Ford Excursion :: Passenger Window Rolled Down But Not Going Up
Jun 27, 2012
I just finished doing the actuator repair on the passenger lock that was explained on this site. Put everything back together and checked my window. The window rolled down, but nothing for up. The switch on the drivers door would not work the window either. Pulled the switch apart and with my ohm meter was getting power to switch, but no other wires gave me a reading. So I figured it was my switch and went down and bought a new one. Put new switch in nothing. I then tried the drivers door switch and window worked? What to try now. I pulled fuse #7 that is said to be for my windows/locks during all this and all the windows except the passenger worked????
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
Everything I've seen in the forum refers to alarms activating and how to turn them off, my problem is the opposite. Last year I performed a simple injector cup procedure on my 2000 7.3 Excursion which took about 3 months, during which time I had my batteries removed. When I finally buttoned everything back up I noticed that my alarm does the "chirp", but that I can leave a window rolled down and open any door without it going off. How to get this to reset? I can hit the panic button and get the alarm, but as a security feature it's not working.
View 6 Replies
I bought my GS new and it has 40K miles now. It is a 2010 GS AWD. Yesterday I get off work, a hot day, I get in the car, started the car, and passenger front window rolled down by it self. I tried to rolled it back up and it would not go up. I shut the car off and re-started and was able to roll it up.
I thought maybe it was the heat. The next day it happened again, but this time while I was driving. There are no funny noises coming from in side the door and no water has ever gotten in there. I also never leave the windows cracked instead I raise the sun roof up for heat to escape. I find this very odd self-operating window. The rest of the windows work just fine.
Battery has never been disconnected. what may be causing this window to operate on its own? a lose wire maybe?
View 3 Replies
I have a 97 xlt fully loaded. Have been noticing once and a while the battery drained enough not to start. Have been attributing it to my son not turning off the dvd player in the back. I was wrong. Went out this evening to pick up company van, and the truck was dead. When i reached in to unlock the door, i accidently pushed on the power window switch and the window rolled out....key was not in the ignition. It quit when I opened the door.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2001 Ford F150 Super Crew. Last year it got really cold (2 degrees) and I went to roll down the driver's side front window to get ice off of my mirror. Something broke and my window fell down into my door. I was able to fish the window out and it rolls up and holds the window in place. It will go down a couple of inches, but when it falls it kinda falls forward and then to the bottom.
I have the panel off again right now because my wife used my truck and forgot about the window and I had to go through the process of getting it out again. So I figure now is a good time to fix it.
What broke and what I need to do to fix it? As I say, it will catch and work fine once I pull the window to a certain height and then it seals just fine as long as I don't use it. I looked at other threads and none seemed to fit exactly what mine is doing.
View 8 Replies
My wife took my '05 Excursion diesel to work today with temps near zero. Got the sticky doors open for her and sprayed the seals with silicone so they won't freeze shut again. I don't think the spray has anything to do with this problem, but thought I'd mention it since I used it this morning.
At lunchtime she got in the truck, started it, and the electric passenger window behind the driver went down by itself and now won't go back up. All the other windows (and door locks) continue to operate properly. Thinking that perhaps some ice/water might be shorting out the circuit, I tried banging on and slamming the door, as well as "futzing" with both switches (drivers door and the switch on the problem door) with no change.
Also, I haven't had the door panels off the X, so if there are any tricks to popping the electric panel out without breaking retaining hardware....
View 2 Replies
Rolled all the windows down(for the first time) to play some tunes. All of them went down like they should and all came back up but the back right passenger window. hit the switch...nothing, not even a tick like its trying to do something, it went down fine and dandy but is now totally dead. Figured it was the master switch on drivers door, spent the last two hours taking that apart, got down to the switch connections, cleaned connections and put back together...still nothing. At this point a really need to get it back up somehow(rain moving in), me and my brother tried jumping the connector, made some sparks fly but never got it up. mashing it hard, taking other switches from other doors, have tried all that and it still wont go up..er know.
View 13 Replies
Rear passenger window will only go up. I tried new motor, same problem, swapped switch with other back door the problem stayed on the same side. Drivers main switch to that rear window does same thing, up but not down.
View 12 Replies
Rear passenger's side window doesn't work, everything else is OK so its not the fuse, switch, or lockout.
View 5 Replies
My passenger side rear window will not open. Is there a fuse for this or is the motor just bad?
View 3 Replies
I rolled up my left rear window a week ago and got a serious pop and crunch from it. I now have taken the time to take it apart and found that the cable has snapped and the carriage is in pieces. I'm not going to bother replacing any of it. To the point.. the motor has a crap load of wires going to it. I would like to get rid of it all together, brace up the rear window(s) and never look back. Is there any reason why I could not just unplug and remove the motor and its control or is there something else running form or through it too?
View 3 Replies
2001 XLT V10.. rear passenger window would not go down so I replaced the window motor, all went well.
With the switch and window went down nicely, would not return upwards. Changed switches with the other door, no change. Went to driver door and used the master there, nothing.
Pulled the motor back out, goes only one direction. Tested the old motor, same thing just opposite direction...old motor would not bring window down, new motor will not bring window up. ok..
Now, with them out, I plugged them into the socket again and used the driver door control for the right rear passenger window...nothing at all. At the passenger door itself we have the actuator going in one direction...at the drivers door trying to make the passenger rear actuator work..nada, zip, dead.
Took the motor and plugged it into another door and both motors are working perfectly.. So..can the driver door switch be bad and upsetting the system? I truly hate electrical...this confirms my distaste..
View 1 Replies
Recently had a driver's side window replaced in my 99 GMC Sierra. Also had the regulator and a door handle replaced as they were broken as well, but I knew this going in. Was informed I needed a new master switch and had them order/install.
Today I turned the key on and the window began rolling down on it's own. I hit the switch to stop it, which it did, but only as long as I held the switch down. Now the window is all the way down and will not roll back up. Passenger side window works fine from either switch. Door locks work as well for whatever that's worth.
View 7 Replies
My driver side window makes a noise when it is being rolled down. About half way down, it sounds like it is rubbing against something. This noise only happens when it's being rolled down, not up. The funny thing is, this noise started happening after I got a sub installed. I doubt it has anything to do with the installation but just wanted to point that out. Could it just be that it is dirty inside? I also have my windows tinted but the noise came way after that.
View 4 Replies
A couple of months back my driver side window began to make this terrible squeaking noise when rolled up and down. I noticed that the noise is not as bad when it is cooler out and when I run my car through the wash with wax (just an option they have at the carwash place).After some internet research I believe that the problem is with a part of window regulator mechanism.
There were a couple of options available to me:1. Replace window regulator mechanism (great instructions on pelicanparts.com). To do it on my own is about $80 (part cost) and 5-6 hours of work or $600 at the dealer's. 2. Locate the motor of window regulator, open it and clean it. Probably 5-6 hours of work, but $0!!!3. Open the door, clean inside and grease the tracks.
I opened the door and cleaned the glass and tracks – no result! I brought it back to the dealer (car is not under warranty anymore) and they were nice enough to open it again for me and grease the tracks – no result except for marks on my window and the verdict that I need to replace the regulator mechanism….
View 8 Replies
So I've been noticing some issues with my 2011 GTI with only 1800 miles. I had some weird drive by wire issues, like the motor holding its RPMs with the clutch in for excessive time, a start up and idle issue (TPS?), my passenger window is very slow (heard that this is common), and now my driver window hesitates and pauses when rolling it down... ERR!
And yes I will take it to the dealer, its just that I live 100 plus miles away.
View 16 Replies
So after a lot of work, I got the door actuator fixed. Instantly after, the window was sluggish to go down but it went all the way down, then it was sluggish to go up. Striked me as odd. Maybe I got a wire in the way? Happened twice more and then it wouldn't go down past an inch (from the top) and still will barely move. What could have happened or how I fix this? It is the driver's window and I live in a gated apartment complex
I should probably note that I had to unscrew that beam on the very left of the door (close to the actual door lock) and it wouldn't go back after 20 minutes of haggling with it so I took a small hammer and hit the bottom part of it so it would be aligned with the hole for the bolt. If this caused the problem, how much of a nightmare is it to fix it...?
View 3 Replies
I bought a nice 2000 Excursion with the 6.8 V-10 a few weeks ago, and got it really cheap because it had a few things the previous owner just couldn't figure out.
One issue the PO couldn't resolve is the passenger side rear window--he recently spent money having all new lock actuators and window motors put in because a couple of them had quit working, but the right rear still won't go down and he didn't want to spend any more $$ figuring out why. All other windows function normally, and I believe the right rear would go UP if I could ever get it down because the problem is only with the lowering voltage, not the raising voltage.
First I checked at the right rear motor connection and toggled the right rear door switch--I had 12v to raise, but nothing to lower. I swapped switches with the left rear door, a known good motor and switch...same result. I checked voltage at the INPUT to the RR switch....same result--I get 12v to raise, nothing to lower. So I moved to the next logical place, the master control (drivers door switch). On the output side of the switch, voltage toggles between +12v and -12v as it should to raise and lower. Everything is good from the time it leaves the driver's door switch, so apparently I'm losing my lowering voltage somewhere between the output of the driver's window switch and the input of the rear passenger window switch. I checked for chafing/loose/corroded wiring all the way from the B-pillar to the right rear door switch, a common cause of this symptom, and everything looks fine for that stretch of wiring.
View 6 Replies
Today my excursion left rear window came off the track and felled all the way down. I finally got the window back up and into the holders that the glass set in. What do I use to glue or what holds the window in? A friend used JP weld but that didn't work for too long.
View 2 Replies
My son has an '03 Explorer. The passenger side window will not go down. We took the panel off the door and used a volt meter to check to see if voltage was coming from the switch to the motor. Both the up and down side of the motor pigtail was getting fire from both the driver side switch and the passenger side switch. We bought a used window assembly (cables, motor, etc) and tried the switches. The switch worked until the window was fully extended to the up/closed position, then would not go down...just like the one in the door. Took the motor off the window assembly (the original one still in the door) and tried the switch and it works fine...both up and down. There seems to be a limit switch or something that knows when something has over extended.
View 3 Replies
I have a 1999 f150. The passenger window rolled down, but will not roll back up. Replaced the motor, just to get the same result. Any good place to start on this? Is there a relay or something i may be overlooking?
View 2 Replies
