Ford :: Brakes Malfunction - Pulsating When Braking
Mar 28, 2013
I just had new rear drums put on, my front brake pads are new, my rotors are good...but there is still a pulsating when I brake. When I am just about slowed down you can definitely feel a surging coming from somewhere. The steering wheel does not shake, and I don't feel more than a vibration from the brake pedal. I have taken it to 3 mechanics and replacing the drums was given as a solution. But since I have already done that, the problem is obviously not resolved. I know I need new tires as 2 of them are really cupped and loud...could that be it?
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Got new brakes 4 months ago - except this time put in redstuff ceramic pads.
I've had really bad vibration and grinding lately so I just had the rotors machined and cleaned up.
Some of the vibration is gone but when I apply the brakes more than very lightly I get shaking shuddering including the steering wheel. If I apply the brakes harder it goes away.
I would estimate the pulsating/shuddering/shaking happens when I apply the brakes more than 10 percent up to say 40-50 percent. Very light pressure no problems and hard braking no issues.
This has gotten worse since the servicing. What could be causing this? I've already replaced the propshaft and am replacing the tires.
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When braking i would feel the pedal pulsating...figured the pads were finished. Checked them out and they were not in that great a shape so I changed them all around. I'm still getting a pulsating feeling in the brake pedal.... I just need to bleed them or are the discs warn or warped or something?
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After my 2006 Ford F150 Lariet started shaking and pulsating when braking (38,000 miles) I took the truck to the Ford dealer and asked to have my brake pads checked. They came back and siad they looked fine and I had alot of wear left. Then I mentioned that is was shaking and asked them to check it again, they drove it and then said my rotors are warped and I need to replace the rotors and pads. I don't haul, tow or do anything crazy with it.
Now, here's my questions:
1. Can the rotors go bad and the brake pads be fine?
2. Should I go with a ceramic pad or stick with the OEM?
I'm just a female and don't want to be taken advantage of at the dealers. Cost is not an issue when purchasing a good product.
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05 GX 470...no KDDS...100k miles. When I've been driving a few miles, I feel a pulsating when braking. Feels like it's coming from the front (front left if I had to guess). I put in new rotors and brakes in the front, turned the back rotors and problem still persists, no improvement.
I'm now considering the hub-bearing. However, when I do the standard-check (lift wheel and apply stress from top/bottom) there's no indication of a bad hub bearing.
The problem worsens as I drive faster. When on the highway, if I start to turn the wheel right 'then' brake...the steering wheel pulsates bad. When I turn the wheel left 'then' brake, it's not as bad...but still noticeable. When I start pressing the brake pedal 'then' start to turn the wheel right it's still there but not as bad compared to applying the brake after turning.
There's no pulsation in the break pedal, only the steering wheel and body/chassis.
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I have a 2007 Acura TSX with 117k miles. We had the rotors and pads replaced in July of 2014 at Midas (won't go back there again!). Anyway, we are getting a pulsating in the steering wheel (shaking) when braking at times. Sometimes it is much more noticeable than others. This started shortly after having the pads/rotors installed. I took it back to Midas, and of course they couldn't duplicate the issue.
So, here's my question, can we continue to drive the car until it needs new pads (then I'll change the pads and rotors)? I know that the steering vibration can be annoying at times (it's not AWFUL, but you can tell that they're warped). I really hate to have to replace both right now as money is pretty tight with buying a house.
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I don't use my car much, and park it on the street. I last drove it 3 weeks ago, and it did great on a 6 hour trip. It is worth noting that until this year, the car had lived in Washington, and this 6 hour trip was the first welt salted road experience the car has ever had.
Today, I go to drive it, and the first time I hit the brakes, I'm greeted by the entire car shaking and the brake pedal pulsating. My first thought was "wow, are the roads really that icy? that's a lot of ABS...". I then realized this was absurd, the roads are clearly dry and this doesn't quite feel like ABS (although it's a very similar feeling at high speeds). My next thought was that I must have ice in the pads, it'll melt off soon. So I drove 20 minutes, and it didn't improve. I turned around, and drove home.
When I first moved the car, I had to give it gas to get it to go and heard a snap. I assume this was it being stuck in ice as I hadn't driven for a while and it was very cold. It could have been something breaking, though.
I have since taken off all the wheels, visually inspected the drum brakes for any damage (pads look fine). I looked at the disc brakes and they looked fine. One of the caliper slide pins was completely seized, so I was hoping that'd fix it, but it had no effect at all.
The brake fluid level is full. I seriously doubt this is warped discs, because it drove perfect last time I used it and it was spontaneously so bad today.
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I have a 1999 C2500 Chevy Silverado extended cab. On some slow speed stops the ABS kicks in and makes it hard to come to a full stop scary. There are no leaks in the system. The ABS light has come on, on the dash off and on. I thought I saw a post that you can shut off the ABS system not the real fix but safer until I can figure it out.
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What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
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I was in the RX450h with my son, everything's fine, its running smooth like a purring cat. I get to the bottom of the hill at a traffic light and stop with my foot on the brake.
Then it just started pulsating, engine comes on, goes off, comes on again, goes off - almost like a pressure washer with an internal leak
It went away after 30 s or so and hasn't come back. No engine lights or hybrid system warnings.
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I started noticing that the brakes would pulsate, or grab momentarily when almost stopped. I figured that the rotors might be warped, and as I was planning on putting on new green stuff pads and rotors I was waiting for a convenient time to change them.
Now I have noticed some type of fluid, I'm guessing grease, on the side of one spoke of one of the wheels. I recently replaced the steel wheels with SE 16" wheels. I didn't see any leaks then but I guess I wasn't looking like I should have been.
I'm trying to decide what I should be looking for. CV boot leak? Front wheel bearing seal? Brake fluid?
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I recently bought a 2007 Sonata V6, and the brakes pulsate (when applied) at highway speeds, so I am looking to replace the front rotors & pads. I have been told that the OEM rotors/pads aren't great & that as a result many owners have a brake pulsating/vibration issue.
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So I've been driving my tiggy with the rusted brakes from when I left it for a few months during this past winter season outdoors. I had VW check on it and they said that the only way to fix the problem is to replace the brakes (rotors and pads, I assume) for over $1k. Is there really no way to maybe scrape/sand the rusts out? Right now, when I step on the brakes, I have the pulsating feel and the car shakes when coming from a high speed. At first I thought it would go away after driving it a bit and stepping on the brakes since I did just that last year when I left it for a month during the winter season as well. If the only way is to have the brakes replaced, then I guess I have to shell out the money.
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When I downshift while braking, especially in the lower gears, it feels like the brake pedal depresses further. And why does this happen?
Also, do people find you get cleaner downshifts if you have the gas pressed down a little, or do you downshift while braking, or just downshift without either?
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I saw a really weird thing happen about half an hour ago. Hadn't driven that car today until I made a quick trip a bit ago to pick something up.
As I was coming back from the store I noticed the display was showing extremely low numbers with barely any speed/coasting. After I got up to ~30mph and started slowing down, I noticed the display was actually showing the mpg decrease as I applied the brake.
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So Ive got slotted rotors with Hawk pads up front. I put them on a while back, pads are probably getting to the end of their life. Rear brakes and rotors were done by the dealer recently. X code springs up front, stock springs with RAS in the rear.
Under quick, semi-hard braking I get some heavy shudder, not sure if its from the from or the rear. I had been thinking it was probably the brakes themselves, and planned on addressing the fronts soon. But then I read something around here about axle wrap under braking, and am now wondering if that's the cause. I am pretty sure that big rubber cone on my rear springs is gone, and I read that that is what prevents axle wrap.
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I have a 1997 Explorer, AWD. On Sunday, the right front side started making a really loud, high-pitched squeal, which stops when I step on the brake. I had my mechanic check it, and my brakes are in fine shape (replaced by the same mechanic less than a year ago), so why is this happening?
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Just replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
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It's a farm truck, lumber getter trailer puller. Not driven often, after sitting for awhile the brakes seem to be pulsing in front like antilock, as if braking on ice. I checked both front caliper springs or plunger slides and they are free not froze up.
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My truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.
Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.
I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:
1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.
2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.
3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.
It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.
I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.
It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.
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When I am going between 55+ mph my car starts to shake when I use my brakes. The mechanic at the Mazda dealership told me that the brake rotors are warped and need replacing. I asked the mechanic how this happened when I have such low mileage on the car. He said that the rotors would warp if they overheated which could happen if I brake going downhill, doing a lot of city driving, or if carrying a heavy load.
My car has only about 11,600 miles on it. Monday-Friday I drive 5 miles to work each way. On weekends I drive about 50 miles on the highway. I do not ride the brakes and I can only think of two times in the 2 years I have had the car that I have had to slam the brakes on hard. Clearly, most of the brake use is during my drive to work, but that is only 5 miles one way.
I explained that I do not carry heavy loads since I normally drive by myself and maybe a dog or two. I also explained that the other situations he posted of braking when going downhill or doing a lot of city driving sound like normal driving situations, and not anything that should cause rotors to warp? The mechanic said that he could only tell me what would cause my rotors to warp and that how I drive is "on me".... grrrr. Not happy with that response at all.
I bought an extended warranty when I bought the car new and was at this time told that because the rotors are warped, as opposed to cracked, they aren't covered by the extended warranty because warping is considered a result of routine use. The repair is also not covered because I am over 12 months on the normal warranty.
Does this scenario sound right in a car with this mileage? Could I possibly have warped the rotors during a 5-mile commute to work? If so, what do I need to do to prevent this from happening again, because I am not willing to pay $350+ every 12,000 miles to replace rotors? I have been driving for over 40 years and have never run into this problem before. This is my first Mazda though, and it very well may be my last.
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