Silverado :: ABS System - Brakes Going Off Every Time Come To A Stop
Feb 23, 2016
I have a 98 K1500 Z71, having trouble with a ABS brakes going off every time I come to a stop, occasionally I don't even have to push on the brake just turn a corner and they go off. The brake light or the ABS light on the dash don't light up. I have taken the speed sensors off front axles cleaned then and sanded the rust off where they mount and still the same problem. Also, in the world of OBD scan tools, I know what ABS stands for ( brakes ) but what SRS stands for?
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For the past 2 months or so, my brakes sound like a horn when I get close to a full stop. The pads are about 7 months old. Brake fluid is good. Oil isn't fresh but I changed it about 9 months ago. 1997 Chevy Silverado C1500 2WD 5.7L.
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2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD.... Rear brakes make strange winding sound when coming to a full stop, noise only apparent under 5MPH. They have been completely done over. Rear end issue? Changes gears fine, brakes work ok.
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I'm working on a 170 6 cylinder 65 mustang. Every time we come to a stop in the car it wants to die. And it usually does. Any thing specific I should start with?
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Having problems with the auto-up feature on your windows? Mine seems to randomly stop working from time to time. Only the drivers side has the problem. When the truck was new the dealer re-programmed the computer and put a new window switch in. That worked for a while but the problem keeps coming back. I can easily do the re-programming sequence however the problem always comes back. I have a 2012 Lariat SCREW.
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I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 4X4 extended cab with short box with a 5.3L. A couple weeks ago I noticed that my brake lights were staying on all the time. I removed the fuses for the trailer left and right lights and the brake lights went out. due to the holidays I haven't had time to find out why the lights were staying on.
Today I noticed that my 3rd brake light was staying on all the time, even with the truck off, and no one in the truck, and my electric brake controller inside the cab was on. I unplugged the controller from the fuse panel and the controller light went out but the 3rd brake light was still on. I couldn't find a fuse, so I removed the bulbs. Where I would start to find the problem.
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I have a 04 lariat f150. Problem is every time I stop at a light or stop sign I hear and feel a bump. Coming from the rear I guess . Had my truck aligned asked the alignment person about the situation he said ford just do that. True or false ...
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The ac on my 97 chevy k1500 siverado works for about an hour then for no reason the air stops blowing thru the dash vents. The motor continues to run but will not blow thru the vents. At the same time my blower motor will slow down to the lower speed position even when I have it on high. But, if I shout off the ac for a view moments the air will start to come back up to speed and will begin to blow thru the dash vents again. I have replace all the blend doors excep the one for the cab recirculation. Replace the motor relay swith, the motor thermostat, and the dash mounted control module. The heater system seems to work fine.
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I have a 2001 1500 with the 5.3V8 motor (ext. cab sb 4x4 LT). I was my dads and had the service engine light on for a long time for the P0446 code. I replaced the vent valve and the purge valve and light keeps coming back on. Usually can go for a day or so and then it comes back on and I get the same P0446 code.
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This is on my g/f's 04 silverado 2x2 started about a month ago. Light comes on after rolling a few feet and right after hearing the abs pump run for a second. Then the light pops on, but the brakes feel fine. Only thing I tried so far is to clean the ground wires under the drivers seat but it's still doing it. I know when my sensor(s) went bad on my 00 the abs pump would kick on when stopping! not fun at all, but like I said it stops fine, just the little pump hum then the light.
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Im wanting to delete my abs brake system in my f150 2002 2wd all disc brakes.
I have to change the module with some kinda valve? and turn off the Abs in a tune?
I know the basics of a brake system, but im lost in the abs stuff.
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I have a 2001 Silverado 5.3 liter extended cab. Recently have been having issues with the A/C system making lots of noise. I have identified the noise to two spots and I believe 2 actuators..
1) behind the glove box to the fresh air / recirc door there is a constant clicking / grinding noise. Toggling the recirc button causes the noise to oscillate and the recirc door can be moved by hand, so seems the actuator is basically gone...
2) When the mode is to face only there is a gurgling / clicking noise. When I move the mode selector a little bit off of face only, the noise seems to stop.
I have been looking and looking for a solid write up for the recirc door, can't even seem to find anything that is solid on the part number for that. Seems like I could probably get my hand up behind the glove box to take off that actuator and get the part number, read a couple of write ups that seem to suggest that it is incredibly tight and hard to get to, but it can be done.
Wondering if I just remove the top of the dash while going after the mode door actuator to make life easier? And do I need to get in there with the blend door actuator while I am doing the other two? No dual climate control, so does that leave me with only three actuators? I have the "automatic" a/c controls which are knobs on the dash, I believe these are automatic, not the slides that I believe are referred to as manual?
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I have a 1999 C2500 Chevy Silverado extended cab. On some slow speed stops the ABS kicks in and makes it hard to come to a full stop scary. There are no leaks in the system. The ABS light has come on, on the dash off and on. I thought I saw a post that you can shut off the ABS system not the real fix but safer until I can figure it out.
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I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
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My truck sat for 4 years. 1995 F-250. We needed to replace the brake lines. when you hit the brakes the truck does stop but not fast enough and it will not pass inspection this way. So far I've replaced
1. All the brake lines
2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders
Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!
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First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
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Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
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06 Silverado, service brakes message comes on when hitting the brakes hard. What causes this? Is it possible fluid is low or faulty sensor in master cylinder?
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I've got a 2004 Silverado 2500, crewcab, longbed with a 8100cc gas engine. The truck has 80,000 miles and is in great condition. There's just one little problem - the climate cntrol system will occassionally go to completely hot. When it started a couple years ago, it was weeks between occurences. Now it's about every day and can be multiple times a day. When the system goes to hot, the only way to get back to the proper setting is to turn off the ignition and then restart.
It was happening on both the driver and passenger sides, but the first attempt to repair this issue was to change the envirenmental control computer - now the heat only happens on the driver side. The passenger side remains as set.
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Replaced the condenser and manifold on a 1997 chevy silverado and drew a vacuum on the system, when adding freon to the system the first can pushed the pressure up to 70 PSI on the low side and it has stayed there.
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I own a 1998 C2500 Silverado. Recently I started noticing extreme gasoline fumes. Took truck in to my local mechanic and found out the fuel pump module had come loose from the gas tank. My mechanic dropped the fuel tank to access the fuel pump module for repair and discovered that the fuel tank had caved in ( imploded ) the full length of the tank. I've been told the fuel system is pressurized. How does the pressurized system work and what could have caused deformation of the fuel tank?
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