Ford Excursion :: Vibrations When Going More Than 35 Or So
Jun 8, 2016
A few weeks ago I hit a large pothole while going around a slight curve at about 55 mph. I heard a loud pop and the truck jumped to the left. About a week later I starting noticing some vibrations. It happens when I'm going more then 35 or so and when I hit a bump or unsmooth surface and it will keep vibrating until I hit another bump, the other way to make it stop is to slow down to less then 20. I can feel the vibration pulsing less as I slow down utility it stops meaning it's definitely speed related not engine related.
So I took it to the shop. The found the passenger side front (the part that hit the pothole) shock was leaking, upper ball joint was toast (a lot of play) and the outer tie rod was loose (not as bad as the ball joint but bad enough). And the bump stop I installed about 7 or 8 months ago was gone.
I picked up the Ex yesterday after having everything replaced (did the lower ball joint as well, I figured might as well once it's all taken apart). While driving today, the video ration is still there. So I pulled into the nearest gas station and took a look at the front end. I noticed the driver side hub is still locked (even though it's on auto, probably have a leak in the vacuum line somewhere). So I pulled both auto hubs just for the heck of it and kept on driving. Now I barely feel the vibration.
So the question is, is my front differential causing the vibration? I don't believe it's the hubs, when it was at the shop I personally (and the mechanic) shook the wheels right and left and up and down and besides for the play in passenger side wheel from the ball joint, everything else seemed tight. I recently did the u joint on the same wheel and the stabilizer bar bushings. This is my work vehicle so when it really slows me down when it's in the shop.
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Continuing to find little easter eggs with my new to me 01 v10 excursion.
This issue is a bad vibration that feels like it's coming from the middle of the truck. It starts when I hit a bump and usually goes away when I hit another, but not always. At first I thought it was the road, then the transmission, but now with it starting when I hit a bump, I'm thinking a U-Joint on the driveshaft.
I considered the front axle u-joints but it doesn't matter which wheel I hit the bump with, be it a pot hole or man hole cover or seam in the road.
I'm not sure where to start. I'm doing the trans flush tomorrow and dropping the transfer case to see where that's leaking, so I'll be under there to try and figure it out.
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The truck, 2001 X, 7.3l diesel 4x4, with a couple of enhancements. (Link to original post of truck... [URL] ... )
Here is the issue, on this mornings drive to work the front end started to make a lot of noise. The noise (which was minimal) was originally thought to be caused by a front wheel bearing that was just replaced, Today it got really loud, and the steering wheel started to shake as well.
Pulled over, disengaged the hubs and the noise and vibrations went away. First thought would be that the U-joints need to be checked and possibly/probably replaced. That would be the simple solution. However, if it is not the u-joints, what else could it be?? Issue with the front differential???
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I have posted several times about my 03 Ex and it's driveline vibes- mainly highway speed and when slightly on the gas... Took it to a local 4 wheel drive shop that specializes in lifts. They jacked it up and I ran the X up to highway speed with the rear in the air. It was amazing how rough it is, even at 55mph. I hardly feel it in the vehicle at that speed while driving.
Anyway, they felt the vibration but where it is coming from. They said pinion angle looked fine and since I have a retubed driveshaft and rebuilt rear, they ruled that out. The owner has an 04 with a 6 or 8" lift and 37's and seems to know about Excursions.
I then took it to the local Ford dealer and had the service manager drive it. He strongly feels it is gear mesh with the ring and pinion. I am not totally convinced as the rear is quiet, gear wise. For that matter, my slip yoke has quite a bit of torsional slop, likely as much as the backlash on the ring and pinion but the driveshaft shop said that it is acceptable.
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my 2006 f150 shutters or vibrates when it downshifts from overdrive
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Early 04 f three50 (kids thought it would be funny to take the three key off keyboard) with a bad vibration once over 60 mph. Thought it was carrier bearing which was worn but i still replaced it. The u-joints are tight. Not sure where to go next. It is a long bed but these arent normal vibrations. Tires are fine .
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Lifting 09-13 F-150 with the two piece drive shaft. I am getting a lot of vibrations at highway speeds(55mph or higher). I have a Pro Comp 6 inch lift that was installed while I was stationed in Alaska. I have the drive shaft spacer that goes on the drive shaft at the pinion. I also have a carrier bearing drop kit from BDS that I am currently experimenting with (trying to find the sweet spot). I am at a loss though because my truck is no longer fun to drive. I drive an hour to work one way and it blows that my truck feels as though it will rattle apart. I have tried doing all the research that I can find about this issue.
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Okay I'm also having issues with vibrations on the floor board. I replaced the carrier bearing last week and not sure if correctly done or maybe I didn't get the splines in the exact order they came out in but the vibration is still there if not worse. I was thinking I could order a new rear drive shaft for around 350.00? would it matter how it was installed?
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My 1998 Ford Expedition XLT with V8 5.4L engine has been having issues for about six months. It first started off with a strong gasoline and burnt rubber smell coming from the front of the car within a few minutes of starting the engine. Later, the whole car began vibrating and would intensely shudder every once in a while when idling. The car doesn't accelerate well from a standstill. The RPM will climb up to 3000-4000 while going from 0 MPH to 10 MPH, then it will lurch forward a bit and it pick up a little more speed. It struggles again around 15 MPH until it hit 20 MPH when it will lurch again and pick up normal acceleration. Once I try to go 40 MPH or more, the whole will start shuddering loudly and still struggles with maintaining speed. I have not attempted to drive over 50 MPH.
The best acceleration I can get is when I take 30-45 seconds to slowly press the gas pedal and work my way up to the speed I want.I was also following my father in another car while he drove the Expedition and on the highway, I saw sparks come out from the back of the Expedition's undercarriage when it climbed up an overpass. When driving over roads that aren't smooth, or when I accelerate, there is a sound from the back of the car like jangling chains or metal rods. It still makes the sound while the gas pedal isn't pressed or the gear is in neutral, so I think there is something, but have not seen anything underneath that could jangle around. While looking underneath, I saw that that some areas looked rusty, but not cracked. There is also a black piece under the engine that looked like it was made of plastic. It looked wet and oily and had a 2-3 inch opening in the center. I feel that there was supposed to be some sort of cover there.I now only drive it when it's unavoidable, usually once a week or less, and usually distances of 5 miles or less.I think the problem is with the use of fuel in the engine (fuel gauge fluctuates all the time, especially while driving on hills).
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'94 Ranger with aluminum wheels.
I have problems with slow leaks and vibrations from multiple wheels. Both problems have persisted through multiple tire changes over the years. The same shop has always done the tire changes and they tell me they've been balancing the wheels and cleaning the inner rims. The vibration went away after putting on my B2 wheels. Then swapping the rears back to the ranger wheels, 2 at a time, the vibration was back for both test drives (hence vibrations from multiple wheels).
The wheels are badly corroded at the rims and valve stems which leads me to believe it's the wheels themselves that are causing the leaks. I haven't heard of excessively old wheels causing vibrations though which is why I ask. I will likely be buying some craigslist or junkyard replacement wheels but wanted to "check in" first.
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I have been experiencing some odd noises/wiggles/vibrations/growling/etc.... lately. I am pretty sure it's on the left (driver's side), but I can't seem to pin it down to front or rear. I am pretty sure my front brakes are trashed, as the inner pads were paper thin a month ago, and I haven't had time to change them yet ( new pads, rotors, calipers are already in my closet waiting to go on).
I went on a 100 mile drive the other day, and on the way down, and then coming home yesterday, the truck felt and sounded real weird. It wandered and had the noises described above. I jacked up the rear to check if I had bad axle bearings or something. Here's where I start to freak out. With the trans in gear,(6spd manual) both wheels off the ground, I can still turn the rear wheels. That shouldn't happen, right? Put the trans in neutral and turning the tires will turn the driveshaft. Trans in gear, the tires will turn free. There does seem to be a bit of "slop" when switching direction of rotation.
With the wheels off the ground, I ran the truck, in 1st and 2nd gear. It seems to turn the driver side faster, with the passenger barely turning.
For the time being, the rear axle is certainly still pushing the truck forward under power. With the wheels on the ground, truck on a hill, putting the trans in gear will stop the truck from rolling. This doesn't seem right? By the way, it is an "open" rear ( no limited slip). Between work and weather, I can't really do anything with it until the weekend. I just have to hope it holds up for the rest of the week, and a few hundred miles.
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I have a 1999 f350, long bed, crew cab, 4wd, dually, v10, 107k miles
I'm certain my propellor shaft u-joints are shot, theres tons of play and I see rust everywhere.
I have been dealing with a vibration problem for a while now, See [URL] .....
I currently am using a pro comp shim kit and the vibration has greatly improved, however shimming different heights did not cure the problem. I'm currently shimmerd 7/8"
First question is when in drive, with hubs on AUTO can my propellor shaft spin fast enough at 70-75 mph to cause a vibration?
Second, can I drive without my front propellor shaft, with out causing harm? For a brief update to above mentioned post, I've had replaced the following:
Six new tires twice! Currently 235/85/16 general grabber load E
Rear pads and rotors
Mechanic opened pumpkin to examine rear pinion bearing (said was fine, no play)
All shock absorbers
Front calipers
Alignment
Continually adjusting carrier bearing height
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My 05 F150 with 107k miles becomes increasingly noisy.... From speeds about 15mph up to 50mph there is a humming noise from the front wheels, clearly audible during coast. It sounds almost like tire noise, low frequency with a clear tone (not rumble) and gets worse in LH turns / better in RH turns. The frequency follows the speed.
I also can feel vibrations in the steering wheel. It's not the tires, I changed them without any impact. Checked wheel bearing play - seems OK. The locking hubs are stuck in locked position, with quite some play between the hub and the driveshaft at the RH front wheel (have not checked the LH front wheel yet), seems weird...
Where should I start to look, - wheel bearings or locking hubs? And more important, we plan a 1500 mls trip to Germany - do I dare to drive the truck? What is the worst thing that could happen if wheel bearing or locking hub?
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I have a rough chatter noise coming from the rear end. It happens when starting off up till about 25mph. It rattles the cab a little and sounds real rough. It also happens when turning up hill, causes lots of vibrations in the cab. Some have mentioned it could be the rear differential needing a friction modifier or the u-joints needs some special lube? Its an 05 F150 with 62K miles.
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I have a 2013 f350 4x4 diesel. I bought used with 80,000km on it. Started getting a bad vibration in the steering wheel around 80km/h. went too ford and replaced the track bar ball joint and steering stabilizer. After that the truck drove perfect. The next day I went and put on my new rims and tires (used tires) 20" rims with 35x12.5 r20 amp m/t tires. They used beads too balance tires. I left the tire shop and the wobble was back, I went right back too the tire shop and they took the tires and rims off too inspect more and found that one tire had kind of a flat spot and uneven wear.
So they put it on the back as too take away a little bit of the vibration, idea is too wear down that bad tire till the flat spot is gone, when I'm driving it at highway speeds it wobbles a little bit and those goes away and then comes back every 20 seconds or so, will this go away or do I need too replace that tire, buddy of mine told me too do a little burnout and maybe even out the tire a little bit but amazingly that didn't work...or could something else be wrong? Factory tires were 275/65/r20 That I had on before. Also the worst vibration is at 80km an hour but like i said it comes and goes. Will it get better?
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4450 - Literature Program 09L02: Customer Maintenance Reminder
Some owners of certain F-Super Duty 250/350 4x4 vehicles have experienced severe steering and front wheel vibrations and oscillations after traveling over a bump or dip in the road. As a result of a study with NHTSA regarding shimmy, Ford sent a Customer Maintenance Reminder letter to owners back in March of 2009. In addition, Ford agreed to send reminder letter to owners.
Although there is no service action required by the dealer, customers will be informed if after setting the tire pressures on their truck to the Ford specified levels, they believe the vehicle needs additional service, to contact their local Ford dealer. Letters will be mailed starting the week of 12/09/13 and may result in increased customer service inquiries.
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I started with removing the two bolts that hold the carrier bearing to the crossmember that attaches on each side of the frame, well the clip that basically would hold the "nut part" of the bolt on the top side sheared on both of them due to salt+calcium chloride.
It felt like there was a 6 point head up there so I tried fitting wrenches and sockets up on the other side, I finally got a good hold with an 11/16" wrench but it just kept rounding more and more. Normally I would just torch the heads off but the gas tank is right next to it.
Any tips for getting the carrier bearing bolts out now? I don't care if I destroy it they're easy to replace. Also I'm typing this from my phone so Incase my sig doesn't show this is on my 02 f250 crew short bed 4x4
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I am facing some weird problem of vibrations at 75-80 mph band.
I had steeles on my gen 6 camry.Went to americas tires & bought 4 rims with tires kinda package deal.They installed them.I love my wheels. Now,I noticed some vibrations at 40mph and 75 mph & went back to americas tire & happily did a free balancing for me.
Happy about this the next day while going to work I noticed the viberations at 40mph has gone but the one's at 75mph were still there. Took the car to americas tire & he said they did not install hub rings thats why the viberations at 75mpg.He put hub rings on all 4 wheels. But was disappointed to still feel the vibration at 75 mph.
So,took the car again to americas tire,they again did the balance & the guy told me the rear right tire has like some 9 ounce of weight difference which cannot be corrected by adding weights to the rims so will need to change the tire.Well he did that & was very sure that the vibrations wont be there again.
Thinking finally it would be over I took it for test drive & to my utter disappointment still had the vibrations. I did not feel any vibrations with my oem steelies at this speed.
About the nature of vibrations: it makes the steering wheel,brakes & the car vibrate I think in the front, the vibrations are more prominent at the steering wheel & brakes.
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I'm still having vibrations at 75+ MPH. It's not the wheels, and the vibe went away when I removed the prop shaft, and came right back when put back in.I have replaced the CV joint and center bearing on the shaft, and the flex discs don't look bad.
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I bought a set of stop tech rotors drilled and slotted. After having them on for about 5k miles I'm getting vibrations when I'm slowing down so I'm guessing they are warped already. Any better crossed drilled rotor for a decent price that won't end up like the stop tech rotors.
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I have real vibrations when braking. What could be the cause? I think its a warped rotor. Also.. What are your opinions on cross drilled rotors. I hear they are good with disapating heat but i heard they wear down break pads quickly.
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