Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F250 - Steering Column Not Turning?
Aug 31, 2015
I have a 2002 F250 diesel, the key will turn to acc. but not on. It feels like it is hitting something in the column. I tried moving the shifting lever back and forth with my foot on the break, as I turned the key but it would not turn. I am thinking the tumblers are OK because it goes into acc. It feels like their is some lever that is not releasing the shift lever, because if I turn the key hard the shift lever jumps. What is wrong, or how the interface between the lock tumbler and the shift lever works?
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Maybe its just my freaking OCD but on my 2015 f250 that I've owned since new the trim around the steering column doesn't line up directly with the dash! Not the steering wheel to the steering column trim but the column trim to the dash/instrument cluster. When I lock the tilt/tele lever in, the right side of the column lifts up maybe a 1/16th to maybe closer to 1/8th of an inch and it irritates me because the two lines to match up evenly. Is this normal for this design tilt/tele steering column? Is it normal? You can see the right side is just a little higher than the left side...
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I have a 2002 ford f250 superduty and when I have my headlight switch set to auto to come on when it gets dark they will for awhile and then my headlights will turn off for no reason.
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I bought a 2004 F250 Crew Cab LB 4x4 with the 5.4 Motor and when I turn left it has some Tight Spots and I can't figure out why, I checked the Drive axles to make sure the locking hubs were unlocked and they spun freely, I Also have a lot of play in the steering wheel, Could this all be Related to the Steering Box? What else should I check for ?
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I had some steering issues with my truck so took it for an evaluation at pep boys. They recommended a new steering gear box and tie rod that hooks to the pitman arm so I had them replace them. Steering was improved but now the wheel is canted to the left or right depending on when I make a turn. When I make a left turn, the wheel is canted about 10 o'clock. When I make a right turn, it's canted about 1 o'clock.
I looked under and had my brother turn the wheel and didn't really notice any thing loose. I lifted the front and noticed the left wheel bearings need to be replaced. I also noticed the shocks were shot and replaced them but it didn't make a difference in the crooked wheel.
Do you think it's the wheel bearing that can cause this? How about the ball joints? The truck has 407k miles and I bought it a month ago. Previous owner said he never replaced any steering components. Should I just replace all steering components with the Moog kit? I'd like to hold off on the $600+ kit for now as I just bought a a boat and the boat needs some stuff. I hope to find that one thing (hopefully not more) that's loose.
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My 2002 250 just got ball joints, bushings, sway arms, 4 wheel alignment and new tires to top it all off. Did All this to correct the shakes, shimmies, popping and grinding in the front end. Now they say I need a steering stabilizer up front. Does any other than ford make a bolt on one and haw much and where can I get one.
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I have been having trouble with my 2002 F250 SD, the steering at low RPM is next to impossible.. If i put it into N I can rev the engine and it gets "easier" but not very. I do not want to replace the pump and find out that it wasn't the problem...
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I have put a new steering pump on my 2002 f250 and all new hydraulic hoses. I plan to install a steering pump filter on the system to protect it from anything that is not steering pump fluid.
There are two intake ports to the steering pump. One is near the bottom of the pump and takes fluid from the steering pump cooler after it has left the steering gear. The other intake port is near the top of the pump and takes fluid from the booster.
My question is - which hose would be better to put a steering pump filter on? Is there anything wrong with putting a filter on both? I imagine the first intake hose is constantly circulating fluid and the other only circulates it when the steering wheel is used.
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After 240,000 miles I had to get the ball joints on my 02 f250 2 wheel drive replaced and the alignment set. I notice that the steering is really tight. In fact that it will not attempt to return to center on the highway. The guy that did the work has 30 years experience doing this sort of thing and he says I just need to drive it and it will loosen up. Interested in hearing from others that have replaced ball joints; Is this normal? How long do they take to loosen up?
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My brand new 2016 F-250 Super Duty has a misalignment running down the steering column. Looking just over the top of the airbag cover, the shroud that protects the gear shift and upper steering components is depressed on one side... and further back, the shroud for the cluster is depressed a different direction. Certainly nothing earth shattering, but it annoys me every time I see it.
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My steering wheel is loose as in moves back and forth if pushed or pulled right at the wheel.. everything else seems tight and still turns and drives fine.. took off the airbag and the center nut is tight.. it's been getting progressively worse since I bought it.. What it could be??? Loose bolt or nut or the steering column?
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I have a 02 F250 4x4 5.4. As I drive and when pulling into a driveway I hear a clunk that can be felt in the floor and the steering wheel. I've replaced the wheel bearings and seals, shocks, ball joints, sway bar links and bushings, tie rod ends at the gear box and "right hand inner". The other two tie rods are tight and so is the track bar. I cannot duplicate the sound if I jack it up and move parts around with a pry bar. I can however move the steer box sector shaft upwards about an 1/8. I've adjusted the screw but it didn't do anything. Could it be the steer box or the springs? I've even mounted a GoPro underneath but everything moves and I can't tell why it is.
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Ok i have a 99 f250 with a 6.8 v10 that is not turning over at all. I have checked the battery and its good. I have replaced the starter and the starter relay and have tested the starter and its good too. I have also used a volt meter on the batter, starter, and relay and looked at the relevant info and they are all in the correct volt range. I have also taken the starter off and looked at the flywheel and it has good teeth so thats not an issue. I am completely stumped now as to what it could be?
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My trouble is upon turning key to start everything goes dead (no power to anything). Does not always happen, sometimes she starts just fine.
After the power cut out if I turn key off, wait a minute, then back to on position she will sometimes come back as normal or sometimes the on "ding" will chatter and dash lights will be dim.
I have checked batt connections, starter/solenoid connections, block ground connection. All seems fine. Get same problem when I jump starter with screwdriver. Been suggested to me ignition switch to blame.
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I have a 2004 f250 with some front end troubles. When turning right once in a while it will make a hard CLUNK noise and then trying to drive down the street it drifts over to the left and I pull the wheel back to the right and when I turn the wheel it feels like I like theres something hitting somthing else in the front end. I have checked ball joints and tie rods and they are all nice and tight. Some stuff I have done that probably isn't related to my problem is shocks and sway bar end links. What this could be? Hopefully not the steering box!
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My 01 F-250's wipers would not shut off. As soon as the key was turned on they would come on. No delay but high and low only. Had to pull the fuse to drive it. I replaced the multi function switch as well as the relay with no fix. I did some reading on this problem and it is related to the "park" switch in the wiper motor itself. I took the black plastic cover off the motor which reveals the worm gear driving the plastic gear which acts as the switch.
The contacts for this switch are hard to get to as they are on the backside. I blew compressed air into every little crevice and removed most of the grease. I regreased and put it back together. Sure enough the wipers work just fine now. I am assuming the compressed air trick may be only temporary. Need to reveal the contacts for the park motor switch without destroying the plastic housing?
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I have a 2000 F250 SD with the V10 engine. The problem that I am having with it as of late is that whenever I perform a full turn I hear some clunking coming from the front end. The clunking is similar to that heard from cars that use CV joints FWD but of course it sound more "manly"
Anyways, my truck has the full axle on front so I suppose it could be either the u-joint at the hub or the hub itself. I would like some pointers so I can acquire the required parts.
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Have an 03 f250 6.0L and the tie rod from pitman arm moves easily and there isn't a steering stabilizer, noise got worse after I put new tires on front but it's a loud clunk that I can feel. I've replaced the sway bar bushings and end links. Would the worn tired rod make that noise or would it be ball joints?
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I have a '16 F250 4wd with the 6.7 and approx 3k miles. There has been a strange sound coming from the front end when turning left from a stoplight. It sounds like something slides or shifts and it only happens once in a while. The noise isn't loud but you can feel it.
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How many rounds can you turn your steering wheel each way? Mine goes not quite 2 rounds, I think it's been limited.
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Just bought a 2002 F-250. Truck came with 18" Rims with 275/70/18 tires. The turning radius is awful, almost unsafe. The stock rim and tire size should be 16" rims with approximately 265/75/16 tires. Would the larger rims have that big of an effect on turning radius? I have owned two 2006 F-250's, and they turned nothing like this truck. I have not really gotten into the front end to see if the stops have been adjusted and/or if the tires are hitting.
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