So I finally got my truck running on sunday and I come home after work yesterday and my driveway is covered in coolant. the line that goes to the rear had split in the middle and also in the rear?!? Where to get a replacement. I was thinking about just cutting out the messed up section and hose clamping some heater hose in its place?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2003 Ex with the 7.3. There is a leak in the rear coolant line just in front of the rear right tire. Is there any way to bypass the rear heater under the hood?
View 1 RepliesOn my 2003 Excursion 7.3L, I notticed I'm leaking what I think is coolant from the passenger side rear hard line by the front spring hanger. I haven't pealed the plastic loom away yet, but I did see the loom is chaffed near the spring hanger. What lines are the ones that carry coolant, and can I just cut the hard lines and replace with a section of rubber hose?
View 3 RepliesI just purchased an 97 E350 (15 Passenger) and I notice that the two rear heater lines (along the driver side) are rotted and is showing sign of minor leakage. Can I simply replace them with rubber heater hoses or do I need to get the factory heater lines?
View 6 RepliesI am not sure if it is the high pressure or low pressure line. The line had rubbed on the frame and it wore a hole in the line. I want to get this fixed and wondered any remedies or if I need to replace the whole line. Someone said I could take it to a radiator shop and they could repair the line???
View 14 RepliesRoutine maintenance gone wrong.
Installing rear brake line and failed to put on the rear washer and stripped out the bolt hole mostly. Will still unscrew and screw back in but not enough to stop a slow drip. Is there an easy repair or time for a new caliper? Thread tape is not brake fluid resistent.
If no repair, what brand should I go with? Are they all similar or MC better? Can get Fenco for $50 and MC for $100. A1 Cardone and ACD for about $75.
Since I bought this '05 Ex, I have had a driveline vibration. Not bad mind you... just barely noticeable when I let off the gas going 50+ mph. I had my local Ford dealer change the Ujoints and it worked a little.
I just installed Firestone Air Bags on the rear axle. I put 20 lbs. of pressure in them and it raised the rear exactly 1 inch (I measured before and after). After the air bags were in and pressurized and the rear lifted 1 inch, I took it for a drive. WOW! The driveline vibration is completely gone. Smooth as glass.
Question that I need opinions on from those who have more experience with an Ex than I do: Did my rear springs sag enough to cause a driveline vibration? And did the lifting of 1 inch put it BACK to stock height so that the driveline is now correct?
Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
I have a problem today i took off the coolant line, air line, and the fuel line and when i put them back on i put the coolant line into the air line accidentally and the air line in the coolant . i started the car thinking it was normal. the car started and then when i started to back up the car turned off so i knew i screwed up the lines then i found online the right way how the lines should go put them the right way and the car just cranks in doesn't start up.
View 3 RepliesWell It has been an expensive month for my Ex. New starter, Then a miss-fire. I ended up replacing all 10 plugs, and all 10 coils and I got ford coils.
Today I got in it, hit the ignition. It started for a split second and stalled. Went to go fire it up and well, its turning over faster then usual like its not getting any fuel or something. Now I am at the mercy of a local town shop, because the tow to the shop I run is about 450.00. I am thinking its the fuel pump... But we will know shortly.
I'm 650 miles from home in WV and the truck overheated and I saw coolant leaking from the area above the passenger side rear tire.
View 9 RepliesRecently I had a radiator hose split while traveling. The EOT got up to 250 degrees before I could pull over and stop the truck. I flushed the cooling system with water, replaced the thermostat, and added Ford Gold coolant as per the recommendations in the Tech folder. My oil temps are higher now than prior to this incident. Unloaded on a flat road my deltas are about 10 to 12 degrees @ 60 mph.
My water temp will stay around 190 to 195 degrees while my EOT have reached 212-215. I pulled a small utility trailer and saw a delta of 17 degrees this was at about 75 mph. Typically unloaded I would only see a delta of about 8 degrees and this was at 80mph. My question is do you think a EOT of 250 would burn the oil, I had Shell Rotella T5 5W40 in the engine. Would it be possible that the oil cooler is partially plugged from this temp?
My first 2001 Excursion when I bot it had a 124K on it..We took off on a trip to Colorado from OKC and noticed the Cruise didn't work replaced the Deactivation switch with one from Advanced Auto it worked for a couple days. We went to get on to the Interstate and it worked for a split second and then stopped I would try to set the Cruise and the Horn would honk...
So I put it in the shop for two days he changed out the switches in The steering wheel,Which the off & on kind of sticks, Changed out the Deactivation switch on the master cylinder checked all the fuses Lights & Servo. The mechanic could not figure it out...So I brought it home and when I run the self diagnostic and I get as far as holding the off button and turning it to on and it blinks once... press the On button & nothing...I have been working on this for the last two days..
The middle a/c is not working and to clarify my front top display is out (I took down the display and the little chips appear to need to be re-seated or soldered) so I don't know if that is playing into the whole scheme.
Right now the front a/c works, rear back works on floor, but the middle does not blow at all. I have read several posts the mention a TMX(not sure if that is it)? also mention are flapper doors (?) directional doors(?).
Had the EGR delete done (and because mine is an 05 my engine light stays on - yeah) and the SCT computer and oil cooler are next. Also replaced all the injectors and performance has greatly improved.
2014 fx4 6.2. Had a coolant leak. Brought to dealer for warranty work. Found a leak in middle lower tube area. Said they replaced radiator part # BL3Z-8005-D. It sure looks like my old radiator still under the hood complete with squished bugs. Am I missing something?
View 2 RepliesMy tail light. The middle wire broke I was thinking of soldering it together?
Is this part specific to the Excursions or can I go to the junk yard and get it from other Fords?
My third row gets used once in a blue moon. Usually the first two rows are enough. I have captains chairs but when I put the drivers seat all the way back it doesn't leave the middle row passenger much foot space, especially for how large the truck is. I've thought about buying a set of eBay sliders and putting them between the second row seat frame and the floor. That way I could keep all the factory features like the flip and fold, but still slide them rearward a few inches. I'm not sure I'll ever get around to it but I have had it on my mind a while.
View 12 RepliesThe wife and I were driving back to Sacramento yesterday. It was pretty hot around 95 when we left Stonyford, CA after a day of trail riding with our dirt bikes. From the staging area to the freeway, the distance was about 40 miles of slow twisty roads. We average around 30-45 miles per hour with full AC running. Once we got to the freeway and drove about 20 miles, we pulled to a McDonalds at which point I noticed a weird smell and smoke coming from under the hood. We opened the hood and notices smoke coming from the middle of the engine. I also noticed coolant leaking from under the engine. I waited an hour and then pour about 3 gallons of concentrate coolant back into the system. It seems to stopped leaking. We drove another 45 miles to home. Coolant hasn't leaked. I can't take this truck out until I figure this out and fix it.
View 8 RepliesAny trick? I folded down the larger (driver's side) middle seat to get a large payload in...now it won't pop back up...no matter how much lever pushing and seat-yanking I do. It's a 2001 Limited.
View 14 Replies2003 Ex, EB, bench style middle row. I have owned less than a year.
Purchased with a broken latch assembly the drivers side middle row...promptly replaced for $70. Today, it is broke again, less than a year. I am going to do some more investigating as to HOW this happened TWICE.
Chipped, broken housing on their middle latch assembly? It breaks the black part first, which holds the guts in alignment....once the black part slips down or up to far...the guts do not function.
I noticed that my rear seats, right passenger side (60%) split, when I grab bottom of it, it feels like it is very loose. Like it is not latched. I folded the seats down and put them up again with more force but it is still loose.
04 TUAREG , V6, PREM II, NAV, XENON, Ais Suspension.....