Lexus GS 2006-11 :: 2010 GS350 Passenger Front Window Rolled Down By Itself
Oct 2, 2014
I bought my GS new and it has 40K miles now. It is a 2010 GS AWD. Yesterday I get off work, a hot day, I get in the car, started the car, and passenger front window rolled down by it self. I tried to rolled it back up and it would not go up. I shut the car off and re-started and was able to roll it up.
I thought maybe it was the heat. The next day it happened again, but this time while I was driving. There are no funny noises coming from in side the door and no water has ever gotten in there. I also never leave the windows cracked instead I raise the sun roof up for heat to escape. I find this very odd self-operating window. The rest of the windows work just fine.
Battery has never been disconnected. what may be causing this window to operate on its own? a lose wire maybe?
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My driver side window makes a noise when it is being rolled down. About half way down, it sounds like it is rubbing against something. This noise only happens when it's being rolled down, not up. The funny thing is, this noise started happening after I got a sub installed. I doubt it has anything to do with the installation but just wanted to point that out. Could it just be that it is dirty inside? I also have my windows tinted but the noise came way after that.
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I recently notice the front right tire on my GS makes a bearing sound like at 40mph and increases at 55mph. Anything after 60mph is not too bad. I looked at the tire and notice the inner top of the tire is wavy. My brother says the strut is bad. I think not because, the car dose not bounce and strut is dry of fluids. The car has 38K miles on it, alignment was done by dealer at 35K ...
I did rotate the tires front to rear sound went away for a day and started back up again.so I know its not the bearing. Do I need better tires? another alignment? or strut?
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I just finished doing the actuator repair on the passenger lock that was explained on this site. Put everything back together and checked my window. The window rolled down, but nothing for up. The switch on the drivers door would not work the window either. Pulled the switch apart and with my ohm meter was getting power to switch, but no other wires gave me a reading. So I figured it was my switch and went down and bought a new one. Put new switch in nothing. I then tried the drivers door switch and window worked? What to try now. I pulled fuse #7 that is said to be for my windows/locks during all this and all the windows except the passenger worked????
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I just spent about $600 on front Lexus Oem struts, Front Strut mounts and labor to try to cure a knocking sound that developed recently. My 2007 GS350 has 84K miles on it. Figured it was time and I had a 50% off labor coupon from Pepboys so it wasn't bad.
Unfortunately that did not cure the problem so I figure it was the upper control arm, but the whole front end was solid. I decided to take one of the Moog sway bar end links off that I just put in and drive around. The noise was completely gone!! So it appears that I had a defective sway bar end link!!!
So before you guys start swapping out front end parts for a suspension noise which is what I've seen when I searched the forum, start with the cheapest one, the end links. Take out the side that makes the noise and drive around to see if the noise goes away. BTW it is safe to drive with one missing. I was able to drive normally with it off.
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I have a 2008 Gs 350, and I want to change the front of my lights. I was thinking maybe like for the fog lights HID yellow and make the day lights match the head lights. Or make everything match?
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I have a couple of cracks in my front windshield and I'm thinking of replacing it.
A few years back I had the dealership work on the famous creaks and I know they stuffed felt in between the windshield cowl area. Would that need to be redone?
I would request a factory windshield but I'm concerned if it might make the creaking worse or if it would affect the integrity of the car.
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Lately I changed my front brake rotor and the new brake pad. However, When I doing back forward with applying light brake. I can hear "gara gara" noise from the front brake. Sounds like two steel material hiting each other.
Also, there is a different noise comes out when I releasing the brake after local stop. (red light stop or stop sign). I ask the mechanic when I doing the oil change. He checked and said my brake just are fine.
Probably it needs time for the pad break down with the new rotor. I used the Posi ceramic brake pads with the come with shim.
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Well got back home for the weekend and after a 200 mile drive I shut the engine down and step outside and notice fumes comimg from the front of the car. After popping the hood and looking and smelling around. Well I drive to my parents house (30 miles) and notice smoke, I'm angry now and call Lexus to drop it off.
After 2 hours they still haven't figured it out and give me a loaner anyways they did confirm a transmission leak. We'll see what happens Monday. By the way just bought new struts, plugs, K&N filter, Winter tires what a waste. Look for it on classifides. So to date Water pump, Alternator, Valve springs etc, transmission. Odometer is at 103000 now. 2007 GS 350 RWD.
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A couple of months back my driver side window began to make this terrible squeaking noise when rolled up and down. I noticed that the noise is not as bad when it is cooler out and when I run my car through the wash with wax (just an option they have at the carwash place).After some internet research I believe that the problem is with a part of window regulator mechanism.
There were a couple of options available to me:1. Replace window regulator mechanism (great instructions on pelicanparts.com). To do it on my own is about $80 (part cost) and 5-6 hours of work or $600 at the dealer's. 2. Locate the motor of window regulator, open it and clean it. Probably 5-6 hours of work, but $0!!!3. Open the door, clean inside and grease the tracks.
I opened the door and cleaned the glass and tracks – no result! I brought it back to the dealer (car is not under warranty anymore) and they were nice enough to open it again for me and grease the tracks – no result except for marks on my window and the verdict that I need to replace the regulator mechanism….
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I have 2010 GS350 AWD. Tires are Dunlop and have 7000 miles on them and the car has 47k miles. The issue is the rear inner tire are cupping and make roar noise. Car is all stock. I have done alignment twice at the dealer. They are telling me everything is normal. I have personally inspected everything under the car and did not find anything abnormal, no blowing bushing, and no oil coming from struts. I have read there is no camber adjustment in the rear.
What could cause the gs350 AWD this cupping? Only in the rear? Would camber correct such problem?
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I have a 97 xlt fully loaded. Have been noticing once and a while the battery drained enough not to start. Have been attributing it to my son not turning off the dvd player in the back. I was wrong. Went out this evening to pick up company van, and the truck was dead. When i reached in to unlock the door, i accidently pushed on the power window switch and the window rolled out....key was not in the ignition. It quit when I opened the door.
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I have a 2009 Sonata Limited. The passenger side front window has stopped working. Neither switch works. How to troubleshoot?
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Looks like one of the window rollers are greasy. Front passanger side. I cleaned a couple of times and shows up again in the same spot. A mild annoyance...
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The front passenger window on my 2007 Sonata has always been sluggish. Recently it broke (I heard something snap) when I tried to roll it down on a cold day. I decided I want to take a shot at fixing it myself before bringing it in to the mechanic. I've made some progress but I'm having trouble removing the inner door panel where the window regulator mechanism is.
The window can be pushed down or pulled up by hand fairly easily, but there's enough resistance (for now) to hold it in place and keep it from just dropping down into the door.
I removed the main door panel without any problems. The window regulator cables and mechanism are behind a second panel that I'm having trouble removing and I can see through the holes in the inner panel that the window is still attached to the two "lifters".
I haven't been able to find a lot of detailed instructions for this step. I've been following the steps outlined in some this youtube video [URL] ...., but there seems to be something I'm missing when I try to get the panel off.
I have freed the black adhesive around the edge of the panel, and I've removed all the main bolts on the inside of the door, the 3 bolts at the door latch, detached the inner door handle and removed the outer door handle, but I still can't get much movement in the panel to free it. I'm hesitant to tug or pry the panel too hard because I don't want to bend the metal at all and ruin the fit with the door.
Is there any trick to loosening the panel so that it comes out and I can get behind it? Do I need to slide or rotate it, or is it held by any clips similar to the ones that held the main door panel? Most of the resistance seems to be coming from the area to the right of the speaker (between the speaker and where the inside handle to close the door would be). I can try to provide more details if necessary.
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All my windows work, except my front passenger side window. It will go down, but not up from the driver side switch. It works from the passenger side.
I did NOT replace my battery or lose power. It started when I was driving and wanted the window half way down, but it kept going fully up or fully down. I finally got it to where I wanted it to be, but after that i could no longer bring it back all the way up. It can go all the way down, but no longer up.
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Yesterday my passenger front window popped out of it's track. Then when we tried to pop it back in and get it to go back up, it completely popped out and up about 3 inches from the frame of the door. Enough to be able to fit a had through no problem.
I am taking the car in tomorrow to have it looked at and get a quote to fix. From what I've read, it's a super pricey fix. So bummed because I just bought the car about 6 weeks ago (if that) ...
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All of a sudden the rear right passenger window doesn't stay closed, it goes all the way up and then it goes down half way. It doesn't matter which switch I use, the driver's side or the passenger side. All the other windows go up as soon as you toggle the switch automatically up and stay up.
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I rolled up my left rear window a week ago and got a serious pop and crunch from it. I now have taken the time to take it apart and found that the cable has snapped and the carriage is in pieces. I'm not going to bother replacing any of it. To the point.. the motor has a crap load of wires going to it. I would like to get rid of it all together, brace up the rear window(s) and never look back. Is there any reason why I could not just unplug and remove the motor and its control or is there something else running form or through it too?
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Recently had a driver's side window replaced in my 99 GMC Sierra. Also had the regulator and a door handle replaced as they were broken as well, but I knew this going in. Was informed I needed a new master switch and had them order/install.
Today I turned the key on and the window began rolling down on it's own. I hit the switch to stop it, which it did, but only as long as I held the switch down. Now the window is all the way down and will not roll back up. Passenger side window works fine from either switch. Door locks work as well for whatever that's worth.
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I have a 2001 Ford F150 Super Crew. Last year it got really cold (2 degrees) and I went to roll down the driver's side front window to get ice off of my mirror. Something broke and my window fell down into my door. I was able to fish the window out and it rolls up and holds the window in place. It will go down a couple of inches, but when it falls it kinda falls forward and then to the bottom.
I have the panel off again right now because my wife used my truck and forgot about the window and I had to go through the process of getting it out again. So I figure now is a good time to fix it.
What broke and what I need to do to fix it? As I say, it will catch and work fine once I pull the window to a certain height and then it seals just fine as long as I don't use it. I looked at other threads and none seemed to fit exactly what mine is doing.
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