Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 Excursion - Knocking Sound When Turning
Oct 22, 2014
2002 Excursion 4x4 7.3. I've read about this on here before but I've forgotten what the problem is. When the wheels are turned and the vehicle is going forward at some speed, there is a knocking sound, like a ba-doomp ba-doomp ba-doomp. Does it in both directions, sounds like its in the front hub area. I don't have the time to fix it myself, how much should I expect to pay a dealer and/or independent shop to do it?
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I have had this truck for several years. I have only had a few issues. I've heard of engine noise issues but I have never had any until now. My 5.4 is making a knocking sound that just started. It goes away if I tap the accelerator. It has over 200,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 3000-4000 miles. No additives and always conventional 5-20. Is this a serious issue? I've seen people talk about using thicker oil but I'm very hesitant.
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My 2002 F250 is knocking loose the front end assembly--the gasket is worn out. So I was shopping around and was considering a beefed-up front end assembly.
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Alright, I have a 2002 f350 7.3 4x4 ext cab xlt with 300k miles. Bought in may 2016 with 260k miles and towards November started running rough and felt like a loss of power. Had a no start but a new gray cps fixed that issue. Running fine. About a week later started it up and it had a rough idle, felt like not all cylinders/injectors were working. Was "knocking" and a loss of power. I was in the army at the time and stationed in Georgia, took it to a local diesel shop in Georgia and they confirmed my icp sensor was bad and injector #1 , #5 #7 were bad. Work was busy and money was scarce so I left it as it is and was saving up to buy the new parts. Then one day approx a week after the visit to the shop, I started the truck up and it ran fine. No misfire no knock no rough idle, drove fine for about a month.
In December, I was on vacation in florida to see my parents, drove the truck down, ran fine. While on vacation one day in a Walmart parking lot the truck didn't start up. Couldn't fix any issues then so towed the truck to my parents house. Did more troubleshoot, replaced fuel filter, cps, ipr valve, icp sensor, glow plugs, glow plug relay, ebpv pedestal was replaced with a ebpv delete pedestal. All parts bought oem and/or from riffraff diesel. Still would not start up. So then I bought a refurbished IDM from eBay, oem and then the truck finally started up one day but running rough again like it used to, then it wouldn't start again. So then, I replaced the PCM with a reflashed/refurbished one off eBay and boom truck started up, still running rough but now it starts up every time.
Now, took all eight injectors out and replaced all the o rings. Cleaned them up and put them back in, truck still running rough. Injectors didn't appear damaged nor the wiring harness so now I bought three reman injectors from riffraff. And replaced those three bad injectors. One of them is not spitting oil out the oil spout on the injector.
My dad has worked on freightliner semi trucks for years and is fairly knowledgeable when it comes to diesels. However he did something very amateurish the other day. So two injectors were installed while we were still waiting on the third in the mail. He wanted to see how the engine reacts when that one bad injector was not in play, but instead of unplugging the injector under the valve cover, he cut the wire outside the valve cover to the injector. He stated it's not a big deal and he can solder the wires back together. But once he cut the wire, the truck sounded a lot stronger, still rough idle but definitely stronger. Before, you would be pedal to the floor and the truck barely moves forward but now the truck will lunge forward. A big difference in power.
Now today, third injector came, swapped them out and fired up truck. We didn't solder the wire yet just quick connect, same you would use to connect wires for a car stereo. The new injector was not spitting oil out the oil spout. Even at high rev and truck warmed up. Truck still runs better with that one injector unplugged.
Tomorrow we will troubleshoot if somehow there's wires that grounding out or burnt out somewhere but as of right now everything seems to be in order, the uvch are tight, and no signs of anything burnt.
Triple checked everything, still getting fuel pressure, still getting oil pressure what gives? I also replaced the MAP sensor. Fuel pump is fine, fuel gets to fuel bowl. The next thing I'm thinking is maybe the hpop but we have oil pressure so idk..
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I have a 2002 ford f250 superduty and when I have my headlight switch set to auto to come on when it gets dark they will for awhile and then my headlights will turn off for no reason.
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Just bought a 2002 F-250. Truck came with 18" Rims with 275/70/18 tires. The turning radius is awful, almost unsafe. The stock rim and tire size should be 16" rims with approximately 265/75/16 tires. Would the larger rims have that big of an effect on turning radius? I have owned two 2006 F-250's, and they turned nothing like this truck. I have not really gotten into the front end to see if the stops have been adjusted and/or if the tires are hitting.
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Just became the proud owner of a used 2011 F-250 Supercab, 6.2L. Overall the truck is great but it does have a-few things that need fixing, the most annoying of which is a knocking sound from the rear passenger side cab corner. Sounds like the exhaust vibrating and smacking up against the floorboard but that's not it. Everything seems tight, even the front suspension.
The only thing I can see that may be the cause is the rear passenger cab mount seems worn. I can rotate the bottom rubber portion without too much effort and when I feel for the top rubber portion all I feel is the metal cup on the top, like the rubber has collapsed and the metal cup is sitting directly on the frame mount.
So... how many cab mounts there are for the Supercab? I think there are two on each side and two in the front. All of the information & videos I've seen describe the locations for the crew cab. Also, is it possible to replace the cab mounts and not have to mess with the ones in the front? I hear those are the real buggers.
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So as of 2 weeks ago there is a popping sound coming from somewhere behind the cab when I'm turning in reverse. Its intermittent and only happens once or twice when I'm pulling out of a parking spot. It doesn't happen every time. Probably about 4 times a week but it only happens when its cold and been sitting. It doesn't happen when I'm driving in 2wd or 4wd. I was wondering what it could be and if its gonna be something I can afford to hold off on for awhile.
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I have a 2002 F250 diesel, the key will turn to acc. but not on. It feels like it is hitting something in the column. I tried moving the shifting lever back and forth with my foot on the break, as I turned the key but it would not turn. I am thinking the tumblers are OK because it goes into acc. It feels like their is some lever that is not releasing the shift lever, because if I turn the key hard the shift lever jumps. What is wrong, or how the interface between the lock tumbler and the shift lever works?
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I have a '16 F250 4wd with the 6.7 and approx 3k miles. There has been a strange sound coming from the front end when turning left from a stoplight. It sounds like something slides or shifts and it only happens once in a while. The noise isn't loud but you can feel it.
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Today was the first time I have locked my wheel hubs in and used 4 wheel drive. However when I did all this i noticed that when I turn there is a growling sound but only when turning. It does not make the sound when unlocked and in 2 wheel drive.
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I have a 2001 Ford F-250 with the gas v-10. Yesterday it started just fine as always. Today I get into it and it starts to turn over just fine then starts to make a grinding sound and the truck won't start. I have had a fuel issue in the mornings with once it started you had to barely press the gass to keep it running. But never makes a funny sound and always runs fine. This only last for a couple of min and then it runs fine for the rest of the day. The grinding is not the starter. I took it off and had it checked and it was fine.
The truck had been using oil. When I checked the oil level it was low but it was still on the stick. "I know a motor needs oil to run smooth but it's my dads truck and well let's just say he is not the best on maintenance". Also I smelled the oil and it does have a gas smell to it. So it definitely does have some gas in the oil. I tried to light the dipstick with a lighter and it wouldn't light. So not sure how much gas is in it but that's what I did.
So the question is, would something just in mid crank go bad and then not let the motor crank. Truck made no weird noises before this so I find it hard to believe the barrings just went out in mid crank and now it is shot.
Also I just checked compression on front cylinders.
Driver side read 75lbs
passenger side read 100lbs
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Just noticed a ticking sound coming from my engine... just turned 160,000. Hoping nothing serious...
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What will make a loud blower sound cycle on and off constantly when towing if i turn the ac off it stops....
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I have a 2002 F350 with the triton 5.4. For the last week it has been running like crap. I just did my plugs about a month ago. I don't know if it's a miss fire or bad fuel or I don't know what it could be. It's a popping sound coming from my exhaust and when it happens I lose power. It happens off and on. One second it will run fine and normal and the next runs bad. What it could be. Today I just changed my fuel filter and added STP octane boost and fuel injector cleaner. Haven't seen a difference yet.
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Is there truely no cure for exhaust flutter on a 2002 f250 V10, bedsides putting on headers??? I have the the sound at shift points around 1800-2200 rpms. Sounds great before and after these points....
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I have a 6.8l V10 that ..... seems.... to be knocking. I am used to hearing v8 knocks but not so sure about a v10. The knock seems to double tap sometimes. Could this be a bad valve or lifter instead? Video is linked.
Also oil pressure seems to be fine.
[URL] .....
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My 2004 powerstroke recently started making a loud knock during the process of starting. Will make the sound warm or cold, however I mostly hear it when the truck is warm as it cranks a little longer and about two seconds into the crank something starts knocking. After the truck starts it runs perfectly fine.
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Have a knocking noise on my right front when I hit a hole or when the wheel comes up like when I turn I to a drive way that has a little hill the right tire hits and I hear a popping Boise sounds like its under the truck but I can't place it? I have a 2003 f250 crewcab 4x4 with 6.0 and 6inch lift with 37 inch tires....
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I have a 2001 6.8l v10 and have nothing but problems. now i got a knocking noise and the oil has water in it. i have no clue what is wrong and on start up it blows white smoke till its warm i have looked at the coolant lvls and they have not changed. the oil pressure is fine while driving but at idle and stop lights and stop signs it drops and the light comes on. i have not had a check engine light yet? what could be wrong? i have blown plugs 5 time 3 coils and 2 head replacements. I hope its just old oil or bad oil i have no clue it is due for an oil change but would just oil oil make all this happen. I also am seeing oil coming form the intake on the throttle body but the oil breathers are right there too.
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