I was running my 99 F250 SD with the V10 around the DFW area pulling a car hauler with a Jeep on it. The last 50 or so miles on the way home she started shuddering at a constant speed unless I turned off the overdrive or I was accelerating or slowing down.
She's never given me any issues but this is bothering me. 4x4...
When braking the truck shakes terribly, enough to toss a drink out of the cup holder almost. Sometimes there is a slight feeling in the peddle but not always. The shudder feels like it is timed with each revolution of the wheels.
It developed from a perfectly stopping truck over the course of maybe a month. I don't drive the truck that much either.
Things I have checked:
1, all u-joints, they all look and feel good, no play or slop in them
2, air pressure in all tires, even rotated them, no effect
3, brakes-front and back all looked good but I went ahead and replaced front pads and rotors, cleaned caliper pins, zero effect.
4, shudder exists whether in gear and slowing or in neutral, 2wd and 4wd
What the heck else is there to check? My first thought was, front brakes/warped rotors, but after pulling them apart there was so much life left on the rotors and pads and replacing all that with new did nothing! Could bad back brakes cause this much of a shudder? They look fine as well.
I have a 1999 F250 super duty with a mean vibration at 70+ mph. It is a 5.4L manual trans manual 4x4 extended cab short box with around 250k miles on the body and 50k on the motor. It is a one piece drive shaft with the double knuckle at the t- case. it has had a vibration in the drive line since i bought i about a year ago. there is almost zero vibration at 60 mph but at around 70 the vibration starts to get really bad. The vibration is speed related because when i push in the clutch or pull it out of gear the vibration is still there. i seems to vibrate more when winding out in 3rd and 4th gear but that may just be because off the exhaust resonating or something. I have already done u-joints, balanced the drive shaft, put brand new tires on mounted and balanced, replace transfer case output bearing and both front hub assemblies. the vibration feels like it is coming from the trans or transfer case. every thing i tried made very little impact on the vibration. I'm a loss and i don't know what else to try. i know the throw out bearing an pilot bushing are bad and the clutch is well worn so ill be replacing that soon but i don't believe that is causing the vibration.
View 7 RepliesI have 2004 F250 6.0 diesel. I added 35s with diamo rims and I installed a front end lift which added a small leaf springs to the factory leaf spring to raise the front end 2 inches . The truck drives fine no problems at high speeds and low speeds except for right at 45 mph. At that speed the whole truck vibrates up and down . If I accelerate the vibration goes away. Discount tire rotated balanced etc and even replace a rim and nothing has changed. I did put the factory wheels and tires back on and the vibration went away. Put the big tires and rims back on and vibration is there at 45 mph. How to troubleshoot this ? I have 90,000 miles on her.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 f250 SuperDuty with a nasty vibration That begins at about 70mph. The truck is an extended cab 5.4l Manual trans 4X4 with a one piece driveshaft (No mid bearing). The Vibration appears to me to be a driveline vibration that is speed dependent. It is the same in gear, out of gear clutch in or out. I have replaced the wheel bearings/hub assemblies on all four corners, completely rebuilt and balanced the driveshaft the driveshaft, removed the front driveshaft, put brand new tires mounted and balanced on all four corners, new clutch, had the flywheel turned and balanced, and replaced the transfer case output bearings. Pinion bearing feels tight and does not leak.
Also the Input in the trans felt tight when i had the trans out. The truck had the vibration when i bought the truck and still vibrates after i have done all of this work. i did not change the motor mounts because they looked fine. when i bought the truck the tabs on the extension housing holding the trans-mount to the trans were broken so i make a huge "exhaust clamp" to straddle the trans and bolt to the trans mount.
After driving the truck up north last weekend the truck seems to shake going taking of at lower rpm as if the motor mounts and trans mounts are bad. I guess my questions is can a bad trans mount, motor mounts cause this Vibration at highway speed. if so is there a way to fasten the trans-mount to the extension housing without replacing the extension housing. If not what else can cause this issue?
Have a 2007 F250 6.0 diesel with the standard issues including misfire at highway speed. Assume the bulletproof kit also cures the stiction problem? in reviewing the threads and looking at the vendors, references are made to fixing the oil cooler issue, egr issue, etc., but no one addresses stiction issue directly.
View 10 RepliesI have a '16 F250 4wd with the 6.7 and approx 3k miles. There has been a strange sound coming from the front end when turning left from a stoplight. It sounds like something slides or shifts and it only happens once in a while. The noise isn't loud but you can feel it.
View 2 RepliesI have an 04 6.0 F250. I am having a shaking between 1500 and 2500 RPM around 45 - 55 MPH. I have no guesses what is calling this, but the truck runs fine otherwise.
View 8 RepliesTruck is an 02 F250 Automatic 4X4, 7.3 PSD.
Cruise control will turn on, will sometimes set speed and sometimes will not. If it does set and work it may kick off at any second or it may run fine. I have noticed it seems to kick off mainly after going over a slight bump in the highway or it may just kick off for the hell of it. Truck has 50,000 miles on it, I bought it new. Also having trouble with the throttle position sensor, it seems to have a "dead spot" at about 58 mph that shows up when I romp down on the pedal to pass on 2 lane roads. Can these two symptoms be related? Both are very aggravating. FWIW it does have the power adjust pedals. Truck is 100% stock, no power chips or other upgrades.
I have and 07 F250 and the #2 speed for the blower motor don't work (hasn't since I bought it) I read that the most common cause of this is the resistor under the hood on the firewall so I replaced that and still no 2nd speed??? Where I look next? Motor itself maybe?
View 11 RepliesNow that I use my truck as a daily driver I am noticing a vibration under acceleration at 30-35 and constant vibration at 45-50 accelerating or maintaining speed. I have replaced all three u-joints as well as new ribbed highway tires all around and still have the vibration. It seems worse in OD. I have done a little research and am either going to shim center support/machine a new one or have a one piece shaft made and need info on how to successfully gotten rid of this vibe on their truck mainly the amount of shimming required and the final driveline angle. It seems that most posts regarding this issue lean towards the fact that the 45-50mph vibe is normal for my year super duty and that's probably right but I want to remedy problem not "live with it!" (10 mile 45mph stretch to work @ 4AM, vibe bugs the heck out of me!)
Truck is 2000 f250 SC 2wd 4r100 3.73 gear currently 51000 miles.
I have an 06 f250 that is making a growling noise that is speed sensitive and sounds like it might be coming from the front. I thought it was tire noise from my old worn out tires but with new tires it still maks noise, but tires have pretty rough tread. How can I tell if it could be a wheel bearing? It seems like the noise quiets down a little on right turns. It is kind of a growling humming noise that changes with speed.
View 3 RepliesI need to replace, its either a brake pressure sensor or speed control deactivation switch . Would like to know which it is and can I get a generic one from other auto parts beside a ford dealer Can post a pic of part as soon as I figure out how to do that exactly. 2002 f250 super duty....
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 f250 and the heater will blow cold air unless you are driving in like highway conditions. If you stop or drive slow it blows cold air only. What is causing this???
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 f350. When idling uo can't really hear the miss. Driving at about 40-50 mph it will shack and shutter real bad. Hooked up spanner and had miss fire codes for cyl. 1,4,9. Changed out all 10 plugs, and boots. Also changed out the coil on all three cyl also. Still have the miss and shutter. Also changed out #9 injector ...
View 12 RepliesMy 2000 f250 4x4 V10 5spd manual with LSD and 63k mi gets an intermittent but very strong vibration like a shuddering, growling, rumbling in 2WD. The 1st time it only lasted about 1 second. It had been making a swooshing noise that sounded like front left wheel bearing for several thousand miles before this, so i replaced bearing assembly even though it turned smoothly.
After that, It still made the exact same swooshing noise and after a couple miles at 45mph, it had the strong vibration/shudder that lasted about 3 seconds. I stopped and locked the hubs manually. The vibration happened again in a couple miles, so seems like it's not the needle bearings in front stub shafts or locking hubs. On that last occurrence, the vibe went on for 5 seconds, felt the same with clutch in, and went away only after truck slowed down to nearly a stop. I've driven it about 6 mi total since the 1st occurrence.
Front right Wheel bearings feel smooth. I unbolted the driveshaft support bearing and it spins smoothly. The front u-joint maybe had a tiny bit of play, all bolts tight. I didn't check the nuts for yokes, but it didn't look like yokes had any play. Drive shaft slip joint moves smoothly. No up-down play at pinion shaft input into rear diff and output from transfer case. Rear diff oil was full with a little bit of silvery sludge on the magnetic filler plug, maybe 1/10 of a cc, no metals slivers or chunks. I raised the rear wheels and ran 5th gear 2WD at idle (~30mph) and touched a 4' listening stick to the drivetrain components.
The only odd sounds were from the rear differential. It sounded like a bad bearing with random crunches and thuds mixed in with the normal whirring. Crunches and thuds were loudest at front of diff housing. I blocked one wheel and repeated in 3rd gear. You could hear noise like gears meshing (noisy spider gears? maybe was LSD clutches?). The differential was warm after 5-10 minutes, with the hottest area being about 3" from the front of diff, just before the housing widens.
So, I'm guessing the pinion bearing is bad and the intermittent shudder is the bearing race spinning in the case when bearing seizes.
My trouble is that the alternator light on my 2004 F-250 Diesel began to come on occasionally, but never constant. Taking in the fact that it was still the original alternator, and over 70,000 miles, I figured it was time for a new one. I installed the new one and after two days the light came on again. I tested the alternator and it read 13.84 volts while running. With the engine shut off, I had 12.59, and 12.6 volts at the batteries. What may be my problem? Diesel down.
View 8 RepliesI've replaced the pads and rotors on my 97 f250 HD, only to have constant squealing. I've replaced ranger rotors before with no problem but this has been an adventure. It's squeals constantly up to 35, (I've only went up to 35) and squeals louder under braking. Just looking for some pointers. Probably just need a good cleaning. The truck is parked until its fixed more than likely.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 with a7.3 power stroke, 6 speed manual with manual t case and hubs. I have a bad grinding noise when in 2 wheel drive. Similar sound as if you are trying to shift t case into 4 wheel drive too slowly. The grinding is constant in 2 wheel drive, but if I shift it into 4 wheel drive, the noise completely goes away. I have been driving around in 4 wheel drive (T case only, manual hubs not locked) for the past 2 days. If I shift back into 2 wheel drive, a constant terrible grinding noise returns. What could be wrong, and why it goes away in 4 wheel drive?????
View 3 RepliesI did the HID headlight swap about a month and a half ago. Driving tonight about an hour away in heavy constant rain my headlights have gone out... They have flickered. They have gone in and out a couple times but end up off. Any Quick fix????
View 14 RepliesI was getting ready to run a fused wire from the battery to the rear of the truck to power my bed lights. Then I read where some owners have jumped the trailer charge relay socket to provide constant 12v at the 7-pin trailer plug.
I never keep my trailer cord connected to the truck when camping so the chances of the trailer draining the battery are nil.I don't want powering the bed lights from other sources as I have decided I want 12v to bed light switch always available.