Ford Excursion :: Rear Brake Caliper Line Installation?
Dec 1, 2012
Routine maintenance gone wrong.
Installing rear brake line and failed to put on the rear washer and stripped out the bolt hole mostly. Will still unscrew and screw back in but not enough to stop a slow drip. Is there an easy repair or time for a new caliper? Thread tape is not brake fluid resistent.
If no repair, what brand should I go with? Are they all similar or MC better? Can get Fenco for $50 and MC for $100. A1 Cardone and ACD for about $75.
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Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
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I've had an intermittent rattle for a bit on front drivers side. Checked sway bar links and they are good. I grabbed the caliper and it actually rattles at the slides. I replaced the slides last week on the front end and still rattles. Passenger side is good, but drivers isn't. How to address this?
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Well I have my new 8.5x20 trailer on order that has electric brakes and I'm looking to install a brake controller. I don't like how cheesy all the aftermarket ones look and love fords factory controller and upfitter switches. Looking for info on swapping these in the excursions and had it working? I've looked on the net for this mod and came up with nothing.
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How to replace a front brake line? I am having trouble getting mine off of the frame.
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I picked up an 02 ex value xlt with out the rear heat i was wondering if any of you have installed it in a truck that never had it. i work at a scrap yard as a mechanic and will hopefully have a truck come in with the parts i need, what it all entails. Any headliner out for some odd reason maybe you could snap a photo of the piping.
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I am considering converting my Ex to a dually. I have located a 2006 dually rearend with the same gears as my rear. My Ex is a 2004 4X4 so I am interested in how easy the physical installation would be to put the 2006 rear in a 2004 Ex.
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About a year ago, I had my right rear brake caliper lock up on my F350 dually. The shop said it can happen and replaced both rear calipers. Last week I started to hear something from the rear and within less than a a few days, before I could get to a shop the noise increased and when I looked the rotor had been gouged on the right rear.
I cannot see the left rear rotor to compare as the wheels don't line up on that side to see through. So my question is this. Could it be the caliper failure was a symptom and not the cause. Maybe a proportion valve or something that could affect the pressure on that one wheel.
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I have a 2000 ex v10 4x4 the brake line that goes from the front to the back has a hole in it and is rusted out. I need the part number?
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I am not sure if it is the high pressure or low pressure line. The line had rubbed on the frame and it wore a hole in the line. I want to get this fixed and wondered any remedies or if I need to replace the whole line. Someone said I could take it to a radiator shop and they could repair the line???
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one of my f350 super duties has had the right rear brake caliper and slider replaced 4 times in less than a year. it has just gone for the fourth time today. i called ford who, after a long phone call, said it could be the metering valve. i have looked everywhere for this valve.....no luck. so i called them back and he said it was part of the HCU. after a few minutes, he finally told me it was also called the ABS module.
my question is..........can i just replace this metering valve or do i have to replace the whole unit?
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So I finally got my truck running on sunday and I come home after work yesterday and my driveway is covered in coolant. the line that goes to the rear had split in the middle and also in the rear?!? Where to get a replacement. I was thinking about just cutting out the messed up section and hose clamping some heater hose in its place?
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Since I bought this '05 Ex, I have had a driveline vibration. Not bad mind you... just barely noticeable when I let off the gas going 50+ mph. I had my local Ford dealer change the Ujoints and it worked a little.
I just installed Firestone Air Bags on the rear axle. I put 20 lbs. of pressure in them and it raised the rear exactly 1 inch (I measured before and after). After the air bags were in and pressurized and the rear lifted 1 inch, I took it for a drive. WOW! The driveline vibration is completely gone. Smooth as glass.
Question that I need opinions on from those who have more experience with an Ex than I do: Did my rear springs sag enough to cause a driveline vibration? And did the lifting of 1 inch put it BACK to stock height so that the driveline is now correct?
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I have a 2003 Ex with the 7.3. There is a leak in the rear coolant line just in front of the rear right tire. Is there any way to bypass the rear heater under the hood?
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I replaced my warped front brake rotors a couple thousand miles ago and all was fine but when I went to swap over to my snow tires, I can see that the outer part of the rotor has been rubbing on the caliper bracket. This is happening on both front rotors. Could my new rotors be too thick or something?
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My caliper gets seized when I disengage the emergency brake.
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I have a 2007 Prius gen II with 50,000 miles on it. I took it for MOT ministry of transport annual test and it failed on rear brakes. The near side puled 82kg the off side puled 242kg I puled the pads and copper slipped the pads and sliders the piston pushed bake with ease reassembled them and re tested them witch increased the near side by 5kg. How did you rectify it.
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So I had a stuck caliper on the driver rear side. I pushed the piston back and checked everything to make sure all was in working order. After some though and reading about the calipers getting stuck which old brake lines, I decided to upgrade the line with the Russell stainless steal lines.
I got all the lines put in but I seem to have fluid leaking on the passenger side fitting which I can't seem to get to stop. I put the old line back in but it is still leaking. I am not sure what I need to do or check to get it to stop. It seems to be leaking from the thread area. I checked the fittings and they don't look cross threaded so I don't understand why it may be happening.
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I am replacing the rear steel brake lines and I have a bit of a mystery...when the lines come off the wheels, I see them going over the pineapple and it LOOKS like it's just coming down the other side into the other wheel. That should be impossible, right? How would it go about getting brake fluid into the system?
I can't see on top of the pineapple, so I don't exactly know whats going on up there. I don't see any hydraulic hose coming from the top of the pineapple. I'm currently clueless as to how the rear brake lines fit together.
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I have a leak from the rear driver caliper, it seems to come from behind the bolts that hold the emergency brake to the caliper (I had my wife push the pedal repeatedly so I could find the issue). I haven't been able to remove the retaining bolts (the allen head bolt doesn't want to play) to see what the issue might be.
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When I lost the rear brakes due to a rusted line, naturally the ABS light came on. Will it automatically reset when everything is repaired and working or is there something else that needs to be done?
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