Ford - Expedition :: 2000 - Coolant Loss About 1 - 2 Quarts Daily
May 17, 2011
I had my SUV (2000 Ford Expedition) tuned up. I'm losing about 1-2 quarts of coolant every couple of days. While I was having the tune up done, I asked the mech to try to find where the coolant is going. He couldn't. He did say that they'd pumped the system up to 18 lbs (it's got a 16 lb cap) and it held for 45 minutes, so I'm a little (little-little) less afraid that it's my head gasket. Questions are these:
1. Could my 16 lb cap be at fault? It got pretty gunky when I mixed the coolants (see my post - Don't cross the streams).
2. Could my rear heat exchanger be leaking and where would the coolant come out? It's got rear air and heat that's controllable form the second seat.
I never see water on the ground or dripping. No white exhaust to detect. Doesn't run rough at all at startup. In other words, none of the traditional head gasket indicators.
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My mate has bought a mk4 golf and it is loosing coolant. There is no obvious signs of a water leak the car starts fine, goes up to temperature fine, only time the temperature rises is when the car has to work harder. (going up hill) then returns to normal.
Left the car today for a couple of hours and went to check the coolant level and the system was still under pressure when opening the expansion bottle top. There is signs of rusty water around the cars panels where the expansion tank is located. Previous owner said that it used 4 litres of water on a 330 mile round trip. previous owner said it could be the head gasket but there is no cream on oil filler cap.
There is no sign of water leaking from the heater matrix inside the car.
"2000" y reg mk4 golf 115bhp 1.9 gt tdi all standard
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My buddy has been telling me that his 2000 dodge Dakota v8 sport is burning 4 quarts of oil a day. Note that he only drives roughly 25 miles a day. The truck is claimed to have no oil leak whatsoever and this happens around 2500 miles after every oil change. I find it very hard to believe.
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To my surprise, I found coolant seeping out around a fuel injector. My guess that this indicates an issue with the gasket and it needs to be replaced. I hope this is not expensive and is replaceable if you can follow instructions. So I am looking for suggestion to test and confirm if this is the issue and procedures to complete the repair. I have general basic tools (sockets, wrenches, and screwdrivers)My expedition has over 200K miles. A gas drinking elephant at 13 miles /gal but has been extremely reliable. I am also considering replacing her with something less thirsty.
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I have a 1999 Ford Expedition. A couple of days ago The engine started losing coolant as soon as the engine cooled. I replaced the coolant only to lose it again when the engine cooled. I was told that it is more likely the intake manifold gaskets leaking. It seems they are right. What is the cost to repair if I take it to a mechanic?
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
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On my 2000 E.B. I have NO A/C at all. All vents on the dash, regardless of vent, floor, defrost, ETC all blow hot air, even with the A/C on Max A/C. Also, all the rear vents for the rear HVC blow WARM air as well. I have no A/C in the back either. I don't hear any flopping around under the dash going down the road and I have checked the A/C compressor with the unit on Max A/C and the clutch appears to be engaged and the compressor appears to be operating normally.
I have NOT YET checked the A/C lines or dryer to see if they get cold, I will check that tonight, but I expect them to be getting cold because the Compressor does not cycle on and off, it stays running pretty much all the time. It clicks off once and again, but not very often at all (such as the case would be if the system was low on freon).
So, if the A/C lines are getting cold (if they are not, I will know my problem is compressor related, likely anyway), what this problem could be? From what I've read, if the Front blows hot, yet the rear blows cold, it's a blend door actuator or broken blend door, but that is not my problem. I have no A/C at all, everything blows hot.
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I started feeling a slightly rough idle three days ago and yesterday the check engine light illuminated. When we read the OBD, it indicated a Cyl #1 misfire. Question is this. Can I replace a single coil pack (1/cyl), or do I ahve to replace all 8 as a set and why? 2000 Ford Expedition 5.4 L cyl misfire.....
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I'm chasing a SES light on my mothers expedition. It had bank 1/2 lean and the 4 o2 sensor codes. So I put a fuel pressure gauge on it. At idle it fluctuated between 31-35 (rose and fell with a rough idle) as engine rise/falls. Rev it up to 15-1700 an pressure falls to 29-30, unplug the regulator and it pegs at 40 no matter idle-2000 rpm... does those numbers sound right?
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When i turn my heater on, the ac come on instead. It does not matter what position any of the dials are on as soon as I turn the blower on the ac comes on. I do not see anything obviously wrong with the controls. All turn as they should nothing is striped. I have the 3 dial control setup no auto heater controls at all. and nothing is digital.
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2000 Expedition. If speeds are under 40 mph and the air temp is above 85, my AC does not seem to work well. On the highway, it seems to work very well. Recently replaced with no change in performance:
Fan clutch
Water pump
Radiator
I've also degreased and hosed out the condenser. The AC system has been checked (by a friend with a set of gauges- but is not a professional) and a small amount of refrigerant was added. Still no improvement. Any obvious other things to check?
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Having a problem with my 2000 Expedition AWD/4WD. When I'm braking to a stop, there's a metallic clicking coming from my LR wheel. Doesn't matter if brakes are applied or it's rolling free. Starts at about 8 mph and stops at around 2-3. Had a broken parking brake cable, but clicking is still there after replacement. What's next? Wheel speed sensor, perhaps?
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Having a real headache with my Expedition. After doing short journey's will park up the car, come back and it won't start. The dashboard lights are on everything seems ok but the engine won't even turnover. Leave it for about 45mins+, it stars immediately. The mornings are no problem at all it starts first turn.
It is now going into the Ford Dealers for the 3rd time, 1st they cut me new keys was fine for 5days problem returned, 2nd they replaced a new ground cable was great for 22days then same old problem returned. They ran a diagnostic test and everything was working fine.
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I have a 2005 Ford focus. I haven't even had it 8,000 miles. THREE times it has overheated, and I've had to replace over a gallon of coolant. The first two times, the cause was a leaky 'vacuum' cap. The third time it was a different cap that was leaking. This radiator has two (that I know of) unused ports on it. A 3/8" one on the top left, and a 5/8" one on the bottom left. They are capped off with little rubber vacuum caps, which are quite simple to replace. But, these things don't last long before they start to weather and crack and leak. I just replaced them after 2,000 miles (before they started to leak), and they're already cracked. But oddly, only on the OUTSIDE. Inside they're still smooth and unbroken.
I've asked for advice at auto parts stores, mechanics, and even at a radiator shop. They all say they've never heard anything like this before?! I just got some silicone vacuum caps which are specifically rated for high temps, but they're so thin I'm not sure I wanna install them.
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2000 Expedition AWD, 4.6l ... 150K on car, 50K on trans, 150k on transfer case and most else.
The problem is, under load, there is a intermittent bearing vibration noise...it sounds like a roller bearing that has too much tolerance so it vibrates in and out under acceleration. You can feel it in the gas pedal and chassis, you can hear it, and it robs a little power when the sound it pronounced. The sound is 10x worst when towing my 6000lb boat. Gear doesn't seem to matter, but it is hard to make it happen in 3rd gear.
Diagnostics so far:
-Can't reproduce sound on rack or out of gear
-Stethoscoped all accessories - good
-added Lucas oil additive to engine oil - no change
-added Duralube high mileage goop to trans - no change/slight change?
-Aamco said it was transfer case, tear down and inspection revealed nothing, they said it was mostly pristine for a car with 150K on it.
-Inspected U-joints - all tight
The duralube in the transmission may have made a slight difference in the frequency of the sound...but it could be my imagination, it wasn't significant enough a change to be determinate.
I think I could isolate the issue with a diagnostic tool that doesn't exist as far as I know...it would be a handheld device with 4 magnetic mic sensors you could stick in various locations and watch the waveform output on the handheld... you would simply move the mic's around until you got the highest amplitude on the readout.
At this point the only thing I can think of:
-Aamco missed something
-Main bearings, cam bearings, or possibly oil pump
-Transmission bearing (Aamco says "NOT")
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OK. I'm getting a P301 code on the OBD in my 2000 Expedition (5.4 L). Already replaced plugs x 8, coils x 8, & fuel injectors. Still have rough idle when it starts up, usually for a few minutes & then it's mostly OK. Maybe a small rumble now & then when @ a red light, etc. Replacing fuel filter & all 4 o2 sensors tomorrow.
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My 94 ford escort LX 1.9L is currently suffering from coolant loss. However I have not seen any drips anywhere from under the hood and the floor mats in car seem to be dry. The overflow tank is always full to fill line but after I drive it for a day after refilling the radiator back up cause its half empty for some strange reason and then come home for the day and the next morning its half empty again.
As a side note when I first start the car it runs fine but then I eventually notice a strange odor that smells like burning coolant and something else mixed to it thru the vents in the car even without heater on. The Radiator cap has replaced due to the original was leaking out coolant from under the seal and the heater works fine. I've have however been thinking lately that maybe there is leak some where in-between the firewall and heater core possibly but the floor carpet seems to be dry.
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I was having an issue with coolant loss and white smoke from tailpipe. Was told it was likely intake leak vs headgaskets. Changed intake gaskets, fixed the issue for a day then it started just dumping coolant from every available place in the exhaust system. Was draining a full collant bottle in about 2 minutes. Was also checking for exhaust in the coolant with the tube and blue liquid which it stayed blue. Had previously done a degas pressure test and it passed. The only test I hadn't performed was compression test which all the cylinders output was lowest 160 to the highest about 185. Did not perform a wet compression test as I was mainly looking for base compression and consistency.
Not sure what healthy is on these vehicles but considering they were all running pretty close I call it good. Also it idles just as smooth. Pulled intake a 2nd time and rechecked my previous work. Everything looked fine so I put it back together. Ran smoke free for about 50 miles now I'm back to smoke after it sits a bit but it clears up after a short drive. What am I missing? I will note that I had a small coolant leak from drivers side rear of engine that I noticed while it was parked in the shop. I'm assuming that would be the oil cooler? But oil is clean so it's not mixing. What other avenues on these engines can coolant make it into the exhaust? Drives perfect with no power loss.
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I have a 00 expedition 4wheel drive eddie bauer. 100k miles. New tires, recent alignment, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends, recent suspension change over to passive system with new shocks. Also must note I have "newer" front wheel bearings but they were from advance auto and not the suggested Moog ones.
I have a loud clicking noise at slow speeds. def sounds like its coming from the front area. Speeds up and slows down with acceleration. brakes do not change noise other than slow it down with tires. The truck also vibrates on the highway. I notice the tires are wearing (cupping)
Is it the cheap wheel bearings? what is the best way to test for bad wheel bearings? i think they are under warranty if I can find the receipt. Anything else i should test? can it be c/v joints or something?
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I have an 1998 F150 4.6L V8 that is using coolant. I recently replaced the radiator because of a leak in the lower right side. Vehicle has about 190000 miles on it. The vehicle is using some coolant, but no apparent leaks. When I warmed up the engine after replacing the radiator, liquid dripped out of the back of the muffler - rusted out.
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I recently had an upper radiator hose bust and ever since I have been having a slight water leak. It appeared to be coming from between the layers of rubber on the new hose which I replaced twice since the incident. Both hoses had water seeping from the same location. This afternoon I plan on doing a pressure test on the cooling system to diagnose where the water may be coming from.
My question is could a loss of pressure cause larger than normal Oil and Water deltas? If I have to replace the radiator is there a particular manufacturer or type I should avoid? Should I try to get a factory replacement from Ford or would an Autoparts unit be sufficient? The original is still in the truck now with 286,000 miles on it.
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