Windstar :: 2000 - ABS Not Functioning / Rapid Repeated Turning Steering Wheel Has No Effect
Apr 29, 2015
Windstar 2000, 260K, ABS not functioning, previously ABS light on all the time now of even with Key on Engine Stopped. While a long drive after 1600 KM failed to apply the Cruis. Horn not blowing. Retried cruise engaged but resume, horn, deceleration did not not function. Stopped, disconnected battery for half hour cruise and horn started functioning. Again after 400 KM stopped functioning. Now it is intermittent. Tail lights normally working. Cruise deactivating switch (switch unser the master brake cylinder) was changed by ford 5 years back, it is dry no signs of brake oil on it. Fuse no 10 is OK. Rapid repeated turning steering wheel has no effect. CEL On since 4 years code is for bank 2 CTM.
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This summer, my steering rack failed, and I had it replaced with a remanufacutured steering rack. All went well, until a few weeks ago I started feeling a pulsing effect when turning, usually when turning right. On a few occasions, the shaking has become severe. It is a back-and-forth effect, about three times a second. It is bad enough that it has triggered a power steering error on two occasions. I took it to the garage who installed the rack, asking them to have a look at it, and they found nothing. Because the effect is regular, I am assuming that I am feeling the 12V power assist malfunctioning or reacting to faulty input.
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This started a few months ago. At first it only happened when making a hard right turn, its a repeated click or grinding noise. Over time it has gotten worse, and now happens when turning either direction, and its worse the faster the car is going. Turing into the parking space at our apartment is fine... turning from one street to another going to work is not. Various things I looked up suggested the cv joint, but when I went to parts stores websites to look up prices all it gave me was cv boot kits in the results. Is this whats actually wrong, and is it something easily fixed for a DIY person?
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I am halfway through the badge backup camera install and I just had a thought. Will replacing the badge with the backup camera badge affect my kessy functioning? I did not check to see if there was a kessy and non kessy golf backup camera. I have read at least 10 DIYs on this mod and not one mentioned kessy at all.
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So when I bought my '11 460L I noticed that along the top portion of the steering wheel (the lacquered portion) there is a fair amount of bumpiness. Basically it seems like the clear coat didn't cure correctly. It's not a big deal and ultimately I can live with it. However, since it does seem like a defect in the way the steering wheel was made I brought it up to the service adviser earlier today when I was dropping the car off for service. His immediate response was that the previous owner drove the car with a ring and that what I was feeling were indentations made by the ring.
While I can understand that a scratch or a chip may result from a ring riding on or banging against the wood, I find it very difficult to believe that it would actually cause waviness in the actual finish. This, of course, is beside the point that what I felt were more of protrusions rather than indentations.
So my question to you is for those who drive your cars with rings and such, have you seen those rings have any effect on the lacquered portions of your steering wheel. I didn't push the issue any further aside from the adviser who is the assistant manager saying that he will run it by the primary service manager. But I am not sure I want to let this one slide unless it really is an issue caused by the driver.
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2008 R32 with 17k ... What might be causing this sound which is just a faint clicking clicking sound that happens intermittently when driving.
I have an appointment at VW dealer tomorrow but they do not want to take ownership as I have replaced the head unit and have steering wheel controls for my Alpine IVA 505.
It is not electronic as the controls are solid state and the can bus adapter is behind the head unit. It seems mechanical but what could it be? I definitely notice that at a stop when rocking the brake that create the start of the clicking sound .
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I have question about power steering pressure switch in golf 4 1.8t
Idle go high to 2000 rpm .. when i plug-off the Power Steering Pressure Switch its go fine .. i want know is this " Power Steering Pressure Switch " effect stability in high ?
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While driving, a rapid clicking sound randomly comes from under and to the left of the steering wheel and the van concurrently has stuttered power. It still drives but is rapidly getting worse with frequency and we are on a road trip on the Oregon Coast with young kids and limited local mechanics. It seems like something as simple as a loose connection but before digging in to check electrical connections .....
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My windstar blew fuse #16. replaced soon. blew again, replaced again. now theft light blinks rapidly and won't even crank over. left switch on long enough to get a code reading from the light, it comes up to # 15.
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Just yesterday, my 2001.5 Passat GLX had trouble starting. I got a lot of rapid clicking and after a few tries, it finally turned over. Then I drove it around a bit and it started fine after a quick lunch. A few hours later, it hesitated again, so i thought maybe I didn't charge it up enough, so I took a trip down to my local Kragen and thought I'd get the battery tested just in case.
They did a test of the battery with some handheld device and said it came back fine. The guy did say that if I could take the battery out and bring it back, they could test it in a different machine, though, but otherwise the battery was charging fine and was holding the charge fine.
This morning I started up the car to see if it would start. Started fine. Then I did it again and it started fine again. OK, must have just drained somehow and now it's got some juice again. Fast forward to this afternoon and my wife was going to the grocery store and she says "The car is dead!". Yup, dead. Just rapid clicking again, but not turning over.
After checking out some threads in here it looks like it could be the battery. And it is about 5 years old according to the date sticker on it (Duralast, btw). So to test it as best I could, I charged it up with a battery charger, then took a reading with my multimeter. With the car off, I could literally see the voltage dropping in the readings. It started around 13v, but got progressively lower and lower as if it was a timer counting down seconds. I then disconnected the Terminals and took more readings. This time the voltage maintained it's reading and was static.
ok, so now maybe something is draining the battery (and fast!). One thing I noticed when I re-connected the Terminals is a sort of whining sound coming from the area of the coolant reservoir. When I put my ear closer, I could hear liquid moving around there. Is that normal that it would be on when the car if off? Could that be my culprit?
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Having a problem with the steering wheel squeaking while you turn the wheel? It sounds like its rubbing against something. Any TSB on it...
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A few days ago my car started making a groaning noise when I turn the steering wheel. Sounds like it's coming from the middle of the car. Makes the noise whether the car is moving or not.
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I'm new to the site and I've got a 2012 F-150 SuperCrew EcoBoost that has had the front wheel hubs replaced twice. Both hubs two winters ago and one hub last winter. I'm taking it in again tomorrow because the wheels are growling again when turning slightly at low speeds and sometimes without turning. I'm running in 2H, so the hubs should not be engaged. Previous years it was when running in 4H or 4A.
When I took it in, the service manager said it was common this time of year because of the temperature. Always seems to be cold, but not frigid, days here in SD. I asked why I should tolerate having hubs replaced every year, but he can't answer that.
I'm at 36,450 miles/29 months. I'm not beating on it or running in 4wd on dry pavement. Just normal highway miles. I should know more tomorrow after it comes out of the shop.
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Getting a slight clicking sound/feel when turning the steering wheel when either stopped or moving very slowly. It's most noticeable when turning in and out of a parking space. Don't think it's subframe but may the strut bearing caps.
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Just on my way home during the last few turns down the underground parking, I found the steering wheel column making some squeak noise. Is there anything I should check before bringing it back to the dealership?
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I know this can bring many speculations. I've recently install new 034 strut mounts and new bearings. Stiffer mounts and the new bearings took care of the "compression" noise going over bumps. The bearings were shot.
Just returned from a trip, driving the R now I've notice a slight creaking noise while making left or right full turns at slow speed. I haven't noticed it at high speed yet or maybe its because our cars are pretty loud with an aftermarket exhaust but i don't suspect there's noise going straight.
I tried to see if there's anything out of the ordinary. I noticed that the driver side spring moves slight while the steering wheel is turned either left or right. I suspect that this slight movement is causing the spring to rub on a rubber component of the wheel bearing thus causing the noise.
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I have a 2008 Accent with 136,000 km on it. A few days ago I parked with the wheels slightly turned and the steering wheel totally locked, the key couldn't turn and the wheel couldn't be unlocked by pushing it either way. I called CAA and the driver had no luck but he tapped the key lightly with a wrench while it was in the ignition and it started. I took it to the mechanic yesterday and they had the same problems and called a locksmith who specializes in automotive locks.
They told me to take it to the dealership because they thought it was something further inside. Something was bugging me and I realized what it was. When the car was parked and the key wasn't in the ignition, as soon as I opened the driver side door the chimes went off. I closed the door, tried to lock it from outside with the remote but it wouldn't lock and the alarm wouldn't engage. I called my mechanic to tell him this and we all agreed that it seemed the car thought the key was in the ignition even though it wasn't.
I went to the dealership and left it and they called and said it was the ignition cylinder that needed replacing. Does this sound right?
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I am getting a click from the steering when rocking the wheel left or right. It is coming from the assembly the intermediate shaft is connected to. I see there is a large bearing on the end where the shaft comes out. I am not sure what this assembly is called. I have had it at the dealer and they said they re-torqued everything but they could not duplicate it.
I do not fall in the range for the recall and I have no problem with the car pulling left so I do not think it has anything to do with the intermediate shaft. It is clearly from the assembly the intermediate shaft is connected to on the steering wheel end of the intermediate shaft. 2011 limited
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My Phaeton has pretty audible whine when turning the steering wheel. Closer to lock- the louder the noise. Can I check the fluid myself or is this going to become a trip to the dealer?
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I bought an 09 Accent and love the car, good mileage and actually quiet. I have developed a noise when I turn my steering wheel. It is not there when the car is cold, but after a few moments, when I turn a corner, I hear sort of rubber on rubber sound as I turn the steering wheel.
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When turning the steering wheel slowly while from a stop or slow speed there is a grinding sound coming from the front end. It isn't very loud but you can also feel it in the steering wheel.
Is there a common thing/problem with these? I know there isn't a pump. There isn't any kind of a vibration or wobble at highway speed.
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