Ford Excursion :: How To Blow Out Rear Heater Lines
Jan 16, 2015
I'm 1/2 way through a flush and water pump replacement. Its going to get cold and I don't want to blow any heater lines. I have the pump off and the block drained (I also managed to get some coolant into the block - but not the rear heat).
I don't see an easy place at the front to disconnect the lines. I'd like to blow them out just to be safe. What is the best place to disco in the front or if I even need to - can I just disco 1 in the rear and then blow in both direction?
I fear that there may be some vent door closed that will prevent flow. I can't start the truck - I can turn the key on.
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Here's what I have. 02 X 7.3L 4x4.
Heater will work fine. Then out of nowhere just blow cold. I can turn it off then back on it'll blow hot for 1 minute or 20 minutes. Then out of nowhere blow cold again. It doesn't matter if I'm highway driving or city driving.
I'm kinda thinking it may be the door in the duct that's just closing. I real don't know.
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Cannot figure out how to get the heated air to flow through the back via the rear vents. All I get is outside air. I cannot find anything about it in the manual. The dealer has no clue but is trying to find something on it. New 2009 Santa Fe Limited.
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Picked up a 2001 Excursion a few weeks ago. Trying to sort out some of its issues. The rear HVAC seems to only blow one temperature... Luke warm. Front A/C and heat work fine. I checked the temp blend actuator and it seems to work fine. The rear expansion valve gets cold and there is condensation that drips from the rear. What else I can check?
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So rolling down I29 and its cold and the wind is howling. Rear tire goes out sidewall blow. Thinking load rating of C is not enough for the EX?
Anyways not a big deal cause I'm smart! I checked my spare and all the stuff I need to change it cause i'm prepared. Go to put the tire iron on that I removed from under the hood perfect fit too. Guess what, it is way to small for the lugs. Luckily I had earned some karma points the day before working for a guy with a 02 F250 7.3 who's alternator died. A guy in a suburban stopped and his wrench was close enough to crack the nuts.
So after searching and not finding much my two questions are. Any replacement for the factory tire iron that bolts under the hood? Is there another vehicle other then an Ex I can take it from? I like the idea of it being there bolted down under the hood.
What load rating is everyone running and or recommends. I noticed my spare was an F lol which is far from C. My EX is 7.3 and She was loaded heavy with black friday goods.
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I have a 94 ford Taurus all of a sudden my ac doesn't blow cold and my heat doesn't blow hot. Also every now and again I hear a sound like an alarm clock coming from passenger side??
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I have 2005 4x4 6.0 excursion. The rear heater stop working. I just get cold air in the back seats.
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While diagnosing a problem with my rear AC not working, I pulled the rear plenum apart. I noticed the rear heater coil was really hot even though I did not turn the heat on at all that day.
I suspect a bad heater control valve. The one that stops hot coolant from going to the core when the AC is on. I have manual temp controls so I assumen it is vacuum controlled. All data does not give me a location or vacuum routing specs for the valve so I am asking here.
1) Where do I find the heater control valve?
2) Does it shut off the coolant to both the front and rear heater cores or just the front?
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Wife just told me tonight that the overhead console and rear heater are not working in the excursion. Of course, we have a 3 hour drive tomorrow and it is cold outside.. The posts seem to center on either the readout not working or the heater not working, but not both. Trying to minimize time troubleshooting outside in the cold.
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I have a 2003 Ex with the 7.3. There is a leak in the rear coolant line just in front of the rear right tire. Is there any way to bypass the rear heater under the hood?
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So my overhead ac/heater control lights front and rear went out, where the lights are to replace them.
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I have a '03 f 150 screw 4x4 with 5.4. I had to replace the heater core in the truck and I could hear air going through before the replacement. Now I can still hear it, have tried to burp the system a few times, even jacked up drivers side front on an incline to get reservoir higher. Ended up replacing the hose with the flow restrictor and that worked or so it seemed. The noise is back and I am lost on what to do next. I tested the head gasket and that came back negative also. What to do next or possibly what the issue is?
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2000 f150 heater only got warm.
Flushed system, new thermostat, new coolant. Then NO warm air. A/C blows cold. Checked heater blend door and actuator both intact and working. Heater core not leaking, system holds pressure and doesn't leak.
Is there another automatic valve that could be shutting off flow to heater core?????
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I have a 97 E-150 with factory air (vin L) the heat/cool quit working just before summer it quit blowing cold. The old man took it to some mechanic (i hate when he does that) and he fixed it so there was air only saying he had a choice of cold or hot (being summer in the desert he chose cold). Now that it is cold and we are traveling where defrost is needed, I need heat!!! I went to the Ford dealer and picked up a new potentiometer and that did not fix the problem. whenever the unit is on the a/c compressor kicks on........ Is this electrical or vacuum and where might i find the problem?
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I've got the front of the excursion done with my spring swap finally and now it's onto the rear. How do I move these ac lines along the passenger side to get them out of the way from that shackle bolt? I see the brackets holding them but since they are all hard lines how many do I have to remove?
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I believe my rear AC lines in my 2003 EB V10 X pooped the bed on me today and Ford wants 3K to fix. I'm wondering if I could fix it my self. The leak was a bright green color so I'm assuming it was 134 or what ever in in the AC. The leak is right behind the passenger side of the motor just a little lower than the head. The dealer wants to replace almost everything for 3k but they don't want to budge on just repairing the broken line.
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I am going to be changing my brake lines in the rear and to the rear of my X. i ordered the rubber lines. what i would like to know is the part number for the steel axle tube line and the line that runs the from from front to back.. I don't know if it matters but when i looked up the left caliper line I had to get it for to 12/20/99...
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Ac is leaking where the 2 lines go into the condenser. I went to Ford and bought OEM o-rings thinking it would be an easy fix. HA! New o-rings were put in by a mom and pop garage. Still leaking. Guy said it wasn't, but with my uv light I could clearly see the dye. Went to a recommended guy. He took it apart, cleaned the hoses where the o-rings sit. They were kinda dirty from leakage and stuff so he cleaned them up with a wire brush and 2000 grit.
Recharged, and we both looked with his huge uv light. Bad condenser, drivers side lit up like a night light. Replaced the condenser with an aftermarket condenser. Recharged, STILL LEAKING from where the hoses go into the condenser. Vacuumed down the system... Removed hoses, checked o-ring fit. They are snug on the hoses and have some resistance when plunging the hoses back in. What gives? I'm 360.00 into this this week...
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I have a 2007 PI and recently lost heat and ac. All the controls do what they are supposed to do but both heat and ac blow room temp only. Fuses and relays are all good. Is this a blend door actuator problem? This is my guess and I'm basing the next question on a yes answer. Is it possible to access the actuator by making an eightXfour hole in the top of the dash above the radio. I would prefer not to have to pull the dash out of the way since everything else works good.
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To kick off the coldest week (so far) of the winter season, I noticed a problem with the heater controls in my 06 Explorer with manual temp. controls. No matter which fan settings I select (defrost, panel+floor, etc), air does not blow through some of the vents. I can hear the fan working and air flows through the defrost vents and through the floor vents, but the there is no airflow through the vents below radio and round vents on the far left and far right sides of the dashboard.
Perhaps related to this problem, a couple months ago I replaced the blower motor resistor because fan speeds 1 and 2 did not work, only 3 and 4 worked, so whenever I would turn on the heat or A/C, it was on full blast all the time. After replacing the resistor, the issue was resolved and all of the speeds worked well. I guess I just never realized the issue with the vents, or maybe the problem happened because I replaced the resistor?
Since I'm not too knowledgeable with the climate control circuit, I'm not too sure where to begin, perhaps the switch or blower motor?
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So the heater on my 2001 f150 will only blow through cold air. I thought that I may have a heater core clog so I back flushed it with water until it was coming through clean and unrestricted but that didn't solve the problem.
Now, some things to note are a potential coolant leak. I can't seem to find one but I filled up the antifreeze about two months ago and when I checked it the other day it was more or less empty. I've filled it up again and I will monitor it for the next couple of days.
Another thing to mention is that no matter what setting I have the heater on (ie 'panel' or 'defrost') I get cold air blowing at the passenger side's feet. Is this indicative of a hose leak or something?
Also worth noting is that the intake hose to the heater core gets hot after driving but the outtake stays cool. This is why I originally thought I had a core clog.
Should I be checking my blend door? If so how to I access it?
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