Ford Excursion :: 6.0L - Starter Not Turning Engine - Click Sound
Jul 4, 2015
Drove about 10 mins and parked. Came back 5 mins later and wouldn't start. Starter click can be heard when trying to crank but doesn't turn engine. Checked fuse (#113) and starter relay - both are good. AAA came out and tried to jump but no success. Flat bed towed back to my house last night.
This morning, woke up bright and early to pick up brand new Napa Premium starter. Replaced it thinking that was it. No dice- same thing, 1-click, no turning of engine.
Batteries & terminals both good & clean. Hooked up 2 additional fully charged deep cell marine batteries via jumper cables and no difference. Voltage @ starter terminal = 12.4V.
When cranking, voltage drops all the way down to 1-2V if holding the key in the crank position (1 click and then nothing). Returns back up to ~12V when released.
Jumped pos terminal to starter solenoid, got clicking but doesn't turn engine.Is my tranny or engine frozen...?!
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2001 6.8 Ex wouldn't start again today Get a loud click but starter doesn't turn over. Yesterday jumped it, took it to Advance where they checked battery and alternator; both checked out great. To start it this morning I ran my negative jumper from battery to engine block and it fired up It's about 12 degrees out and was same yesterday. Thinking dirty/bad ground somewhere ? Do I just start following the negative cable everywhere it goes or am I missing something here No garage and it is chilly.
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I have a 2010 Accent with 106 000 km on it (Canada). A couple months ago (just as warranty expired) the car would not start. Nothing. Engine would not even turn over. Just a click of the starter solenoid. battery had a load test and is fine. Removed negative battery cable and cleaned the cable where it bolts to the body under the battery tray. Battery terminals were both cleaned at the same time.
Things worked fine for a couple weeks and the problem is back but worse. Everything in the car works fine when it won't start. If I continually turn the key to the start position it will eventually start to turn over and start fine. Sometimes it takes 20-30 turns of the key till it turns over and starts. When it does turn over and start, the engine turns over fine at the normal speed. Not slow like a weak battery.
Dealer is useless. Had a coil go a couple months back just before the warranty expired and they told us that the reason the coil went was that the car had been rust proofed by someone other than Hyundai.
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The customer brought in her 130,000 mile 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis complaining that the starter would click several times as she turned the key again and again, before it would make the the engine crank like crazy. I saw that the positive battery cable was badly corroded, and replaced the aftermarket end with a new aftermarket end. Everything was nice and clean. No difference. I tested the battery for load voltage with my good old Sun VAT-60. It tested good, sufficient voltage after 15 seconds under a 100 amp load. I removed the fuel pump relay so that the car would not stay running for long, and then would not start when the starter did engage. It drew 120 amps while cranking. That's within spec for a fully warm engine.
I think what she has is a bad solenoid atop the starter, or perhaps a bad spot on the commutator that moves slightly with each click until the brushes are in another position. Then it will turn OK.
I think a new starter is needed. Am I on the right track? I don't want to crawl under it unless I have to, and she doesn't have money for me to make a mistake.
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This started a few months ago. At first it only happened when making a hard right turn, its a repeated click or grinding noise. Over time it has gotten worse, and now happens when turning either direction, and its worse the faster the car is going. Turing into the parking space at our apartment is fine... turning from one street to another going to work is not. Various things I looked up suggested the cv joint, but when I went to parts stores websites to look up prices all it gave me was cv boot kits in the results. Is this whats actually wrong, and is it something easily fixed for a DIY person?
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When I'm turning left or right I'm hearing a click-clack from the front, what this may be?
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When turning right, either sharply or just during a long gradual turn in the road, I hear a grinding or running sound consistent with RPM coming from the rear - I think the right rear. It driving flat, no sound. If turning left, no sound. To me, it seems if the right rear is unloaded a bit weight wise, the sound occurs.
I'm thinking wheel bearing. Hoping not differential, but it really does seem to come from right rear not center of rear. Only if turning right and moving weight to left side.
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My passenger side front wheel is making a thump, thump, thump sound when turning. The wheel is smooth when turning, but when returning to straight it kicks everyone 1/32 of a turn.
I know my sway bar bushings are bad, but I doubt this would be caused from that?
Should I be checking ball joints, hubs? It's been like this for 2-3 weeks
2000 4x4 v10
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So I just completed my hydroboost install and fixed exhaust manifolds. After this install the below problem started.
ISSUE: While going slow and straight no problems. Slightest bit of turning effort left or right makes a sound like a tire rubbing on leaf springs. I can also feel the vibration. It happens in drive while moving or in neutral while moving. Happens wither hubs in auto or locked. Happens in 2wd or 4wd. It's not the steering pump cause it wines a tad now when brakes applied and I turn steering wheel. So I know what that sounds like. Expected that.
Jacked it up and checked for any movement in steering or ball joints and found nothing.
X does not make the sound above 15 mph. It's annoying....sounds and feels exactly like tire lugs hitting the leaf springs but they are not.
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I'm having problems with starting my car when the engine is hot. Cold engine starts normally. But when the engine is hot and when I turn the engine off and return after few hours- it wouldn't start or it's very hard to start. Starter keeps turning but the engine revolutions are very low and the engine wont start. When I give it some gas it starts and the engine runs normally. I have already changed the coolant temperature sensor and one of the coils- no change. And the coolant seems to be wanishing too, but it happens very slowly. (There are no signs of leakage anywhere.) Maybe it's something to do with it?
The car is 2001 year VW Passat 2.3 V5 125kw (azx).
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Have a 97 Ford explorer. Over 270,000 miles on it. Recently had Crank sensor, Crank case vent tube, plugs wires replaced along with intake manifold gaskets. Also had fuel injectors cleaned out. Now i cant get it to turn over. Went to store, truck started fine, came out and click. Thought it might be the battery even though its also brand new but no, had the starter checked, it is also good. Put test light on all electrical having to do with starter and found all hot wires and good grounds. Finally bypassed the solenoid for starter and still nothing but a click. I also checked NSS to see if that might be it but after putting it in reverse, the reverse lights came on, and even jiggled shifter in park and neutral to see if that might work but still just a click. Not sure where to go from here short of buying all new parts but doesn't make much sense to do that if they all appear to be working properly. Don't have a volt meter to check voltage.
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I got a 1997 f150 4x4 4.6L had to replace fuel rail after a couple holes were rubbed in it and caused a fire, but now after two weeks of it sitting at the dealer, I wasn't gonna pay for a fuel rail to be put on so i had it towed home and I did it, however now when I go to start it, it just clicks. So I have the battery tested and its bad so it was still warrantied so it now has a new battery and i also replaced the starter solenoid while i was at it. But still just a click when i try to start it. I had the starter out and bench tested it and it went but went slow and looked very old and tired, I am thinking i need a starter now because its a click from the starter, like its trying to go but isn't strong enough.
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My friends cavalier stopped running about a week ago. It is a 98 with the 2.2 liter. When she turns the key you can hear the starter kick out but it wouldn't turn the engine. I figured it was the starter solenoid, but just to play it safe I took the starter off and had it tested. the starter passed. I put it back on but I left the flywheel cover off, I had her turn the key and you can see the flywheel turn a little bit, so I am pretty sure the starter is fine. I am not sure where to go from here, everything seems to be working fine but the engine just wont crank. I can turn the engine by hand so it doesn't seem like its stuck.
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2002 Excursion 4x4 7.3. I've read about this on here before but I've forgotten what the problem is. When the wheels are turned and the vehicle is going forward at some speed, there is a knocking sound, like a ba-doomp ba-doomp ba-doomp. Does it in both directions, sounds like its in the front hub area. I don't have the time to fix it myself, how much should I expect to pay a dealer and/or independent shop to do it?
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I have an 04 f150 and just changed the alternator yesterday, and 4 hours later it wouldn't start starter clicks but no crank.
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I'm having some strange electrical issues b where to start fixing the problems. Here is whats happening:
- Put the key into the ignition and turn to the "on" position, full power to everything no issues at this point
- Turn the key to the start position, get 1 click out of the starter and then lose all power to everything
- Turn the key off and back to "on" position, sometimes I get power at this point and sometimes the power stays dead for a while
- Check the battery, which is good (12.3 volts)
- At one point someone noticed some sparks coming from a connector near the back of the firewall on the passenger side (sits on top of a metal cover with a large positive terminal right behind it). I've disconnected this terminal, cleaned it and put on some dielectric grease all of which hasn't done anything.
- Basically I mess around with few things, check some connectors, let it sit for a few minutes and then it will start.
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My mom has a 2001 f150 with a 5.0. Had never had any problems with it till this week. She says it wont click or anything. When she tries to start it, the power door locks go to locking & unlocking. She said the battery is good. I figured probably the starter. She lives about 2 1/2 hours from me. I figured I would go down there and take the starter off and have it checked or rebuilt. Anybody ever had their power locks to go to moving when you try to start the truck. Also, when she turns the key on, her dash lights come on just like normal. Just won't turn over or click or anything.
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I just bought an 03 f250 5.4l . I'm just using it to plow my driveway this winter. The starter just clicks , after multiple attempts it will start. The previous owner said it's been like that for a long time but always starts.
I'd like to fix this now while it's warm out , before I buy a starter I'm wondering if I should look into other causes and how to trouble shoot the issue.
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I have an 02 F250 6.8 with 51,000 miles on it. I recently replaced the battery about a week ago, and only actually drove it yesterday for the first time since replacing the battery. I drove it about 25 miles, parked, and when I went to restart, it wouldn't. The starter doesn't crank, so I mean its not a cranking issue as in cranking, and not starting. It only clicks at the relay when turning the key. It acts like when you try to use a wrong chip coded key.
All of the dash lights came on, and I can hear the relay clicking, but that's it. I swapped the relays around, and no luck. If I let it sit a while, about an hour, it will fire right up. The battery cables are tight and free of corrosion. I am curious, since I just put in a new battery, could this be the culprit? Why will it start fine cold, but not hot? I have NEVER had an issue with this truck until now.
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Removed battery cables and held together to clear ECU ... Re-attached and no crank not even a click ...
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I have just finished changing head gasket. I started up the engine works fine. But I hear a little clik sound form the converter. I put it in gear, but it can't move either forward or backward. It ran 2-3 liters of oil out of the converter when I took the engine out. I have filled new oil in the gearbox but not in the converter, dosnt it came form the gearbox into the converter?Is there air in the converter or what's wrong?
it is a F150 4x4 4.6 1997 automatic.
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