Yesterday driving home the heat/AC turned on full bore by itself and would only blow warm air. It will turn off. The rear control works correctly but the front will not blow cool air.
View 12 Replies2001 Ford Escape.
Blend door seems to be moving properly...(or at least the control arm is...) Truck gets up to operating temperature quickly enough.
It does blow warm air, but never gets hot...can't keep up with single digit temps. Every thing looks to be operating properly...
Just had the truck in the dealership for a bad blend door/ heater core case. Heat would only blow out warm on the passenger side, blows cold on drivers side. Dealership replaced the case, heat works normal on both sides now. It was a little warm out yesterday so i turned on the A/C, frosty cold on passenger side, warm on drivers side, temperature does change when i select different temperatures (dual zone.)
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Taurus. When we bought the car the heat worked fine. One day we went to turn the heat on and it would only blow out cool air. We replaced the thermostat and that did not work. The blower works fine it just doesn't blow any hot air out. Also, the driver side seat adjusting control went out. The seat will slide backwards and will raise the seat up and down, but when you try to slide the seat forward it just makes a funny sound. It was working fine and the other day I went to move my seat forward and it wouldn't go forward.
View 2 RepliesI thought blend door only adjusted temperature. Mine is manual? System no ECM control. Need defrost....
View 14 Repliestoday me and the wife where riding around doing some things before the snow storm. we went to the store and the heat was great but when we came out cranked the truck and all of a sudden no heat at all would just blow cold air. im not trying to go to a dealer and get charged an arm and a leg so where do i start.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1990 E250 and the heat does not blow. I have only had the van a year and it somewhat worked when I got it, but at the end of least winter It stopped blowing. It does not matter what setting I have it on low or high. if I turn the defrost on and put my hand on the dash I can feel warm air but it does not blow. It is the same for the vent, I can feel warm air coming out but does not blow. Sometimes if I hit a bump it seems like it will blow a bit harder but not like it should. My question is, should I just replace the blower motor, or is there something else I should check first?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 ford taurus. It has the 3.0 ohv engine. The heater has quit working. I recently flushed the coolant system as well as the heater core and replaced the thermostat with no change in the heat situation. It will blow warm air for about 30 to 45 seconds then turns cool .
View 10 RepliesJust went on a trip to SC. It was hot as hell - 100F most of the trip. The a/c would blow cool (not exactly cold) for a while and then go luke warm (way better than outside but not particularly refreshing) for a while. So I was reasonably comfortable but definitely not cold.
This would happen about every 15-30min where I felt like the compressor had stopped working for a while. I am thinking the compressor is probably limping along and about to die. Usually I thought these things just up and die though. Clogged accumulator? IDK - nothing has been done to the a/c system since 2009 head gaskets.
I'm thinking this is probably just the way they are, but I don't understand why........... I have a '12 F250 supercab 6.7 FX4.... truck is an XL, no supplemental heat or anything. If it sits outside over night, and I go out in the morning after say a 35-40 degree night, start it up and let it run 10-15 min then drive 5 miles down the road to town, both temp gauges are still pegged on the cold side, and there's virtually no heat blowing on the defrost. Even if it sits in the heated garage over night, same temp, same drive to town in the morning, same lack of any heat.
My old 2010 V10 that I traded for the 6.7, and my current 09 5.4 are the exact opposite of this. I can start the 5.4 cold, leave within a minute or two, and be making some heat within a few minutes. By the time I get to town, everything is well in the normal range, and I'm turning the heater down cuz it's too hot. Even once the 6.7 is fully warmed up the heater doesn't seem to make near the heat that the gas trucks do. I love the 6.7, I just find this a bit odd. Am I missing something, or is this just the way they all are?
I have a 2009 f150 fx4 it will not blow cold air or heat on any setting. I have replaced the resistor and it stopped working again if i smack the black box the resistor is in it will work again. My question is where is the blower motor and how hard of a job is it to change. I just ordered the motor.
View 2 Repliesmy Saturn ls does not blow out any heat at all... what would b the problem with the car??
View 2 RepliesSunday I bought a 2001 f250/5.4 to replace my 91 f250. I didnt drive it yesterday, but this morning on my drive to work the heater was very weak, it seemed to blow warm for the most part, but was barely pushing air even on high. I flipped it over to A/C to see if it blew any harder and it did. Does the blower motor need replace? if so why does the AC blow harder than the heater?
View 14 RepliesI have had my 2008 Pontiac G5 since 2009. I got it used with about 32000 miles and it currently has 110,000 miles. It is the basic model G5. I love my car and want to keep it for a long time. It is in great condition except for one problem: the A/C. So it basically only will blow out heat, even if I have everything off. Sometime if I turn the knob quickly from Cold to hot to cold I will get some cold air but only for a few minutes. The thing is I just can't turn it off as it is always blowing out some hot air which makes my car miserably hot in the summer.
Also when it does blow out cold air, the fan is weaker then with hot air. All these issues have gotten progressively worse over the last few years. It used to be that at times I would have A/C for long periods of time when I did the rapid spin of the knob but now the spinning of the knob does not even work. I have had many repair shops to get it fixed but nothing has worked (people have tried new Freon, fixing the door part that flips from hot to cold,etc.) What could be my issue? I want to keep my car but making any long trips is very difficult in any weather above 75 degrees as the car becomes a sauna. I have had this problem for the last 4 summers and just want it fixed already! I want a car with A/C.
2005 Elantra here with 120k miles
Problem: Not heat will come out unless
1) I don't turn on the Fan Motor at all. Very Nice heat will "bleed" out of the vents as long as there is no Fan on - on any setting.
2) Lukewarm heat will come out if I am giving the car gas or revving it. As soon as it goes back to idle or I am no longer giving gas it goes back to no heat at all.
Things I have tried:
Topped up the radiator and tank (radiator has been replaced)
Water pump replaced
No leaks
Thermostat is opening ( Upper hose gets hot, Lower hose stays cold for a while and then gets hot)
Flushed heater core with a garden hose.
Inlet hose to heater core is hotter than outlet hose but outlet hose is not cold to the touch.
Radiator cap has been replaced
Car does not run hot at all
Another question on this, my 2008 F250 with auto climate has decided to only blow heat on the passenger side...do you agree that it is an actuator? If so how hard or easy is this to fix and what is the best fix.
While here, on another note, I noticed a rubber line hanging right over my front diff it looks like it could go onto a nipple coming off the diff? Is this a vacuum line for the diff that I need to put back?
I am having a problem with the heater on my 98 2.7 Intrepid. Will not blow hot air when idling (just warm). After several minutes of driving with heat on air temp goes from hot to warm. It might just be me, but it seems like the air flow is cooler coming out of the defrost vents than from the dash/floor vents. Thermostat has been replaced (proper operation verified before installing). Had to replace gooseneck and heater coil supply tubing due to a leaking bleed valve. There appears to be NO air in the system.
Heater core was backflushed, there appears to be no restriction. Hose temp on exit line is approx. 15 deg. cooler than supply line when fan is running. Blend door actuator was replaced last spring (motor shorted). When temp control is moved from hot to cold temp changes drastically and door can be heard moving. On-board ATC diagnostics indicate all is good. Engine is running at normal operating temperature, not overheating or running cold. Is there a cabin filter or inlet supply for the air that could possibly be obstructed? Air flow seems adequate, not restricted. AC works fine.
I have a 2000 suburban with a 1500 motor and 300000 miles. Last year I replace the water pump and the thermostat. The heater would blow warm but not hot . But only when I start to drive. Yesterday I decide to change thermostat again thinking the new one from last year was faulty. Now the heater only blows cold air .
View 3 RepliesMy heater quit blowing hot or warm air all of the sudden. I took my mechanic and they said it showed no codes and were afraid to mess with it so I took it to a dealership. They worked on it most of a day. Said nothing showed a code as bad, they got into it and found the air going into the heater core was hot, but it was cool coming out. They spent some time flushing the coolant and said they found some sediment in the coolant fluid. They were hoping to flush out anything clogging the heater core.
View 8 RepliesI just replaced the radiator in my 2001 Elantra and now the heater will not blow warm air. Also the temp gauge on the dash stays at cold.
I have replaced all radiator hoses ...
New thermostat
New thermostat sensor
Having issues with the AC system turning on to blow cold air? The problem seems to be intermittent so I don't know how I would be able to replicate the problem if/when I take the car in for service. My problem typically occurs when I start the vehicle. The AC will be on but will blow warm air. I seem to have to continually play with the HVAC controls for it to finally kick on and blow cold air.
When I searched, I read that the malfunction may be caused by a bad solder in the system but wasn't able to find a concrete resolution to the problem. Should I call a few dealerships to see if the service writers are aware of the issue? Being in AZ, not having AC for the first 5-10 minutes in the car can be brutal. The car in question is a 2014 3.6 SEL ...