Ford Excursion :: 2001 - No Start / Loud Click But Starter Doesn't Turn Over
Dec 20, 2016
2001 6.8 Ex wouldn't start again today Get a loud click but starter doesn't turn over. Yesterday jumped it, took it to Advance where they checked battery and alternator; both checked out great. To start it this morning I ran my negative jumper from battery to engine block and it fired up It's about 12 degrees out and was same yesterday. Thinking dirty/bad ground somewhere ? Do I just start following the negative cable everywhere it goes or am I missing something here No garage and it is chilly.
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I have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
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I bought a used 2008 Toyota Camry per-certified from a local Toyota dealer about 2 years ago. About a year and a half ago I got in the car to go to work one morning and it would not start. You turn the key and all the lights come on but nothing else happened. Took the battery to Auto Zone and they said the battery was OK so I had it towed to the dealership. Dealer called when he got it and said it cranked right up for them and it has not been an issue since.
Two days ago I get in the car to leave work and the same thing happens. You might hear the starter click when you turn the key but nothing else happened. The car was getting power from the battery but that was about it. I tried to jump the car off but still the same thing. I had the car towed to a local Goodyear shop and after looking at it the said it was a problem with the alternator, that needed to be replaced, which also killed a cell in the battery that needed to be replaced also. They said since they are replacing the alternator they might as well replace the belt also.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with the 6.0 diesel 189k kilometers. Had an egregious delete done about 3 weeks ago. A couple of nights ago the temperature was about 10 degrees f and Whalen I started her it sounded like electrical arcing or grinding. She started and off I went. The next morning it was 0 f went to start and made the same noise and then just stopped cranking. Now when I turn to start I get nothing except the relay click under dash. I tried jumping the solenoid and got nothing. Someone told me that my ground connection might be off the starter. Problem is I can't seem to get at the starter.
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I drive an Infiniti i30. When I bought it, the guy who sold it to me told me that the car runs great but that I would have to turn the key kind of hard to get the car started. Over time, this problem has progressively gotten worse. There have been times where I'd be stuck in a parking lot for over an hour trying to get the car to start. When I turn the key, I can hear the starter clicking, and all of the dash lots and radio will come on but the car doesn't sound like its cranking or even trying to start. The weirdest thing is that the first time I drive my car in the morning it starts up just fine. It's once I turn the car off after driving somewhere and try to start it again that I have problems. I'll have to turn the key 100 times or more sometimes to get it to start if its not the first time of the day. What this could be?
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Ok, I have a strange no start issue right now. My excursion won't start. I have power to everything and both batteries are at 12 volts or a bit more but the starter won't engage. If you turn the key to start all that happens is relays click under the dash and the airbag light flashes. It almost seems like the transmission is in gear. It did this twice about a month ago and has been fine ever since until today.
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Drove about 10 mins and parked. Came back 5 mins later and wouldn't start. Starter click can be heard when trying to crank but doesn't turn engine. Checked fuse (#113) and starter relay - both are good. AAA came out and tried to jump but no success. Flat bed towed back to my house last night.
This morning, woke up bright and early to pick up brand new Napa Premium starter. Replaced it thinking that was it. No dice- same thing, 1-click, no turning of engine.
Batteries & terminals both good & clean. Hooked up 2 additional fully charged deep cell marine batteries via jumper cables and no difference. Voltage @ starter terminal = 12.4V.
When cranking, voltage drops all the way down to 1-2V if holding the key in the crank position (1 click and then nothing). Returns back up to ~12V when released.
Jumped pos terminal to starter solenoid, got clicking but doesn't turn engine.Is my tranny or engine frozen...?!
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Have a 97 Ford explorer. Over 270,000 miles on it. Recently had Crank sensor, Crank case vent tube, plugs wires replaced along with intake manifold gaskets. Also had fuel injectors cleaned out. Now i cant get it to turn over. Went to store, truck started fine, came out and click. Thought it might be the battery even though its also brand new but no, had the starter checked, it is also good. Put test light on all electrical having to do with starter and found all hot wires and good grounds. Finally bypassed the solenoid for starter and still nothing but a click. I also checked NSS to see if that might be it but after putting it in reverse, the reverse lights came on, and even jiggled shifter in park and neutral to see if that might work but still just a click. Not sure where to go from here short of buying all new parts but doesn't make much sense to do that if they all appear to be working properly. Don't have a volt meter to check voltage.
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Ok so I was looking at my blend door actuator motor to see if it was working. Just took off the bottom vent cover, turned key on and moved the air mixture to see if the motor worked. (it didn't) Then I went to start the truck and all I get is the solenoid on the firewall click each time I turn the key. I put a meter on the opposite side of solenoid and I see 12v across the solenoid. I can't image i did anything while playing around by the blend door actuator motor. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that the next logical step is starter and starter solenoid. Is there anything else I could be missing? is there anything else in that circuit between the solenoid on the firewall and the starter? I also cleaned the battery terminals and the terminals down on the starter solenoid. I also tapped the starter a bunch and put a charger on battery and tried jumping the truck too. Everything else works.
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I'm having some strange electrical issues b where to start fixing the problems. Here is whats happening:
- Put the key into the ignition and turn to the "on" position, full power to everything no issues at this point
- Turn the key to the start position, get 1 click out of the starter and then lose all power to everything
- Turn the key off and back to "on" position, sometimes I get power at this point and sometimes the power stays dead for a while
- Check the battery, which is good (12.3 volts)
- At one point someone noticed some sparks coming from a connector near the back of the firewall on the passenger side (sits on top of a metal cover with a large positive terminal right behind it). I've disconnected this terminal, cleaned it and put on some dielectric grease all of which hasn't done anything.
- Basically I mess around with few things, check some connectors, let it sit for a few minutes and then it will start.
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I have a 01 Ford excursion 7.3 auto and it will not start unless you jump the starter relay, I have replaced the starter, starter relay and swapped out batteries from my 2000 F250 auto, not sure what to do and this is my daily driver. Not sure if this matters but just had the transmission rebuilt. I have tried searching other threads but still not finding what I need. Once it starts it runs and drives. When you turn the key you hear a click like a relay is engaging and all of the lights and gauges work it just won't start with the key.
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I have an 02 F250 6.8 with 51,000 miles on it. I recently replaced the battery about a week ago, and only actually drove it yesterday for the first time since replacing the battery. I drove it about 25 miles, parked, and when I went to restart, it wouldn't. The starter doesn't crank, so I mean its not a cranking issue as in cranking, and not starting. It only clicks at the relay when turning the key. It acts like when you try to use a wrong chip coded key.
All of the dash lights came on, and I can hear the relay clicking, but that's it. I swapped the relays around, and no luck. If I let it sit a while, about an hour, it will fire right up. The battery cables are tight and free of corrosion. I am curious, since I just put in a new battery, could this be the culprit? Why will it start fine cold, but not hot? I have NEVER had an issue with this truck until now.
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I got a 1997 f150 4x4 4.6L had to replace fuel rail after a couple holes were rubbed in it and caused a fire, but now after two weeks of it sitting at the dealer, I wasn't gonna pay for a fuel rail to be put on so i had it towed home and I did it, however now when I go to start it, it just clicks. So I have the battery tested and its bad so it was still warrantied so it now has a new battery and i also replaced the starter solenoid while i was at it. But still just a click when i try to start it. I had the starter out and bench tested it and it went but went slow and looked very old and tired, I am thinking i need a starter now because its a click from the starter, like its trying to go but isn't strong enough.
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I have an 01 Excursion. I tried to start it this morning and the radio and lights came on, but all it would do is make a really loud clicking noise. If the battery was dead would the lights come on? My friend who picked me up to take me to work also told me my battery connections needed cleaned...
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I have an 04 f150 and just changed the alternator yesterday, and 4 hours later it wouldn't start starter clicks but no crank.
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I have a 2010 Accent with 106 000 km on it (Canada). A couple months ago (just as warranty expired) the car would not start. Nothing. Engine would not even turn over. Just a click of the starter solenoid. battery had a load test and is fine. Removed negative battery cable and cleaned the cable where it bolts to the body under the battery tray. Battery terminals were both cleaned at the same time.
Things worked fine for a couple weeks and the problem is back but worse. Everything in the car works fine when it won't start. If I continually turn the key to the start position it will eventually start to turn over and start fine. Sometimes it takes 20-30 turns of the key till it turns over and starts. When it does turn over and start, the engine turns over fine at the normal speed. Not slow like a weak battery.
Dealer is useless. Had a coil go a couple months back just before the warranty expired and they told us that the reason the coil went was that the car had been rust proofed by someone other than Hyundai.
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My mom has a 2001 f150 with a 5.0. Had never had any problems with it till this week. She says it wont click or anything. When she tries to start it, the power door locks go to locking & unlocking. She said the battery is good. I figured probably the starter. She lives about 2 1/2 hours from me. I figured I would go down there and take the starter off and have it checked or rebuilt. Anybody ever had their power locks to go to moving when you try to start the truck. Also, when she turns the key on, her dash lights come on just like normal. Just won't turn over or click or anything.
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I just bought an 03 f250 5.4l . I'm just using it to plow my driveway this winter. The starter just clicks , after multiple attempts it will start. The previous owner said it's been like that for a long time but always starts.
I'd like to fix this now while it's warm out , before I buy a starter I'm wondering if I should look into other causes and how to trouble shoot the issue.
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I have a 1999 F150 Lariat 5.4 that's been sitting for a few weeks waiting for a new MAF. Finally got a MAF from a junkyard (out of an 01 Expedition) and installed it.
Turned the key, cranks once, then I hear a loud click and then just continuous clicking. I did some research and people are saying this is just the starter solenoid and that the battery may be dead. I charged the battery a couple hours and waited until it showed 11.some volts, tried to start it again, didn't even turn over, just clicking. I also noticed the theft light blinking rapidly, but if it were the PATS acting up, wouldn't the motor at least turnover?
So I went back to charging the battery. Went out a couple hours later (at night), and when I opened the door, none of the lights came on. Then I hear a click, the lights come on, followed by another click, and the lights went off. This happens each time I open and close the door. So did I potentially pop a fuse? Or is my battery just fried? Would replacing the MAF with the newer one out of the expedition cause any weird issue? I doubt it, but anything is possible at this point I guess.
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So when I try to start the F there is a single click heard. Battery is tested good and is only 6 months old.
Been trying to locate the starter. From what I believe is it in the V install Valley? Meaning the entire cover needs to come off?
How to find / get to the starter. I will continue to see if the connection of cables are good.
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About 2 weeks ago, my jetta decided it didn't want to start. Was getting symptoms of a bad ignition switch prior to this. Could get it to start one by jiggling the key. Replaced the ignition switch and now could hear the starter relay click but still no start. Yesterday, installed a reman starter and got it to start once. Could here the solenoid click when trying to start. Was reading on here or somewhere that it my be my power control relay, so took the top off to look at it and it was fine. Battery was down about 100 amps so it was replaced and still no start. Going to go see if my vag com will talk to to the ecu. Thinking about pulling the starter out and having it tested.
MK2 are so much easier.
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