels. I recently replaced the steel wheels with SE 16" wheels. I didn't see any leaks then but I guess I wasn't looking like I should have been.
I'm trying to decide what I should be looking for. CV boot leak? Front wheel bearing seal? Brake fluid?
I recently bought a 2007 Sonata V6, and the brakes pulsate (when applied) at highway speeds, so I am looking to replace the front rotors & pads. I have been told that the OEM rotors/pads aren't great & that as a result many owners have a brake pulsating/vibration issue.
View 9 Replies1997 328i 5sp 295k miles
Speed-dependent road noise, mildly pulsating roar as though I were driving a truck, just keeps getting louder as the weeks go by. Completely independent of load. Accelerating, decelerating, coasting, disengaging clutch, has no affect on volume or pitch of noise. Volume and pitch increases with speed. At 20 mph it is noticeable. At 80 mph it is quite annoying. Seems completely independent of road surface.
Rear wheel bearings were replaced about 50k miles ago, and they feel fine.
Front wheel bearings feel perfectly tight.
Replaced all four tires with new Michelin Defenders. That eliminated a low speed whomp-whomp--whomp that turned out to be a cord separation in the front left tire, but otherwise had negligible impact on the road noise.
Changed fluid in transmission and rear end. No change at all in the noise.
I thought that the only thing that would be speed-dependent but load independent would be the driveshaft carrier bearing. I bought a new one, but when I put the car up and exposed the driveshaft, I found that the rear U-joint was bad. Didn't figure the U-joint was my noise, as that would be sensitive to load, but needed to fix it. U-joints are not serviceable so I ordered rebuilt driveshaft which came with a new carrier bearing. Put that in today. Absolutely no change in the noise.
Tranny tail shaft bearing felt tight when I was replacing driveshaft, and no sign of oil leak from there.
All four rear CV joints feel tight, and in any event, noise from those would be load-dependent.
I have been searching the web, and rear shock mounts are often mentioned as possible suspects for road noise, but people rarely post what their problem turned out to be, and I would think that noise from failed shock mounts would be very road surface dependent.
The ac on my 97 chevy k1500 siverado works for about an hour then for no reason the air stops blowing thru the dash vents. The motor continues to run but will not blow thru the vents. At the same time my blower motor will slow down to the lower speed position even when I have it on high. But, if I shout off the ac for a view moments the air will start to come back up to speed and will begin to blow thru the dash vents again. I have replace all the blend doors excep the one for the cab recirculation. Replace the motor relay swith, the motor thermostat, and the dash mounted control module. The heater system seems to work fine.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1995 Chevy C1500 Silverado. The blower and heater work great when I start driving. After about 20 minutes of driving on high blower speed, the strength of air blowing out reduces drastically and eventually no air is blowing out of the vents. I can still hear that the blower is blowing air, but there is no air coming out of the vent. The Midas repair shop I frequent couldn't reproduce the issue on their short test drive (of course). They told me to bring it back to them whenever the problem occurs. I haven't had the opportunity because by the time I get out of work, they are closed and I am freezing to death every morning.
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
View 4 RepliesWhen parked and you shift between P to D or R loud engagement of transmission. Thought it was u joints, buddy says both look good/sound good when engaging P D R. Also shifts hard between 1-2-3 intermittently. I did read that it could be the TCC regulator valve?
View 2 RepliesMy AC stops working intermittently - I got a whole new compressor about 2 years ago, then it stopped working altogether about a month ago, they said they couldn't find any leak but filled it up w/ added dye. Now it blows cold for awhile on the highway, but will randomly blow warm air, and also blow warm air when I'm stopped at a light (Which is no good in Phoenix, AZ) I took it back in and they said they couldn't find a leak or anything wrong with it, that some hose was probably just freezing and then I would have to wait for it to thaw... but that doesn't explain why it never happened before... and it's not normal (clearly)... I just want a car that I don't have to roast in this summer!
View 3 RepliesMy 07 tundra starts and then stops running it does this intermittently. I recently put in new battery.
View 2 RepliesThis is on my g/f's 04 silverado 2x2 started about a month ago. Light comes on after rolling a few feet and right after hearing the abs pump run for a second. Then the light pops on, but the brakes feel fine. Only thing I tried so far is to clean the ground wires under the drivers seat but it's still doing it. I know when my sensor(s) went bad on my 00 the abs pump would kick on when stopping! not fun at all, but like I said it stops fine, just the little pump hum then the light.
View 4 RepliesI have a 98 K1500 Z71, having trouble with a ABS brakes going off every time I come to a stop, occasionally I don't even have to push on the brake just turn a corner and they go off. The brake light or the ABS light on the dash don't light up. I have taken the speed sensors off front axles cleaned then and sanded the rust off where they mount and still the same problem. Also, in the world of OBD scan tools, I know what ABS stands for ( brakes ) but what SRS stands for?
View 6 Replies2002 HD 2500 6.0 - Pulled into Wal-Mart, everything was fine. Came out 20 min later, started right up, but felt like it stalled, it was actually still running, (barely). Shut off, restarted, same. Used pedal to bump idle up to normal 500-600 RPM, it was smooth, no misfire or roughness. Drove home, approx 5 miles, and had to keep the idle up at every stop.
Could be IAC? How can I test it/What checks can I do in the darkness, by flashlight? No garage, but I do have tools, and basic test light, dmm, etc. First thought was fuel pressure, but it runs fine going down the road.