Accent LC (2000-05) :: Repeated Click Or Grinding Sound When Turning
Oct 8, 2013
This started a few months ago. At first it only happened when making a hard right turn, its a repeated click or grinding noise. Over time it has gotten worse, and now happens when turning either direction, and its worse the faster the car is going. Turing into the parking space at our apartment is fine... turning from one street to another going to work is not. Various things I looked up suggested the cv joint, but when I went to parts stores websites to look up prices all it gave me was cv boot kits in the results. Is this whats actually wrong, and is it something easily fixed for a DIY person?
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When I'm turning left or right I'm hearing a click-clack from the front, what this may be?
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Windstar 2000, 260K, ABS not functioning, previously ABS light on all the time now of even with Key on Engine Stopped. While a long drive after 1600 KM failed to apply the Cruis. Horn not blowing. Retried cruise engaged but resume, horn, deceleration did not not function. Stopped, disconnected battery for half hour cruise and horn started functioning. Again after 400 KM stopped functioning. Now it is intermittent. Tail lights normally working. Cruise deactivating switch (switch unser the master brake cylinder) was changed by ford 5 years back, it is dry no signs of brake oil on it. Fuse no 10 is OK. Rapid repeated turning steering wheel has no effect. CEL On since 4 years code is for bank 2 CTM.
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I've got an '03 Accent 1.6 in the family. December 2011 I replaced the crank position sensor and it cured the no start problem. Got it from A/Zone. It lasted 2 years and 8 months. Then, the same thing happened again in August 2014 only this time the car stopped running while on the road and I had it towed to a local garage. They installed a "Standard" & was back on the road again when it stopped running again a week ago. Had it towed to my house this time and read the code. P0336 CPS again! That sensor lasted only 4 months. The garage came & replaced the sensor & it's back on the road...for now. Do these cars only play nice with Hyundai CPS's or should I be looking for an underlying issue?
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I bought my 2001 f250 5.4 a few weeks ago. It had a blown plug but other than that everything worked fine no codes. I fixed the plug yesterday finally had time, tried to crank it and battery was dead. So I charged the battery up and tried to crank and engine wouldn't turn over just a click like battery was dead even tried battery off my explorer same thing. I tried arcing the solenoid on started it arced but engine didn't turn over. Tried cranking again and started having crazy electrical problem. The #1 relay for the interior lights was making a repeated click click click and int lights would flash in sync with the clicks.
I then realized my headlights,blinkers,stereo wouldn't work but when I would cut headlights or hazard lights on the blinking int interior light would stop until I turned headlights off. I have an obd link sx with enhanced ford diagnostics software so I plugged it in, and I had 12 B codes all of them was relays that "supposedly" went bad at exact same time and there was two C codes that were raps related. My initial thinking is the gem but if it was bad why would it throw 12 bcm codes and two chassis codes. Could it be the raps and if so I wonder why it would throw 12 faulty relay codes. I guess my question is where would I start gem,bcm,raps or is it something totally different then that.
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Drove about 10 mins and parked. Came back 5 mins later and wouldn't start. Starter click can be heard when trying to crank but doesn't turn engine. Checked fuse (#113) and starter relay - both are good. AAA came out and tried to jump but no success. Flat bed towed back to my house last night.
This morning, woke up bright and early to pick up brand new Napa Premium starter. Replaced it thinking that was it. No dice- same thing, 1-click, no turning of engine.
Batteries & terminals both good & clean. Hooked up 2 additional fully charged deep cell marine batteries via jumper cables and no difference. Voltage @ starter terminal = 12.4V.
When cranking, voltage drops all the way down to 1-2V if holding the key in the crank position (1 click and then nothing). Returns back up to ~12V when released.
Jumped pos terminal to starter solenoid, got clicking but doesn't turn engine.Is my tranny or engine frozen...?!
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So the lights work fine don't dim when trying to start the car. when you turn the ignition there is one thump but no clicks or revs like belts are moving. The battery is fairly new less than a year and as mentioned all electric things seem to be fine. I was also told by the tow guy that it was the starter but just want to be sure.
Advanced auto states they will test it but I need to get it out of the car. Only problem is I cant find it. I've looked at the manual online and seen numerous diagrams but I don't know the physical location of it do I need to get under the car to remove it? Do i need to remove anything to get to it? I haven't seen any live pictures showing where it is and I've googled it for a while now.
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I just bought a 2004 hyundai accent 1.6L standard transmission on the 13th of June, ran great drove it everyday, was driving fine when I came home monday night, went to drive it yesterday and get nothing, turn the key no click, no crank, the radio turns off as it always did when you try to start, I checked the fuses, and the battery shows twelve volts on the meter, what could cause this to abruptly happen?
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Recently, my Accent has been acting up (twice) while filling the tank. I haven't done any work on it that would cause this recently, but while fueling, the pump will click and stop repeatedly, as if the tank was full. It takes sometimes 20 minutes just to put 8 gallons in it. I've tried two separate pumps. Next fill-up, I'll try a different gas station because I've heard that can sometimes be a problem. They said their pumps weren't empty so that's not the case.
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My fiance was driving my 2001 Accent, 1.6 manual trans, when it suddenly died. Now when I try to start it, I only get a single click. I also tried popping the clutch and nothing.
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When turning right, either sharply or just during a long gradual turn in the road, I hear a grinding or running sound consistent with RPM coming from the rear - I think the right rear. It driving flat, no sound. If turning left, no sound. To me, it seems if the right rear is unloaded a bit weight wise, the sound occurs.
I'm thinking wheel bearing. Hoping not differential, but it really does seem to come from right rear not center of rear. Only if turning right and moving weight to left side.
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Repeat Front Hub Failures -- 2WD Try this situation -- Purchased 2006 F-150 XL with 57,000 miles. Truck built on 05/24/2006.
Sept 2011 68,621 miles -- Left front hub failure -- Wheel bearing grinding -- Done by Bell Ford in Phoenix.
2013 -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding -- done by independent shop.
Sept 2014 -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding -- done by independent shop.
Sept 2016 -- Upper & lower control arms, struts, strut mounts, springs replaced -- Quality part used -- Complete front end alignment -- Brake job front and rear.
Nov 2016 -- New performance exhaust system due to exhaust leaks.
Dec 2016 -- Failed automatic transmission -- Remanufactured FORD transmission installed w/ 36 mo warranty. Sanderson Ford gets an A+
March 16, 2017 151,000 miles -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding! Verified by jacking up truck and spinning left front wheel -- GRIND! This is coming from down in the hub. This is a 2 wheel drive truck. Yes, you counted correctly, this will be the 4th replacement on the Left side!
NO Towing! NO Overloading! Wheels are 2006 XLT style Aluminum rims with P235/70R17 Michelin XLT M/S (Defender LTX) tires all around.
It only hauls maybe 200 to 300 pounds of electronic equipment at the max, once in a while. This is driving me crazy! I always use FORD PARTS for the HUB ASSEMBLIES. Really loosing faith, the front right hub is OEM original - NEVER CHANGED!
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I recently accidentally drove my Camry into curb in a parking lot. It was only a light, but since then I've noticed a grinding sound ONLY when turning right. Everything else seems fine. I looked under the car and saw the black plastic casing under the car is cracked and it looks like it might be grinding against the left tire, which could cause that noise. I've also heard it could be a bearing, but would that suddenly happen immediately after an encounter with a curb?
I do plan on taking it to the shop, but I have to wait at least a week until I get paid. I'm guessing that should be okay.
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I've been getting a grinding sound when turning my car. The sound is especially noticeable when pulling in or out of a parking spot and when turning at low speeds. The sound I hear is reminiscent of an old bed spring compressing or an ironing board closing (maybe a bit deeper of a sound than that though). I took it in for service, and they replaced the strut tops. However, the sound returned the next day, and it seems to be getting worse. All parts in the car are stock.
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Here is the issue with my car. It's a 1995 Honda Accord sedan, automatic transmission, inline 4. For the past 6 years or so, when you take a turn at a certain angle and a certain amount of acceleration and a certain amount of speed, it'll make something like a rhythmic grinding sound until you straighten the wheel and escape the turn. It happens far more often on left turns than right turns.
Adding to the oddity, say you are getting ready to take a left turn. Now if you are at a turn where the angle, acceleration and speed necessary to make the sound -- the sound can be completely avoided if you accelerate straight, let go of the accelerator, then use the momentum to turn, let the wheel straighten out to complete the turn, then begin to accelerate again.
A while ago I took it to a major repair center and they took out all the axles and some how concluded that it was the transmission. I really don't understand how it could be that, as the car shifts fine, and the sound never occurs when going straight. This past week, I took it to another mechanic, and he concluded that it was the axle shaft on the left side, maybe the axle shaft on the right.
So I had the left axle shaft replaced. I drove it home and didn't notice it, thought it worked; the mechanic himself drove the car around for hours after and didn't notice anything. Just to be sure, I take the car into a cul-de-sac that has the perfect turn angle to make the sound. Guess what, it's still there, albeit muted a little bit.
I am wondering if it's worth it to fix the other axle shaft, how it's possible that it could be the transmission, or if it's anything else that's possibly wrong. Again, this sound has been going on for years. I am completely frustrated and want it gone. I am thinking about making a video with the sound...
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Recently (5-6) months my Gen II has been making some weird sound when I turn it on before the ICE starts. Also when I turn it off after the ICE shuts down. I really don't know how to describe the sound so I took some clips of it. Sort of a high pitched grind maybe? Car has 45xxx, just had the Hybrid water pumped replaced.
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In the past few days, our car (2006 Prius) has begun making some louder-than-normal noises while driving. I've determined that the noise appears when you turn the wheel at all to the right (note: not just making a right turn...any degree to the right past straight is enough). It seems to be constant when the car is running, but really only becomes perceptible around 30 mph. The sound is sort of like a buzzing. Maybe a grinding, but not quite. It sounds like it might be similar to this issue (2006 Engine Noise - buzzing, especially loud on highway | PriusChat), but I can't quite be sure.
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Got the stabilizer bar recall done in February and have been on a couple of long trips since then. No real issues until about a week ago I noticed at low speed, when turning left, and usually if there was a small bump or incline........like turning into my driveway, there would be a popping/grinding sound. It could happen at speed, but never heard anything. I go last night to install some ECS cross drilled and slotted rotors and flush spacer kit and noticed this on the left front....
Well honestly I noticed first that I needed to wash my car, just got back from the beach and it has been raining here, but is this installed correctly. The bar is bent near the top, easier to see in person and I am fairly positive this is not correct. Called the dealership and they are going to check it out Monda. The picture below is of a left front on a MK7 and it appears to be the correct.
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So I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent, 1.5L with an automatic transmission. I'm hearing a grinding noise when I'm driving. It gets faster as the car goes faster, but the engine RPM has no effect only the speed of the car.
I got new tires, changed the CV axle shaft on both sides, and I also changed the front struts as I was told that one of the struts was bad the last time I took the car for an alignment. None of that has had any effect on the grinding noise.
Then I jacked the car up on both sides and let the wheels spin, and the grinding noise is present that way as well. Then I jacked up just one side at a time. When the driver's side wheel is spinning, the noise is audible, but not when just the passenger side is spinning.
I then disconnected the brake caliper from the driver's side and held it up with a tie wrap to keep it out of the way. The noise is still audible when the wheel is spinning, so it's not the pads or a clip or anything like that.
So now I'm down to a couple of ideas.
1) Wheel bearings
2) Something is hosed in the differential or transmission. I'm guessing that the differential is more likely, as the transmission should effect both sides the same, right?
I'm going to check the wheel bearings now, though to me it seems unlikely to be the problem.
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I get a grinding or whirring sound when I turn my steering wheel left or right. I gets worse if press the accelerator pedal. I believe it has something to do with the power steering but I don't know how to troubleshoot the issue....
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When I move the wheel to the left, I get this metal grinding sound (similar to rust on brake rotors/worn down brake pads). It happens when the foot is off the brake and ONLY when the wheel is turned to the left.
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