Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Popping Sound When Turning In Reverse
Jan 12, 2017
So as of 2 weeks ago there is a popping sound coming from somewhere behind the cab when I'm turning in reverse. Its intermittent and only happens once or twice when I'm pulling out of a parking spot. It doesn't happen every time. Probably about 4 times a week but it only happens when its cold and been sitting. It doesn't happen when I'm driving in 2wd or 4wd. I was wondering what it could be and if its gonna be something I can afford to hold off on for awhile.
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I have a 2015 F250 6.7L and I am having problems with the brakes. When you first start the truck and put it in reverse and hit the brakes there is a continuous popping noise coming from the floor board and it can be felt in the brake pedal. It feels like the brake pedal is kicking back, once you drive the truck a little ways down the road the brakes work fine but if you hit the brakes a few times in a row like coming to a red light the noise is there again and it can be felt in the pedal.
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I have a 2011 F250 4x4 with 8000 miles. I put a 3.5" ReadyLift on it at 3500miles and Rancho dual stabilizers at 5000miles. This past week I've started to noticed my truck's steering making slight popping noises when turning the steering wheel. I crawled under the truck today and I can't pin point the orgin of the noise. It seems it is coming from higher up in the steering system possibly. It doesn't seem to be from the wheels or tie rod.
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I have a question about when my truck is in 4 wheel drive. I've read a lot of posts but couldn't find specific answers to these questions: When I take a left turn theres quite a bit of resistance and a little hopping. Also when turning in reverse its almost like the truck is getting hung up and a with resistance, something doesn't seem right. Could any of this be if only one hub is engaging? Also, when i just manually lock the hubs, I only noticed that the passenger side axle spins when I manually turn the front drive shaft.
Also this is the first time I've used the 4 wheel drive. And I recently replaced front axle u joints, as well as a double cardan joint rebuild, only issue w/ that is that is i forgot to mark the orientation where the front driveshaft bolts onto the the transfer case...so it's either on the right way or a 180 from how it was before, because I could see the original pattern.
2000 4x4 7.3 long bed ext cab, 159k
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I have a 2002 F350 with the triton 5.4. For the last week it has been running like crap. I just did my plugs about a month ago. I don't know if it's a miss fire or bad fuel or I don't know what it could be. It's a popping sound coming from my exhaust and when it happens I lose power. It happens off and on. One second it will run fine and normal and the next runs bad. What it could be. Today I just changed my fuel filter and added STP octane boost and fuel injector cleaner. Haven't seen a difference yet.
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I have a 2008 F250 which has been a awesome truck. Very few issues except for one that no one can seem to fix. Its regarding my brakes and a mysterious reason all of them have to a degree locked up and smoked the pads rotors etc. I now have 80k on the truck and have replaced all brakes once and now the front left have locked up for a second time. The scenario goes like this:
So i'm driving along and if the front brake locks up I can begin to smell it. So I pull over and smoke rolls out along with the overheating popping sound from the effected brake. Rear brakes usually are not found until I stop which i get out and then can smell them. Funny thing is the brakes have locked up when not towing. Also, I have never had more than one happen at a time. So as today all brake pads and rotors have been replaced and now the left front has overheated again. From what I can tell the caliper just doesn't fully release. What could be causing this?
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2002 Excursion 4x4 7.3. I've read about this on here before but I've forgotten what the problem is. When the wheels are turned and the vehicle is going forward at some speed, there is a knocking sound, like a ba-doomp ba-doomp ba-doomp. Does it in both directions, sounds like its in the front hub area. I don't have the time to fix it myself, how much should I expect to pay a dealer and/or independent shop to do it?
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I have a '16 F250 4wd with the 6.7 and approx 3k miles. There has been a strange sound coming from the front end when turning left from a stoplight. It sounds like something slides or shifts and it only happens once in a while. The noise isn't loud but you can feel it.
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So today I was backing up my 11000# fifth wheel at the campground when at 1500-2000 rpm I hear this awful shrieking sound coming from under the hood. I heard it the whole time while backing up and under a load. I never heard it once going forward. So when I get home I put it in reverse and hold the brakes and again I hear this shrieking sound coming from under the hood I get it up to 1500 rpms or so not moving just holding it and the more throttle i apply the louder the shrieking gets.
Now remember the truck is not moving its just spooled up, holding the brakes. I think that maybe something is wrong with the turbo, but I dont want to jump to conclusions. This truck is a 2001 F350 SRW CC LB 7.3 161,000 2 owner miles, 4 inch turbo back FLO PRO Straight pipe, and gauges everything else stock. What is moving that is making this horrible sound.
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Today was the first time I have locked my wheel hubs in and used 4 wheel drive. However when I did all this i noticed that when I turn there is a growling sound but only when turning. It does not make the sound when unlocked and in 2 wheel drive.
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My 2001 F250 5.4 has started to make a screeching sound. It only happens when it is in gear (auto) moving forwards or in reverse, and increases in pitch relative to engine speed rather than road speed, and is much more noticeable under mild to moderate acceleration. Maybe I actually mean transmission input speed?
When simply maintaining road speed, it is almost silent. Anyway, if I drop it into neutral while driving, the sound stops, and starts again when I put it back into gear.
From the drivers seat and with the windows closed, it sounds as though it is coming from the engine bay at steering column height, although this is really tough to gauge while actually looking where I am going. With windows open, it comes from both sides of the vehicle.
1st thought is tranny......
2nd thought is a water pump bearing, although there are no apparent cooling problems or leaks.
3rd thought is the alternator bearing, although there are no charging problems.
I say alternator because I recently changed the serpentine belt and noticed that the alternator made a very faint screech-like sound when spun without the belt on it. The main screech was there before I changed the belt. Maybe it gets really loud under load?
So I'm kinda scratching my bean and wondering what expensive piece of mechanics I'm going to shell out for next. If it's #2 or #3, I can do those myself, but if it's #1.... it likely means more money than I have to spare.
I did wonder about removing the serpentine belt and driving a very short distance (end of the driveway and back) to see if I can remove the pulleys, tensioner or other belt driven parts from the equation. Maybe this is not such a smart idea. I'm somewhat at a loss right now.
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I have a 2001 Ford F-250 with the gas v-10. Yesterday it started just fine as always. Today I get into it and it starts to turn over just fine then starts to make a grinding sound and the truck won't start. I have had a fuel issue in the mornings with once it started you had to barely press the gass to keep it running. But never makes a funny sound and always runs fine. This only last for a couple of min and then it runs fine for the rest of the day. The grinding is not the starter. I took it off and had it checked and it was fine.
The truck had been using oil. When I checked the oil level it was low but it was still on the stick. "I know a motor needs oil to run smooth but it's my dads truck and well let's just say he is not the best on maintenance". Also I smelled the oil and it does have a gas smell to it. So it definitely does have some gas in the oil. I tried to light the dipstick with a lighter and it wouldn't light. So not sure how much gas is in it but that's what I did.
So the question is, would something just in mid crank go bad and then not let the motor crank. Truck made no weird noises before this so I find it hard to believe the barrings just went out in mid crank and now it is shot.
Also I just checked compression on front cylinders.
Driver side read 75lbs
passenger side read 100lbs
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I continuously read that people with 6.2 F250s averaging 13 mpg or so in a combination city/highway driving. This 2014 4x4 barely has enough power to move itself (honestly, I'd rather have my Ram 1500 back) and barely gets 10mpg. Basically have to give it about half-pedal to even get up to freeway speed and floor it if i want to pass anything. Is it just that much of a POS or does this not sound right? Other than a massive "clunk" sound when shifting from reverse to drive or vice versa, no indication of any problems.
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Recently, when turning while the car is in reverse, I started noticing a popping sound coming from the area near my right front tire. Now, when I accelerate quickly from a dead stop or drive away after being stopped on a hill, I'm hearing that same popping/clunk noise from the right front tire. When I'm stopped at a light and then take my foot off the brake, wait a second, and then gently accelerate, I don't hear it. I've had a couple of mechanics take a look at the cv boot for the right front tire, but they tell me that it's not cracked or broken. Is it possible that the cv joint has gone bad, but the boot is not broken? Or, is there something else going on?
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So when my hubs are locked they make a popping noise. Not when I'm turning like a 4wd would but all the time. And then when I turn on my ESOF in the cab something makes a horrendous noise like its binding up really bad. When I unlock my hubs and turn off my ESOF it all goes away. My 4wd does not engage without the hubs locked. I have the warn standard manual hubs. I'm not sure how to check to see what's messed up.
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I have a 2002 f250 super duty 4 dr w/ full lenth bed. has v10. had oil cooler problem, motor oil in coolant. fixed that, then rad started leeking, replaced that. now blowing freeze plugs on block. replaced i on drivers side rear, now popped one on pass side. whats going on? i know oil pressure is more than water, did the oil cooler leak losen the freeze plugs? What size freeze plugs they are? no parts house around here knows.
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I am trying to put in after market keyless entry on my 03 sd wired up my relays according to the 5 wire alternating door locks found on this page
[URL]....
but it keeps popping my fuse when I try to put it in, if this is even the correct set up I found another guy on here that used the same set up but never said if it worked or not
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My 02 diesel has started popping out of park if i do not make sure it is completely in. Is this usually just loose bolts on the shift tube or something bigger?
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A few days ago my check coolant additive message start popping up, 14k miles. After doing some reading it sounds like all I need to do is either have my coolant tested or get the test kit and do it myself. My confusion is which test kit to purchase. Since my truck is a 2015 PSD some people are saying that I need to buy a test kit that comes with test vials instead of using the test strips. Which test kit should I buy?
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I have an 07 350 6.0 was plowing last night toward the end of the night i herd a popping coming off the front end of the truck. My esof does not work so I manually lock the hubs and then turn on the 4x4 from the dash when I want 4x4, ok so after the few pops I heard while slightly turning I straightened out and all seem ok till I pulled outta the parking lot started driving and i had a noise kinda sounded like driving on a flat while at speeds at around 25-35mph so I got out unlocked the hubs drove it and it drives fine unlocked. so what I've done so far is while hubs unlocked climbed under it spun the front driveshaft by hand and spins freely. When the truck is rolling with no issues i locked the hubs left the switch in 2wd turned the wheel and started to make a turn and POP loud and shakes the truck violently it feel likes the steering and the truck is binding when trying to turn.
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03 f350 4x4. New front calipers and pads.
Wondering if there's a 'trick' to getting the front brake pads into the caliper . Those damn springs kept popping out. I'd get three of the four ends into place in the pad holes then one would pop out while I'm trying to get the fourth in.
After about a hour of trying every different way that I could think of, another set of hands came by and with four hands holding things in place, it finally did the trick.
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