I just installed a new offset high torque gear reduction starter on my 2000 Excursion, and I noticed it starts much faster, but it sounds like the starter is knocking against something. Is this a straight swap out with the old style starter, or do I need to modify something?
View 14 RepliesPulled 3 starters at the junkyard to replace one that has a bad solenoid. Have a 2002 Buick Regal LS with 3800 series II engine. Found some on 3100 engines and one from a 3800. My starter has about 10 teeth on the gear that engages the flywheel. Some of the ones I pulled had smaller gears with only about 8 teeth.
Why the difference? Also one GM Delco starter was slightly longer (about 1/2 inch) than mine and had a small black hollow tube about 1 inch long at the rear of the starter and at the bottom. It fell off when I touched it. Looks like it might be a drain hole in case some water gets in to the starter. What is this really for?
I recently purchased a 2004 Excursion Limited v10 with 129,000 miles.
It has developed a strange sound only when it is shifting to the high gear where the tach drops down to abour 1500 rpms.
It sounds like a 'whump' momentarily, but doesn't seem to be slipping after that. I don't know if the tranny fluid has been changed, although it looks clear on the dipstick.
One mechanic said they would not do a transmission flush on a vehicle with more than 75,000 miles because they didn't want to be responsible for tranny problems caused by doing that. What's going on?
Took the wife to work today, she has a big nail in her tire. The X started idling high at red lights, right before I dropped her off, It didn't want to change gears until about 3200 rpms. And change gears hard. About a Mile from home, X started driving normal again...
View 6 RepliesMy 2006 F150 King Ranch 90K 5.4 lags both torque and power in addition to only 11-12 MPG
In the city it does not bother me to much but when on the highway trying its very annoying. I used to have 2005 F-150 before so I know the difference. When I accelerate its ok but lags some serious power especially at high RPM. but without any hesitation. When I try to tow my trailer or go uphill it has no torque. I still haven't tried a dyno reading
Note: The engine runs smooth, no misfires or shows no codes. The only codes I got before was for the evaporation system but disappeared after I replaced the Fuel Pump Driver Module
Now I already replaced the: Spark plugs, mass airflow sensor, cats, air filter, fuel filter + fuel pump driver module, bought another tuner. I even took it to the dealership without any findings
Now I am beginning to think if the engine timing could be slightly wrong. I just can't figure out what it is if it throws no codes and runs perfectly smooth. It's just like it's not getting enough air or fuel but without any hesitation or misfire.
So here I am driving away for the fuel station and then the tranny tries to shift and I hear and feel a loud clunk followed by no power. I have had no previous issues with the tranny but I believe it has not had any previous work done. The truck is an 02 7.3L with 200500 miles. I am guessing the torque converter is the culprit it still had very little forward motion when I tried to move the truck didn't matter what gear I was in. I intend to have the tranny beefed up but don't intend to go crazy. I do tow an 11,000 lbs TT on a fairly regular basis and have a PHP 6 position switch which can be set for as much as 120 hp from stock but don't do any hot rodding. I am mostly just looking to beef it up and provide as much strength towing.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 excursion and am trying to remove the second row bench seat. How do you get to the back set of of torque screws? The front ones are easy to get to but the rear are under the seat trac and I haven't been able to get to them. I am pretty sure I am overlooking the obvious.
View 3 RepliesCouldn't get the bolts out of the bushings so just bought new mounts. Was wondering to have the torque value for the u-bolts...
View 2 RepliesNeed to diagnose:
- Truck idles a little rough sounds a little like " puff , puff ", when put in reverse - still sounds the same ( looping hesitation )
- When accelerating feels pretty good until about 40-45 then it starts to shake , shudder and loose power. Shakes and shudder pretty violently.
Did a full ATF fluid service - no improvement
Aside from that it does not seem to have any other shifting issues at all. Problem is intermittent. Throughout the day it may run fine, and then at another point in the day it runs like poop when hitting 45+.
Could it be a bad Ignition Coil Pack ? Car has ZERO codes appearing - would either TC or COP set one off ?
Here is a pic of the one COP that I found does have a crack on the top ( passenger side ) - not sure if that could cause the truck to act the way it does.
On my '99's 5.4l with 55k, I've got a slight misfire occasionally with lower rpms and higher torque - basically going up a grade that's not quite steep enough for the truck to downshift, but clears up right away the instant it downshifts and gets some rpm. It generally seems like weak spark, or perhaps an injector spray pattern such that it doesn't always get fired off.
To give some history, the truck had more or less sat in a farm garage for ~5 years driven maybe once a quarter before I picked it up ~2 years ago. When I first picked it up, it misfired all over the place. I didn't think much of it, considered it gummy fuel, and dumped a couple cans of SeaFoam in the tank, replaced all 8 plugs (pretty sure with motocraft plugs though I don't explicitly remember), checked my air filter, etc and the misfires cleared right up and it purred nice and smooth like a happy little motor. That was at ~45k, or 10,000 miles ago.
Now it's starting to hiccup again and I'm not entirely sure why. The plugs should be nowhere near burned up yet and there are no lights on the dash. It's never come close to overheating and the only oil leak I know of is that famous small drip on the inside-rear of the passenger side bank drips on the exhaust header just enough to stink every so often when I come to a stop. I don't believe I'm burning any oil and certainly not near enough oil to foul a plug. Including that drip, I go about 3,000 miles before needing to add a quart. I've dumped 2 bottles of Berryman's in the fuel tank and it seems to work, but it's definitely not gone, so I'm thinking it's probably not oil related and more fuel/spark.
I'd had it in the back of my head to replace the fuel filter as well, but I hadn't gotten around it yet as it seems to be getting fuel at high rpm's just fine. I went ahead and bought the filter the other day and plan to install it shortly. It doesn't really make sense that that's what it would be, but I figure I'm due and it's worth a shot. If they were old plugs, I'd just replace them out, but they seem to new to be causing any issues.
I recently bought a 2001 x w 145,000 miles. The transmission was making a whining noise when i bought it but it still shifted smooth and ran great. The truck has been serviced by the local Ford dealer its entire life with dozens of routine maintenance performed. With 145,000 miles should I wait for the converter to go out and just install a new transmission. It only gets drove on the weekends to go to the lake.
View 7 RepliesI removed my drift shaft to get balanced since I have felt a vibration at 55-60 mph. After removing the driveshaft I noticed there is some play in the output shaft when I grab a hold of the yoke on the transmission. The play is a slightly up and down. If my memory serves me right that should not be. Seal is not leaking but need diagram of this yoke off the output shaft. I know in past on other vehicles there is sometimes a crush washer. Also what is the torque specification for that output shaft nut?
View 3 RepliesWe've gone through pretty much every other option as to the vibration on take off and other high torque situations and have pretty much settled on the the driveshaft as the issue. I added traction bars recently thinking that the old leaf springs just aren't up to the job anymore. That seems to have worked some but it's still there. We've gone through the rear diff also and that's good. I'm looking at options for replacement of the shaft. What are the current thoughts on one piece shafts? Is aluminum the better option?
View 14 RepliesWhen running up through the gears under normal acceleration I can feel almost a double shift in 5th gear. It doesn't occur using tow/haul so I assume it is the TC locking up. Everything else seems fine. Truck has 9k miles, mostly towing. 2016 6.2 ....
View 6 RepliesOk so here is my problem now. I'm sure its in the tramny but not sure what else. My shift from 3-5 has always been a little hard. Yesterday on my way to work I noticed shifts 1 thru 3 were hitting hard. Once I got up to 65 mph it was okay. Then pulling into work when I shifted to reverse it didn't go into gear right away and then it would hit into gear. Later that evening on my way home from work it was shifting the same but seemed worse. Then my tow/haul light started flashing and it seemed like the torque convertor wouldn't lock in. It would just stay in 5th gear and the more throttle I gave it the rpms would go up but I would only get a little response from it. Then a few miles down the road it just completely shut off on me. It will not even try to turn over. I could also hear a noise coming from underneath the truck. Something ive never heard before. I really need to figure this out
View 14 RepliesI have an issue to where every once in a while my truck will not shift and when it does shift it slams into gear, and my overdrive light flashes and then I'll turn the truck off let it sit and crank it back up and it drives fine and the overdrive light is off. It shifts normal and smooth other than when this happens. Not sure if it is my torque converter or maybe a solenoid or what. My truck is an 07 f250 6.0 with 192,000.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L with 190,000 miles. My wife was driving it and the vehicle stopped moving. Sounds like the torque converter whining and will not drive in any gear or 4wd.
View 1 RepliesI have a very small oil leak that looks to be just above the starter in the passenger side of my Excursion. It never puddles but I can see it is a little wet and oily in the area. I smell it once in a while burning off of the exhaust but again very rarely and minor. It's a $4000 truck and has plenty of rust underneath and I have no intention of pulling the heads to replace a gasket if that is where it's coming from.
Just wondering if there is a likely culprit known in this area. I know I've seen reference to such a leak somewhere but I can't find any threads on it quickly. If it's a head basket, I assume it would be losing anti freeze more than oil, but where I can look? I am not above using some sort of surface putty or stop leak type of thing if it's got a chance of stopping it for a year.
I also am getting ready to pull off the passenger side exhaust manifold to replace the gasket and just can't wait to see how many studs have broken or will break off. I have until spring (camping season) to get it done and don't really ever need to drive it, so I have time when its not too cold in Wisconsin.
I am replacing the rear stabilizer bar and also decided to go with new links being i am upgrading. My concern is the torque value in the hyundai service manual. It shows 72.3 ~ 86.8 lb-ft for the part of the link that mounts to the control arm? below is the link so you can see the part. This just sounds way too high to me... I know this is what hyundai says and also on the Moog instructions it states 78 ft-lbs!
Federal-Mogul eCatalog Resource Center
Tightening torque : 98.1 ~ 117.7 N.m (10.0 ~ 12.0 kgf.m, 72.3 ~ 86.8 lb-ft)
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Drove about 10 mins and parked. Came back 5 mins later and wouldn't start. Starter click can be heard when trying to crank but doesn't turn engine. Checked fuse (#113) and starter relay - both are good. AAA came out and tried to jump but no success. Flat bed towed back to my house last night.
This morning, woke up bright and early to pick up brand new Napa Premium starter. Replaced it thinking that was it. No dice- same thing, 1-click, no turning of engine.
Batteries & terminals both good & clean. Hooked up 2 additional fully charged deep cell marine batteries via jumper cables and no difference. Voltage @ starter terminal = 12.4V.
When cranking, voltage drops all the way down to 1-2V if holding the key in the crank position (1 click and then nothing). Returns back up to ~12V when released.
Jumped pos terminal to starter solenoid, got clicking but doesn't turn engine.Is my tranny or engine frozen...?!
Well It has been an expensive month for my Ex. New starter, Then a miss-fire. I ended up replacing all 10 plugs, and all 10 coils and I got ford coils.
Today I got in it, hit the ignition. It started for a split second and stalled. Went to go fire it up and well, its turning over faster then usual like its not getting any fuel or something. Now I am at the mercy of a local town shop, because the tow to the shop I run is about 450.00. I am thinking its the fuel pump... But we will know shortly.