I have a '16 F250 4wd with the 6.7 and approx 3k miles. There has been a strange sound coming from the front end when turning left from a stoplight. It sounds like something slides or shifts and it only happens once in a while. The noise isn't loud but you can feel it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford F-250 with the gas v-10. Yesterday it started just fine as always. Today I get into it and it starts to turn over just fine then starts to make a grinding sound and the truck won't start. I have had a fuel issue in the mornings with once it started you had to barely press the gass to keep it running. But never makes a funny sound and always runs fine. This only last for a couple of min and then it runs fine for the rest of the day. The grinding is not the starter. I took it off and had it checked and it was fine.
The truck had been using oil. When I checked the oil level it was low but it was still on the stick. "I know a motor needs oil to run smooth but it's my dads truck and well let's just say he is not the best on maintenance". Also I smelled the oil and it does have a gas smell to it. So it definitely does have some gas in the oil. I tried to light the dipstick with a lighter and it wouldn't light. So not sure how much gas is in it but that's what I did.
So the question is, would something just in mid crank go bad and then not let the motor crank. Truck made no weird noises before this so I find it hard to believe the barrings just went out in mid crank and now it is shot.
Also I just checked compression on front cylinders.
Driver side read 75lbs
passenger side read 100lbs
In the last few hundred miles of driving, I notice there is a strange noise coming from what appears to be the front end of my truck. It sounds similar to a buzzsaw or a power sanding tool whenever it comes in contact with an object. The noise starts at around 30 mph, stops from 55-60mph, and starts again around 65 mph. The truck rides and drives normally and there doesn't seem to be any metal to metal contact noises or clunking and the hubs dont seem to be hot to the touch. I was thinking improperly balanced tires, wheel bearing, or front carrier assembly. What it could be? The noise just suddenly started and I was wondering if I should keep driving it?
View 7 RepliesMy dad just bought a 2001 F-250 Crewcab 4x4 w/V-10. 72,000 miles. Anyways i noticed a small almost exhaust leaking sound on the test drive. I had the dealership put it up on the rack so I could see the underside. I noticed that it has the famous broken manifold bolt. So I kinda wrote it off on that we would have to get that fixed soon. Anyways the noise hasn't gotten worse just now noticing it that it has set times when it happens.
It happens around 25 mph then goes away then back at 45 mph, then goes away. I am having a hard time describing it. Almost like the exhaust is building up pressure then releasing it when it gets too high. But then I starting thinking transmission something since it kinda has a delayed shift when the noise happens.To clarify I am not saying it anything to do with the torque converter. I am just rolling to find out what is going on.
So after this weekend's hurricane my 2011 f-250 started to making a noise when I accelerate. I don't know if water got in some where. But there's no MIL light coming on.
View 11 RepliesOk i have a 99 f250 with a 6.8 v10 that is not turning over at all. I have checked the battery and its good. I have replaced the starter and the starter relay and have tested the starter and its good too. I have also used a volt meter on the batter, starter, and relay and looked at the relevant info and they are all in the correct volt range. I have also taken the starter off and looked at the flywheel and it has good teeth so thats not an issue. I am completely stumped now as to what it could be?
View 5 RepliesMy trouble is upon turning key to start everything goes dead (no power to anything). Does not always happen, sometimes she starts just fine.
After the power cut out if I turn key off, wait a minute, then back to on position she will sometimes come back as normal or sometimes the on "ding" will chatter and dash lights will be dim.
I have checked batt connections, starter/solenoid connections, block ground connection. All seems fine. Get same problem when I jump starter with screwdriver. Been suggested to me ignition switch to blame.
I have a 2002 ford f250 superduty and when I have my headlight switch set to auto to come on when it gets dark they will for awhile and then my headlights will turn off for no reason.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 f250 with some front end troubles. When turning right once in a while it will make a hard CLUNK noise and then trying to drive down the street it drifts over to the left and I pull the wheel back to the right and when I turn the wheel it feels like I like theres something hitting somthing else in the front end. I have checked ball joints and tie rods and they are all nice and tight. Some stuff I have done that probably isn't related to my problem is shocks and sway bar end links. What this could be? Hopefully not the steering box!
View 7 RepliesMy 01 F-250's wipers would not shut off. As soon as the key was turned on they would come on. No delay but high and low only. Had to pull the fuse to drive it. I replaced the multi function switch as well as the relay with no fix. I did some reading on this problem and it is related to the "park" switch in the wiper motor itself. I took the black plastic cover off the motor which reveals the worm gear driving the plastic gear which acts as the switch.
The contacts for this switch are hard to get to as they are on the backside. I blew compressed air into every little crevice and removed most of the grease. I regreased and put it back together. Sure enough the wipers work just fine now. I am assuming the compressed air trick may be only temporary. Need to reveal the contacts for the park motor switch without destroying the plastic housing?
I was running my 99 F250 SD with the V10 around the DFW area pulling a car hauler with a Jeep on it. The last 50 or so miles on the way home she started shuddering at a constant speed unless I turned off the overdrive or I was accelerating or slowing down.
She's never given me any issues but this is bothering me. 4x4...
I have a 1999 F250 super duty with a mean vibration at 70+ mph. It is a 5.4L manual trans manual 4x4 extended cab short box with around 250k miles on the body and 50k on the motor. It is a one piece drive shaft with the double knuckle at the t- case. it has had a vibration in the drive line since i bought i about a year ago. there is almost zero vibration at 60 mph but at around 70 the vibration starts to get really bad. The vibration is speed related because when i push in the clutch or pull it out of gear the vibration is still there. i seems to vibrate more when winding out in 3rd and 4th gear but that may just be because off the exhaust resonating or something. I have already done u-joints, balanced the drive shaft, put brand new tires on mounted and balanced, replace transfer case output bearing and both front hub assemblies. the vibration feels like it is coming from the trans or transfer case. every thing i tried made very little impact on the vibration. I'm a loss and i don't know what else to try. i know the throw out bearing an pilot bushing are bad and the clutch is well worn so ill be replacing that soon but i don't believe that is causing the vibration.
View 7 RepliesI have 2004 F250 6.0 diesel. I added 35s with diamo rims and I installed a front end lift which added a small leaf springs to the factory leaf spring to raise the front end 2 inches . The truck drives fine no problems at high speeds and low speeds except for right at 45 mph. At that speed the whole truck vibrates up and down . If I accelerate the vibration goes away. Discount tire rotated balanced etc and even replace a rim and nothing has changed. I did put the factory wheels and tires back on and the vibration went away. Put the big tires and rims back on and vibration is there at 45 mph. How to troubleshoot this ? I have 90,000 miles on her.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 SD with the V10 engine. The problem that I am having with it as of late is that whenever I perform a full turn I hear some clunking coming from the front end. The clunking is similar to that heard from cars that use CV joints FWD but of course it sound more "manly"
Anyways, my truck has the full axle on front so I suppose it could be either the u-joint at the hub or the hub itself. I would like some pointers so I can acquire the required parts.
Have an 03 f250 6.0L and the tie rod from pitman arm moves easily and there isn't a steering stabilizer, noise got worse after I put new tires on front but it's a loud clunk that I can feel. I've replaced the sway bar bushings and end links. Would the worn tired rod make that noise or would it be ball joints?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 diesel, the key will turn to acc. but not on. It feels like it is hitting something in the column. I tried moving the shifting lever back and forth with my foot on the break, as I turned the key but it would not turn. I am thinking the tumblers are OK because it goes into acc. It feels like their is some lever that is not releasing the shift lever, because if I turn the key hard the shift lever jumps. What is wrong, or how the interface between the lock tumbler and the shift lever works?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 f250 SuperDuty with a nasty vibration That begins at about 70mph. The truck is an extended cab 5.4l Manual trans 4X4 with a one piece driveshaft (No mid bearing). The Vibration appears to me to be a driveline vibration that is speed dependent. It is the same in gear, out of gear clutch in or out. I have replaced the wheel bearings/hub assemblies on all four corners, completely rebuilt and balanced the driveshaft the driveshaft, removed the front driveshaft, put brand new tires mounted and balanced on all four corners, new clutch, had the flywheel turned and balanced, and replaced the transfer case output bearings. Pinion bearing feels tight and does not leak.
Also the Input in the trans felt tight when i had the trans out. The truck had the vibration when i bought the truck and still vibrates after i have done all of this work. i did not change the motor mounts because they looked fine. when i bought the truck the tabs on the extension housing holding the trans-mount to the trans were broken so i make a huge "exhaust clamp" to straddle the trans and bolt to the trans mount.
After driving the truck up north last weekend the truck seems to shake going taking of at lower rpm as if the motor mounts and trans mounts are bad. I guess my questions is can a bad trans mount, motor mounts cause this Vibration at highway speed. if so is there a way to fasten the trans-mount to the extension housing without replacing the extension housing. If not what else can cause this issue?
Have a 2007 F250 6.0 diesel with the standard issues including misfire at highway speed. Assume the bulletproof kit also cures the stiction problem? in reviewing the threads and looking at the vendors, references are made to fixing the oil cooler issue, egr issue, etc., but no one addresses stiction issue directly.
View 10 RepliesSo as of 2 weeks ago there is a popping sound coming from somewhere behind the cab when I'm turning in reverse. Its intermittent and only happens once or twice when I'm pulling out of a parking spot. It doesn't happen every time. Probably about 4 times a week but it only happens when its cold and been sitting. It doesn't happen when I'm driving in 2wd or 4wd. I was wondering what it could be and if its gonna be something I can afford to hold off on for awhile.
View 9 RepliesI bought a 2004 F250 Crew Cab LB 4x4 with the 5.4 Motor and when I turn left it has some Tight Spots and I can't figure out why, I checked the Drive axles to make sure the locking hubs were unlocked and they spun freely, I Also have a lot of play in the steering wheel, Could this all be Related to the Steering Box? What else should I check for ?
View 3 RepliesOnly got a click when turning key, in Park or Neutral. Made sure I had >12.4V from battery. Jumped starter solenoid with a remote start switch across main power line to starter and the 's' post, crank pulley almost moved, but didn't rotate. Removed belt, all pulleys rotate, but could not budge the crank pulley with a short breaker bar/socket, rotating clockwise from front. Removed starter, that upper bolt is a super pain! Not even sure I'll get it back in. Jumped starter solenoid again on the bench using a battery and jumpers, not the best connections, starter hesitated little bit, but opened up fully a few times, so I'm thinking it's ok (even though the power line from the solenoid to starter motor needs re-taping). Tried rotating flywheel from starter hole, no good leverage point, but no movement. Before I re-install the starter, how much torque should I be putting on the front crank pulley? Some say it should move easy enough cause the starter isn't that powerful. Others say remove the spark plugs to reduce compression? This truck is new to me, so I unfortunately have no history.
View 1 Replies